Hey guys,
I've been viewing this forum for years. Recently I decided to get more involved!

This is my second CRD, the first one got totalled in a ditch this past winter on a mountain road RIP

So here's the story, bought a nearly identical Libby so I could salvage my lift and a bunch of parts.
Shortly after becoming the new owner the thing developing some pretty bad bent rocker symptoms.

so time to open it up:


yuck


there's the source of the noise


I had 7 rockers that looked like this

my best guess is that the previous owner wasn't too attentive to good oil changes and maintenance
timing belt looked original (190,000 KM)

This isn't a write up, but I may make one because I never found much exhaustive information about replacing the rockers.

placing the valve cover / manifold back on was a nightmare solo. I definitely recommend having a friend to help place the cover, it also helps having a friend to counter torque the cams too.

I found that getting the cover on carefully still would knock one or two rockers aside. I carefully lifted up the cover from the exhaust side and rest the rockers before tightening it. That seemed to work best.



now here's an experiment. I used the 2.5" adaptor on the FCV. Brazed it to the intake manifold and used a 2.5" 90 degree bend. If you have the money I would definitely recommend getting the Week's elbow kit. This is my own personal risk. I gave some extra seal with a bit of JB around the circumference. So far it's help up well.


Here's another experiment. A 2.25-2.5" 90 degree elbow from the turbo inlet into a 45 degree aluminum bend and a cone filter.

This obviously deleted the MAF and the inlet for the PCV.
so I'm trying a modified version of the EHM by using an oil catch can. (eventually I'll just man up and get a Provent).


This is what I really spent my money on.

HDS thermostat from Edmonton, AB, Canada
This is an incredibly well made piece of metal. Installed easy. so far works incredibly well, and Jeff is a pleasure to deal with.
the only complaint I can make is that it makes the rest of my engine bay look like crap! It's the shiniest, nicest thing in there. It's barely worthy.

Updates will come as I put some K's on it.

needless to say, after doing the rocker arms, It fired up and sounded smoother than I could've imagined. I think I forgot what a proper sounding diesel can be like. I've got power again! no smoke!

and deleting the EGR and FCV was bliss! yanking parts out and leaving them in the scrap bin! wonderful.

Let me know your thoughts.

Great writeup!
Just curious, what did you do about the DTC's set when doing away with (disconnecting) the MAF sensor and installing the cone intake filter?

I added a big cone filter a couple years back; even added the MAF in the intake pipe adaptor, but alas it kept tripping the P0101 code on me for some odd reason.
Maybe it saw too much air flow? Anyway, went back to OEM box filter with gasser intake snorkel...

This is my inlet setup.



With provisions for proper provent CCV hose routing and the airbox inlet pressure sensor.
No MAF sensor. Yes I get the p0101 code but I don't care and there are no performance issues.
If you don't have the inlet pressure sensor connected you will have issues with reduced power and limited rpm range.

Note.
If you have a GDE tune you can eliminate both the MAF and inlet pressure sensor with no codes and no performance issues.

http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x82/miller_man_89/20170525_143956.jpg

Hello, gtmiller:

It appears that you are missing the little folded steel bracket that the tab on the Model 001 bolts to; the steel bracket that also bolts to the viscous heater. What happened to it?