Tensioner ARGH!

1stepp · **Posted:** Fri Mar 17, 2017 7:04 pm

So the old tensioner was surely toast. Went to put the new one in and it won't torque. Looks like the bracket is stripped out. The old bolt is longer than the new. Is it possible to pick up those rear threads without replacing the bracket or am I screwed and need to drop the PS pump and replace the bracket that would be 5 days out?

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1stepp · **Posted:** Fri Mar 17, 2017 7:05 pm

1stepp wrote:

So the old tensioner was surely toast. Went to put the new one in and it won't torque. Looks like the bracket is stripped out. The old bolt is short than the new. Is it possible to pick up those rear threads without replacing the bracket or am I screwed and need to drop the PS pump and replace the bracket that would be 5 days out?

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And some pics

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1stepp · **Posted:** Fri Mar 17, 2017 7:05 pm

1stepp wrote:

So the old tensioner was surely toast. Went to put the new one in and it won't torque. Looks like the bracket is stripped out. The old bolt is short than the new. Is it possible to pick up those rear threads without replacing the bracket or am I screwed and need to drop the PS pump and replace the bracket that would be 5 days out?

Sent from my SM-G920T using Tapatalk

Sent from my SM-G920T using Tapatalk

1stepp · **Posted:** Fri Mar 17, 2017 7:06 pm

1stepp wrote:

So the old tensioner was surely toast. Went to put the new one in and it won't torque. Looks like the bracket is stripped out. The old bolt is short than the new. Is it possible to pick up those rear threads without replacing the bracket or am I screwed and need to drop the PS pump and replace the bracket that would be 5 days out?

Sent from my SM-G920T using Tapatalk

Sent from my SM-G920T using Tapatalk

1stepp · **Posted:** Fri Mar 17, 2017 8:39 pm

Ok. I got the bracket out. Cleaned the remaining threads and ran the bolt from the backside with a bit of luthium grease. I was able to torque to 35 ft lbs in 5 ft lb increments. So the question, should I trust it?

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wilco549 · **Posted:** Fri Mar 17, 2017 9:01 pm

Since you have it down, I'd use a solid insert like this: https://www.fastenal.com/products/detai ... 0~|sattr02:^M12-1.75$|~

they are much better than a heli-coil and require no special tools...just off the shelf drill bit and tap.

wilco549 · **Posted:** Fri Mar 17, 2017 9:03 pm

I'm not sure it's a M12....just a guess.

Jay ne Ohio · **Joined:** Sun Dec 12, 2010 5:49 pm **Posts:** 216

I would not trust it. You have already witnessed what happens when you only use half the available threads. Use a repair insert like wilco mentioned. I think NAPA has them too.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sun Mar 19, 2017 11:23 am

I am not a big fan of inserts, they can and will come out when removing the bolt during disassembly. They also require a much larger drilled & tapped hole (more invasive) to install versus a *Heli-coil repair. After working on various aluminum engines for many years and installing many threaded inserts of all kinds, I learned the hard way that inserts will not always stay in place as designed! I became a huge fan of Heli-coils! Once installed properly, they will stay in place forever unless some idiot over-torques the bolt or stud, and if that is the case, nothing will survive!
Heli-coils are available at FASTENAL, NAPA, and many other places along with some hardware stores and come in many different threads both metric and standard and also come in different lengths.
If a Heli-coil is too long, it is very simple to cut any excess threads off as opposed to trying to cut a threaded insert off to make it shorter.

If you must insist on using a threaded insert, at a minimum, use one of the brands like KEYSERTS that have the key locking tabs that will hopefully hold the insert in place. GRAINGER, FASTENAL, and some others sale them!

*A helicoil is much stronger than the original thread metal since it is a special stainless steel spiral spring thread material, it will stand up to repeated assembly/dis-assembly and is less likely to have any dissimilar metal corrosion fastener seizure issues like inserts can.
Some manufactures install Heli-coils in threaded holes at the time of manufacture to increase wear resistance and add thread strength.
Some full scale aircraft companies install Heli-Coils in aluminum at the factory to prevent later maintenance problems.
NASA uses helicoils as well to minimize wear from continual reassembly according to some of their whitepapers.

In the end, make your own choice, try and make the best one.... :juggle:

WolverineFW · **Posted:** Sun Mar 19, 2017 11:00 pm

Not to mention Heli-coils come in right and left hand threads...

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Tensioner ARGH!

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