Ongoing P0299 underboost problems

mattbucher · **Posted:** Sun Jun 18, 2017 6:52 pm

Thanks...

I am checking but think the timing belt has not been done given it only has 108k miles on it...but I'm checking on that. I have read you should put a new water pump on when you change the timing belt...any thoughts on that?

I did do the full EGR delete with rerouting of the egr coolant lines with the Sasquatch.com weeks stage 1&2 kit

Replaced glow plugs with egr delete (7V)

If you can give me the part numbers for the muffler you recommend when I get to removing the cat. We don't have any emissions inspections so I should be good getting rid of the cat

Thanks...my project list is growing but know it will run so much better when I get this all done!!

flash7210 · **Posted:** Sun Jun 18, 2017 8:43 pm

You can skip the water pump replacment if you want. But what will you do when the water pump fails?
Best advice is to replace it while you are already in there.
Yes, its some extra work, but then you wont have to worry about the water pump failing.

(Hint: the timing belt turns the water pump. If the water pump bearing fails, the timing belt will loose tension, and... :dead:

)

mattbucher · **Posted:** Sun Jun 18, 2017 9:03 pm

That's what I figured too. Better to just replace it when it is easy to get to...kinda like glow plugs with EGR delete.

Have a good one.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sun Jun 18, 2017 9:03 pm

Yes, replace the water pump when you do the timing belt job! A little more work involved, but well worth the effort as Flash stated!

As to the muffler: Part No: Flowmaster 942542 Series 40 Delta Flow, 2.50 Center In / 2.50 Offset Out
or any good straight through muffler that has these same specifications!
straight pipe to put in place of the CAT, a piece of 2.5" exhaust tubing long enough to weld to the turbo down pipe and then to the muffler inlet on the other end!
Get rid of the smaller choke point connection just in front of the CAT! Any good muffler shop should be able to perform the CAT removal and muffler install.
You can re-use the OEM tailpipe leaving the muffler that goes over the rear axle and exits below the rear bumper.
There is NO O2 sensors on the Jeep CRD, so removing the CAT will NOT set and DTC's (codes)... :wink:

CAT's are nothing more than restrictive chokes on your exhaust system!!!!! An EPA Boondoggle! :furious:

flash7210 · **Posted:** Sun Jun 18, 2017 9:25 pm

I did my straight pipe by cutting off the cat and dumping everything behind it.
Clamped on a turn down. Exhaust dumps directly below the front passenger seat.

Its... kinda... loud :twisted:

(But not so bad with the windows rolled up :wink:

)

GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Sun Jun 18, 2017 11:46 pm

Exhaust:

I bobbed mine about 3" behind the braided flex section. 2.5" all the way out the back bumper.

Installed the Flowmaster in my sig, just behind the rear cross member, and kept the 2.5" factory pipe up over the rear axle, and out the back.

I'm told it sounds really throaty, but it's so quiet I can't hear it inside the vehicle, except for barely a second when the VGT vanes open when lifting after acceleration.

Trans Dipstick:

I tried the lazy Z, and it kept popping up still.

When I had the trans pan off, I took note of the dipstick, and cut it so it wouldn't hit the bottom of the pan.

Even after this, it was somehow working it's self loose and vibrating against the plastic engine cover, so much, that the yellow dipstick handle and the engine cover were turning each other to powder.

I found a cheap easy foolproof fix, and it's worked great for just under 1000 miles, so I think I'll stick with it. I will post pictures when I can.

I modeled it after an old marine inboard design.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Mon Jun 19, 2017 10:15 am

flash7210 wrote:

I did my straight pipe by cutting off the cat and dumping everything behind it.
Clamped on a turn down. Exhaust dumps directly below the front passenger seat.
Its... kinda... loud :twisted:

(But not so bad with the windows rolled up :wink:

)

That is why I installed the Flowmaster muffler in place of stock muffler when removing the CAT; kept the OEM pipe over the rear axle to exit exhaust out just under the rear bumper; straight through design to gain NO Backpressure and free flowing system, yet it has a real nice mellow sound! Do not even hear it in vehicle with windows rolled up and AC on! :wink:

mattbucher · **Posted:** Mon Jun 19, 2017 10:37 pm

Checked today and with engine warm in neutral the transmission fluid was about 2-3mm above the full dot (4th hole on dipstick). I know you said the transmission prefers to be above the full mark but how much above the full mark should it be?

Did find out the coolant bypass with EGR kit was not tight enough and think this is where the coolant leak was coming from and not my thermostat. I had the shop do the coolant pressure test to check for the source of the leak...so if that is true I may have one piece of good news. But I'm skeptical that this was the real issue. Only time will tell

I have the IAP sensor ordered and hope to get it in this week...

Guess if it doesn't fix my P0299...then I'll pull intercooler and try and clean it out...but how do I clean it out if it has a lot of junky oil residue in it??

Thanks

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Tue Jun 20, 2017 11:58 am

On transmission fluid level, I keep mine ~1/2" above the full mark when hot checked in neutral! (ATF+4)

On CAC cleaning, I used some heavy duty industrial degreaser mixed with some hot water, filled the CAC while having it lying on a flat surface with hose connections facing up to hold the liquid.
Did a couple of quick rinses to get the worst out, then left it full to the brim overnight to soak. Any oil residue will float to the top of the cleaning liquid!
Drained it, then rinsed it out good with clean water, and blowed air through it with shop vac to dry it out before reinstalling.
Soaking overnight also allows you to check for any leaks in the CAC which luckily I had none! :roll:

I hope that was your coolant leak and fixes your problem!!! :wink:

Let us know how the IAP replacement works out...

mattbucher · **Posted:** Tue Jun 20, 2017 6:03 pm

Awesome! Any good links to a step by step for Mann Provent system? Not sure if it comes with all mounting hardware and connectors and instructions?

I found this link? Not sure if all that stuff comes with the provent or extra?

http://www.auerbach.ca/kj/provent/

mattbucher · **Posted:** Tue Jun 20, 2017 6:18 pm

Well...I guess I answered my question when I started to read this link. Looks like the setup has to be put together with extras parts and custom bracket. Any thoughts on the recommendations in this link???

flash7210 · **Posted:** Tue Jun 20, 2017 7:03 pm

mattbucher wrote:

Well...I guess I answered my question when I started to read this link. Looks like the setup has to be put together with extras parts and custom bracket. Any thoughts on the recommendations in this link???

No special brackets required.
Mine is on the passenger side. Nested between the AC lines and coolant tank.
Just need hoses, clamps, elbows, and 1 inch to 3/4 reducers.
And a valve for the drain line.

Lots of ways to do it.
Just figure out where you want to put it and get all the parts to connect up the hoses.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Tue Jun 20, 2017 9:27 pm

As Flash said, most mount them on the passenger side just behind the turbo vacuum controls!
I did make a small bracket when I installed mine a few years ago and mounted it to the backside of the OEM bracket that the turbo vacuum controls are mounted to.. :wink:

Not a lot of options or space as to where you can mount the PRoVent filter under the hood as space is limited! :roll:

picture:

mattbucher · **Posted:** Fri Jun 23, 2017 11:22 am

Ok...

I'm getting ready to order everything for the following...

1) Timing Belt Change (is the GRAFF new water pump ok? I saw the posts about avoiding crown water pump...but sasquatch and IDPARTS.COM have the GRAFF w/ metal turbine...is that ok?)

2) Provent

3) Fuel Filter (recommendation on using the diesel supplement to add in to filter instead of diesel fuel??)

4) Transmission filters w/ fluid

5) New thermostat to go ahead and change w/ Timing belt (any suggestion on paper gasket OEM or making one?)

6) New fan clutch to change w/ timing belt

7) Thinking about going ahead and replacing engine mounts and transmission mounts...but have NO CLUE what it takes to do that? Is it worth just replacing at 110K or should I wait until problem? Thinking it may help my shuddering problem in reverse?

Question about timing belt tools...read posts and watched youtube video using the OE Miller tool set...Sasquatchparts.com has this to rent for $100...IDPARTS.COM has a different kit to purchase for a little more - so I would have it for the next service in another 100K miles...but it looks very different and I have not seen anything that makes me comfortable trying to use it for the first time? Any suggestions?

9) Planning to rent the kit from sasquatch.com for intercooler leak check? Is it worth it? What do you hook up to check for the IC leak...or should I just use water and soap?

Supposed to get IAP sensor today...but thinking I may have a leak in intercooler that is small and missed by boost test (given a lot of oil buildup around intercooler on turbo side? I'll let you know if IAP sensor fixes my underboost code...but still gonna move forward with all of the above as soon as I get parts ordered...

I'll post pictures...

Taking on a lot but after reading the step-by-step and watching videos feel like I can tackle this...

But I'm sure I'll have some good stories about things I messed up by the end of it all.

Thanks for all of the help
-matt

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Fri Jun 23, 2017 9:07 pm

Where are you located, your signature does not say! :roll:

mattbucher · **Posted:** Fri Jun 23, 2017 9:08 pm

One more quick question regarding timing belt change with change of water pump and thermostat...

Where can I find the torque specs for everything?

mattbucher · **Posted:** Fri Jun 23, 2017 9:14 pm

I live in Lawrenceburg Kentucky...bourbon country!!

I ordered everything today from sasquatchparts.com...including Miller tool rental.

They're a little more on some things than idparts.com but Seth there has always been extremely helpful and even responds to questions on weekends.

I did wait on engine and transmission mount kit. Don't have an engine lift for that.

Going to start tearing it apart this week and next weekend.

I'll keep everyone posted!!!

Can't thank you enough for all of the help.

GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Fri Jun 23, 2017 10:42 pm

mattbucher wrote:

Ok...

I'm getting ready to order everything for the following...

1) Timing Belt Change (is the GRAFF new water pump ok? I saw the posts about avoiding crown water pump...but Sasquatch and IDPARTS.COM have the GRAFF w/ metal turbine...is that ok?) As far as I know they have a good reputation, but there have been some lately that the impeller spins on the shaft. I would check it at first with a cloth to protect your hand when you hold the impeller, and try to turn the pulley both ways. If you get any movement (mark the impeller/shaft somehow so you know.) If you get no movement it's likely ok. If you get any at all, return it.

2) Provent Good choice

3) Fuel Filter (recommendation on using the diesel supplement to add in to filter instead of diesel fuel??) I've no issue with that, but choose a good filter from WWDiesel's list, 5 micron or better

4) Transmission filters w/ fluid Give some consideration to installing a drain plug, possibly even fumoto valve. to make servicing the trans a far less messy endeavor.

5) New thermostat to go ahead and change w/ Timing belt (any suggestion on paper gasket OEM or making one?) I have the OEM gasket on mine, and it hasn't leaked. I think too many people, mechanics included, put too much faith in their favorite sealer, and less time and care into properly cleaning the old gasket stuff away from the sealing surface. This results in eventual leaks.

6) New fan clutch to change w/ timing belt Have you compared prices VS GM HD 11 blade fan, and gm clutch? (bolts right up, if you replace them both together)

7) Thinking about going ahead and replacing engine mounts and transmission mounts...but have NO CLUE what it takes to do that? Is it worth just replacing at 110K or should I wait until problem? Thinking it may help my shuddering problem in reverse? If they've never been serviced before, it's likely you already have a problem, but just don't know it. The top nuts aren't difficult to do on either side, with 12-14" extension. I used 1/2" drive because I had it, but 3/8 would work too if you have good quality tools. The only really tough one of the bunch is the bottom one on the left side under the battery. I removed the front propeller shaft and the starter on mine to get to it. Getting the top bolt of the starter back in was nearly as hard. The transmission mount, I pulled it out to clean the gravel out and re-paint the rear cross-member. It didn't need replacing, but I'm glad I checked it, as the upper mount bolts were loose. Make sure you don't lose and don't forget to reinstall the heat shield between the mount and the exhaust pipe.

Question about timing belt tools...read posts and watched youtube video using the OE Miller tool set...Sasquatchparts.com has this to rent for $100...IDPARTS.COM has a different kit to purchase for a little more - so I would have it for the next service in another 100K miles...but it looks very different and I have not seen anything that makes me comfortable trying to use it for the first time? Any suggestions? Really, only you can decide which approach works best for you. The primary difference is, If you rent, you will probably also have to rent a camshaft pulley holding spanner, or make yourself a device to serve that function. If you buy the kit, I believe that it comes with one. No matter which way you go, they all come with easy to understand instructions.

9) Planning to rent the kit from sasquatch.com for intercooler leak check? Is it worth it? YES What do you hook up to check for the IC leak...or should I just use water and soap? Regulated air on the inside, and a gauge to see if the pressure drops. If it does, then soapy water on the outside to see where.

Supposed to get IAP sensor today...but thinking I may have a leak in intercooler that is small and missed by boost test (given a lot of oil buildup around intercooler on turbo side? I'll let you know if IAP sensor fixes my underboost code...but still gonna move forward with all of the above as soon as I get parts ordered...

I'll post pictures... Always fun and educational.

Taking on a lot but after reading the step-by-step and watching videos feel like I can tackle this...

But I'm sure I'll have some good stories about things I messed up by the end of it all.

Thanks for all of the help

-matt

Dennis MacGyver · **Posted:** Fri Jun 23, 2017 11:37 pm

This thread really got off topic of it's original purpose.

GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Sat Jun 24, 2017 12:04 am

True, but it's being guided by the OP's questions as he works through his Jeep's issues.
Hopefully no one decides to flame him because he had more than one issue he needed to ask about.

Ongoing P0299 underboost problems

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