Trying to figure out what this noise is

Irocelectric93 · **Joined:** Sun Jan 25, 2015 5:59 pm **Posts:** 60

Alright. Got the head off last night. Ordered head gasket kit from idparts along with ARP kit and new rockers. When I took the timing junk off hopefully I did it right. I got both the cam lock pins in place and made marks where I could. Pulled the head and all the pistons are at the same height. Any other suggestions are welcome. This is my first diesel so I'm kind of learning as I go here. Oh I also bought the weeks intake elbow kit not that it's important to what I'm doing exactly just wanted to share.

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WWDiesel · **Posted:** Fri Feb 17, 2017 11:31 am

Irocelectric93 wrote:

Alright. Got the head off last night. Ordered head gasket kit from idparts along with ARP kit and new rockers. When I took the timing junk off hopefully I did it right. I got both the cam lock pins in place and made marks where I could. Pulled the head and all the pistons are at the same height. Any other suggestions are welcome. This is my first diesel so I'm kind of learning as I go here. Oh I also bought the weeks intake elbow kit not that it's important to what I'm doing exactly just wanted to share.

Good for you on your ARP studs and the Weeks elbow kit choices! Your Jeep will thank you..... :BANANA:

Irocelectric93 · **Joined:** Sun Jan 25, 2015 5:59 pm **Posts:** 60

Oh man its been a long story but I ended up buying a new head....yes a new one. I don't really feel like typing out everything that went wrong. I could have used the old head. I had it repaired but I just wanted to start over at that point. So new head, new rockers, and arps. So now I have everything here and I'm ready to put it back together. First off the ARP's...whats the final torque that people who have them are happy with? Ive seen 140 mostly. Copper coat the head gasket I assume. I had asked a question earlier about timing that did not get answered specifically related to the pistons position. I have the FSM torque sequencing for the head which is about as helpful and a broken screwdriver when it comes to torque values. Can someone shine any light here?

Irocelectric93 · **Joined:** Sun Jan 25, 2015 5:59 pm **Posts:** 60

Well I got antsy and out the head on. Used copper coat on the head gasket and torques all the arps to 140 foot pounds staging it up and in the FSM pattern. Used rtv on the coarse threads and the assembly lube on the fine threads, washers and nuts.

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Irocelectric93 · **Joined:** Sun Jan 25, 2015 5:59 pm **Posts:** 60

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Irocelectric93 · **Joined:** Sun Jan 25, 2015 5:59 pm **Posts:** 60

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Irocelectric93 · **Joined:** Sun Jan 25, 2015 5:59 pm **Posts:** 60

Soaked the new rockers overnight in 5w40 shaeffer oil. Part of the reason I replaced the head was just the grooving on the exhaust valves that didn't make me very happy. Planning on putting some more back together today. I took the rest of my egr garbage off the other day for my weeks kit as well. Pictures to follow.

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Irocelectric93 · **Joined:** Sun Jan 25, 2015 5:59 pm **Posts:** 60

Alright well I think I may have skipped a step here. Can anyone answer if the injector bolts and the valve cover/intake cover bolts are tty? I'm seeing that the injector bolts are but is this true? Has anyone re used them? Otherwise I'll need to get new bolts for said items before I put it together any further

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flash7210 · **Posted:** Sun Mar 05, 2017 7:45 pm

Irocelectric93 wrote:

Alright well I think I may have skipped a step here. Can anyone answer if the injector bolts and the valve cover/intake cover bolts are tty? I'm seeing that the injector bolts are but is this true? Has anyone re used them? Otherwise I'll need to get new bolts for said items before I put it together any further

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I reused my valve cover bolts and injector hold down bolts. No issues.

Did you replace the copper washers on the injectors? Those are not reusable.

Irocelectric93 · **Joined:** Sun Jan 25, 2015 5:59 pm **Posts:** 60

Yes sir. I did replace the o rings and crush washer for each injector. I inspected all the bolts before they went into the head and cleaned them hoping to get a true torque value. I already torqued the valve cover/intake bolts per the FSM and actually torqued them up to about 25 foot pounds instead of 18. 18 just seemed a little low IMO. Thanks for the reply!

GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Mon Mar 06, 2017 1:22 am

Over-torquing soft metal (aluminum) components, particularly with Bi-metal assemblies is not a good practice.

Irocelectric93 · **Joined:** Sun Jan 25, 2015 5:59 pm **Posts:** 60

Well i believe it was geordi on here who also stated that he has done that previously. If I have problems with it I know if will most definitely be on me.

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Irocelectric93 · **Joined:** Sun Jan 25, 2015 5:59 pm **Posts:** 60

Ok so I have it back together mostly. I wanted to start it to check timing and it starts and dies. It'll start up and rev to like 2500 Rpms then idle for about 4 or 5 seconds then die. If you give it has you can keep it running but if you let off it dies. I bled air at the fuel head. Checked codes and the only ones that stand out that weren't there before is the fuel metering solenoid. I double checked the pplug on it and it's on all the way. I'm not sure what to do but I don't want to start putting more stuff back together until I can get it to idle. Im pretty sure timing and everything is right. I had both cam pins in and the flexplate pin so im fairly confident that the timing is fine and it's another issue.

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Irocelectric93 · **Joined:** Sun Jan 25, 2015 5:59 pm **Posts:** 60

Well no clue but I got it to run. So back to work I suppose

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geordi · **Posted:** Sun Mar 12, 2017 4:24 pm

Air in the fuel rail. It can take up to 5 minutes to purge all of that out, and the engine can do some very strange things while that is happening.

Irocelectric93 · **Joined:** Sun Jan 25, 2015 5:59 pm **Posts:** 60

I bet you're right. I've almost got it all together now. I'll get a video of it running after. I'll need to contact green diesel engineering to see about removing my egr and fcv codes. I've had an Eco tune since I bought it but those particular codes are popping up.

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Irocelectric93 · **Joined:** Sun Jan 25, 2015 5:59 pm **Posts:** 60

Well I got everything back together and running. All the codes are gone except the fcv and egr as stated above. The p0090 is still there. Not sure what's up with that. I checked the connection and it seems good. So either the wiring is bad or I guess the solenoid could be malfunctioning? I doubt the latter.

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GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Mon Mar 13, 2017 12:44 am

I'm assuming you've done a code clear with an OEM quality tool.. If not, do that first.

That code can be tripped by just a flash intermittent open, such as if a connector were not fully connected to the locking point.

GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Mon Mar 13, 2017 12:48 am

If you pin test at the ECM, there should be between 3 and 5.5 ohms (wiring plus FQS in series)

Irocelectric93 · **Joined:** Sun Jan 25, 2015 5:59 pm **Posts:** 60

Well the Jeep is def in limp mode. I've seen some others on here have had this issue but it isn't particularly common. I'll grab my volt meter and start checking. Before I start searching does anyone know what pin numbers at the ecu I should be looking for? Yay for cars.

Trying to figure out what this noise is

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