Bought another KJ CRD rather than a used engine

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Wed Aug 09, 2017 1:35 am

craws010 wrote:

I am glad you still enjoy it. I really like the way the white looks. I would prefer white over the black and khaki colors that I have.
I noticed that you didn't mention rockers in your list of repairs/replacement parts. That is encouraging to know that you have not had any issues with them yet. I had actually bought new rockers/lifters and a complete timing belt kit for the first one I bought before I knew the head was cracked.
The PO of the second one had the timing belt and associated components replaced about 9K before I bought it. He also gave me a brand new stage 1 and 2 Weeks kit that he had not yet installed, along with the Samco intercooler hoses. I am glad I at least have those items already. I am expecting the torque converter replacement to hit me at some point.

You have not had to replace your turbo yet either? That's awesome!

So far no turbo or rocker problems, fingers crossed!
Get rid of the EGR ASAP! It is an engine killer! First thing I did on day one was blocked mine off with a plate. Then a few months later, the Weeks kit was developed. I was one of the first of the batch of five he built and sold.
So if you have not at least blocked it off, do so, then get that Weeks elbow kit on it.
Change oil, Change oil, Change oil using good full synthetic 5w40 weight Diesel API rated CJ4 or better oil. I also add several ounces of Marvel Mystery Oil with every oil change. I am changing every 5k now, I started out changing it out every 3k till I got it cleaned out after EGR delete.
I add a mix of non-synthetic 2 cycle motor oil, Diesel Kleen, and Marvel Mystery Oil to fuel tank at every fill up, keep CP3 and injectors well lubricated and fuel clean.

Need help, just ask!
Where you at in NG?

craws010 · **Posted:** Wed Aug 09, 2017 10:38 am

GordnadoCRD wrote:

craws010 wrote:

WWDiesel wrote:

Also, ... and this is very important... that it is RATED SPECIFICALLY FOR DIESEL ENGINES.
Super duper miracle oil for turbocharged late model gasoline/flex-fuel engines, if used in diesel engines, WILL cause premature wear because it cannot contain the carbon (soot) load. It falls out of suspension, and becomes a very fine abrasive polishing compound. A gasoline engine does not need so much of that. It's primary bad stuff function is to suspend solvent load. Diesel engines don't need so much of that. There are some oils that are made for both. Just make sure, whatever you use, that it is RATED SPECIFICALLY FOR DIESEL ENGINES.[/color]

Thanks for this great advice. I have owned a few VW TDIs with the PD motors and learned the importance of using oil designed for diesel engines and meeting the proper specs. The PO of my "running" KJ left me with two jugs of Mobil 1 0w40 and a M1 filter. I am happy to see that he followed the manufacturers recommendation for the oil on one hand. But I will likely be using that in another vehicle and picking up one of the recommended oils designed for diesel engines.

craws010 · **Posted:** Wed Aug 09, 2017 10:43 am

Bushman5 wrote:

saaaay, what does the turbo look like on the donor engine? :wink:

It looks like toast :cry:

Plenty of shaft play.

craws010 · **Posted:** Wed Aug 09, 2017 11:18 am

WWDiesel wrote:

craws010 wrote:

I am glad you still enjoy it. I really like the way the white looks. I would prefer white over the black and khaki colors that I have.
I noticed that you didn't mention rockers in your list of repairs/replacement parts. That is encouraging to know that you have not had any issues with them yet. I had actually bought new rockers/lifters and a complete timing belt kit for the first one I bought before I knew the head was cracked.
The PO of the second one had the timing belt and associated components replaced about 9K before I bought it. He also gave me a brand new stage 1 and 2 Weeks kit that he had not yet installed, along with the Samco intercooler hoses. I am glad I at least have those items already. I am expecting the torque converter replacement to hit me at some point.

You have not had to replace your turbo yet either? That's awesome!

So far no turbo or rocker problems, fingers crossed!
Get rid of the EGR ASAP! It is an engine killer! First thing I did on day one was blocked mine off with a plate. Then a few months later, the Weeks kit was developed. I was one of the first of the batch of five he built and sold.
So if you have not at least blocked it off, do so, then get that Weeks elbow kit on it.
Change oil, Change oil, Change oil using good full synthetic 5w40 weight Diesel API rated CJ4 or better oil. I also add several ounces of Marvel Mystery Oil with every oil change. I am changing every 5k now, I started out changing it out every 3k till I got it cleaned out after EGR delete.
I add a mix of non-synthetic 2 cycle motor oil, Diesel Kleen, and Marvel Mystery Oil to fuel tank at every fill up, keep CP3 and injectors well lubricated and fuel clean.

Need help, just ask!
Where you at in NG?

Thanks much for all the great advice and offer to help. I really appreciate it.
I am either just south of Blue Ridge in Cherry Log, or down in Acworth depending on the day.
Let me know if you ever make your way up here. I would love to see your Jeep. Plenty of off road opportunities up here in the mountains as you most likely know.

craws010 · **Posted:** Mon Aug 14, 2017 9:53 pm

Got the PCM back from GDE today. Jeep fired right up and runs great even with 1 yr old fuel.
The only thing that I can find wrong is the front passenger window doesn't always work.
I will be installing the Weeks Kit and changing all fluids next.

geordi · **Posted:** Tue Aug 15, 2017 6:38 pm

Check the API service seal on those bottles of 0w-40... I would highly doubt they are diesel rated, as it is extremely difficult to find diesel rated 0w-40 in the southern parts of the USA. Even in the north it is rare, most people use 5w-40 Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck or Shell Rotella T6 5w-40 or Mobil 1 Delvac ESP (NOT Delvac 1300) 5w-40. All are good options. Sometimes Chevron Delo is available as a synthetic, but you have to look carefully at the ratings again.

Glad to hear it is up and running!

craws010 · **Posted:** Tue Aug 15, 2017 8:05 pm

geordi wrote:

Check the API service seal on those bottles of 0w-40... I would highly doubt they are diesel rated, as it is extremely difficult to find diesel rated 0w-40 in the southern parts of the USA. Even in the north it is rare, most people use 5w-40 Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck or Shell Rotella T6 5w-40 or Mobil 1 Delvac ESP (NOT Delvac 1300) 5w-40. All are good options. Sometimes Chevron Delo is available as a synthetic, but you have to look carefully at the ratings again.

Glad to hear it is up and running!

Absolutely. I like your oil recommendations. I plan to use the Mobile 1 in my daughter's gasser Passat and the Polaris. I used to grab 5 gallons of the Mobil Delvac ESP 5w40 when Mobil offered a rebate on it and Pep Boys had it in stock. It seems to be getting more difficult to find now. I used it in the tractors, my Grand CRD, the F350 and the Passat TDI. I have been using Rotella T6 5w40 lately since it is easy to find and it meets JASO requirements for the Japanese motorcycles too. I can pretty much use the T6 5w40 in all the vehicles and I understand that it has a bit more zinc/ZDDP than the Mobile Delvac ESP. Neither of these oils state that they meet the MB 229.51 spec for the Grand CRD. But I am pretty sure that it won't damage the DPF if it is recommended for newer diesels.
I will likely use the T6 in the KJ if that has worked well for others. I certainly won't be using the Mobil 1 0w40.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Tue Aug 15, 2017 9:44 pm

I would never run a "0" weight oil in anything in this part of the country!
5w-40 Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel oil is ok, it is rated CJ-4 or better.
Royal Purple also has a fully diesel rated oil in 15w-40 that is good for the southern states where temperatures get up in the high 90's and even over 100 at times, but it is pricey... :roll:

craws010 · **Posted:** Tue Aug 15, 2017 10:35 pm

WWDiesel wrote:

I would never run a "0" weight oil in anything in this part of the country!
5w-40 Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel oil is ok, it is rated CJ-4 or better.
Royal Purple also has a fully diesel rated oil in 15w-40 that is good for the southern states where temperatures get up in the high 90's and even over 100 at times, but it is pricey... :roll:

Indeed! Royal Purple is too rich for my blood.

GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Wed Aug 16, 2017 2:34 am

craws010 wrote:

geordi wrote:

Check the API service seal on those bottles of 0w-40... I would highly doubt they are diesel rated, as it is extremely difficult to find diesel rated 0w-40 in the southern parts of the USA. Even in the north it is rare, most people use 5w-40 Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck or Shell Rotella T6 5w-40 or Mobil 1 Delvac ESP (NOT Delvac 1300) 5w-40. All are good options. Sometimes Chevron Delo is available as a synthetic, but you have to look carefully at the ratings again.

Glad to hear it is up and running!

Absolutely. I like your oil recommendations. I plan to use the Mobile 1 in my daughter's gasser Passat and the Polaris. I used to grab 5 gallons of the Mobil Delvac ESP 5w40 when Mobil offered a rebate on it and Pep Boys had it in stock. It seems to be getting more difficult to find now. I used it in the tractors, my Grand CRD, the F350 and the Passat TDI. I have been using Rotella T6 5w40 lately since it is easy to find and it meets JASO requirements for the Japanese motorcycles too. I can pretty much use the T6 5w40 in all the vehicles and I understand that it has a bit more zinc/ZDDP than the Mobile Delvac ESP. Neither of these oils state that they meet the MB 229.51 spec for the Grand CRD. But I am pretty sure that it won't damage the DPF if it is recommended for newer diesels.
I will likely use the T6 in the KJ if that has worked well for others. I certainly won't be using the Mobil 1 0w40.

The only reason it doesn't meet that spec is because that spec is written for the specific weight of 0w-30. Give it some time to warm up rather than just jumping in and romping on it, and T6 will be fine.

geordi · **Posted:** Wed Aug 16, 2017 8:28 pm

I would think the MB spec also is looking at various factors related to possible burnoff of contaminants (fuel / water) and how that and the oil might affect the DPF... I'd be more interested in a chip or something that would affect the DPF right out from under and onto a shelf in the garage.

GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Wed Aug 16, 2017 9:43 pm

This is good news. Mercedes wrote their spec as Multi Grade, so it applies to either 0W-30 or 5W-30

Shell's latest release
http://www.shell.com/motorist/oils-lubricants/helix-for-cars/helix-fully-synthetic/shell-helix-ultra-ect-5w-30.html
http://www.shell.com/motorist/oils-lubricants/helix-for-cars/helix-fully-synthetic/shell-helix-hx8-synthetic-5w-30.html
http://www.shell.com/motorist/oils-lubricants/helix-for-cars/helix-fully-synthetic/shell-helix-ultra-0w-30.html
http://www.shell.com/motorist/oils-lubricants/helix-for-cars/helix-fully-synthetic/shell-helix-ultra-5w-30.html
http://www.shell.com/motorist/oils-lubricants/helix-for-cars/helix-fully-synthetic/shell-helix-ultra-diesel-5w-40.html
...ETC...

And Now for Shell's very very very best expressly specified for the
EcoDiesel...

Yeah. I know what it says, but that's what the newly merged Shell-Pennzoil recommends for your DODGE (US)

craws010 · **Posted:** Wed Aug 16, 2017 10:09 pm

GordnadoCRD wrote:

This is good news. Mercedes wrote their spec as Multi Grade, so it applies to either 0W-30 or 5W-30

Shell's latest release
http://www.shell.com/motorist/oils-lubricants/helix-for-cars/helix-fully-synthetic/shell-helix-ultra-ect-5w-30.html
http://www.shell.com/motorist/oils-lubricants/helix-for-cars/helix-fully-synthetic/shell-helix-hx8-synthetic-5w-30.html
http://www.shell.com/motorist/oils-lubricants/helix-for-cars/helix-fully-synthetic/shell-helix-ultra-0w-30.html
http://www.shell.com/motorist/oils-lubricants/helix-for-cars/helix-fully-synthetic/shell-helix-ultra-5w-30.html
http://www.shell.com/motorist/oils-lubricants/helix-for-cars/helix-fully-synthetic/shell-helix-ultra-diesel-5w-40.html
...ETC...

Wow... I wasn't aware of the Shell Helix line. But it looks like the Ultra ECT 5W-30 is the only one that meets the 229.51 spec. I hate to use a 30 weight oil this far south.

GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Wed Aug 16, 2017 10:44 pm

That's for the VMM and Bluetec 3.0 V6's

It is unnecessary for the R428 CRD's, and my top end is new, but the short block has 145K, so the improved pressure holding film strength of the 40 viscosity worries me less than would 30wt.

thermorex · **Posted:** Thu Aug 17, 2017 4:18 pm

GordnadoCRD wrote:

This is good news. Mercedes wrote their spec as Multi Grade, so it applies to either 0W-30 or 5W-30

Shell's latest release
http://www.shell.com/motorist/oils-lubricants/helix-for-cars/helix-fully-synthetic/shell-helix-ultra-ect-5w-30.html
http://www.shell.com/motorist/oils-lubricants/helix-for-cars/helix-fully-synthetic/shell-helix-hx8-synthetic-5w-30.html
http://www.shell.com/motorist/oils-lubricants/helix-for-cars/helix-fully-synthetic/shell-helix-ultra-0w-30.html
http://www.shell.com/motorist/oils-lubricants/helix-for-cars/helix-fully-synthetic/shell-helix-ultra-5w-30.html
http://www.shell.com/motorist/oils-lubricants/helix-for-cars/helix-fully-synthetic/shell-helix-ultra-diesel-5w-40.html
...ETC...

And Now for Shell's very very very best expressly specified for the
EcoDiesel...

Yeah. I know what it says, but that's what the newly merged Shell-Pennzoil recommends for your DODGE (US)

Ram at least had a tsb a while back that changed the "stock" oil trucks come with as new to Rotella t6. Also, most dealers are using Rotella t6 for EcoDiesel oil change, per new tsb. Euro L is still approved. T6 is much cheaper.

I think the change was also due to dealers screwing up the oil changes and using the pennzoil for gasser in EcoDiesel. Euro L is a diesel oil, hemis use gasser pennzoil platinum (no euro L). I've heard it plenty times in the ram forum.

craws010 · **Posted:** Sat Aug 19, 2017 11:41 pm

I removed all the EGR equipment and installed the Weeks Stage 1 and 2 kits last night. It felt almost therapeutic to remove all that crap.
The intake manifold looked much better than I expected it to at 179K. There was some buildup of soot, but very little compared to some of the pics that I have seen on this site. I can only assume that it was cleaned already at some point.
Now to figure out how best to block off the CCV inlet into the intake. I remember installing a kit on the WK that included a machined aluminum plug for the air intake tube.

geordi · **Posted:** Sun Aug 20, 2017 12:35 am

The CCV is the puck on the top back of the intake - you NEED to have it connected to the intake of the turbo, you cannot block it or cap it - you will blow the rear main seal. The vacuum pump exhausts into the engine spaces, which is where most of the airflow from the CCV comes from.

If you want to install a provent or other oil separation cannister, that is one thing, but the "elephant hose" has been determined to be a bad idea and certainly will be a smelly mod if you did it.

The EGR pipe inlet into the intake near the intake manifold should have been eliminated with the Weeks stage 1 kit, and the coolant loop eliminated with the stage 2 kit.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sun Aug 20, 2017 7:01 am

craws010 wrote:

I removed all the EGR equipment and installed the Weeks Stage 1 and 2 kits last night. It felt almost therapeutic to remove all that crap.
The intake manifold looked much better than I expected it to at 179K. There was some buildup of soot, but very little compared to some of the pics that I have seen on this site. I can only assume that it was cleaned already at some point.
Now to figure out how best to block off the CCV inlet into the intake. I remember installing a kit on the WK that included a machined aluminum plug for the air intake tube.

The engine and the CCV system requires the vacuum or suction supplied by the turbo inlet! So it needs to stay connected to the turbo intake boot!
You can add a ProVent coalescing filter in-line between the CCV puck and the inlet boot to capture and remove the oil and / or any liquids coming from the puck.
Many members of this forum have added a ProVent model 200 to their Jeep CRD and most feel it should have been on there from the factory.

See/read this thread for a full understanding of why it needs to remain connected to the inlet boot.:> viewtopic.php?f=5&t=80491

See this pdf for full info on the ProVent 200:> https://www.mann-hummel.com/fileadmin/u ... n_2013.pdf

This is what an installed ProVent looks like tucked over in the corner of the engine compartment!

craws010 · **Posted:** Sun Aug 20, 2017 10:06 pm

geordi wrote:

The CCV is the puck on the top back of the intake - you NEED to have it connected to the intake of the turbo, you cannot block it or cap it - you will blow the rear main seal. The vacuum pump exhausts into the engine spaces, which is where most of the airflow from the CCV comes from.

If you want to install a provent or other oil separation cannister, that is one thing, but the "elephant hose" has been determined to be a bad idea and certainly will be a smelly mod if you did it.

The EGR pipe inlet into the intake near the intake manifold should have been eliminated with the Weeks stage 1 kit, and the coolant loop eliminated with the stage 2 kit.

Thanks geordi. I certainly wouldn't even think of blocking the flow from the CCV puck for the obvious reasons. But I was considering capping off the hole in the inlet tube to the turbo and venting the CCV to a ProVent and then out to the rear of the vehicle like I did with my WK.
But it sounds like you are recommending that I continue back to the inlet hose to turbo after the ProVent. I will certainly go that route if that is what has worked best and has proven to be the most effective solution.
Thanks again for the feedback.

craws010 · **Posted:** Sun Aug 20, 2017 10:14 pm

WWDiesel wrote:

The engine and the CCV system requires the vacuum or suction supplied by the turbo inlet! So it needs to stay connected to the turbo intake boot!
You can add a ProVent coalescing filter in-line between the CCV puck and the inlet boot to capture and remove the oil and / or any liquids coming from the puck.
Many members of this forum have added a ProVent model 200 to their Jeep CRD and most feel it should have been on there from the factory.

See/read this thread for a full understanding of why it needs to remain connected to the inlet boot.:> viewtopic.php?f=5&t=80491

See this pdf for full info on the ProVent 200:> https://www.mann-hummel.com/fileadmin/u ... n_2013.pdf

Thanks WWDiesel. That link is very helpful and the pic is great. Looks factory! I am going to route back to the intake after the ProVent as you and geordi have suggested.
How often are you emptying the filter housing or are you directing it back to the engine?

Bought another KJ CRD rather than a used engine

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