2006 CRD Limited - In-operable

racertracer · **Posted:** Sat Jul 01, 2017 3:55 pm

Inoperable Jeep CRD available. Approximately 58,000 original miles

2006 Jeep Liberty CRD diesel. with an engine problem.

The Jeep had been sitting in friends garage since 2010 when it stopped running, he didn't know what the problem was and it was beyond his means to get it fixed. He came to the conclusion that he would never be able to do the work on it and wanted it off his property. I purchased it and after many months we finally got it running.

We discovered that it had broken rockers, trashed cams and 2 bad injectors. I replaced them all along with many other parts including timing belt and related parts, camshafts, head gasket, ARP studs, thermostat, alternator pulley, new updated fuel head, all new fluids everywhere.

It ran great for some time until an overheating problem occurred while traveling up steep inclines on the highway. It was determined that the injectors were not seated properly causing an over-fueling condition.

It now starts out rough but soon smoothes out. Motor oil is showing in the coolant bottle, with excessive pressure under the radiator cap and white smoke out of the exhaust.

I spent many hours repairing this CRD and lots of money, I just don't have the time to open it up again and make the repairs.

The following parts were replaced.

1. Timing belt and related parts.
2. Rocker arms and lifters.
3. Head gasket.
4. Thermostat.
5. Injectors removed, cleaned, new washers and o-rings. .... I must not have seated the injectors properly when I re-installed them.
6. New camshafts - intake and exhaust.
7. New ARP studs.
8. Cleaned intake
9. New brakes pads, new rear calipers, and abs sensors.
10 rear window regulators.

Comes with a snorkel, factory light bar, full skid plates, factory tow package, Warn Winch 5000 lbs, a custom off-road bumper, side rails, old man emu, raised and off road aggressive tires that are in great shape.

Evic reads tire pressure.

Runs and drives good only for short distances, leaks coolant and oil.

Although this Jeep is in Connecticut, it has no rust..... because it originally came from a rust free state.

Sold as is.

jws84_02 · **Posted:** Sat Jul 01, 2017 6:08 pm

What are ya asking for it?

racertracer · **Posted:** Sat Jul 01, 2017 7:36 pm

http://www.ebay.com/itm/182646740708?ss ... 1554.l2649

jws84_02 · **Posted:** Sat Jul 01, 2017 7:45 pm

racertracer wrote:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/182646740708?ssPageName=STRK:MESCX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1554.l2649

Link says item isn't available

racertracer · **Posted:** Sat Jul 01, 2017 8:26 pm

Not sure why it says that... I can see it.

GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Sat Jul 01, 2017 9:10 pm

Mine shows 2800 starting bid or 4200 buy outright.

jws84_02 · **Posted:** Sat Jul 01, 2017 9:26 pm

It's working for me now. Not sure what was going on

racertracer · **Posted:** Sun Jul 16, 2017 4:32 am

I decided to pull the Ebay ad before it ended there was 450 people looking and watching the ad and 23 followers. 5 people emailed me. 3 wanted me to end the ad before it ended and accept their low bid. NOT.

Too much interest I thought ... decided to tare it down myself and try selling it again as a working CRD.

I reached the top of the rockers last night. The turbo is good but filled with oil, the oil had coolant in it, the intake is super clean now compared to the first time I opened her up. At that time the intake was caked with soot restricting air flow. The injectors are clean, the valves are intact and the rockers look great.

The head comes off tomorrow morning for further inspection.

What do you all think it could be? Let me know.

GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Sun Jul 16, 2017 5:14 am

Let's hope for a head gasket, and not a cracked head or wet sleeve piston liner.
that seems improbable though, since it has ARP studs.

Head = big bucks
Liner = major pita

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sun Jul 16, 2017 11:05 am

With you finding oil in the coolant bottle, I strongly suspect you will find it has a cracked head. :cry:

Be sure and have the head pressure tested once you get it off!!! :wink:

If the head pressure test comes up clean with no leaks found, then look for leak tracks on the head gasket.
Hopefully it will just be a matter of flattening (machining) the head a couple of thousands and installing a new thicker head gasket.... :roll:

racertracer · **Posted:** Sun Jul 16, 2017 12:14 pm

Cylinder one cracked liner/sleeve.

GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Sun Jul 16, 2017 12:19 pm

The good news is you can get everything from IDParts, although you will have 3 extra sets of piston rings that don't fit the old pistons.

racertracer · **Posted:** Sun Jul 16, 2017 12:50 pm

Cylinder 2 cracked sleeve. I can see and feel a ridge under my finger nail.

Cylinder 4 looks iffy, I can see a line but I don't feel a ridge.

Does anyone have any or all 4 sleeves with matching pistons available?

Or just the sleeves.

Mountainman · **Posted:** Sun Jul 16, 2017 1:01 pm

If it got hot enough to crack sleeves, which I haven't seen unless the piston melted or it dropped a valve. Then I would do all new pistons, sleeves, and valves personally. I'd be afraid that the other liners may have invisible fractures, and normally the pistons melt first with the over-fueling

racertracer · **Posted:** Sun Jul 16, 2017 1:06 pm

The coolant was low when I pulled over and didn't notice it while going up hill.

I poured new coolant in the system after I came back from the parts store sometimes later, the system was void of coolant and may have been the time that the crack or cracks occurred.

Pistons look good.

I have no clue as to the cause of the temperature spike while going up hills, although it has happened once before about a year ago after the timing belt was done and all the other parts installed while returning home from a 3-hour drive and going up hills on a highway with no adverse after effects.

racertracer · **Posted:** Sun Jul 16, 2017 3:08 pm

I have been texting Geordi and he has been very helpful ... but I don't want to over tax him or make myself a pest, Sam (Sirsam) has been a great help also and his timing belt how to video has helped me on many occasions so the same goes to him.

I am not a mechanic by trade just an amateur and I'd like to hear from those who have done this repair in the past. if someone who has removed the sleeves or the engine in the past, then I would appreciate hearing from your point of view, we all approach things differently and getting advice/pointers on what to look for and on how to best approach this would be great. I believe that we all have our own way of doing things and that experience speaks louder than theory.

I do have all the miller tools that I purchased with my first CRD ... I've had 4 so far.

geordi · **Posted:** Sun Jul 16, 2017 4:06 pm

Not bothering me at all brother. I'm just sad that we keep having bad connections but I've been on the road again the last few days.

Check your other thread, I posted an idea for you for testing it right now...

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

diesel_guy86 · **Posted:** Sun Jul 16, 2017 4:30 pm

Just throwing this out there, but i could use a good chassis. A deer totalled mine last year, the engine and trans are in great shape. If you ever get pi$$ed off enough i might be interested in coming and picking the body up.
I had a diesel crack 2 liners, the soot coked everything that the coolant touched. Radiaor, heater core, etc and corroded everything internally. Plus you had oil contaminating too, so you could have engine oil hiding in small spaces. Not trying to talk you out of anything, just the experience ive had with cracked liners before. I ended up swapping a whole nother motor in.

racertracer · **Posted:** Sun Jul 16, 2017 5:38 pm

Diesel Guy.... let me know what you have in mind.

diesel_guy86 · **Posted:** Sun Jul 16, 2017 9:29 pm

The only CRD liberty ive bought was mine, and 5 years ago, so i dont even know what they're worth. Id rather buy a shell and just swap my engine and trans in.

2006 CRD Limited - In-operable

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