Pulled the Head.....Now What?

flash7210 · **Posted:** Tue Jan 24, 2017 4:41 pm

fool4wheelin wrote:

Pressure test results came back, leaky head. Somewhere between one of the intake feeds and the valve seat. Not looking forward to buying a new/reman head but might be a blessing in disguise.

I got a used replacement head from VMspecialists in England. Under $600 shipped.
They can be a little difficult to deal with and slow. But for me it has been totally worth it.

geordi · **Posted:** Tue Jan 24, 2017 5:02 pm

There is a six digit code on each injector, that will correspond to one of the barcode graphics on the front timing cover. The timing cover will have a 24 digit barcode. Just match up the letters and numbers, and it goes 1234 from left to right.

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fool4wheelin · **Posted:** Tue Jan 24, 2017 9:56 pm

geordi wrote:

There is a six digit code on each injector, that will correspond to one of the barcode graphics on the front timing cover. The timing cover will have a 24 digit barcode. Just match up the letters and numbers, and it goes 1234 from left to right.

Thanks, this will help. What difference does it make, are they coded to the ECU or something?

Here are a some better pics of that bad cam lobe.

Here is my head I got back from the machine shop.

geordi · **Posted:** Tue Jan 24, 2017 10:05 pm

The code has to do with fine tuning and balancing somehow, but the CRD seems to run fine either way, matched or not. I'm not sure how much difference it actually makes.

That cam looks terrible. What did they write on the head?

I'm fighting with a head right now, you may want to take the opportunity and replace the studs - Two sheared off and it is now being worked on by a machine shop so that they can all be replaced by grade 10 bolts or studs. Something actually rated, not this unrated crap.

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Tue Jan 24, 2017 10:27 pm

Diesel fuel injection is very specific. The injector code is a fuel trim that the ecu uses to adjust the proper flow. While they will run without the codes programmed correctly, but depending on how far off there may be problems. While I haven't seen it for our vehicles I have seen incorrect fueling codes trash other diesel engines.

I do not recommend running the engine much without the correct coding for very long.

geordi · **Posted:** Tue Jan 24, 2017 10:56 pm

Keith has said on several occasions that the coding is not terribly important in this application. Considering that he is way smarter about the electronic side than I am, I'm happy to defer to him.

fool4wheelin · **Posted:** Tue Jan 24, 2017 11:20 pm

geordi wrote:

That cam looks terrible. What did they write on the head?

LEAKS (If you rotate your screen 180° you should be able to make it out!)

geordi wrote:

I'm fighting with a head right now, you may want to take the opportunity and replace the studs - Two sheared off and it is now being worked on by a machine shop so that they can all be replaced by grade 10 bolts or studs. Something actually rated, not this unrated crap.

I'm assuming you mean the exhaust studs?

geordi · **Posted:** Tue Jan 24, 2017 11:31 pm

Sorry, yes - exhaust studs. Crap unrated hardware, far from the quality level of ARP.

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Tue Jan 24, 2017 11:50 pm

geordi wrote:

Keith has said on several occasions that the coding is not terribly important in this application. Considering that he is way smarter about the electronic side than I am, I'm happy to defer to him.

My recommendation stands. Keep the injector coding correct - either by not swapped locations or reprogramming the ECU for correct coding. I'm going to say doing otherwise is incorrect procedure.

fool4wheelin · **Posted:** Sat Feb 11, 2017 10:31 am

Finally got my replacement head from VM Specialists, now working on putting everything back together. Took about a week to get here, head looks to be in pretty good shape. I'm thinking of taking in to get pressure tested to be on the safe side.

What size is the hex to remove the plug to get the cam shafts out of the valve cover? 22mm?

Also, the machine shop did a chemical clean on the valve cover, but the outer surface doesn't have the best finish. What's the best way to clean it so it looks a little nicer?

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sat Feb 11, 2017 10:44 am

fool4wheelin wrote:

Finally got my replacement head from VM Specialists, now working on putting everything back together. Took about a week to get here, head looks to be in pretty good shape. I'm thinking of taking in to get pressure tested to be on the safe side.

What size is the hex to remove the plug to get the cam shafts out of the valve cover? 22mm?

Also, the machine shop did a chemical clean on the valve cover, but the outer surface doesn't have the best finish. What's the best way to clean it so it looks a little nicer?

Try some aluminum mag wheel cleaner... :wink:

fool4wheelin · **Posted:** Sun Feb 12, 2017 9:37 am

geordi wrote:

Then install the head and you are ready to begin torquing the studs. Follow the factory pattern (image in the head stud research thread) and with the narrow threads of the studs, both sides of the washer and the face of the nut coated in ARP lube, assemble the nut and washer flush to the top of the studs. Thread them down hand-tight, then torque all to 80 lbs. Without removing, torque again to 100 lbs. For the third pass, loosen each one in turn and reset the nut back to flush with the top of the stud, and then torque to either 130 (inner rows, 1-10) or 120 (outer rows, 11-18) and that completes the head stud installation.

So fully loosen every nut before the 3rd pass? I've seen other posts where they don't loosen before the 3rd pass. Here is what ARP instructions show:

Quote:

Following the manufacturers recommended torque sequence tighten the nuts in three equal steps to 125 ft lbs with ARP ULTRA-TORQUE FASTENER ASSEMBLY LUBRICANT.

geordi · **Posted:** Sun Feb 12, 2017 11:25 pm

The directions from ARP are based on other applications. They have approved our procedure for our application.

Yes, after the second complete pass and everything is up to 100 lbs, one at a time do the final procedure: loosen the nut completely, reset it to flush with the top of the stud, turn the STUD down so the nut is hand tight, and then lastly torque the nut to final - either 130 lb-ft for the center rows (positions 1-10) or 120 for positions 11-18.

fool4wheelin · **Posted:** Mon Feb 20, 2017 8:27 am

I was able to get ahold of a good used exhaust cam, but the snap ring groove is different than my original, appears that's its meant to be used without the backup washer behind the snap ring. Is this OK?? Doesn't seem like a good idea with that large oil drain groove on the face of the retaining surface.

Mountainman · **Posted:** Mon Feb 20, 2017 11:18 am

Yeah, that's tricked a few of us. No washer indeed, but make sure the endplay isn't excessive

fool4wheelin · **Posted:** Sun Feb 26, 2017 11:12 pm

Was having a good day putting things back together till I stripped out the helicoil for the timing belt tensioner in the timing belt housing. Not sure how I did it, had the torque wrench set to 22 ft-lbs, must have buggered the threads or something getting the timing belt on. What options do I have? I saw one post where someone installed a stud into what was left of the helicoil. I was able to unscrew the rest of the helicoil from the housing, can I drill it out larger and use a bigger one? I also see there are a couple of used housings on ebay, could go that route too...

fool4wheelin · **Posted:** Mon Feb 27, 2017 12:12 am

Think I found my solution: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002KWHWL6/ref=biss_dp_t_asn

flash7210 · **Posted:** Mon Feb 27, 2017 7:11 am

Happened to me too.
Fixed it with a standard heli coil and cut the head off a bolt to make a stud.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Mon Feb 27, 2017 9:12 pm

[quote="flash7210"]Happened to me too.
Fixed it with a standard heli coil and cut the head off a bolt to make a stud.

X2, thats a very good fix.... :!:

Heli coils tend to be more permanent than threaded inserts in my experience... :wink:

fool4wheelin · **Posted:** Wed Mar 01, 2017 7:58 pm

WWDiesel wrote:

X2, thats a very good fix.... :!:

Heli coils tend to be more permanent than threaded inserts in my experience... :wink:

Too late, already drilled it out. I'm pretty impressed with the insert so far, screwed in easy and after it set up seems to be bonded pretty well.

Pulled the Head.....Now What?

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