Stigan Turbo initial install review.

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Thu May 18, 2017 9:56 pm

I picked up a CRD on cragislist that had a bad turbo back in november? december? sometime like that, it was cold and wintery. Its been sitting since then waiting for me to get around to working on it. I debated back and forth on turbo options before I decided on the stigan based on price point. I bought it off of amazon with prime and as such it came fairly quickly.

The turbo seems pretty good quality in terms of fit and finish. Nothing looks cheap or poopy about it, dimensionally it fits in perfectly.

I got some metric studs at my local hardware store for the oil drain pipe bolts. I installed new copper crush washers on the banjo bolt, and new seals on the return hose. The studs did make it a little harder to get the turbo oil drain pipe back on.

You basically have to get the return oil line off in order to unbolt the turbo, this also means if you install studs for the turbo oil return line that it will be harder to get to the nuts that hold the turbo it. It's possible, but harder to do with the studs in.

I used a couple of new copper nuts, a couple of the nuts stuck to the studs and became bolts, so those were reused.

Overall it took about 3 hours to install. Not too bad all things consider, but I would not call it an easy job. I think the studs saved me time and frustration putting it back together.

Since the oil turbo failed with a broken shaft massive amounts of oil were able to fill up the exhaust. After I got it running the pooled up oil started making its way out - and making a massive smoke cloud. It took come effort of warming the engine up - getting oil to start dripping out, and shutting it off before it blew too much smoke. I got out at least a quart this way and then went for a drive at 9pm when it was dark to blow out the rest. After a short drive at operating temp the oil was finished burning out. I think I made it much better by getting the oil to drain out before the drive. It really can make a massive amount of smoke - been there before.

So with the oil smoke cleared out it was now blowing pretty good diesel smoke. It would eventually boost but was way too slow off the line. It was also triggering a 0299 underboost and a 1250 vac control circuit open. I had heard and seen the other photos where the stigan linkage was incorrect and caused underboost, I was not looking forward to trying to adjust the linkage or swap actuators around from the old turbo.

I decided to pump the actuator with my hand held vacumn pump. After confirming that it was indeed moving and that none of my lines had a leak I decided to watch the "Desired Boost" vs "Actual Boost" on my DRBIII went for a short drive with me riding shotgun and watched the values track. While the actual lagged desired it usually ended up matching with a second or so. When we finally had a chance to do a full throttle pull we noticed it spooled right away and the power you would expect was there. The black smoke was also gone. I believe the actuator was just stuck and took me pumping it by hand in order to free it up.

Managed to snag an emissions testing appointment later that day so we took it on a good highway drive, after getting it up to 85+ for a mile we pulled off at an exit ramp and then got back on the interstate for another high speed pull, this time it blew LOTS of black diesel smoke. But all subsequent pulls the smoke was gone. I figure it needed a good hot burn to really get some trapped junk cleared out.

So thats all, for now. Gotta drive it some more in the next few days and make sure it seems ok. Then my dad will be driving the CRD out to california from colorado.

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Thu May 18, 2017 10:21 pm

https://youtu.be/dk13pVOjaxA

video showing oil blowing out

mass-hole · **Posted:** Thu May 18, 2017 11:40 pm

Yeah I thought one of the reviews on amazon mentioned needing to adjust the vnt actuator as well.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Fri May 19, 2017 2:25 am

LMFAO! Ah.. Memories! Mine had yours beat on volume coming out though.

You probably already checked, but JIC.. The CAC can hold nearly a gallon in the section below the bottom of the output port.. and dang is it hard to get cleaned out.

Main difference was my failed turbo was Stigan, and the new one is Sasquatch.

And I blew the smoke out on US HWY 97, about 6PM and vector control could take a week off after that. I also overfilled the crankcase, and it smoked pretty bad for another day. It's settled down now though.

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Sat May 20, 2017 1:51 am

Since my first post was a little dry here are some pictures:

Ugh, got it on the driveway:

Pine needles and leaves to the rescue!

Mileage:

More oil blowing out:

This is even what a tiny amount of smoke looked like..........Think smoke so intense and big that it could cloud a football stadium and not let you see the field. Thats what it would have been like if I hadn't kept it cool and blowing out oil.

http://colorado4wheel.com/images/libby/IMG_0511.MOV

GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Sat May 20, 2017 2:08 am

OOOH! Sliders! and Pinstriping!?!?!? Daaamn.. Now I am jealous! :lol:

OBTW your mileage pic only makes sense to Aussies. (and our S African friend). :ROTFL:

Truthfully, I'd be willing to bet that the Stigan turbos, maintained properly, and driven sensibly would live a pretty decent life.

I can't speak for anyone else, but somehow I've just never managed to bring those two things together very long with any of my personal vehicles, and there have been many.

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Mon May 22, 2017 7:34 pm

Well Jeep is cleaned up and ready to roll. My dad is driving it back to california tomorrow.

I used an eraser wheel to remove the pinstriping that was pretty rough looking. Also used a heat gun to darken some faded plastic. Took off the rock rails to use em on my KJ CRD.

Eraser wheel making short work of pinstrip:

Much better!

Cleaner, but each bumper has a dent in the corner, need to get the heat gun out for that.

Rock rails to go on my primary CRD:

Got the crappy looking dealer emblem off, then used heat gun on the faded plastic. Took the eraser wheel to the glue remains to get it off.

Before:

After:

End of the bumper pushed out after heat gun and pressure from the inside:

Bumper is better, paint is still rough:

Other side: I wish I had gotten better close up photos to show the change, much improvement!

I also replaced the front bumper with one I had sitting around. It was white and undamaged other than a few scratches, the bumper that was on there had each corner torn up a little. So I finally got a chance to use that white bumper for a Jeep. Very lucky on that one.

Trailer hooked up for drive back to socal.

All three CRDs together, probably for the last time.

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Mon May 22, 2017 7:35 pm

Heat gun for restoring the plastic:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HIuZdMaUlXU

Eraser wheel for removing decals:

https://youtu.be/RxBSheIWG1U

Napheus · **Joined:** Fri Aug 25, 2006 5:39 pm **Posts:** 57

I'm going with the Stigan option as well, although it was hard to not pull the trigger on the Sasquatch unit. Money was the deciding factor here too. I got mine for $425 and some change after using my accumulated cash back. So, do we need to adjust the actuator to match the factory length, or swap the new one out for the one off the old turbo? Most important, are you still happy with your choice of the Stigan?

WolverineFW · **Posted:** Sun Jul 02, 2017 3:41 pm

That heat gun trick is slick.

Sent from my SM-N910W8 using Tapatalk

Dez · **Posted:** Sun Jul 02, 2017 9:37 pm

Been through two Stigan turbos, now Stigan won't warranty the 2nd one!!! First one started puking oil after the first 500 miles. Stigan did not want to warranty the first one because it was not installed by a licensed mechanic now the warrantied turbo is leaking oil into intake instead of exhaust at 5,000 miles. Now I'm going to have a genuine Garrett cartridge installed in the failed Stigan.

Napheus · **Joined:** Fri Aug 25, 2006 5:39 pm **Posts:** 57

Dez wrote:

Been through two Stigan turbos, now Stigan won't warranty the 2nd one!!! First one started puking oil after the first 500 miles. Stigan did not want to warranty the first one because it was not installed by a licensed mechanic now the warrantied turbo is leaking oil into intake instead of exhaust at 5,000 miles. Now I'm going to have a genuine Garrett cartridge installed in the failed Stigan.

So how did you talk them into honoring the warranty on the first one that wasn't installed by a licensed mechanic? ASE certification doesn't mean the mechanic/technician knows what they are doing. There are thousands at dealerships all over the country proving that point daily.

Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

MtnClimber · **Posted:** Mon Jul 03, 2017 3:46 pm

I'd also be interested in knowing how the Stigan Turbo is holding up as I need a new turbo as my existjng on just imploded. So do I get the Stigan or just go with the Sasquatch Turbo??

weeks101 · **Joined:** Mon Jul 30, 2012 3:29 pm **Posts:** 747

We offer a 1 year warranty on ours. No failures to date.

Dez · **Posted:** Tue Jul 04, 2017 12:42 am

Napheus wrote:

Dez wrote:

Been through two Stigan turbos, now Stigan won't warranty the 2nd one!!! First one started puking oil after the first 500 miles. Stigan did not want to warranty the first one because it was not installed by a licensed mechanic now the warrantied turbo is leaking oil into intake instead of exhaust at 5,000 miles. Now I'm going to have a genuine Garrett cartridge installed in the failed Stigan.

So how did you talk them into honoring the warranty on the first one that wasn't installed by a licensed mechanic? ASE certification doesn't mean the mechanic/technician knows what they are doing. There are thousands at dealerships all over the country proving that point daily.

Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

PO Put in both Stigan turbos, im not sure how he managed it. We didn't know for sure the second turbo was bad until after I purchased it. Im not willing to try another stigan turbo even under warranty!! The current stigan turbo has leaking metallicy silver oil coming from the compressor side. Pulling the turbo later this week and have it to the turboshop to see if they are even willing to use the chinese housings. If not I will either find a genuine garrett and have it rebuilt ($400 to have it rebuilt) or maybe Sasquatch turbo and be done forever.

Napheus · **Joined:** Fri Aug 25, 2006 5:39 pm **Posts:** 57

Where does one even get these rebuilt?

mass-hole · **Posted:** Tue Jul 04, 2017 10:48 am

Napheus wrote:

Where does one even get these rebuilt?

when I was surfing the euro turbo sites the other day I saw a lot of rebuild kits that were supposedly "genuine." It had bearings and seals in them.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

TKB4 · **Posted:** Sun Jul 09, 2017 12:20 pm

I have seen threads recently that stated there was not a rebuild kit available for our garrett turbo, or at least not one owner can do due to extremely small tolerances. Looks like they can be rebuilt by someone if there is a rebuild kit offered maybe its not from Garrett.

Dez · **Posted:** Tue Jul 25, 2017 9:18 pm

Dez wrote:

Napheus wrote:

Dez wrote:

Been through two Stigan turbos, now Stigan won't warranty the 2nd one!!! First one started puking oil after the first 500 miles. Stigan did not want to warranty the first one because it was not installed by a licensed mechanic now the warrantied turbo is leaking oil into intake instead of exhaust at 5,000 miles. Now I'm going to have a genuine Garrett cartridge installed in the failed Stigan.

So how did you talk them into honoring the warranty on the first one that wasn't installed by a licensed mechanic? ASE certification doesn't mean the mechanic/technician knows what they are doing. There are thousands at dealerships all over the country proving that point daily.

Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

PO Put in both Stigan turbos, im not sure how he managed it. We didn't know for sure the second turbo was bad until after I purchased it. Im not willing to try another stigan turbo even under warranty!! The current stigan turbo has leaking metallicy silver oil coming from the compressor side. Pulling the turbo later this week and have it to the turboshop to see if they are even willing to use the chinese housings. If not I will either find a genuine garrett and have it rebuilt ($400 to have it rebuilt) or maybe Sasquatch turbo and be done forever.

Alright guys, Maybe I was a little hard on the stigan turbo.... After removing the second Stigan (Previous owner installed) I noticed something not right. The previous owner opted to not use the copper washers. Might not seem like a big deal but it cuts off oil volume flow to the turbo without them. May not be the root cause however the compressor wheel was not center on the shaft. I have a OEM Garrett center section now installed into the stigan housing. Hope this one lasts longer

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Sat Aug 05, 2017 5:25 pm

Well thus far the Stigan turbo had 2 trips from CO to CA, so over 5,000 miles. So far no issues.

Between the 3 CRDs here I have to say CRD #2 with 55k on it with OEM turbo is the quickest, CRD #1 with 175k with OEM turbo is second quickest, and CRD #3 with 145k with stigan has the most lag, however I never got to drive the Jeep before the turbo failed so I have no idea how it compares. That said its not signifcantly different, but you can feel it when you switch between them all.

CRD#1 has new rockers and I have had for a decade, CRD#3 has probably had plenty of EGR use which might explain it being less peppy. EGR is tuned off now.

Stigan Turbo initial install review.

Who is online