Hardline tubing on top of engine?

Big Jimmy · **Joined:** Thu Mar 24, 2011 9:48 pm **Posts:** 29

I'm trying to identify what the tubing is for on top of the engine, directly behind the timing belt cover area, but before the first injector. (At least I think that's what I'm looking at.) I have a situation where I'm getting some gases pulsing out of that area. This is right where that tubing goes from hardline to rubber hose (at that connection). I was thinking that this must be part of the CCV, but it doesn't connect back to the puck. I can't actually tell where it goes, and I can't seem to find any info on it in my factory service manual either.

So does anyone know what this thing is, and where it goes on both ends? (It runs in the left-right direction. Left-side / passenger-side is the rubber part. Right-side / driver's-side is the hardline tubing part of it.)

In my case, I think the hardline tube is cracked or otherwise broken because it seems like the connection to the rubber hose is still solid. But I can hear the clicking/rattling/pulsing when the engine is running and smoke/gas vapors are puffing out of that area.

If anyone knows, I could really use some info on this.

I have a 2006 Liberty CRD.

Thanks all,
Jimmy

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Wed May 15, 2024 1:19 am

If its the 5/8 hose, it is the coolant return hose from the EGR cooler.
It is a rubber hose that connect to a Y metal fitting. (picture below)
If you are getting exhaust gases out of it, it means the EGR cooler has failed internally and allowing exhaust gases to be pumped into the engine cooling system.
See diagram below.

Best option is to block off the EGR exhaust feed tube and do away with all the EGR cooling lines.
Or better yet, totally remove ALL the EGR CRAP!

Post some pictures if you can, it would help positively identify what you are referring to.

Metal Y hose fitting:

taroo · **Joined:** Sun Apr 27, 2008 2:14 pm **Posts:** 292

Excellent diagram. I still need to purchase the Viscous heater delete kit from you.

WWDiesel wrote:

If its the 5/8 hose, it is the coolant return hose from the EGR cooler.
It is a rubber hose that connect to a Y metal fitting.
If you are getting exhaust gases out of it, it means the EGR cooler has failed internally and allowing exhaust gases to be pumped into the engine cooling system.
See diagram below.

Best option is to block off the EGR exhaust feed tube and do away with all the EGR cooling lines.
Or better yet, totally remove ALL the EGR CRAP!

Post some pictures if you can, it would help positively identify what you are referring to.

Metal Y hose fitting:

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Wed May 15, 2024 11:31 am

taroo wrote:

Excellent diagram. I still need to purchase the Viscous heater delete kit from you.

I currently have several of them in stock ready for immediate shipment. :wink:

Please email or message me if you would like to purchase. Free Shipping in the US!

Big Jimmy · **Joined:** Thu Mar 24, 2011 9:48 pm **Posts:** 29

It's been a while, but I'm finally getting back to this. Let's see if the picture link works. I am getting some kind of exhaust leak coming from this area (circled in red).

What is this tube/pipe?

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Tue Jun 11, 2024 11:35 pm

That is the coolant return pipe from the EGR cooler on the drivers side of the engine. If you are getting exhaust out of this pipe, it means your EGR cooler is leaking and allowing exhaust gases to enter the coolant side of the cooler, or your head gasket has blown or you have a cracked head and exhaust gases is being pumping into the cooling system via the EGR cooler hose that comes off the center of the head. Exhaust and coolant should never mix!
No matter the culprit, it is not good for the engine. Exhaust gases being pumped into the cooling system will make the engine overheat.

Most either simply remove all the EGR crap off the engine or blank off the exhaust feed tube so it becomes a non-issue..

Are you losing coolant level in the coolant tank, liquid level dropping?

taroo · **Joined:** Sun Apr 27, 2008 2:14 pm **Posts:** 292

Big Jimmy wrote:

It's been a while, but I'm finally getting back to this. Let's see if the picture link works. I am getting some kind of exhaust leak coming from this area (circled in red).

What is this tube/pipe?

Hhmm..do you still have your EGR and FCV? I think it is a water line that goes to your EGR to cool it. You should have removed your EGR and Flow Control Valve years ago and that line would have cut/capped.

Also, (unrelated) do you not have an oil/air separator from your CCV to protect your turbo?

Big Jimmy · **Joined:** Thu Mar 24, 2011 9:48 pm **Posts:** 29

WWDiesel wrote:

That is the coolant return pipe from the EGR cooler on the drivers side of the engine.....

Most either simply remove all the EGR crap off the engine or blank off the exhaust feed tube so it becomes a non-issue..

Are you losing coolant level in the coolant tank, liquid level dropping?

Well, that doesn't sound great. I never removed the EGR stuff because at the time (years ago) I just wasn't sure what all needed to be removed, and/or exactly how best to do it. But I did unplug the the MAF sensor. And I've left it unplugged ever since then. Does that help my situation, or explain anything for this case? I never installed a block-off plate, but my understanding back then was that by unplugging the MAF, I effectively disabled all of the EGR stuff. Is that true?

I'm not currently losing any coolant. At least not that I've noticed so far... I'll definitely pay more attention to that now. And I haven't' had any overheating situations.

Do you guys have a good link to a how-to, to properly remove all the EGR stuff? I'm not opposed to removing all of that now. I just wasn't so sure about it back then. I was still thinking that I might need to plug that sensor back in at some point to run the Jeep through emissions. And if I remove it all now, can I plug the MAF back in and get rid of the check engine light that's always on?

Jimmy

Big Jimmy · **Joined:** Thu Mar 24, 2011 9:48 pm **Posts:** 29

taroo wrote:

Hhmm..do you still have your EGR and FCV? I think it is a water line that goes to your EGR to cool it. You should have removed your EGR and Flow Control Valve years ago and that line would have cut/capped.

Also, (unrelated) do you not have an oil/air separator from your CCV to protect your turbo?

I've never heard that much about the FCV. I'm not familiar with what exactly that does. Is that part of the EGR system? (And please see my previous post above for more background info about how I unplugged my MAF senor.)

I also don't know that much about the CCV stuff you're mentioning. Please enlighten me. Is that what I've seen about an 'elephant hose' mod? And/or an oil catch can type thing?

Jimmy

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Wed Jun 12, 2024 2:01 am

Big Jimmy wrote:

taroo wrote:

Hhmm..do you still have your EGR and FCV? I think it is a water line that goes to your EGR to cool it. You should have removed your EGR and Flow Control Valve years ago and that line would have cut/capped.
Also, (unrelated) do you not have an oil/air separator from your CCV to protect your turbo?

I've never heard that much about the FCV. I'm not familiar with what exactly that does. Is that part of the EGR system? (And please see my previous post above for more background info about how I unplugged my MAF senor.)
I also don't know that much about the CCV stuff you're mentioning. Please enlighten me. Is that what I've seen about an 'elephant hose' mod? And/or an oil catch can type thing?
Jimmy

Maybe this will help you identify the EGR parts?

SJBrooks · **Joined:** Tue Mar 11, 2014 11:01 am **Posts:** 80

Hi all,

Unfortunately I've out of the saddle for about a year, so just now back to where I can participate on this forum. I deleted the FCV years ago and put on the Weeks intake, and just yesterday ordered the parts to replace the head gasket/lifters/timing belt and associated items. All the EGR cooler "stuff" is still on and I want to fully delete it when I do the big engine work. Would GREATLY appreciate if someone would describe how to do that and what parts/etc are needed.

It's great to be back on here amongst all of y'all!

Steve

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Wed Jul 17, 2024 11:48 pm

Eliminate the EGR cooler and all its associated plumbing (hoses) by removing the coolant hose fitting in the center of the head and plugging it with a *plug.
[*](12x1.5mm oil drain plug available at most automotive parts stores)
Remove the "Y" fitting on top of the engine where the return hose for the EGR cooler is connected by installing a simple straight 5/8" hose coupling.

The EGR valve & cooler is easy to remove, just four bolts holding it to the side of the block.
See pictures for details.

Need more help, just ask! :wink:

SJBrooks · **Joined:** Tue Mar 11, 2014 11:01 am **Posts:** 80

Thanks WW! Your posts/replies have always been SO helpful.

Steve

geordi · **Posted:** Tue Aug 20, 2024 11:33 am

If you are going to replace the head gasket for any reason (like a leak) - REPLACE THE VALVES! The work load is the same, but the valves need to be replaced to prevent catastrophic engine damage if one of them separates without warning. The failure will happen anywhere above 150k miles but the closer you are to 200k, the more likely it gets.

If you need help with this service, please email me and I will be happy to assist. The address is jeep@maincomputer.com

spoon · **Posted:** Tue Aug 20, 2024 8:41 pm

And I had an exhaust valve go at around 100,000 miles.

SJBrooks · **Joined:** Tue Mar 11, 2014 11:01 am **Posts:** 80

Update on this, from my posts above:

Got the head gasket/studs/exhaust valves/all timing-related pieces/upgraded fan and clutch/etc job done, and it started on the first try and runs great. Since I had, years ago, removed the FCV and got the needed GDE tune, I completed the full removal of the rest of the EGR crap thanks to WW's inputs on this thread. Only problem experienced so far is a stored P0403 code (no CEL). I know this is due to the EGR cooler solenoid being removed, but I thought the GDE tune would eliminate the subsequent 0403. Anybody know why the 0403's there at this point, and can provide a solution(s) for it?

Next tasks are the in-tank lift pump mod and installing a self-leveling rear airbag system. Been a lot of work this winter, and looking forward to getting the little tractor out on the road!

Regards,

Steve

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sat Mar 15, 2025 10:02 pm

SJBrooks wrote:

Update on this, from my posts above:
Got the head gasket/studs/exhaust valves/all timing-related pieces/upgraded fan and clutch/etc job done, and it started on the first try and runs great. Since I had, years ago, removed the FCV and got the needed GDE tune, I completed the full removal of the rest of the EGR crap thanks to WW's inputs on this thread. Only problem experienced so far is a stored P0403 code (no CEL). I know this is due to the EGR cooler solenoid being removed, but I thought the GDE tune would eliminate the subsequent 0403. Anybody know why the 0403's there at this point, and can provide a solution(s) for it?
Next tasks are the in-tank lift pump mod and installing a self-leveling rear airbag system. Been a lot of work this winter, and looking forward to getting the little tractor out on the road!
Regards,
Steve

That code is for the EGR valve being unplugged (removed)
Reach out to Marco aka Yeti on this forum or over on FaceBook. He can reem out (disable) the DTC in the software.
You may have to go back to your original factory tune in order to reflash with one of his custom performance tunes with all EGR related items removed in the software. Not sure what he can do with the GDE tune, I understand it is very difficult to modify modify. :banghead:

Marco's tunes are very, very good, been running his Stage IV Hot Tune with all EGR items removed continuously for over ten years now.

SJBrooks · **Joined:** Tue Mar 11, 2014 11:01 am **Posts:** 80

Said it quite a few times before, but thanks WW for your timely replies. That's certainly a good option to explore, but in the meantime: 1. Since there's no related CEL, is there any performance problem with just letting the 0403 stay stored, and 2. What about removing the solenoid from the EGR cooler and plugging it into the now-open connector and zip-tieing it out of the way under the hood somewhere?

Steve

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Mon Mar 17, 2025 3:46 am

SJBrooks wrote:

Said it quite a few times before, but thanks WW for your timely replies. That's certainly a good option to explore, but in the meantime: 1. Since there's no related CEL, is there any performance problem with just letting the 0403 stay stored, and 2. What about removing the solenoid from the EGR cooler and plugging it into the now-open connector and zip-tieing it out of the way under the hood somewhere?
Steve

Nothing wrong with just letting the DTC stay stored. You could try removing the solenoid from the EGR valve and plugging it in and see if the DTC will clear. If it does, wrap it up good with some tape and tie wrap it to a hose or something so it can't move around.
FYI, it is not the cooler, it has no electrical connection, it is the actual EGR valve itself that has the electrical connection. See picture :wink:

SJBrooks · **Joined:** Tue Mar 11, 2014 11:01 am **Posts:** 80

Thanks again, WW! Yea, that terminology stuff will get me sometimes. Good to know about just letting the code stay stored, but I think I'll have a go at removing the solenoid and reconnecting it and see if the code goes away. I'll report back...

Steve

Hardline tubing on top of engine?

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