Engine dies when idling down at a stop.

JHolm · **Joined:** Mon Nov 10, 2014 11:05 am **Posts:** 45

I've been having a problem with my crd. As I'm coming to a stop and the engine is idling down it stalls. First thing I did was change the fuel filter and bleed the lines. That didn't work, so I thought I would install a cummins lift pump and change all the rubber lines to eliminate any possibility of air in the lines. The install went good, I bled the lines with the lift pump a few times and then with the bleeder and it started immediately. I ran a few errands and it stalled again and at a stop. I tried bleeding again thinking it was residual air in the system from the line change. I almost killed the battery trying to start it and finally it fired. I made it to the next intersection. I'm waiting for a tow truck to get it home. It's-30 Celsius here, not sure it has anything to do with it. It seemed to gather worse as the weather got colder. Any assistance would be appreciated. I'm loosing patience with my jeep.

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JHolm · **Joined:** Mon Nov 10, 2014 11:05 am **Posts:** 45

I forgot to mention that I do have the updated filter housing and it has 270 000 km

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Dgideon · **Posted:** Thu Dec 15, 2016 6:40 am

If the Crankshaft Position Sensor (CPS) is original, I would suggest changing the sensor.

http://www.idparts.com/crankshaft-posit ... -4484.html

or

http://www.autozone.com/engine-manageme ... ion-sensor

jws84_02 · **Posted:** Thu Dec 15, 2016 9:15 am

When you bled it after it stalled again and you got residual air, did you then get running fuel? If it's getting worse as the temp gets cold it might be a felling issue. Do you use any fuel treatment?

JHolm · **Joined:** Mon Nov 10, 2014 11:05 am **Posts:** 45

jws84_02 wrote:

When you bled it after it stalled again and you got residual air, did you then get running fuel? If it's getting worse as the temp gets cold it might be a felling issue. Do you use any fuel treatment?

I should have put some treatment in. and filled the tank. That's the next thing I am going to try. It's probably the fist thing I should have tried.

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JHolm · **Joined:** Mon Nov 10, 2014 11:05 am **Posts:** 45

So I dumped the fuel and put a 20 litres from another gas station with stabalizer. It ran for 2 hours in the driveway no problem. I left it overnight in -30 plugged in its started fine and ran for a while the stalled. It started no problem and is still running. This picture is of my fault codes. I removed the egr and intake valve.

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Mountainman · **Posted:** Sun Dec 18, 2016 12:32 am

Did you eliminate the supply quick connect at the fuel tank (likely sucks more air when really cold)?
Does it do it more if the engine is warm versus just started (crank sensor)?

JHolm · **Joined:** Mon Nov 10, 2014 11:05 am **Posts:** 45

Mountainman wrote:

Did you eliminate the supply quick connect at the fuel tank (likely sucks more air when really cold)?
Does it do it more if the engine is warm versus just started (crank sensor)?

Yes I installed all new rubber line eliminating the quick connect lines. It does seam to die after the engine is warm, sometimes it will start immediately and sometimes it does after it sits for a while. Is it more likely to be a bad crank sensor than cam. Are the generic sensor ok or is that something I need to buy from dodge?

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WWDiesel · **Posted:** Mon Dec 19, 2016 10:40 am

JHolm wrote:

Yes I installed all new rubber line eliminating the quick connect lines. It does seam to die after the engine is warm, sometimes it will start immediately and sometimes it does after it sits for a while. Is it more likely to be a bad crank sensor than cam. Are the generic sensor ok or is that something I need to buy from dodge?

Replace the CPS, you have classic CPS bad symptoms!
Autozone has one of the best prices and the part in the Duralast Box will be an OEM type Bosch part!

http://www.autozone.com/engine-manageme ... 6_726118_0

JHolm · **Joined:** Mon Nov 10, 2014 11:05 am **Posts:** 45

So I finally changed the crank sensor. Was able to do it before my boy woke from a nap. I wanted to do the heat gun test to confirm a bad sensor. I put my tester on it and had a open cct. I proceeded to skin the cable to get a better connection and look what I found! The insulation on the cable is completely cooked and falling off. I haven't test driven it, working at installing a espar heater. Thanks for everyone's suggestions.

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olypopper · **Posted:** Sun Jan 08, 2017 11:12 pm

Great job Jholm and thanks for posting your findings!

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sun Jan 08, 2017 11:14 pm

JHolm wrote:

So I finally changed the crank sensor. Was able to do it before my boy woke from a nap. I wanted to do the heat gun test to confirm a bad sensor. I put my tester on it and had a open cct. I proceeded to skin the cable to get a better connection and look what I found! The insulation on the cable is completely cooked and falling off. I haven't test driven it, working at installing a espar heater. Thanks for everyone's suggestions.

Was your heat shield in place that covers the Crank Position Sensor and its associated wiring??? :shock:

JHolm · **Joined:** Mon Nov 10, 2014 11:05 am **Posts:** 45

WWDiesel wrote:

JHolm wrote:

So I finally changed the crank sensor. Was able to do it before my boy woke from a nap. I wanted to do the heat gun test to confirm a bad sensor. I put my tester on it and had a open cct. I proceeded to skin the cable to get a better connection and look what I found! The insulation on the cable is completely cooked and falling off. I haven't test driven it, working at installing a espar heater. Thanks for everyone's suggestions.

Was your heat shield in place that covers the Crank Position Sensor and its associated wiring??? :shock:

Ya it was, that was hardest part of changing the sensor. I was very surprised at how brittle the wire insulation was. The outer jacket was in good condition.

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thermorex · **Posted:** Mon Jan 09, 2017 3:16 pm

You should use some heat shield wrap on that wire. Mine was fine when I changed the crank sensor but many users experienced brittle wiring on the sensor.

Engine dies when idling down at a stop.

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