Engine light and no power

rankom · **Posted:** Mon May 08, 2017 6:42 pm

yeah i have a pump CUMMINS oem 15 psi at FF head , since i got this CRD 3 years ago, it works perfect , so yes I'm like you i did tell the jeep parts guys it is BS , since i had to trow away oem fuel heads including new style. so they say that's not needed , not me LOL

PANHEAD · **Joined:** Thu Feb 26, 2015 7:26 pm **Posts:** 63

Reading this thread like my diary for last couple months, broke down and dropped off at dealership, they have one CRD guy. Hopefully there will be some stored codes, getting nothing on ELM327 thing.

Steve777 · **Joined:** Fri Oct 16, 2015 11:31 pm **Posts:** 279

So, in between weather and work, I think I have managed to get a firm diagnosis on this P0201 problem. Even had my neighbor (who used to work building satellites over to confirm my suspicions). Here's what's we think happened:

1. The P0201 is just what it says, in this case, an electrical issue to inj #1.

2. I found the wires and the pin locations for Inj #1 at the ECU and the issue is with the brown wire with yellow-lime stripe, which goes to pin location #50 on the connector (second from the top in the inside column).

3. With the engine running, I can "switch" it from 3 cyls firing to 4 cyls, by playing with this wire at the connector. No signs of chewing or breaks in the wire, but all the wires at the connector were free and moving around (got it like that). Theory is this wire has bounced around enough to have broken inside the insulation at or near the connector. Does not appear to be enough good wire out of the connector to solder to.

Only a couple of solutions: One would be to replace the entire wiring harness, which I am trying to avoid. A second option would be to get a used connector and a 1' or so of wires and splice it in, which I would consider. The third option is to find the Bosch tools/parts for these connectors and pull the bad wire/connector out of the connector and replace it with a new one. This is the option I am most leaning to if I can find the tools/parts.

There should be an "extraction tool" that goes into the connector and releases a single wire and metal "thingie" so they will pull out for inspection/replacement. Then one can cut off the bad end, put a new metal thingie on and put it back in the plastic block of the connector. It may also require a special "insertion tool".

So my question is, does anyone know where to buy or rent these special Bosch connector tools? I suspect dealers won't have them as they would rather sell harnesses. But they should be out there.

And/or does anyone have a wiring harness end from an 06 CRD they's like to sell?

Thanks

flash7210 · **Posted:** Mon May 15, 2017 7:57 pm

The injector wire connector is the same as for a Chevy Duramax injector.
You could probably get one from your local chevy dealer or auto parts store.

Or from amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01HBXZ3NM/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1494892566&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=duramax+injector+connector&dpPl=1&dpID=419Oem6AbrL&ref=plSrch

This is getting to be a common problem where where wire connectors break internally causing intermittent faults.
When all else fails, start wiggling connectors untill you can reproduce the fault.

HER_CRD · **Posted:** Mon May 15, 2017 9:50 pm

I've had the same thing going on at the ECU connector with the #1 injector. I have a set of terminal release tools at work. Not sure though if they work with the Bosch connector.

Has anyone figured out how to take the connector apart?

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HER_CRD · **Posted:** Mon May 15, 2017 10:11 pm

Steve, did you check your ECU pins for the #1 injector for any burn marks? Pin 25 on mine had a black spot on it. I was discussing this with a coworker today and I'm told that we've had field issues with engine controllers (I work for a diesel engine distributor) where there would be vibration between the controller and connector. That vibration produced an intermittent connection and would arc across the pin creating the burn mark. Eventually it just makes a bad connection.

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GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Mon May 15, 2017 10:13 pm

What was their fix?

HER_CRD · **Posted:** Tue May 16, 2017 7:15 am

When I'm saying engine controller, it's really the display unit for vitals and in some instances throttle control and ignition. We just call them controllers.

Anyway, the issue came down to quality of the parts used (the controller was of our own design). There was constant push to make it cheaper and parts that were selected eventually made this controller so it could not withstand industrial engine applications. Primary throttle function was lost and the display portion eventually went dead. It does fine in stationary applications where the engine never goes anywhere and the controller can be mounted to a wall (I think we have some alive on gensets).

The fix was to replace that controller and associated wiring with something of a completely different design.

We still have some field issues with these, but the design and failure diagnosis was before my time so I'm going off what I've been told. I know we won't be getting new ECU's but I thought it was interesting to share.

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GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Tue May 16, 2017 2:16 pm

Thank you for sharing that.

Even though the situation isn't directly comparable with the CRD, we still have continuity issues at connectors, and it seems to be worse with the CRDs. I didn't have any blackened pins when I checked mine, but it wouldn't be altogether surprising if it happened in the future.

That is one connector I haven't taken apart, so if and when you do, please post pics!

Steve777 · **Joined:** Fri Oct 16, 2015 11:31 pm **Posts:** 279

It's been a while, but our recent snow has melted and I have made progress, I think.

Thanks for the comments, I did pull the ECU out and check the pins and there were signs of carbon arcing on "the one" causing issues for the injector. Cleaned up all the pins and used some 400 emery to clean off the carbon. (that alone has not solved it, BTW)

I did find out how to remove terminals from the connector [BIG THANKS to the guys at Green Diesel Engineering who gave me the "secret handshake"]. There is a pink/magenta plastic "keeper" which slides in from the bottom of the connector. Use a small pick or screwdriver to free and slide that out, at lease far enough to go past the pin/terminal(s) you want to pull. Then insert a pin or really small pick into the tiny hole right next to the big hole of the terminal you want out; this is the tiny hole right next to the hole the ECU pin goes into. Pull gently on the wire from the back as you do this. There is a little finger of metal on the terminal that your pin will compress and release. Once that finger is released, the wire starts moving out and you got it.

I have a couple of pics, but can't see how to upload them into a post here. If someone can explain that, I get them up there. But once you know how, it's fairly easy to pull wires and their terminals from the connector. Putting them back in is basically the reverse: with the keeper slide down, put the terminal in from the back and push it forwards until it clicks in. NOTE: it only works one way, with that little finger you released to get it out, on the side with that release hole. Once it is in, push the keeper back up all the way.

Anyway, when I got the terminal out there was some sort of clear "jello" in it. I suspect clear Si caulk as was used to seal up the unused holes in the connector block. Anyhow some seems to have worked its way into this terminal and was causing a bad connection to the pin on the ECU. That explains the intermittent nature of the problem and why I could make it come and go by moving this wire around. No signs of wire problems as I originally suspected/theorized. I have tried cleaning out the terminal, but there is really no good way to clean or even see the metal surfaces which make electrical contact. So while I will try a few solvents, I've also ordered some new terminal ends and plan on replacing this one, even if the cleaning seems to work (still waiting for some contact cleaner which removed corrosion before giving it a try again, but it would be nice to be able to use the Jeep while waiting on the new terminals to arrive).

HER_CRD · **Posted:** Wed May 24, 2017 2:08 pm

I noticed when I had my ECU out there was some clear goobery stuff on a few of the pins.

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Engine light and no power

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