I have a 2005 Liberty Diesel. Over the last year and half I have replaced the following, heater core, thermostat, turbo, water pump, and added a switch for the auxiliary vicous (sp) heater (mechanic said the pcm was not telling it to turn on). Mechanic checked all control doors on the heater and I am still not getting heat in cab. AC is working great. I just got this back from the mechanic could there be an air pocket in water lines? The heater lines are hot after vehicle runs for awhile. I am stumped. Thanks for any help

Kelly

If both heater core lines are hot and about the same degree of hot then coolant is going into/out of the heater core. There is no "valve" controlling heater core coolant flow rather the amount of heat in the cabin is controlled by the HVAC "hot/cold" switch on the dash which controls "blend" doors inside the HVAC system. Your mechanic's opinion notwithstanding the only reason I can see for not getting heat, with both heater core lines hot, is a blend door malfunction.

If the 2 heater lines are not close to the same in temp it's possible the heater core is clogged. It can be reverse flushed; undo both lines; gently back flush core with a hose using the "outflow" line (not the viscous heater line).

I have no clue why you added a viscous heater switch. If it's not turning on it could be 1) bad relay; 2) bad temp signal to PCM/ECM, whichever controls on/off; 3) bad electric circuit (ex. bad ground); or 4) viscous clutch shot. In any case the viscous heater is a non-essential component that doesn't do anything but provide minimal extra heat during warm up; not worth it in hot climes and only minimal help in cold ones.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

What is your actual coolant temperature?
Is the temp gauge needle getting up near the 12:00 position?
Is it getting up above 1/4 on the gauge?

If the coolant is getting up to proper temperature, then the only possibilities are a clogged heater core or a bad air-blend door.

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U.S. Army Retired

Temp gauge reading OK. I will attempt to flush the core, but it was put in new recently

Kelly

Maybe whoever put in the new heater core didnt connect the linkage or whatever to the blend door?

highlighted in purple

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U.S. Army Retired

If heater core is new and both hoses are about the same temp, feel is close enough, then I'd bet on blend door problem.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

Also could be the selector switch not sending a signal to the blend door actuator?

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Supporting Vendor and Moderator of LOST
05 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited
Ironman Springs/Bilstein/Shocks
Yeti StgIV Hot Tune
Week's BatteryTray
No FCV/EGR
Samcos/ProVent
SunCoast/Transgo
Carter Intank-pmp
2mic.Sec.Fuel Filter
Flowmaster/NO CAT
V6Airbox/noVH
GM11 Bld.fan/HDClutch
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98 Dodge Cummins 24 Valve

Good point.

This pic is the back side of the HVAC controls. Item #3 is the connector for the blend door control.

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U.S. Army Retired