Moving on

redsloth · **Posted:** Fri Jan 13, 2017 6:56 pm

I didn't want this to be my first post but my 2005 CRD was t-boned after an amazing day of snowboarding on Christmas day that resulted in her being totaled. While being a bit of a headache at times, she was the best Jeep I've owned and I had planned on keeping her until she fell apart. I did spend a lot of time lurking here for the past 7 years and I want to thank all of you for unknowingly helping me keep her on the road for the past 5 years.

I am still awaiting delivery (delayed due to the snow storm in Portland) but I bought her back from insurance in case any of you wanted parts but plan on purchasing a different vehicle and scrapping what remains, unless someone local-ish wants to purchase the complete shell. Pictures should be below and can add additional ones if requested once she arrives.

As far as what she has, the GDE hot tune is currently on the ECM and I have the programming tool with the ECO-FT tune (can pull injectors and/or revert tune to stock). The Weeks stage 1 kit is currently installed and can be removed and I have the stage 2 but hadn't gotten around to installing it. I also have the ID Parts intercooler hose kit (blue), one side was installed but I hadn't gotten to the other side so it is new in the box. I bought a Solid Axle differential cover with a lube locker gasket but have not installed either of those.

http://www.solidaxle.com/productcart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=156&idcategory=7

APC9199 · **Posted:** Fri Jan 13, 2017 7:14 pm

What is the extent of the damage, and what are your local regulations regarding salvage title vehicles?

Totaled to the insurance company and totaled to YOU might mean different things. If there is no significant frame damage or structural damage, you might be able to piece it back together and STILL drive it until it falls apart. I bought mine back, and even though the rebuild is taking me forever, it will be back on the road for a fraction of the total damage estimate provided by the insurance company. That may not be your cup of tea, and we understand if it isn't, but the option MAY be there.

If you do not want to go that route than THANK YOU for buying it back and making it available to us. Parts for these vehicles are hard to find and expensive to boot. I even have a few things I might want, if you decide to go that route. Good luck, whichever route you take.

redsloth · **Posted:** Fri Jan 13, 2017 7:32 pm

I would need to research the regulations on the salvage title but hadn't as she was to be for parts and the rest scrapped. As far as fixing and keeping, I did everything to keep her on the road in tip top shape and once that was taken I don't feel like trying to have her fixed knowing how perfect she had been. Hope that makes sense.

More images are below that may show more of the damage.

redsloth · **Posted:** Fri Jan 13, 2017 7:35 pm

Also, if anyone wondered how one gets t-boned on a highway, this is how. Police report stated they were accelerating the whole time. They left their car on the highway and fled on foot.

geordi · **Posted:** Fri Jan 13, 2017 7:58 pm

That damage is not bad at all. These things are tanks. It would depend on whether the doors open or not on the passenger side, but a frame shop should be able to pull out the B pillar easily if it was tweaked - but it doesn't look like it was much, if at all.

Two doors will set you back about $200 at a U-pull-it type yard, and any door from any Liberty from 2002-2007 will match right up. Possibly even to 2009 but those would be rare in a you-pick yard. If you went to an LKQ yard where they strip the cars themselves and rack all the parts, you might have to spend a bit more but could find a color match and save on the paintwork.

The rocker is double-layered, looks like only the outer layer of sheetmetal got pinched. This is covered by the plastic rocker covers anyway, so buyer's choice to fix or not. The front fender unbolts fairly easily and can be swapped the same.

Honestly - if they didn't take the title from you, then it isn't a branded title, and you can rebuild it and sell it honestly or drive it until the wheels fall off. Insurance companies make their money on higher premiums for newer cars, and it benefits them to total out EVERYTHING. Their body shop rates ensure this.

I just had estimates for a rear quarter hit (way harder to fix than your damage) and they wanted to charge $500 for a plastic bumper cover, $150 for a taillight, $1300 for the rear door, and $700 for the rear glass! That doesn't even touch the quarter panel repair, and they had already reached 75% of the predicted KBB value before they even got to the main damage. It is all a scam to push everyone into new cars all the time because they get paid back in those higher rates for new cars. They make back that payout triple-over easily.

Someone else here had a very minor rear-end accident that they also totaled his CRD for... His hitch and bumper cover were the only real damage, the door still looked great and worked!

Keep your CRD. If the frame is straight, then there is nothing wrong with fixing it, it isn't like it will suddenly fall to pieces on you. It is just a collection of individual parts bolted together. Take off the bunged ones and replace with fresh, and drive on. A few hours of work on Car-part.com or your local you-pick, and you will save thousands that can be spent on quality body and paint (if needed) and you'd never know it was there.

Mountainman · **Posted:** Fri Jan 13, 2017 11:34 pm

Pm sent

Moving on

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