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 Post subject: Is it termal?
PostPosted: Thu May 18, 2017 12:44 pm 
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Location: New Market,MD
Liberty shut off would not restart!Towed it home My GDE code reader has P2294 P0564 P0589 P0299 P0504 P0093 X 3 P0480 P0460 P0110 P0105.any help would be great. and thank in advance!

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 Post subject: Re: Is it termal?
PostPosted: Thu May 18, 2017 1:45 pm 
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Had any work done to it recently?

First thing I would do is check all the fuses and the ASD relay.

Several of those codes correspond to TSB 18-007-05.
See here: http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11587

But you would have to bring your jeep to a dealer to get the ECM reflashed, which would then cause you to loose your GDE tune.
If you still have the GDE programmer you should be able to reload it.
Maybe contact GDE first?

The one that really sticks out is the P2294.
That code means a open circuit at the fuel rail pressure solenoid, at the back of the fuel rail. If that solenoid is unplugged or has a broken wire, the engine will crank but not start.

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 Post subject: Re: Is it termal?
PostPosted: Thu May 18, 2017 3:04 pm 
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The timing belt was done at the dealership.The Liberty has been sitting for more than a year I just did the codes read the codes today.

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 Post subject: Re: Is it termal?
PostPosted: Thu May 18, 2017 3:06 pm 
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The timing belt was done at the dealership only has 6000 since the belt was changed.The Liberty has been sitting for more than a year I just did the codes read the codes today.

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 Post subject: Re: Is it termal?
PostPosted: Thu May 18, 2017 4:10 pm 
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Does the starter spin the engine over when trying to start?
Any odd or strange noises when it spins over?

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 Post subject: Re: Is it termal?
PostPosted: Thu May 18, 2017 4:55 pm 
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That many codes, I would start with good power - Check the battery, if it is dead then likely your alternator pulley is no longer functioning (the pulley is a special clutched type) and if you have heard a "chirping bird" under the hood, then that is the key that the pulley was on the way out.

You can't trust the battery light on the dash, but if you still have the original alternator (Denso Japanese model) then try the pulley replacement first. The Denso alternators are very very good and very rarely have any issues, it is the pulley that goes bad.

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 Post subject: Re: Is it termal?
PostPosted: Thu May 18, 2017 6:28 pm 
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Cranks over really well,no strange noises. battery charged up real well.

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 Post subject: Re: Is it termal?
PostPosted: Thu May 18, 2017 10:21 pm 
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coach9 wrote:
Liberty shut off would not restart!Towed it home My GDE code reader has P2294 P0564 P0589 P0299 P0504 P0093 X 3 P0480 P0460 P0110 P0105.any help would be great. and thank in advance!
It sounds like you have a wiring issue somewhere. Here are the code definitions:

P2294 - Fuel Pressure Solenoid Open Circuit
P0564 - Speed Control Switch #1 Signal Circuit Plausibility
P0589 - Speed Control Switch #2 Signal Circuit Plausibility
P0299 - Boost Pressure Sensor Positive Deviation
P0504 - Brake Switch Signal Circuits Plausibility With Redundant Contact
P0093 - Fuel System Leak Detected - Large Leak (in other words, it's unable to build up enough pressure in the fuel rail)
P0480 - Fan 1 Control Circuit
P0460 - Fuel Level Sensor Circuit
P0110 - Intake Air Temp Sensor Circuit
P0105 - Inlet Pressure Sensor Signal Plausibility


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 Post subject: Re: Is it termal?
PostPosted: Thu May 18, 2017 10:42 pm 
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0093 is the code you get when there is air entering the fuel system, not anything with the rail. The usual places are at the heater plug if you haven't upgraded it to the new 2nd generation style (big blue plug on the right on the filter) or at the quick connects back by the tank.

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 Post subject: Re: Is it termal?
PostPosted: Thu May 18, 2017 11:36 pm 
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Doesn't it also throw P0093 if the fuel pressure solenoid isn't functioning?


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 Post subject: Re: Is it termal?
PostPosted: Fri May 19, 2017 2:10 am 
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I would start with the open circuit on the Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor.

If it's unplugged, plug it in.

If it's not unplugged, then you need to find out where the wire has failed. If the wires pass pin tests, then replace the sensor.

This has to work before any of the others can. Without it the ECM is 'blind'.

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