Head Gasket Job

PANHEAD · **Joined:** Thu Feb 26, 2015 7:26 pm **Posts:** 63

So I got the dreaded pressure blowout of the coolant reservoir a couple weeks ago, pretty mild but I knew the HG was leaking from previous CRD with same problem. Pulled head everything looks pretty good, saw very small coolant leak around #1. Surface looks good, tried the old straight edge/feeler gauge check, seemed straight.
Should I replace my exhaust valves? (175K)
I was just going to clean up everything & reassemble with new gaskets & such. I have had a catastrophic valve failure on another CRD but there were extenuating circumstances on that vehicle.
Any other related advice appreciated!

geordi · **Posted:** Sun Mar 05, 2017 6:41 pm

$150... Or do it all again and replace the engine?

While we don't know the specifics yet of the valves, we know for certain that replacements haven't been (possibly) abused for however much mileage your CRD has, and that new will be good for at least 150-200k even if they are stock.

Seems like a no-brainer to me.

New gasket, studs, rockers (maybe if needed), full EGR delete... The labor overlaps, so it is just parts. Might as well?

PANHEAD · **Joined:** Thu Feb 26, 2015 7:26 pm **Posts:** 63

Would I need new Valve seats?

flash7210 · **Posted:** Sun Mar 05, 2017 7:42 pm

PANHEAD wrote:

Would I need new Valve seats?

If the seats are not damaged then you wont need new ones.
New valves will have to lapped into the seats. Standard valve job stuff.

PANHEAD · **Joined:** Thu Feb 26, 2015 7:26 pm **Posts:** 63

Just ordered vales from I.D.

Thanks for your input!

geordi · **Posted:** Sun Mar 05, 2017 10:11 pm

Yeah, I haven't replaced the seats on anybody, just lapped the valves in. Not hard, but these are three-angle seats, so they can't (easily) be ground anyway.

While you are waiting, you might want to bring the head to a machine shop and have it tested just to be certain it doesn't leak, they can clean it and the valve cover for you so they are sparkling, and I would suggest replacing the crap exhaust manifold studs in the head with rated hardware - let them pull the studs! Those garbage factory studs have a nasty habit of twisting right off, and they are made from the softest metal I have ever seen in a fastener.

PANHEAD · **Joined:** Thu Feb 26, 2015 7:26 pm **Posts:** 63

I'm on it, Thanks!

Mountainman · **Posted:** Tue Mar 07, 2017 12:16 am

geordi wrote:

Yeah, I haven't replaced the seats on anybody, just lapped the valves in. Not hard, but these are three-angle seats, so they can't (easily) be ground anyway.

While you are waiting, you might want to bring the head to a machine shop and have it tested just to be certain it doesn't leak, they can clean it and the valve cover for you so they are sparkling, and I would suggest replacing the crap exhaust manifold studs in the head with rated hardware - let them pull the studs! Those garbage factory studs have a nasty habit of twisting right off, and they are made from the softest metal I have ever seen in a fastener.

Those studs are incredibly hard to remove. I gave up after a few on a head I was recycling. Had to use my tiny pipe wrench to move them. i like the idea of having the pros pull them!

geordi · **Posted:** Tue Mar 07, 2017 12:27 am

There is a special stud-biter tool that you can buy at Napa and the like... Papaindigo can tell you about using that on his! It works... Kinda.

However, the last time I used it - was on an engine that was NOT in a body, and the fugging thing jammed on the stud (like it was supposed to)... Then rotated FURTHER and crushed the stud in its round cam jaw... AND SHEARED THE STUD OFF!!!

Now I have a sheared stud, AND a wrecked / jammed stud tool. That was it for me. Now it is up to the machine shops. They have the capabilities, and the answer will be RATED grade 10.9 hardware or nothing!

Studs twisted themselves out of the last head I was working on and two of them sheared anyway, so I had the machine shop pull all of them and we ended up just using 10.9 rated bolts instead of studs for the exhaust manifold and turbo. Worked great, I see no reason why Mopar (or VW for that matter) use these crap things on the exhaust side.

I **hate** pinch nuts BTW... I also see no reason for them either. None of the ones that have ever been replaced with standard (grade 10.9) nuts have ever loosened up.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Tue Mar 07, 2017 1:59 pm

After dealing with stud removal and extraction for many years, I have owned and have tried most all of them at one time or another!

One of my favorite is this type (Gearwrench and and few others make them) that has a some long roller bearings inside the barrel and will grab the stud very good for extraction.
This one also will release the stud if you decide you want take the stud removal tool back off the stud for any reason simply by turning it a little bit in the opposite direction...

A big hint! When working with aluminum parts that have steel studs, spray it good with some CRC Freeze-Off Super Penetrant and then rap the end of the stud several times with a heavy hammer to help jar it some and hopefully loosen it. Repeat this process several times as needed on the more stubborn ones.... :roll:

If the stud will not budge, continuing to twist on it with any stud removal tool will twist or break it off, when this happens, it's time to drill out and retap! :furious:

This one also works good if you have enough room especially on the larger size studs; just be sure you purchase a good quality one and not a cheap version!

There are a multitude of other types of extractor tools available; I got a toolbox full of them, but these two are good basic stud extractor tools and they seem to work best!
:SOMBRERO:

geordi · **Posted:** Tue Mar 07, 2017 2:34 pm

That second one is the one I have now as a workbench paperweight. Completely jammed with crushed stud in its jaw. Grrrr.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Tue Mar 07, 2017 2:48 pm

My "stud" removal on the CRD is limited to the turbo to manifold studs which are weak pieces of cr$p. The tool is better than nothing but one of the studs broke off too short to use the tool but I managed to get it out with vice grips and LIBERAL use of penetrating lube; lube wiggle back and forth lube repeat. My advice 1) if item needing attention is off the vehicle let a pro do it; 2) if not off the vehicle try soaking at least 24 hrs with penetrating lube before gentle attempt to remove; 3) is stud breaks call a pro do NOT try easy out type tool.

PANHEAD · **Joined:** Thu Feb 26, 2015 7:26 pm **Posts:** 63

What about heating the head carefully with a propane torch around the studs after letting them soak in some penetrator?

geordi · **Posted:** Tue Mar 07, 2017 5:47 pm

As I recall, we tried that... No luck. The vice grips were the only things that worked.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Tue Mar 07, 2017 9:09 pm

geordi wrote:

That second one is the one I have now as a workbench paperweight. Completely jammed with crushed stud in its jaw. Grrrr.

As I stated, the first one is my favorite type, it works well in most extractions....
Again, if you have not tried it, the CRC Freeze-Off Super Penetrant is some super good stuff!!!! :roll:

WolverineFW · **Posted:** Wed Mar 08, 2017 3:47 am

I just double nutted mine and they all came out pretty easy.

Sent from my SM-N910W8 using Tapatalk

GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Wed Mar 08, 2017 9:06 pm

For future preventative,
Unicorn $hytte is wonderful anti-seize stuff
http://www.jetlube.com/pages/Nikal_Nuclear.html
Helps to know the right people though.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Wed Mar 08, 2017 10:07 pm

GordnadoCRD wrote:

For future preventative,
Unicorn $hytte is wonderful anti-seize stuff
http://www.jetlube.com/pages/Nikal_Nuclear.html
Helps to know the right people though.

Several other companies also make and market the nickel anti-seize compound like Fel-Pro, Permatex, Locktite, etc....
Available on ebay and other places!
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=nickel+anti+seize

Seriously GOOD stuff especially for road salt or hi-rust prone areas!!!! :roll:

Makes things easier to take apart the next time....

taroo · **Joined:** Sun Apr 27, 2008 2:14 pm **Posts:** 274

GordnadoCRD wrote:

For future preventative,
Unicorn $hytte is wonderful anti-seize stuff
http://www.jetlube.com/pages/Nikal_Nuclear.html
Helps to know the right people though.

Here it is on Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/Jet-Lube-Nickel-Extreme-Anti-Seize-Lubricant/dp/B009VO2JZK/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1489151231&sr=8-4&keywords=nickel+anti+seize

truckbouy2 · **Posted:** Fri Mar 10, 2017 10:12 am

When you you own Chrysler products, I buy anti-sieze buy the case. Because, you WILL be taking it apart again.

Head Gasket Job

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