Found a local guy parting out a renegade and was able to get him to sell me the light bar for $70. I just have to pull it my self, the question is what do i need to bring to pull it and how do i remove it? Never messed with one before so i want to take it off with as little damage to it as possible.

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2005 CRD 2.8L
GDE Eco Tuned
Weeks Stage 1+2
Suncoast Torque Converter
2.5" custom OME/JBA lift
Kennedy Lift Pump
Racor 245R122 fuel filter system
Model 001 Thermostat 41603
Iron Rock Tri-link

The plastic top cover is attached with torx head bolts not sure the size. The lower part that attaches to the body are 10mm headed bolts.

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2005 KJ RENAGADE 2.8 CRD 6 SPEED NP242 FULLTIME 4X4

Don't forget to get the wiring and the switch and dash bezel..if you can....

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06 Renegade, 265-70-16 Duratracs on Moab's/OMF, RL sliders ,roof rack, On board air, JBA-UCA, adjust-a strut, Rear-OME 948 two uppers ,Sensatrac shocks, Boiler rad. skid, Mopar/4x guard skid,Terra-flex 4:1,HD cooling,more lights, gauges. ARB/Warn, Mudds Rear Bumper.

i know they look sweet, but how well do they work? I was thinking about grabbing one if I ever found a deal

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2006 CRD - GTB2056 turbo by Dieselguy86, Eco Trans Tune, Lift Pump, Week's, HDS Tstat, Racor Filter, ARP's, OME 790's+Top Plate, JBA 2.5", JBA UCA, Moab's+265/75R16, ARB Bull Bar, 4.10's, TrueTracs

These days you can get some LED light pods that could mount down low on the bumper that will put out more light and have less glare off of the hood. LED bulbs in the light bar would make it better.

I think you have to want to get it since it takes a fair bit of mods to your roof to mount.

The switch panel is nice for a factory look light switch though.

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http://www.Colorado4Wheel.com
"Its not about what you can DO with your Jeep, its about where you can GO with your Jeep."
Knowledgeable - But Caustic

Rigid Dually's with JK fog light mounting kits work well in the renny lightbar.Use there 10 degree or 8 degree hyper spots and almost zero glare.

You can get a mopar light bar and use led bulbs instead of the conventional ones.

Tj's suggestion is good if you want to pay premium. If you don't care about super performance, get a 50-ish inch led light bar from amazon for about 100 bucks and you'll have so much light that you'll burn the retina of the person coming from opposite side.

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2005 kj CRD, samco, suncoast tc, provent, Kennedy lift pump, GDE ECO full torque, 2nd gen filter head, 245/70/16 a/t tires, mopar light bar, fumoto oil valve, OEM Skid Plates, ARB Front bumper and HD OME, tru cool LPD47391 40k GVW tranny cooler (stock cooler delete), FF Dynamics e-fan and shroud, rocker arms replaced, HDS2 190F thermostat.

Those LED bulbs won't fit under the cover and those cheap LED lightbars(the ones for $100 or less) are a waste of time and money.

One of the salesman at work has 2 of them mounted on his truck,one 50" and one 30",and my 4 Rigid Dually's are brighter than both of his LED bars combined.

You can get the Dually's from Amazon for a good price that will not break the bank by any means.

I got a cheap 26" light bar and I actually found it to be obnoxious to use on the road. Way to much glare on road signs

I think a decent set of bi-xenon HIDs are good for normal driving. I had them in my Jeep until my wife hit a deer and totally destroyed one headlight housing and knocked the plastic shroud off the other projector. I haven't gotten around to opening up the one and rebuilding a second. I'll use my light bar for off-highway

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2006 CRD - GTB2056 turbo by Dieselguy86, Eco Trans Tune, Lift Pump, Week's, HDS Tstat, Racor Filter, ARP's, OME 790's+Top Plate, JBA 2.5", JBA UCA, Moab's+265/75R16, ARB Bull Bar, 4.10's, TrueTracs

I didn't check if led bulbs would fit in the mopar light bar, they may be indeed too long, but I'm sure there are ways around it. But it isn't worth in my opinion fiddling with it when you can get a light bar that would definitely put out more light, at least in my opinion.

The main issue is that light bars, cheap or not, have a combo of flood (sides) with spot (center), so you cannot use them separate. I'm not sure if there are led bars out there that allow turning on just flood or spot or both.

Regarding cheap led bars or projectors, it depends what you buy. There are plenty 4+ star products on amazon that seem reliable. I have a light bar on the truck and knock on wood so far worked flawlessly, but I have maybe 30-ish hours of running it and this because I prefer to drive during the night. So from a personal experience point of view it's great but I can't say it was really tested in reliability. This is the light bar:

Eyourlife 52 inch 300W Light Bar Extra LED Light Bar Off Road Flood Spot Combo Beam https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F4MQJ5O/re ... BybN4D88MW

The difference between a brand name and no name is that the name brands that are usually 5x the price of noname are brighter and have less glare, the light distribution is more precise and refined. The name brands should also be more reliable. The question I have is this: are name brands 5x better, 5x brighter? I one doubt it.

I had a set of hella 4000 conventional flood lights with 100w bulbs on the Cherokee, and those were hands down the best lights I have ever had, till I got the light bar. On the crd, I have the mopar light bar which I never use and thinking to swap it for a led bar. I also have 2 6inch led round flood lights (that are a joke compared with hella 4000 btw) but they put out decent light.

I agree with masshole, driving with auxiliary lights on, especially flood, will result in a huge glare from the road signs. The problem with customizing the oem lights is that most lightning options are not dot approved. I am very annoyed by people having super bright lights, which are definitely not dot approved, and I don't want to be one of those.

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2005 kj CRD, samco, suncoast tc, provent, Kennedy lift pump, GDE ECO full torque, 2nd gen filter head, 245/70/16 a/t tires, mopar light bar, fumoto oil valve, OEM Skid Plates, ARB Front bumper and HD OME, tru cool LPD47391 40k GVW tranny cooler (stock cooler delete), FF Dynamics e-fan and shroud, rocker arms replaced, HDS2 190F thermostat.

The difference between the no-name knock-offs and the good LED's(Rigid and VisionX) is huge.The light output is at least 2-3 times better as companies like Rigid use the top-tier LED's while the others use the reject LED chips(hence the price difference).The build quality is night and day,Rigid/VisionX are IP68 rated while the others maybe IP67 but most are rated less and Rigid uses lexan lenses while the others use plastic.The price difference is justified when you actually compare them side by side.

2 other major differences are Rigid/VisionX use thermal heat management,while the other do not, and drastically increasing LED performance and life.Since companies like Rigid/VisionX use high quality LED chips,superior optics,and heat management there LED bars draw less amps than the others also.If you look at the knock-off bars they may come with 16/14g wiring which is not enough for the big LED bars(30"+) which then becomes a fire risk since the wiring kit you have to buy for them will doubtedly be rated correctly and will handle the load but not the bars wiring.

A week ago while we were dead at work so decided to prove the difference between his LED's and mine.His 2 light bars combined was pulling 62 amps and kept blowing relays after 20mins.I've replaced my 2 VisionX LED bars with Rigids new 20" hyper spot/flood combo's(double row on top of bumper and single row under bumper) and with those 2 bars on,my 4 Dually's on top and 2 in back and my headlights on with fogs(65w high beam modded) and my pair of 25w VisionX Cannons all on was drawing a scant 40 amps with over twice the wattage of light.That's when everyone at work said my 4 Dually's on top were brighter than both his 50" and 30" bars,they couldn't even look at my KJ with my main 20" Rigid bar with Hyper spot pattern.

Oh and forgot about the warranty's,Rigid/VisionX has a lifetime warranty while the other may have 1 or 2 years that is iff the company is around long enough to honor it.

All valid points TJ, but the difference is that some folks don't need ip68 water resistance. I one do not. The cheapo led bar I have on the truck is ip67, which is roughly 16psi water pressure for up to 30 min. It's also mounted on the top behind the cabin so if I somehow get it submerged I have way bigger problems than have the light bar taking water. It can pour as hard as possible and if there is no manufacturing defect, it will be fine. I also make my wiring harness out of principle, even the hella harness came with gauge 14 wires for 200w, I make mine with gauge 10 and as short as possible. I yet have to burn a relay. But you made me curious as to how much draw it has, so I'll measure it as soon as I can. There is also a difference between lumen output and wattage, there can be more efficient leds that output same lumens like less efficient leds that draw more watts and thus more amps. A 300w advertised power would draw about 300/14=21.4 amps which is really not a lot, at least on paper. It's interesting to observe how many amps will be drawn after 30 min of operation, when the light bar would be hotter.

Warranty wise and quality wise, I have no doubt the brand names are better. But are they 5 times better? For a non-professional user like me, I doubt.

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2005 kj CRD, samco, suncoast tc, provent, Kennedy lift pump, GDE ECO full torque, 2nd gen filter head, 245/70/16 a/t tires, mopar light bar, fumoto oil valve, OEM Skid Plates, ARB Front bumper and HD OME, tru cool LPD47391 40k GVW tranny cooler (stock cooler delete), FF Dynamics e-fan and shroud, rocker arms replaced, HDS2 190F thermostat.

Well i didnt get the light bar. the guy i was going to get it from ended up selling the whole Jeep before i could get to it. I just spent my money buying full Mopar Skids and items i needed to upgrade my OME 1.5" lift into a 2.5" lift.

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2005 CRD 2.8L
GDE Eco Tuned
Weeks Stage 1+2
Suncoast Torque Converter
2.5" custom OME/JBA lift
Kennedy Lift Pump
Racor 245R122 fuel filter system
Model 001 Thermostat 41603
Iron Rock Tri-link