Pulled the Head.....Now What?

geordi · **Posted:** Wed Mar 01, 2017 10:22 pm

Nicely done, that should be way stronger than the original - that helicoil is what the factory came up with, I suspect b/c they had a casting error or a drilling error on the original manufacturing. Aluminum threads alone should be more than strong enough for 22 ft-lbs of torque.

Is that insert metric thread? Are you still using the same factory bolt?

thermorex · **Posted:** Thu Mar 02, 2017 12:05 am

fool4wheelin wrote:

WWDiesel wrote:

X2, thats a very good fix.... :!:

Heli coils tend to be more permanent than threaded inserts in my experience... :wink:

Too late, already drilled it out. I'm pretty impressed with the insert so far, screwed in easy and after it set up seems to be bonded pretty well.

Don't be sorry you went that route, what you did there, looks a very fine job. The inserts are way better than helicoil, they are more precise and if properly installed, way easier to use, screw/unscrew stuff from it. Also easier to install than helicoil, since you can't always use a wire cutter to remove the helicoil center piece.

fool4wheelin · **Posted:** Thu Mar 02, 2017 12:14 am

geordi wrote:

Is that insert metric thread? Are you still using the same factory bolt?

I'm still using same factory bolt, M8x1.25. Outer thread is 1/2-13 UNC. I had to buy a pack of 10, so I have 9 left if anyone wants some.

I used a pretty fancy variable speed drill press at work so I was able to clamp the case down to the bed and get everything nice and square. After drilling the hole I just put the tap in the chuck and turned the speed down and used the drill press to feed the tap, so the threads are nice and straight too.

Mountainman · **Posted:** Thu Mar 02, 2017 12:22 am

fool4wheelin wrote:

geordi wrote:

Is that insert metric thread? Are you still using the same factory bolt?

I'm still using same factory bolt, M8x1.25. Outer thread is 1/2-13 UNC. I had to buy a pack of 10, so I have 9 left if anyone wants some.

I used a pretty fancy variable speed drill press at work so I was able to clamp the case down to the bed and get everything nice and square. After drilling the hole I just put the tap in the chuck and turned the speed down and used the drill press to feed the tap, so the threads are nice and straight too.

I was about to buy a whole pack myself. If no one else wants any I'll buy them all.

geordi · **Posted:** Thu Mar 02, 2017 12:36 pm

Go for it Nick, I don't have a need for them right now, but I know you probably do.
My drill press is in storage anyway.

Mountainman · **Posted:** Fri Mar 03, 2017 1:39 pm

geordi wrote:

Go for it Nick, I don't have a need for them right now, but I know you probably do.
My drill press is in storage anyway.

Thanks man, better than them going to waste

fool4wheelin · **Posted:** Sun Mar 05, 2017 1:10 am

Finally got everything back together, runs like a champ. Still has the typical diesel clatter, but the valvetrain is noticeably quieter. Turbo also seems to spool up quicker. Along with replacing the head, exhaust cam and rockers, I also upgraded to ARP studs, 5V Bosch GP's, and Weeks Stage 1 & 2. Throw in new timing belt and serpentine tensioner and I should be good for a while. Also changed oil so hopefully my next sample comes back clean. Couple follow up questions:

- Is there any value in my old "leaky" head? I'm thinking of taking it in to the aluminum recyclers, but I'm assuming I need to pull the valves out first, is this fairly easy to do?
- I have a set of new OEM TTY head bolts if anyone wants any.
- I have (2) extra ARP studs, as I'm assuming most everyone else who swaps for them does as well. Anyone collecting these to make a full set? For the price of the set you think it would be worth it.

Last but not least, thanks for all the input and advice from everyone!

joe_ · **Posted:** Mon Mar 06, 2017 12:51 am

fool4wheelin wrote:

- I have (2) extra ARP studs, as I'm assuming most everyone else who swaps for them does as well. Anyone collecting these to make a full set? For the price of the set you think it would be worth it.

http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=85267

geordi · **Posted:** Mon Mar 06, 2017 1:02 am

I have a collection going too, and actually the last time I counted, I think I was only two short of a full set.

fool4wheelin · **Posted:** Tue Mar 07, 2017 5:43 pm

Already found a home for the studs...

fool4wheelin · **Posted:** Sun Apr 16, 2017 7:59 am

I sent in an oil sample for analysis after 1000 miles and it came back clean with no signs of antifreeze.

I am getting a very noticeable "whistle" from the engine bay when driving/accelerating under load, was not there before and I don't think its from the turbo as it was spooling up fine before. I did install the Weeks state 1/2 kit, so not sure if it has to do with that or if I just have a loose hose somewhere. I did check the intercooler when I had it out and it did not appear to have any leaks.

joe_ · **Posted:** Sun Apr 16, 2017 12:29 pm

The common place for a leak in the intercooler is near the inlet. The crack itself isn't normally real noticeable, but it leaves an oily deposit on that area of the intercooler.

Another common place for a leak is at the bottom side of the turbo inlet hose (actually a vacuum leak at that point). The oil from the crankcase ventilation (CCV) tube sits there and degrades the rubber until it turns into mush. I'm pretty sure others have noticed a whistling sound from this; definitely worth a look.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sun Apr 16, 2017 1:31 pm

joe_ wrote:

The common place for a leak in the intercooler is near the inlet. The crack itself isn't normally real noticeable, but it leaves an oily deposit on that area of the intercooler.

Another common place for a leak is at the bottom side of the turbo inlet hose (actually a vacuum leak at that point). The oil from the crankcase ventilation (CCV) tube sits there and degrades the rubber until it turns into mush. I'm pretty sure others have noticed a whistling sound from this; definitely worth a look.

If you add a ProVent filter, you can eliminate most all of the oil entering the turbo inlet, which rots the inlet hose, and from oil collecting in the bottom of the CAC intercooler... :idea:

IDParts.com has them!

A lot of members on this forum have added a ProVent filter or one of similar design and function to keep oil out of air inlet system.... :wink:

fool4wheelin · **Posted:** Sun Apr 30, 2017 8:29 am

I found the leak, didn't have a very tight connection between my intercooler outlet hose and the Weeks intake elbow, the 81/73 T-Bolt clamp that was supplied with the IDParts Boost Hoses was bottomed out of adjustment, must be sized to fit the thicker bung on the stock flow control valve. The Weeks kit included a smaller 75/67 clamp for the other end of their intake elbow, so I'll have to find another 75/67 clamp to get it tight.

Pulled the Head.....Now What?

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