Hard knocking crd

CRD · **Joined:** Sat Mar 18, 2017 1:51 am **Posts:** 1

Ok so I bought a 2006 jeep liberty crd from a used car lot a few months back. I love this jeep, however it has been the biggest pain in the butt ever since. I had a bad experience purchasing the crd. The dealer told me they just got it in on a trade needed a few days to get the crd ready. Two weeks go by still wasn't ready. Ok finally after some time the crd is ready the reason behind why took so long detailing. The dang thing was still dirty! Anyway I didn't care I wanted a turbo diesel jeep liberty! Very hard to find I'm sure you all know this. First issue I notice an oil leak so I decided to go by the jeep dealership to get a full work up to make sure everything's in good condition. Come to find out there's a big oli leak coming from the turbo. I called the used car lot. Said no problem we will get it fixed. They want me to send it to their workshop. Three weeks later I finally get the crd back. A couple weeks go by I noticed the crd started to run harder with a small knocking sound and oil is leaking again and now I've noticed the intake going into the turbo has broken off. So here we go again back to the same shop. I did not want to send the crd back there but had to. The guys at the shop didn't seem too happy I brought it back. So three weeks go by again I get the crd back. Seems good but I've notice the knock is getting worse and lots of black smoke coming from the exhaust. Then I notice the mpg had dropped dramatically. Then the check engine light comes on its the MAF sensor and then my battery which I was told was brand new started to die on me. So I've been getting the crd jump started to see if it's the battery or the alternator. Now today own my way home I notice the power dropped dramatically no power at all, with lots of black smoke coming out of the exhaust. So I quickly pulled over and had a tow truck come pick me and the crd up. Once back home I thought maybe the sensor were the cause. So I cleaned both the MAF and the MAP sensor, also bled the heater box thing had quite a bit off air in it. Fingers crossed, it took some time to crank but the crd did crank but the loudest knocking sound I've ever heard so I quickly turned off the engine. I'm really scared something bad has happened. I first thought timing belt I took a look all belts are fine look brand new in place. So now what could be going on, crd only has 114000 miles on it.

racertracer · **Posted:** Sat Mar 18, 2017 2:49 am

A sound bite of the noise would be good but from what I am reading, I would tell you to immediately stop running it, ... the engine may have a serious problem, serious enough to disintegrate, it may throw a bearing.... it has happened before to other memebers

Take it back to the place you bought it from and see if you can get your money back, or have them eliminate the cause of the knocking and whatever else may be wrong with it. The more days go by since the date of purchase the less likelihood that the dealer will take it back.

If you keep it, you may be looking at a 5 to 6000 dollar repair bill possibly more or less if you know how to work on cars yourself.

Where is the Jeep? Someone from this group may live close by and can assist you.

GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Sat Mar 18, 2017 3:06 am

Oil can build up in the intercooler to the point that driving it will cause a cylinder to hydraulic lock. Just shy of that, it will knock like nothing else I know of. Way louder than a bad rod bearing. I know this because when I bought mine it would idle great, but any attempt to drive it would make that knocking, and the oil from the turbo had filled everything to the point it was actually puking black oil out the tailpipe.

Jay ne Ohio · **Joined:** Sun Dec 12, 2010 5:49 pm **Posts:** 216

CRD wrote:

Come to find out there's a big oli leak coming from the turbo.

Oil leak at the turbo could be leaking on the drain tube (under the turbo), the pressure line (on top of the turbo) or from the turbo bearing (oil would leak out the outlet side of the turbo where it connects to the intercooler hose).

CRD wrote:

A couple weeks go by I noticed the crd started to run harder with a small knocking sound and oil is leaking again and now I've noticed the intake going into the turbo has broken off.

Intake hose from air box can become brittle over time and break. This will cause dirty air to be sucked into turbo instead of filtered air. This is not good for the turbo.

CRD wrote:

Seems good but I've notice the knock is getting worse and lots of black smoke coming from the exhaust.

When the turbo fails, oil gets sucked into the engine and results in black smoke. The intercooler also gets filled with oil and the drain pan oil level will go down. If your drain pan runs out of oil and you continue to run the engine, the engine will be severely damaged.

CRD wrote:

Then I notice the mpg had dropped dramatically. Then the check engine light comes on its the MAF sensor and then my battery which I was told was brand new started to die on me. So I've been getting the crd jump started to see if it's the battery or the alternator.

Batteries can be load tested at any auto parts store to determine if they are good or bad. If the alternator is good, the voltage will be around 14 volts at the battery. If it is bad, the voltage will be 12 or less.

CRD wrote:

Now today own my way home I notice the power dropped dramatically no power at all, with lots of black smoke coming out of the exhaust. So I quickly pulled over and had a tow truck come pick me and the crd up. Once back home I thought maybe the sensor were the cause. So I cleaned both the MAF and the MAP sensor, also bled the heater box thing had quite a bit off air in it. Fingers crossed, it took some time to crank but the crd did crank but the loudest knocking sound I've ever heard so I quickly turned off the engine. I'm really scared something bad has happened. I first thought timing belt I took a look all belts are fine look brand new in place. So now what could be going on, crd only has 114000 miles on it.

The sensor is not the cause, but is an indicator that you have other problems. Probably a bad turbo and an intercooler full of oil based on the info you supplied. I am also concerned that the timing belt might not have been changed at the recommended 100k interval and you might be sitting on a time bomb of failure. Do not run it until you figure out the problem.

First check the oil level in the engine. If it is ok, then you could disconnect the intercooler hose on the drivers side an try running it to see how it sounds. This would prevent any more oil from being sucked into the engine intake from the intercooler IF it is full of oil.

rankom · **Posted:** Sat Mar 18, 2017 9:16 am

check your injectors , over fuel can be also make black smoke rattle noise, check exhaust manifold temperature .

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sat Mar 18, 2017 9:39 am

Where are you located?
You really need someone who is intricately familiar with these engines to help you diagnose the problem!
Most shops and / or mechanics don't have a clue about these unique little diesels or how to properly diagnose problems with them.... :roll:

jws84_02 · **Posted:** Sat Mar 18, 2017 9:54 am

Yes, stop taking it to that shop/dealer.

Next post up a video of it running. Is it idling rough?

Like mentioned, the turbo can leake out the drain line or feed line. If those aren't the culprit than the turbo is failing and allowing oil to dump out. you can take the intake to turbo tube off and check for shaft play. If that's the case don't run the jeep and replace turbo before bottom end damage is done from oil starvation

What is your location?

Hard knocking crd

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