Is there a way to monitor turbo temp?

Goglio704 · **Posted:** Sat Apr 29, 2006 10:51 pm

We are supposed to idle these CRD engines down to reduce turbo temp and oil coking in the turbo bearings. The problem I see is that the idle time varies according to usage. One man's idea of running the pee out of the motor might be another man's moderate load. What would be an objective way to know when the turbo is cooled down? Would EGT be the way to go? I always thought much of the heat is removed by the oil flow. Would monitoring the temp of the return oil from the turbo be a good way to judge turbo temp? Opinions (or better yet facts) anybody?

Ripster · **Posted:** Sun Apr 30, 2006 9:42 am

EGT is in my opinion the only way to go. There are a couple here working on getting one set up. I have had two EGTs one in a diesel and one in a gas turbo, they are great for establishing a base line and then using it to know when to turn off. I have been searching for a single pod system, since I only want the one gauge, that I can use on the Liberty pillar or dash, I will get the lunar EGT from autometer as I have history with that model. So once my research is done, as it seems no one anywhere has one installed, I will try to install one, the pod is the hangup, installation is simple if you have a mounting system figured out. Just keep watching, in the next month or so, someone here will do it, and you will have a road map to follow if you like their setup.

Goglio704 · **Posted:** Sun Apr 30, 2006 10:33 am

I thought EGT would be a good way to go. I've never driven anything with an EGT gauge and don't have a frame of reference. Thanks for the input. Are you planning to monitor EGT before or after the turbo?

oldnavy · **Posted:** Sun Apr 30, 2006 11:19 am

Goglio704 wrote:

I thought EGT would be a good way to go. I've never driven anything with an EGT gauge and don't have a frame of reference. Thanks for the input. Are you planning to monitor EGT before or after the turbo?

Only proper place is prior to turbo.

Ripster · **Posted:** Sun Apr 30, 2006 1:45 pm

I agree with Old Navy, but most put it after, because you have to remove the exhaust to put it before-- to remove the fillings, even after turbo
you have a reference point of when on idle the temperature will not cool off much more, so in my opinion you can use it after turbo
and be in the ball park, unless you have the tools, time, etc to remove and do pre turbo, or have a cummins where the intake is so much easier to
get at.

oldnavy · **Posted:** Sun Apr 30, 2006 2:11 pm

Hey Rippster it is easy to do a pre turbo, just drill slow. You have wheel bearing grease on dril tip and what little if any shavings go into exhaust will blow through before turbo ever spins up, our VNT turbo makes this even easier. Done one and seen many done that way, lot of TDI's done that way. The main reason 10 to 20 years ago for doing after turbo, was sensor failure and possible turbo damage. However most of the time the sensor broke there was no damage due to the sensor breaking after stopping engine and the sensor parts would just blow through the turbo when engine started again. Our turbos are relative easy to get to with a right angle adaptor for a Dremmel tool, :wink:

the bigger problem is where to put the darn gage.

Ripster · **Posted:** Sun Apr 30, 2006 2:19 pm

I have used a pillar two pod in both of my other vehicles. I have ordered one for the Liberty and will remove the handle if
necessary and see how it fits after spraying it. Will hold off on the gauges till I see how this pod is going to work.
Will look at the EGT placement once the pod is done. http://www.gaugepods.com/liberty.jpg is a picture of one.

oldnavy · **Posted:** Sun Apr 30, 2006 3:03 pm

Ripster wrote:

I have used a pillar two pod in both of my other vehicles. I have ordered one for the Liberty and will remove the handle if
necessary and see how it fits after spraying it. Will hold off on the gauges till I see how this pod is going to work.
Will look at the EGT placement once the pod is done. http://www.gaugepods.com/liberty.jpg is a picture of one.

Wife would drop a brick if I took out her grab handle.

bhysjulien · **Posted:** Sun Apr 30, 2006 8:32 pm

I'm not sure if this would work on the CRD but I'll throw it out there. To eliminate chips/burrs when drilling a pistol barrel for ports use a carbide bit and spin it FAST. The carbide bit more or less powders the metal so you're left with a clean hole without any chips or burrs.

oldnavy · **Posted:** Sun Apr 30, 2006 9:26 pm

bhysjulien wrote:

I'm not sure if this would work on the CRD but I'll throw it out there. To eliminate chips/burrs when drilling a pistol barrel for ports use a carbide bit and spin it FAST. The carbide bit more or less powders the metal so you're left with a clean hole without any chips or burrs.

Hadn't thought about that, but I bet that is why guys that I saw doing it to a Nissan didn't bother with grease. Me, I don't keep a varity of carbide bits too expensive. I have only one carbide bit and have used it once in 15 years for one project.

Tinman · **Joined:** Mon Apr 10, 2006 10:45 am **Posts:** 308

What do you do about the filings from taping the hole for the pyro probe?? This would be great to do on the wife's libby, but don't know if I want to remove the turbo for something I never get to drive (she like's it too much). Another option is to install a time programable shut down timer. Does anyone make such an item for the CRD??

oldnavy · **Posted:** Mon May 01, 2006 4:04 pm

Tinman wrote:

What do you do about the filings from taping the hole for the pyro probe?? This would be great to do on the wife's libby, but don't know if I want to remove the turbo for something I never get to drive (she like's it too much). Another option is to install a time programable shut down timer. Does anyone make such an item for the CRD??

Most will come out with drilling and if any get in exhaust it will blow threw turbo before it starts spinning. The VNT isn't spinning at idle and vains should be wide open. See above posting on the matter.

Jeger · **Posted:** Fri May 19, 2006 7:36 pm

Could someone please explain why you want to monitor pre turbo egt rather than post turbo egt? Wouldnt you want to know how hot the air is after the turbo? I'm just not quit grasping this I guess.

CATCRD · **Posted:** Fri May 19, 2006 8:19 pm

You really want to know the temp of the gases goin into the turbo.

Ripster · **Posted:** Fri May 19, 2006 10:36 pm

Just read an article in the Diesel Power mag for cummins of how they install on pre and aft to compare
the temps. They also compare readings on both for certain types of loads. I installed mine yesterday
aft, because 1--it is less hassle, removing the exhaust was a trip to my local muffler shop, and it will
still give me a baseline on temps I am creating in the turbo. So mine is within 2 inches of the turbo.
Tomorrow I will connect to gauges and post photos of what I have. Pickup the latest Diesel Power,
better yet subscribe to it, best mag you ever saw, has the diesel Jeep in it from the 50's. Concepts
apply to all diesels in some way or the other.

Jeger · **Posted:** Fri May 19, 2006 11:06 pm

Did you happen to take any pictures of your install. Particularly the gauge mounting etc.. If so Please share.

seems it would be easy enough to once you got the probes mounted to just put a switch in to change the probe you are monitoring one pre turbo and one post turbo.

retmil46 · **Posted:** Sat May 20, 2006 12:22 am

One small problem with just blowing the shavings/powder thru the turbo on this beast - remember, we have that nice catalytic converter stuck in the pipe halfway back, and from what i saw looking at the back end of it when installing the Aeroturbine, it's the honeycomb variety - in other words, all those pieces of metal will get stuck in the converter.

TurboC5 · **Posted:** Sat May 20, 2006 12:41 am

oldnavy wrote:

Most will come out with drilling and if any get in exhaust it will blow threw turbo before it starts spinning. The VNT isn't spinning at idle and vains should be wide open. See above posting on the matter.

Are you sure the VNT vanes are in the open position at idle? It would make more sence for turbo responce if they were closed at idle. I'm looking into this issue right now for performance issues, but this is how I think it works. The VNT actuator without vacuum going to it is wide open but at idle the electric vacuum pump is pulling on the actuator. This is pulling on the diaphragm and actuating all the vanes to the closed position. Then the solenoid that is mounted right at the vacuum pump serves as the boost controller, cutting off the vacuum supply to the actuator when full boost is reached.

Ripster · **Posted:** Sat May 20, 2006 8:03 am

Jeger, they make a dual probe monitor, pick up the latest Diesel Power Mag, they have EGT 101 is the title of
the article, best I have seen in the past 5 years with real data on before and after turbo temps. I will post the
photos once the project is done, probably later on Sat afternoon, once the project is completely done.

oldnavy · **Posted:** Sat May 20, 2006 2:22 pm

TurboC5 wrote:

Are you sure the VNT vanes are in the open position at idle? It would make more sence for turbo responce if they were closed at idle. I'm looking into this issue right now for performance issues, but this is how I think it works. The VNT actuator without vacuum going to it is wide open but at idle the electric vacuum pump is pulling on the actuator. This is pulling on the diaphragm and actuating all the vanes to the closed position. Then the solenoid that is mounted right at the vacuum pump serves as the boost controller, cutting off the vacuum supply to the actuator when full boost is reached.

Well now you got me wondering, it's been a year since I had one of the little puppies in my hands and I could have it mix up. I pretty sure however it is open or partly open when off, but my memory isn't what it used to be now days. I don't mess with the stuff on a regular basis anymore is my problem.

Is there a way to monitor turbo temp?

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