Washer fluid reservoir

Hexus · **Posted:** Fri Jun 20, 2014 12:10 pm

Anyone else have theirs leak right at the bottom of the bottle in the pump?

Mine is leaking so bad now I'm going to have to replace it or not have washer fluid, but yeah.

Anyone replace it? Problems? Tips? I've seen a relocate post, I can understand that since it appears I'll nearly have to take the front apart to get to it.

Anyone?

papaindigo · **Posted:** Fri Jun 20, 2014 12:45 pm

I have a nasty memory that a replacement pump is difficult/impossible to find (viewtopic.php?f=5&t=59649 although you might be able to cross to the Mercedes PN#) and that the newer washer bottle/pump assembly is expensive although you might be able to find the latter at a junk yard especially if the gasser and CRD ones are the same (should be but check parts fiche) although Dorman might now have a replacement pump.

I think the relocate thread with a substitute bottle that you are looking for is at viewtopic.php?f=98&t=56577

FYI if its a pinhole leak in the poly fluid bottle itself it is possible to plastic weld that shut. I've got to tool (looks like a soldering iron with a flat shoe with a hole in it thru which you pass a plastic rod that's heated for welding) but most body shops should also and might do it cheap say $10

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Fri Jun 20, 2014 7:27 pm

Good News!
I just replaced the leaking (cracked) windshield washer reservoir tank on my 05 last week that has been leaking since I bought the Jeep and here is what I discovered!
After a lot of on line research, I learned that Autozone lists an OEM replacement reservoir for a 06 Liberty but not an 05.
On line research revealed that both 05 & 06 have the same OEM Chrysler part number (05161320AC), go figure why Autozone did not list one for an 05?
So, I ordered and purchased the one for the 06 (Autozone part no. Part Number: 603-314) for 41.99 and hoped it would be the same.
Mine has both front & rear washers and a level sensor!
Instructions to change:
Jacked the right front up and removed the RF wheel. Removed most of the plastic trees from the front section that hold the inner finder liner. Pulled the fender liner back to reveal the reservoir. Unplugged the level sensor and then popped the pump out of the tank and let it dangle on the hoses, removed two 6 mm bolts that were holding the tank to the Jeep. Up top removed the reservoir cap and lanyard, then removed the air box to grill connector.
Maneuvered the old tank out, compared it to the new tank, (Exactly the same as the old one, maybe even a little bit better looking quality wise), Removed the rubber grommets from the old one and installed them in the new one using a little Vaseline, then maneuvered the new tank in place and bolted it in place and re-installed the pump and connected the wire for the level sensor. Put everything back in place on top and filled the reservoir up and checked for leaks, had none! :BANANA:

Re-installed the RF wheel.
It is quite easy to change, swapped in out in less than 30 minutes total time start to finish! & < 50 bucks :wink:

Hexus · **Posted:** Sat Jun 21, 2014 2:58 pm

The problem with that is that my leak is COMING FROM THE PUMP itself, so I really don't see any way around just replacing the whole thing. Kind of like the old head light maxim, if you replace one replace them both because the other isn't far behind, and since you're already in there....

I'll just replace both, thanks very much for the procedural ideas though, much appreciated!

Gypsy62 · **Posted:** Tue Feb 07, 2017 4:07 pm

Older thread, but this may help new searchers.
Here's a good youtube link to the washer-fluid reservoir(rez) R&R:

https://youtu.be/lbIlp7ZIBKE

Note that you do NOT need to remove the entire rez to service solely the washer pump; just pull the wheel-well clear. I drilled a hole near the edge of the wheel-well plastic to accept a bungee-end, thereby making it far easier to secure the flap well-clear of the work-area.

I dispute that it's necessary to remove the RF wheel for rez R&R. While it does certainly ease access, turned-off in hard-right steering-position there's adequate room for rez R&R.
That is, unless you're using a fast/robust floor-jack, solid-stand and an air impact, in which case the 10 added minutes of safe, light-labor wheel R&R def spares some access grief.

I damaged mine while trimming-off wheel-well plastic (stupid!) using the (indispensable) Beijing vibro-tool. The gash is very accessible, and in an effort to allay self-disgust I've been (unsuccessfully) trying to repair it using my (mildly-useful) beijing "plastic welder". After 3 fails, looks like I'm buying new.

APW and ROCK are both about $32, shipped. For +$5, APW offers a 5-year warranty, which given plastic&location is tempting if you freeze and/or crawl:

http://cart.autopartswarehouse.com/basket?ai=true

http://www.rockauto.com/m/mobilecatalog ... type=10585

GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Tue Feb 07, 2017 4:14 pm

LOL sorry to laugh during your grief, but it sounds like that "(indispensable) Beijing vibro-tool" has caused more than a little frustration, from the battery tray to the boost hose, and now this!
Anyway, thanks for all of your documentation contributed during this project of yours.

Gypsy62 · **Posted:** Wed Feb 08, 2017 6:03 pm

You are most welcome.
Given the fact that so many of you LJ Vets have helped guide me through the morass of CRD education, I'm glad to be of some use in return.

Washer fluid reservoir

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