Overheating During Towing

jws84_02 · **Posted:** Thu Jun 29, 2017 8:33 am

Bushman5 wrote:

NapaBavarian wrote:

WWDiesel wrote:

Are you using the tow mode function (button on side of gear shifter)? If not, you should be especially on hills or long inclines as this will help transmission from generating as much heat load when towing! :roll:

I believe this I'd just overdrive lockout, a tow mode would move the shift points and perhaps lock out 5th locking out 4th makes it almost un drivable, I mostly use it for compression braking

strangely, thats how my rockers popped off ....i was on the freeway and took the O/D off to rapidly slow down........then crunch bang boom......$6000 plus CDN later...

$6000? Yikes. Should of got ahold of one of us on here to help

flash7210 · **Posted:** Thu Jun 29, 2017 9:23 am

Bushman5 wrote:

NapaBavarian wrote:

WWDiesel wrote:

Are you using the tow mode function (button on side of gear shifter)? If not, you should be especially on hills or long inclines as this will help transmission from generating as much heat load when towing! :roll:

I believe this I'd just overdrive lockout, a tow mode would move the shift points and perhaps lock out 5th locking out 4th makes it almost un drivable, I mostly use it for compression braking

strangely, thats how my rockers popped off ....i was on the freeway and took the O/D off to rapidly slow down........then crunch bang boom......$6000 plus CDN later...

I frequently hit OD-off to downshift and help with slowing down.

Chances are that your rockers were already on their way out and the downshift was the last straw.
Or you did it while at 70mph and the rpms shot up over 3500 which is not good for anything.

I typically let it down to 50mph before downshifting.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Thu Jun 29, 2017 10:00 am

NapaBavarian wrote:

WWDiesel wrote:

Are you using the tow mode function (button on side of gear shifter)? If not, you should be especially on hills or long inclines as this will help transmission from generating as much heat load when towing! :roll:

I believe this I'd just overdrive lockout, a tow mode would move the shift points and perhaps lock out 5th locking out 4th makes it almost un drivable, I mostly use it for compression braking

From the Jeep Liberty CRD Owners Manual:

Quote:

"When frequent transmission shifting occurs while using
Overdrive, such as when operating the vehicle under
heavy load conditions (for example, in hilly terrain,
strong head winds, or trailer towing), turning off overdrive
will improve performance and extend transmission
life by reducing excessive shifting and heat buildup.
The lockout feature
is useful when towing a trailer or carrying a heavy load."

mass-hole · **Posted:** Thu Jun 29, 2017 11:51 am

Just to add to the conversation for the future, I had a similar experience and the first thing I did was swap my fan clutch to a hayden HD which did not fix the issue. I then went through the whole rest of the system trying to chase down the issue to no avail. Ended up being that the Hayden Clutch was bad from day 1 as well and now I am running a fixed flex fan and have zero issues.

Moral of the story: check your fan clutch. And if you buy a new one, check that one before you install it too. OR just do the fixed fan mod.

Oh and FYI, the fan is on a pulley which is 2/3 the size of the crank pulley. This means its spinning 50% faster than the engine, so at 1000 rpm its at 1500, 2000 its at 3000, 3000 its at 4500, and 4000 its at 6000. This is why no electric fan will ever pump as much air as the stock mech fan. They generally spin at 3000 or less with much less substantial blades.

gtmiller · **Posted:** Thu Jul 06, 2017 6:59 pm

mass-hole wrote:

Just to add to the conversation for the future, I had a similar experience and the first thing I did was swap my fan clutch to a hayden HD which did not fix the issue. I then went through the whole rest of the system trying to chase down the issue to no avail. Ended up being that the Hayden Clutch was bad from day 1 as well and now I am running a fixed flex fan and have zero issues.

Moral of the story: check your fan clutch. And if you buy a new one, check that one before you install it too. OR just do the fixed fan mod.

Oh and FYI, the fan is on a pulley which is 2/3 the size of the crank pulley. This means its spinning 50% faster than the engine, so at 1000 rpm its at 1500, 2000 its at 3000, 3000 its at 4500, and 4000 its at 6000. This is why no electric fan will ever pump as much air as the stock mech fan. They generally spin at 3000 or less with much less substantial blades.

I may as well second this answer too. I overheated while towing up hills. Fan clutch was gone, replaced it and the replacement was bad. IDparts was great about replacing the faulty part though.

I do wish I just went with a fixed fan. but a working clutch is doing it now

mass-hole · **Posted:** Thu Jul 06, 2017 8:21 pm

gtmiller wrote:

mass-hole wrote:

Just to add to the conversation for the future, I had a similar experience and the first thing I did was swap my fan clutch to a hayden HD which did not fix the issue. I then went through the whole rest of the system trying to chase down the issue to no avail. Ended up being that the Hayden Clutch was bad from day 1 as well and now I am running a fixed flex fan and have zero issues.

Moral of the story: check your fan clutch. And if you buy a new one, check that one before you install it too. OR just do the fixed fan mod.

Oh and FYI, the fan is on a pulley which is 2/3 the size of the crank pulley. This means its spinning 50% faster than the engine, so at 1000 rpm its at 1500, 2000 its at 3000, 3000 its at 4500, and 4000 its at 6000. This is why no electric fan will ever pump as much air as the stock mech fan. They generally spin at 3000 or less with much less substantial blades.

I may as well second this answer too. I overheated while towing up hills. Fan clutch was gone, replaced it and the replacement was bad. IDparts was great about replacing the faulty part though.

I do wish I just went with a fixed fan. but a working clutch is doing it now

The flex fan is nice, but it's loud and I am pretty sure I take a hit on mpg's. The claim on the original thread was that it wouldn't because it's lighter but I would only buy this claim if ur driving in traffic or city where it's a lot of rpm changes. If you are just cruising at a constant rpm then any drag is going to be from air drag and it will obviously be higher than a disengaged clutch fan that spins slower.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Fri Jul 07, 2017 10:40 am

Several members on this forum including myself have installed a GM 11 blade plastic mechanical fan along with the GM extra HD fan clutch designed for V8 GM motors; it's a direct fit, no mods required! It seems to move a lot more air at lower speeds especially at idle and in stop and go traffic!

I have had the GM setup installed on my CRD for over three summers now; absolutely no overheating issues even in the very high 100+ degree, high humidity days here in the south.
It certainly did make a huge difference in stop and go town driving as to helping the AC cool much better even with the electric fan running on high at all the times.
What I do like about this setup is being able to run a much heavier duty V8 fan clutch designed for 1/2 - 1 ton V8 GM trucks with the factory HD towing package using this GM setup....

Note: the 11 blade GM fan is basicly the same size as a Mopar gasser 11 blade fan, but it does set just a tiny bit closer to the back of the CAC, which I actually like.
________________
PN's! NAPA also carries them!
GM Severe Duty Fan Clutch by NAPA: PN 271625 (made by Four Seasons who is owned by Hayden)
Hayden Fan Clutch no. for GM: HY 2986
Four Seasons Fan Clutch for GM: FS46023 (almost identical to GM OEM fan clutch)

GM 11 blade HD Cooling Fan: NAPA No. 8552223 (GM-15976889 / GM3112109 or 15-80712 Replaces Original (OE) Part #:15976889)
Fan PN Interchange: Dorman -620-602

See this thread for additional details:
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=82941

:SOMBRERO:

mass-hole · **Posted:** Fri Jul 07, 2017 10:33 pm

WWDiesel wrote:

Several members on this forum including myself have installed a GM 11 blade plastic mechanical fan along with the GM extra HD fan clutch designed for V8 GM motors; it's a direct fit, no mods required! It seems to move a lot more air at lower speeds especially at idle and in stop and go traffic!

I have had the GM setup installed on my CRD for over three summers now; absolutely no overheating issues even in the very high 100+ degree, high humidity days here in the south.
It certainly did make a huge difference in stop and go town driving as to helping the AC cool much better even with the electric fan running on high at all the times.
What I do like about this setup is being able to run a much heavier duty V8 fan clutch designed for 1/2 - 1 ton V8 GM trucks with the factory HD towing package using this GM setup....

Note: the 11 blade GM fan is basicly the same size as a Mopar gasser 11 blade fan, but it does set just a tiny bit closer to the back of the CAC, which I actually like.
________________
PN's! NAPA also carries them!
GM Severe Duty Fan Clutch by NAPA: PN 271625 (made by Four Seasons who is owned by Hayden)
Hayden Fan Clutch no. for GM: HY 2986
Four Seasons Fan Clutch for GM: FS46023 (almost identical to GM OEM fan clutch)

GM 11 blade HD Cooling Fan: NAPA No. 8552223 (GM-15976889 / GM3112109 or 15-80712 Replaces Original (OE) Part #:15976889)
Fan PN Interchange: Dorman -620-602

See this thread for additional details:
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=82941

:SOMBRERO:

After I bought a failed Hayden, which led me to tear into the whole rest of the cooling system since you would kinda expect a brand new fan clutch to work, and read of others on here having similar issues with there's I wrote that off.

NapaBavarian · **Joined:** Mon Jun 20, 2016 2:39 pm **Posts:** 129

WWDiesel wrote:

NapaBavarian wrote:

WWDiesel wrote:

Are you using the tow mode function (button on side of gear shifter)? If not, you should be especially on hills or long inclines as this will help transmission from generating as much heat load when towing! :roll:

I believe this I'd just overdrive lockout, a tow mode would move the shift points and perhaps lock out 5th locking out 4th makes it almost un drivable, I mostly use it for compression braking

From the Jeep Liberty CRD Owners Manual:

Quote:

"When frequent transmission shifting occurs while using
Overdrive, such as when operating the vehicle under
heavy load conditions (for example, in hilly terrain,
strong head winds, or trailer towing), turning off overdrive
will improve performance and extend transmission
life by reducing excessive shifting and heat buildup.
The lockout feature
is useful when towing a trailer or carrying a heavy load."

This is a given for any vehicle, and towing on the open highway this isn't such a good idea, only in a situation where the engine is luging down or shifting up and down.

A tow mode moves the shift points up, sometimes adds active downshifting for compression breaking on downhill grades based on what speed you brake to, some double overdrive vehicles lock out the second overdrive but not both.

The od lockout button does not fit any of this criteria.

Dent · **Joined:** Sat Aug 04, 2012 11:05 pm **Posts:** 275

mass-hole wrote:

Just to add to the conversation for the future, I had a similar experience and the first thing I did was swap my fan clutch to a hayden HD which did not fix the issue. I then went through the whole rest of the system trying to chase down the issue to no avail. Ended up being that the Hayden Clutch was bad from day 1 as well and now I am running a fixed flex fan and have zero issues.

Moral of the story: check your fan clutch. And if you buy a new one, check that one before you install it too. OR just do the fixed fan mod.

Oh and FYI, the fan is on a pulley which is 2/3 the size of the crank pulley. This means its spinning 50% faster than the engine, so at 1000 rpm its at 1500, 2000 its at 3000, 3000 its at 4500, and 4000 its at 6000. This is why no electric fan will ever pump as much air as the stock mech fan. They generally spin at 3000 or less with much less substantial blades.

Mass-hole, Do you have info on swapping to a flex fan? I'm on my second failed Hayden 2905.

TURBO-DIESEL-FREAK · **Joined:** Sat Apr 17, 2010 3:29 pm **Posts:** 1167

Dent wrote:

mass-hole wrote:

Just to add to the conversation for the future, I had a similar experience and the first thing I did was swap my fan clutch to a hayden HD which did not fix the issue. I then went through the whole rest of the system trying to chase down the issue to no avail. Ended up being that the Hayden Clutch was bad from day 1 as well and now I am running a fixed flex fan and have zero issues.

Moral of the story: check your fan clutch. And if you buy a new one, check that one before you install it too. OR just do the fixed fan mod.

Oh and FYI, the fan is on a pulley which is 2/3 the size of the crank pulley. This means its spinning 50% faster than the engine, so at 1000 rpm its at 1500, 2000 its at 3000, 3000 its at 4500, and 4000 its at 6000. This is why no electric fan will ever pump as much air as the stock mech fan. They generally spin at 3000 or less with much less substantial blades.

Mass-hole, Do you have info on swapping to a flex fan? I'm on my second failed Hayden 2905.

PM Infinite_Karma and ask him about how good his upgrades are. He did a complete change out of his cooling fan and fan clutch about 18 months ago. He also modified the fan shroud. I think he also used the Hayden HD Fan Clutch, but my understanding is the GM fan clutch is an exact fit and is better. Here is his LOSTJEEPS.com link...

viewtopic.php?f=5&t=83766

mass-hole · **Posted:** Sat Jul 08, 2017 6:05 pm

Dent wrote:

mass-hole wrote:

Just to add to the conversation for the future, I had a similar experience and the first thing I did was swap my fan clutch to a hayden HD which did not fix the issue. I then went through the whole rest of the system trying to chase down the issue to no avail. Ended up being that the Hayden Clutch was bad from day 1 as well and now I am running a fixed flex fan and have zero issues.

Moral of the story: check your fan clutch. And if you buy a new one, check that one before you install it too. OR just do the fixed fan mod.

Oh and FYI, the fan is on a pulley which is 2/3 the size of the crank pulley. This means its spinning 50% faster than the engine, so at 1000 rpm its at 1500, 2000 its at 3000, 3000 its at 4500, and 4000 its at 6000. This is why no electric fan will ever pump as much air as the stock mech fan. They generally spin at 3000 or less with much less substantial blades.

Mass-hole, Do you have info on swapping to a flex fan? I'm on my second failed Hayden 2905.

I used a flex A lite 1519 fan, a flex a lite 851 pulley adapter and a flex a lite 14528 1" fan spacer kit + a 14524 1/2" spacer to get the fan to sit inside the stock shroud. You could probably get away with just the 1" spacer. I originally just had the 1/2" spacer but the fan sat pretty far back out of the shroud so I bought the additional 1" spacer.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Dent · **Joined:** Sat Aug 04, 2012 11:05 pm **Posts:** 275

mass-hole wrote:

I used a flex A lite 1519 fan, a flex a lite 851 pulley adapter and a flex a lite 14528 1" fan spacer kit + a 14524 1/2" spacer to get the fan to sit inside the stock shroud. You could probably get away with just the 1" spacer. I originally just had the 1/2" spacer but the fan sat pretty far back out of the shroud so I bought the additional 1" spacer.

What about the 2" spacer? Would that be too close?

mass-hole · **Posted:** Sat Jul 08, 2017 9:02 pm

Dent wrote:

mass-hole wrote:

I used a flex A lite 1519 fan, a flex a lite 851 pulley adapter and a flex a lite 14528 1" fan spacer kit + a 14524 1/2" spacer to get the fan to sit inside the stock shroud. You could probably get away with just the 1" spacer. I originally just had the 1/2" spacer but the fan sat pretty far back out of the shroud so I bought the additional 1" spacer.

What about the 2" spacer? Would that be too close?

Probably. I am already at 1.5 and I can just barely see the back of the blades if I look in from the side where the air box is. I would imagine 2 would be getting close to the radiator. I have also read that the blade should stick back from the shroud slightly.

The fan is a beast though. I have my tune at 400 ft-lbs now and have been doing some WOT pulls on hills while datalogging and it doesn't even care. This is at 90 degrees, 6500' of elevation, and A/C on full blast.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Dent · **Joined:** Sat Aug 04, 2012 11:05 pm **Posts:** 275

TURBO-DIESEL-FREAK wrote:

Dent wrote:

PM Infinite_Karma and ask him about how good his upgrades are. He did a complete change out of his cooling fan and fan clutch about 18 months ago. He also modified the fan shroud. I think he also used the Hayden HD Fan Clutch, but my understanding is the GM fan clutch is an exact fit and is better. Here is his LOSTJEEPS.com link...

viewtopic.php?f=5&t=83766

Thanks for the link, but I would think that this set up would suffer from fan clutch failure like the OE clutches, and the Hayden HD2905. A new (just over a year old and less than 10k miles) just failed while I was towing. I don't do a lot of towing, but when I do, it is across country. I think I will order the Mass-hole set up for piece of mind. If the mpg isn't hit too bad, I'll run it through the summer. If I need to change it out, it's easy enough to swap out with the fan shroud mod. I'm pretty disappointed in the failure of the Hayden HD fan clutches, and if one fails on a long tow, that could cause a multi-day delay.

Overheating During Towing

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