Seized Engine

Steve777 · **Joined:** Fri Oct 16, 2015 11:31 pm **Posts:** 279

No not my CRD, but I have been looking for a second one and keep seeing ones pop up that seem nice in most ways except the engine won't start and/or is seized. The typical story is something like it was running fine, lost power, had it towed home and then it wouldn't start again. I am wondering if it is worth considering picking one of these up as a project.

Of course, unless there is a connecting rod poking thru the block, a seized or spins but won't start engine can be due to many things; and you won't really know what it needs until you get into the engine. But I was wondering if there were some "typical" failure modes and what usually causes them. I'm thinking here of the "seized" engine. That is it just clicks/clunks when turned to start. I say this because there just happen to be a couple of them show up recently and I was debating if I wanted to take on such a project.

I had been thinking the "seized" engines likely have a dropped valve (if it were just lifters breaking it should still crank, no). Are their other common things which can lead to this too? And what's involved in the repair (I am guessing a new piston, cyl sleeve, valves maybe head)? Is it worth doing or too much of a PITA.

Thoughts/experience on this.

flash7210 · **Posted:** Mon Jul 10, 2017 9:06 pm

To me, seized means that the crank wont turn.
Which could be bad engine bearings, brocken rod, or mashed piston/valve.

This one looks like a good project.
And if what the seller says is accurate, a fairly easy fix.
https://knoxville.craigslist.org/cto/6178175389.html

rankom · **Posted:** Mon Jul 10, 2017 9:22 pm

remember , this is a hobby vehicle , make sure you have one that has all the upgrades , or you have an other car to drive while you play with this project, if you buy it for a good price ,then maybe it is worth it , seems to me it is easier to by WW2 era air plane and get that project going , LOL and fly it around

flash7210 · **Posted:** Mon Jul 10, 2017 9:45 pm

I just bought a second CRD for my wife.
It has low miles and all the necessary engine mods are already done.
IOW, its boring. For me, that is.
But its perfect for my wife. All she has to do is get in and drive.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Mon Jul 10, 2017 11:16 pm

flash7210 wrote:

I just bought a second CRD for my wife.
It has low miles and all the necessary engine mods are already done.
IOW, its boring. For me, that is.
But its perfect for my wife. All she has to do is get in and drive.

What did you get? Details!!! :roll:

Steve777 · **Joined:** Fri Oct 16, 2015 11:31 pm **Posts:** 279

Thanks Flash. And this 2nd CRD would be for my wife too, so boring may not be a bad idea...

And that link does sound perfect. If only it were 1000 miles closer.

Any other thoughts on engine seizing and common causes?

flash7210 · **Posted:** Tue Jul 11, 2017 8:52 am

WWDiesel wrote:

flash7210 wrote:

I just bought a second CRD for my wife.
It has low miles and all the necessary engine mods are already done.
IOW, its boring. For me, that is.
But its perfect for my wife. All she has to do is get in and drive.

What did you get? Details!!! :roll:

I bought buddy357's CRD.
It was listed here in the for-sale section.

GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Tue Jul 11, 2017 10:43 pm

If it's locked up due to mechanical or hydraulic interference, You should at least be able to spin the crank backwards, if not forwards.
If it's truly seized and won't budge either way, is an indication of major catastrophe probably involving the pistons and liners, such as overheated it and welded them together, or a valve head stuffed deep into the piston deforming it and making it seize. Especially if they drove it home with the valve being pounded against the head by the piston.
In any such case you are probably looking at $8K more or less, to get a good engine back in it. And if you get a Reman engine with a warranty, you won't be able to do any upgrades to it until the warranty expires, or you will void the warranty.

TKB4 · **Posted:** Wed Jul 12, 2017 10:35 am

You can get used engines delivered to you for about $2800 or more but then they usually have 100k to 150k miles on them with minimal warranty. You would need to make sure it runs normally before you do anything to it or wouldn't be able to return it. Then I would replace rockers and arp studs which would run about $700 . Plus the other non engine mods then you still have a used engine.

That said. I just bought a non running 2005 limited CRD with 147k body is perfect and normal wear on interior that was thought to be locked up and not run for over a year. I paid $550, then when got it home it wasn't locked up and had it running in a day. It had cracked fitting on thermostat and they had green coolant in it and apparently kept adding water and maybe it overheated. It runs but sounds like has some rocker/lifter issues ( hope not a valve). It also has a transmission dated october 2011 so maybe it even has updated torque converter. I plan to remove head in next couple of weeks and see what I find, but it runs and drives after changing out thermostat fittings . Definitely at least a blown head gasket.

I may be able to get it in decent shape for about $1500 to $2000 total and lots of hours. Or it might take $4500 or so but then it would have the upgrades I put on others for about $2000.

Big Wrench · **Joined:** Mon Jul 10, 2017 1:31 pm **Posts:** 15

If it's seized and the coolant when into oil pan I'd say it broke a valve and the valve poked a hole in the head and piston.

rankom · **Posted:** Wed Jul 12, 2017 6:48 pm

yes most likely thats what happened but at this point people just give up and close the hood , some open it again and throw some money in to make it run again , it is all up to the individual , some guys just don't give up , so who makes good exhaust valve for this engine , i don't know ,who is selling good valves i don't know , , one thing i know is to run straight pipe prom turbo to rear bumper , and hope they the valves don't overheat

Big Wrench · **Joined:** Mon Jul 10, 2017 1:31 pm **Posts:** 15

I think your right about changing the exhaust to help lower EGT. Just removing the converter will help.

rankom · **Posted:** Fri Jul 14, 2017 2:15 pm

Also i read some reports from MARINE application and their experience on exhaust valve failures, in order to prolong service time on exhaust valve they did some testing and they used cobalt base alloy laser cladding treatments so these protective layers are resistant for the hot exhaust gases , i wouldn't mind paying extra to get these valves with this kind of protection ,

Big Wrench · **Joined:** Mon Jul 10, 2017 1:31 pm **Posts:** 15

That's interesting about the marine valves. Do you know where to buy them? Do you have any links about the valves?

GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Tue Jul 18, 2017 6:36 pm

VMM makes a whole line of Marine engines.

I don't know if parts are interchangeable though.

I suspect if there is a better valve that could possibly fit, they would have it in their current model A428 engine.

rankom · **Posted:** Wed Jul 19, 2017 8:43 pm

Big wrench , if you need info about these valves we have a lot of reading material, there is a specific thread about it . i don't know who can make better valves but for now OEM is the only option , if you ask me i wish they are better quality , but that is what we have at the moment , seems like everybody gave up on this topic so to speak , my machine shop reuse them when they're clean cylinder head and replace valve guide seals , so you never know some last a long time and some don't , so we can pray and hope they stay alive .

Seized Engine

Who is online