Gents and Gals,

After a few years, I am glad you are here, but not glad to be back.

Last week, my daughters and I were driving home on mountain roads, and around a sharp switchback, a drunk driver crossed into our lane and drilled us full speed. Luckily I had a good, wide angle, and he made contact right behind the driver's door. Everyone is fine. No one has a scratch. I have a slight concussion. This was in our primary driver: '03 Ford E350 Passenger Van. Totaled.

The '06 CRD has been sitting. I now have to get it going so we can have a solid driver, until we replace the van. Had some fuel delivery issues. It was the fuel filter.

Now, Water Pump pulley is spinning freely, in a bad way, no resistance, like a roller skate wheel.

A/C Pulley is crunky and difficult.

Running great, but getting too hot. Not showing up on temp needle on dash. Prolly bad thermostat too. Not driving it anymore until I get this part figured out.

Can Water Pump pulley be changed without changing the whole Water Pump? (Please say yes)

Can Water Pump be changed without doing timing belt? (Please say yes)

(Timing belt was already changed around 65,000 miles because of turbo failure, 6 rockers being crushed...you know, that old saw.)

Sorry I couldn't get more into the search bar. I did some preliminary research, but the concussion is making it hard for my mind to clamp down on so much information.

Thanks,
Randy

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'06 Khaki Jeep Liberty CRD
65,000 miles
2nd Gen. Fuel Head, 2nd Turbo Charger, 2nd Timing Belt, Reman HD TC, EHM, GDE Full Torque Eco-Tune, 7v Etecno GPs
Blue Samco hoses, because I want people to say, "Here's a guys who knows what he's after."
MAP sensor: clean.
As soon as the CRD reached the limit of the warranty, CEL went on.

Something is odd here. If you can access the water pump to spin its pulley then you know you have to pull the timing belt to do the WP as it's driven by the timing belt and you have already removed all the stuff to get to the timing belt. If on the other hand you have not already dug in as far as the timing belt then whatever pulley is spinning freely is not the water pump. For example if it's the thing at the upper left front of the engine that's driven by the serpentine belt and has 2 heater size coolant hoses connected that's the viscous heater not the water pump and the pulley should spin freely unless its clutch is engaged.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

Sorry, Papa.

You're right. It's the Viscus Water Heater: top left. Is that pulley supposed to spin that freely? Great. So maybe my problem, in terms of the the crunky noise, is A/C Comp. Pulley? It is definitely "grindy" when I try to hand spin it.

The noise, which is whiney, is coming from front of engine, I am assuming: A/C Pulley. Noise Heals itself when RPMs increase. Only whiney on low RPM.

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'06 Khaki Jeep Liberty CRD
65,000 miles
2nd Gen. Fuel Head, 2nd Turbo Charger, 2nd Timing Belt, Reman HD TC, EHM, GDE Full Torque Eco-Tune, 7v Etecno GPs
Blue Samco hoses, because I want people to say, "Here's a guys who knows what he's after."
MAP sensor: clean.
As soon as the CRD reached the limit of the warranty, CEL went on.

I don't honestly know but I do know it's a clutched pulley so if the clutch is disengaged (engine off) there is no reason why it would not freely spin. It's possible that the AC pulley (also clutched) is the source of noise but the most common source of that type of noise at the front of the engine is the alternator decoupler pulley. Pop the plastic cap and if there is lots of red dust it's probably bad or with the serp belt on; crank up; at idle in park shine a light down past the air filter box on the serp belt tensioner; if it's doing anything more than barely twitching the decoupler pulley is shot.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

There is a little red dust on the front face of the ADP. The pulley seems to spin well. And this Alternator is only 5 years old, is a Remy Reman., and has only 11,000 miles on it.

Also, not sure if it is related, or if it helps for diagnosis, but there seems to be 2 noises going on at low RPM: #1 is a rattle / grind from front of the engine. #2 happens when I step on it, to gain power, out of lower RPM, I get a whine, like a ghost, something akin to having a split hose, but I've checked my hoses over and over - and everything looks great. Vac hoses, SAMCOs - everything looks fine.

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'06 Khaki Jeep Liberty CRD
65,000 miles
2nd Gen. Fuel Head, 2nd Turbo Charger, 2nd Timing Belt, Reman HD TC, EHM, GDE Full Torque Eco-Tune, 7v Etecno GPs
Blue Samco hoses, because I want people to say, "Here's a guys who knows what he's after."
MAP sensor: clean.
As soon as the CRD reached the limit of the warranty, CEL went on.