Turbo started failing so I shut it down a year ago. I finally got all the parts together last week (turbo, Weeks 1&2 kits), GDE Full ECO, all new filters, oil change, etc) and put the CRD back together again at 169,000 miles. Been driving it and was completely in love with it, and a couple days ago, when slowing down, it had a odd clunk going from 3 to 2. Accelerated and it clunked hard going 2 to 3 and threw a CEL. Now it clunks every time between 2 to 3 or 3 to 2 and will not go to 4. Less than 500 miles after getting her back on the road...

Talk about a love/hate relationship...

So doing extensive research, there's potentially numerous things that could cause these problems and I could keep throwing parts at it as others have before. I read a post by Lars where they just ended up replacing the transmission with one out of a 09 dodge truck, and it cured the problems. So, I found a 2010 Dodge Ram 5.7 4x4 with 20,000 on it and the complete Transmission is $400. This works great, because I needed to upgrade my TC anyways, since I did GDE Full Eco Tune.

Questions now:

1) I gather that this is the correct transmission to directly bolts up to the 2.8, as I read that the 2011 years needed to swap some parts to work. Can anyone verify this?

2) I have replaced a tranny before on my brothers f150 about 15 years ago. Not overly hard, but does anyone have a guide for doing one on a CRD? I used some guides from members here when I did my turbo, and all the little notes that varied from service manual were very helpful.

3) since I have the transmission out, would it be good to do the transgo shift kit? If so, which one? (Full or smaller one). I have seen some posts where people didn't put the resistor in, why? Should I not? What about the big snap ring in the full kit?

4) What Wix filters do I need for tranny?

5) anything else I should look at to prolong the life of it?

6) How much +ATF4 fluid and what brand do I need to purchase?

7) should I flush the lines before putting new transmission in?

Which GDE trans tune should I get after all this? I tow 2000-3500 pound loads 4-5 times a month less than 100 miles. Otherwise just normal 70%highway/30%town driving on mostly flat roads small inclines. I am not driving a race car, so not interested in getting best 1/4 mile times.

9) How do I keep the dipstick from sliding up out of the tube?

10) Anything else I should know, or ask about the transmission I have located? The sales guy said they welded 1 boss on, and it's typical for them to do that (off collision vehicles) they have 90 day warranty and have never had a problem with their welds and do them in house.

11) I plan on putting Frankenlift on with 245/75 16's in the future, nothing drastic, but does that change anything or recommendations?

That's all I can think of right now.

Thanks,

Ben

Check out my forum post on my transmission replacement. I got a transmission from a 2015 ram 1500 with 1200 miles on it.

1- Probably have to swap transfer cases or case adapters, I needed to on my Durango (HEMI) Swap to get the rear mount to work (I actually modified the mount because I was not pulling that heavy sucker out a gain). Not sure about the '10 as mine was an '07 or '08. May need to swap out valve bodies as they changed at some point in '08-'09???? Make sure you use the HEMI TC or some other HD aftermarket.
2- Not much different, The torque converter bots are accessed by a plug near the starter. The tranny is heavy, I took the TC off first to reduce weight as I was working alone. Get the jeep high and a tranny jack is a must.
3-I would not with that few miles....Up to you. Leave the resistor out.
4- Not sure
5-
6- I used Castrol and I think I ended up with 12+ quarts.....but don't blast me if that's incorrect because I have a terrible memory.
7- Up to you, I didn't. If you find junk in the pan then I would but if the current oil/pan is relativity clean I'd leave it.
8- Check out the DIY tune thread in the CRD TECH forum. I'm running a stage 4 tune on mine with the best fuel milage ever (since new) and loads of torque. viewtopic.php?f=98&t=78418
9- Cut the end off (about 1/2") and round it with a file or grinder.

_________________
2005 Sport CRD 130k
Yeti's Stage II DIY Hot Tune
Weeks stage 1&2 EGR Delete
Florida HD billet TC [500+flbs torque]
DIY T'stat Mod {Kap's design}
'03 Ram TCM

I picked the transmission up today.

How do I know if I need to swap the valve bodies?

You don't, just swap out the solenoid pack with the one with a white connector. I used this one:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DDADAV4

Yep, my mistake. It's the solenoid pack that's different.

_________________
2005 Sport CRD 130k
Yeti's Stage II DIY Hot Tune
Weeks stage 1&2 EGR Delete
Florida HD billet TC [500+flbs torque]
DIY T'stat Mod {Kap's design}
'03 Ram TCM