Considering doing rocker/lifter replacement and arp head studs at the same time I replace the timing belt on my liberty. Ive already got the stage 1/2 weeks kit ordered as well. Considering ordering everything from sasquatch, but the head gasket does not come with the stud nor lifter kit, which begs the question if I do need/should do it at the same time?

Anything else I should add to this bill??

For giggles, I just acquired my liberty with 237,000 miles and have just definitively determined that the timing belt has never been done

That would be a record if you can, in fact, prove that the timing belt has never been done. I find it hard to believe one could possibly last that long, but anything is possible!

Has the EGR been disabled in some way prior to your ordering the Weeks kits? If it has had the EGR enabled for any more than about 100K miles, then most people are opting to pull the head and replace, at the minimum, the exhaust valves. My latest CRD had 88K when I bought it and I'm replacing the entire head (for time savings, really) with new valves just for peace of mind. I'm in the "drive it till it breaks in half" mindset, so I like to do preventive maintenance vs retroactive repairs.

With the mileage you have and if the valves (and timing belt, for that matter) have not been done, I would say its about time to do the whole shebang. Replace the head gasket while you're in there and use the TTY bolts for target practice and you should be good to go for another 100K+.

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2006 Limited CRD: Frankenlift II, Fumoto Drain Plug, DIY Stage 1 Tune, In-Tank Lift Pump

You are a fortunate man... what other upgrades are you considering?

So as far as I know, the EGR has never been disabled (until now as I unplugged the MAF). I have already been getting EGR type CELs, I talked to previous owner (single owner) today and they had the egr replaced at 140,000 or so, to me that means its been used the entire time. They also eventually replaced the MAP sensor furthering those thoughts. The upside if there is any is that they put about 100 miles a day on it for highway commute, so it likely was getting up to operating temp regularly, albeit it seem the oem degree thermostat is present as in a 4 hour drive it did manage to get above the 1/4 mark, but never to 1/2. For what its worth I made like 32mpg on the way home, and of course its not tuned ( GDE has no record of it).

So Ill add just exhaust valves for now, there are 8 of them yes? Would I need new springs/seats as well?

Thanks for all the info!

Im looking into ordering parts now, and it appears there are 3 different head gaskets for this engine, however if I read it right, I cant know which gasket I need until the head is removal and you can visually inspect the existing head gasket. Is that correct?

https://www.idparts.com/head-gasket-and ... -3180.html

To be precise you won't know what gasket to use until you get the head off and take the appropriate measurements. While it's likely that those measurements will indicate that you should use the gasket with the same number of holes as the one you took off that's not a certainty. In fact there has been some chat about just using the thicker 2 hole gasket as a "universal" replacement as the minor loss in combustion chamber size is not enough to matter. I personally have no opinion but will offer that the purpose of the measurement is to make sure there is sufficient clearance from the head so I suspect too thin a gasket is a potential problem but a slightly too thick one is not.

Anyone feel free to correct me if I am wrong.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

You can see the tab with the holes in it without removing the valve cover. I don't remember exactly where it is located at the moment. It will either have no holes, 1 hole, or 2 holes.

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2006 Liberty CRD Limited

Provent @ 43,000 km
SEGR in progress
SAMCO Sport hoses @ 48500 km
Goodyear Wrangler Duratrac LT225/75R16

If you can get an OBDII reader plugged in it, or use the Torque Pro app, you should be able to get an actual engine temperature reading. Do not trust the O.E. temperature gauge... it is neither accurate or linear in it's measurements of engine temperature. It most certainly is running too cool, but it would be nice to get an actual engine operating temperature reading.

From the FSM:
The cylinder head uses a selectable Multi-layered Steel gasket that is available in three sizes.

If the liners are not removed, use the same thickness head gasket that was removed.

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Supporting Vendor and Moderator of LOST
05 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited
Ironman Springs/Bilstein/Shocks
Yeti StgIV Hot Tune
Week's BatteryTray
No FCV/EGR
Samcos/ProVent
SunCoast/Transgo
Carter Intank-pmp
2mic.Sec.Fuel Filter
Flowmaster/NO CAT
V6Airbox/noVH
GM11 Bld.fan/HDClutch
IronrockArms/wwdieselMount
98 Dodge Cummins 24 Valve

Papaindigo has it right.

Using a head gasket too thin will allow coolant and oil leaks, and risks damaging the head due to the head being crushed into the liner lip before achieving proper pressure on the gasket.

Using a upsized head gasket helps seal things well (pressurized fluids and combustion), and be more tolerant of ARP head stud clamping pressure. (IE: will bear full force on the gasket and cause no bad things.)

In an ideal world, everyone would have all the special tools to determine the liner projection. Lacking the tools, the safe bet is the 2 hole gasket.

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'06 Lbrty Sprt CRD 150K

Sasquatch
DSS Turbo
CAT-elimntr
Weeks Stg1&2 EGRfix
PV-200
BLING
vent gauges

IDParts
head
cams
rockers
Timing set
ARP studs
eTn1 GX2123 5v GPs

YETI Custom Tune
Flowmaster 8325508
Carter P76611M
GM 12611872
Hayden 2986
GM 15976889
PATC Custom Billet
2010 Ram Hemi Trans
Sonnax 44957
Transgo kit
Cooper 51770

I have stopped worrying about the gasket thickness and just select the two-hole for everyone. Measuring compression on my own engines have shown no noticeable difference (maybe because the studs make up the difference) and the results have been good with each engine. Mine gets 26mpg at 85mph all day long which is great.

When matching the existing gasket, there have been three that have had further gasket issues even after the studs. I won't do that anymore.


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Proud supporting vendor of LOST Jeeps
TRAVELING CRD TECH. I come to you!
Need help? Just ask! I've taken it apart more than most.
Email jeep [at] maincomputer [dot] com - BOARD MESSAGING IS BROKEN
Over 125 CRDs currently driving with my timing belt, rockers, or ARP Studs.
Bad noises = REALLY bad things.