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 Post subject: Re: FFD Jeep Liberty CRD Stage 4 Extreme
PostPosted: Sun Mar 05, 2017 7:28 pm 
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Hmm, I wouldn't think that gutting the ac parts would make a big difference if the ac is off, but maybe. I did it for reliability and an open bay mostly.

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 Post subject: Re: FFD Jeep Liberty CRD Stage 4 Extreme
PostPosted: Sun Mar 05, 2017 7:52 pm 
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Location: Green Cove Springs FL
What about replacing the factory condenser/trans cooler with a gasser condenser?
It will be a larger condenser because it wont have the trans cooler at the bottom.
Then attach whatever aftermarket cooler into the grille.

Maybe this way the larger condenser will be more efficient due to greater surface area.

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 Post subject: Re: FFD Jeep Liberty CRD Stage 4 Extreme
PostPosted: Mon Mar 06, 2017 12:10 am 
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mass-hole wrote:
OK so here is my new theory:

I think FFD may have purposefully built the shroud smaller than the radiator core to allow air flow at high speeds. I have been taking my electric fan/shroud on and off lately and what I have found is that the jeep actually cools better without the fan/shroud in place at high speeds. I think that the e-fan is not able to move air quickly enough at 60+ mph to support the natural flow through the radiator, and since the fan blade is only a 15" circle + the fan hub is 6.5" diameter, you really only have 143 in^2 to flow air through. And probably less than that since the blades may cause some restriction if they are not spinning fast enough. Thats on a 20"x20"(400 sq in) core minus the fins.

If you look at the OE shroud its basically a 20" hole with the fan sitting inside of it. The opening gets all the way to the edges of the radiator core so that only the corners of the core dont have a direct flow path out of the shroud.

I now think the most effective way to mount an e fan is to mount it directly to the core with no shroud or make a shroud with flaps that open under pressure, that way when you are at high speeds the radiator can basically flow its full surface area with little to no restriction and the fan can do its most effective work at lower speeds. FFD themselves told me that their fans are not going to help me at highway speeds and that they are most effective for slow speed travel with no natural air flow(off-roading, mudding, traffic jams)

These are what I am thinking:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/spu-ix-30130012?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-spal-automotive-usa&gclid=CjwKEAiAi-_FBRCZyPm_14CjoyASJAClUigOSrB-mW7j86PMVrJUZL9uxirdRG_ltq9fKBS8eZ9JohoCnpbw_wcB


I very much doubt they thought the shroud purposely smaller for flow purposes, they took a specific shroud they had and used it. They could've had a bigger shroud with flaps, but I don't think they had one that big. At least this is what I think.

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 Post subject: Re: FFD Jeep Liberty CRD Stage 4 Extreme
PostPosted: Mon Mar 06, 2017 3:31 am 
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Pull your shroud and take a look at the gap (top, bottom, and sides) between the Radiator and the Intercooler. Pusher, Puller, shroud or not, this is all lost efficiency due to lost or looped air flow. In the bits that I've been able to run it this winter I have neither mech fan (not there) or electric (disconnected).
It was running around 195-205ish F around town until I put
https://www.zoro.com/frost-king-spnge-rubber-foam-tape-12inx10-ft-8-mil-r512h/i/G5224301/ on the sides and
http://www.trusupply.com/Backer-Rod1-1-4in.htm?feed=Froogle&_vsrefdom=adwords&gclid=CjwKEAiAi-_FBRCZyPm_14CjoyASJAClUigOn7OpUd4KvsEpYS79lJhIReDjhysJCsnZf7gtFmGONhoCbsbw_wcB top and bottom, to insure lineal flow of air. Haven't driven it a great deal since then, but the temp never went over 180-185F per snap-on.

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 Post subject: Re: FFD Jeep Liberty CRD Stage 4 Extreme
PostPosted: Mon Mar 27, 2017 9:55 pm 
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Decided to go fixed fan. I will post up some pics of mine on the original fixed fan thread if you wanna check it out.

I havent driven with it yet but i started the jeep in the garage. At idle its about the same as the stock fan, maybe a tad bit louder, but when I rev'd it to 3000 rpms with the hood open it sounded like a C-130.

I also found out that my 8 month old Hayden fan clutch was dead. I put it in the oven at 200 and then 225 and it never locked up.

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 Post subject: Re: FFD Jeep Liberty CRD Stage 4 Extreme
PostPosted: Tue May 09, 2017 1:01 pm 
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tjkj2002 wrote:
thermorex wrote:
Just to make sure we are talking about the same thing, I went and Google dtt:
http://www.eaton.com/RU/Eaton/ProductsS ... /index.htm

I may be wrong, but the helical gears in dtt will actually make the Diff fully locked once it properly engages, and unless the wheel spin stops, it will stay engaged. This is what I referred to as "don't like". This Diff should be similar in operation to a torsen Diff. And also this is the reason I would not want one installed in the front.

Regarding breaking the Diff, it's always easier to winch it than wrench it. So if you know your vehicle limits, you won't break anything. I'd use the front locker in a stock Dana 30a only on mud, snow or ice, and even that, very sparingly, never rock climbing and never on tires bigger than 30-31 inch. There are folks breaking Dana 60, chromoly axles, etc all the time, especially in performance offroading. But they don't have a choice all the time to take it easy due to time constraints.

Bfg ta ko/ko2 are not too good on ice, I have had them for years. Excellent on pavement wear and tear, good in dry offroad, so-so in mud, with ko2 being better than ko. It's probably the best offroad tire overall that is also forgiving on pavement roads and not too noisy.

Detroit lockers are maybe the most reliable out there and they don't cost a lot either. I'd use those without a doubt on a dedicated offroad vehicle.

Onboard air is not really a must unless you have air lockers and popping tires out a lot, which means some really serious offroad. I mainly do some "safari" offroad, camping, some ditch crossing, stuff like that. Anyways, the liberty isn't made to be a true offroad, not w/o some serious mods, like tjkj's.

I'd be interested to see how the fan experiment ends up mass-hole, I think if you'll be OK with the hayden you may be fine with an ffd fan also. Oh, I'd also try the stant 190F if I were you. You can set the controller to start the fan at 205F and stop at 190F. I believe that's the interval on the flexalite controller (or it's 20F?).


Regarding your ecoboost, did you take into consideration the full gear ratio, that includes transfer case, transmission and Diff gearing?

DTT's are designed and work best in front applications.I ran one in my KJ for a little over 3 years and loved it.It was 100% invisible besides the steering wheel "returning to center" faster then when it was still a open diff.Was great for snow and ice since it was a point and shoot when in 4wd.Offroad you could step on the brakes a little and "fool" the DTT to locking,actually helped keep the D30A from breaking.

My buddy ran a ARB in the D30A for years and never broke the diff and he was not easy on it offroad.

Oh and be aware that OX changes hands every few years and here in Colorado they are not favored at all,it's more Detroit lockers or ARB's for strength and known reliability.


Last thing who ever stated that a F150 was 6400lbs is far off,before the aluminum body the heaviest(crewcab,V8,4wd) was actually around 5700lbs stock.


Here you go. Looking at travel trailers so I decided to weigh my truck before making any decisions.

Image

That's without the cap on, full tank of fuel(literally had just filled across the street) and a baby seat in the back. So I came in 21 lbs lighter than the door sticker estimates(6161). With the cap on it is pushing 6400 lbs.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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