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 Post subject: Re: Please Help. Replaced timing belt, lost power, engine di
PostPosted: Wed Jul 19, 2017 9:29 pm 
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Posts: 15
Thank you for all the info so far. I am going to attempt to disassemble tomorrow.

The steps I understand are:
-Pin everything in time
-Remove cam pulleys, idler pulleys, and rear timing belt cover
-Remove and label wiring
-Remove and label injectors
-Remove fuel rail
-Remove EGR elbow
-Unbolt and remove intake

Sound about right?


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 Post subject: Re: Please Help. Replaced timing belt, lost power, engine di
PostPosted: Thu Jul 20, 2017 12:55 pm 
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How do I get the injectors out? The middle two were loose but the end injectors are tight. The #1 injector has some type of black sealant around it and it looks like this job has been done before.


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 Post subject: Re: Please Help. Replaced timing belt, lost power, engine di
PostPosted: Thu Jul 20, 2017 1:06 pm 
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Location: Tallahassee, Florida
It's probably not black sealant rather is diesel combustion goo or some such. General recommendation is lots of soaking with PBblaster or equivalent. Take a look at viewtopic.php?f=5&t=86771&p=912288&hilit=injector+removal#p912288

Don't forget new injector crush washers and "O" rings.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs


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 Post subject: Re: Please Help. Replaced timing belt, lost power, engine di
PostPosted: Thu Jul 20, 2017 1:18 pm 
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papaindigo wrote:
It's probably not black sealant rather is diesel combustion goo or some such. General recommendation is lots of soaking with PBblaster or equivalent. Take a look at viewtopic.php?f=5&t=86771&p=912288&hilit=injector+removal#p912288

Don't forget new injector crush washers and "O" rings.


Thanks. Is there any way to remove the harness and flop it out of the way? There is a large bunch of wires going down the side of the motor that is making it just sit on top of the valve cover with no where to move it to. I disconnected everything that I can see to try and move it as far as I can.


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 Post subject: Re: Please Help. Replaced timing belt, lost power, engine di
PostPosted: Thu Jul 20, 2017 2:04 pm 
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Yes but I believe so but don't know how. PM or email geordi

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs


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 Post subject: Re: Please Help. Replaced timing belt, lost power, engine di
PostPosted: Thu Jul 20, 2017 8:48 pm 
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You can take the plastic out and tie the harness to the windshield wiper arm (not blade) with a wire.

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2005 kj CRD, samco, suncoast tc, provent, Kennedy lift pump, GDE ECO full torque, 2nd gen filter head, 245/70/16 a/t tires, mopar light bar, fumoto oil valve, OEM Skid Plates, ARB Front bumper and HD OME, tru cool LPD47391 40k GVW tranny cooler (stock cooler delete), FF Dynamics e-fan and shroud, rocker arms replaced, HDS2 190F thermostat.


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 Post subject: Re: Please Help. Replaced timing belt, lost power, engine di
PostPosted: Thu Jul 20, 2017 11:28 pm 
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Location: Oregon Coast Dairy Country. Land of stumps, dumps, and "Liquid Pumps"
Quote:
Thanks. Is there any way to remove the harness and flop it out of the way? There is a large bunch of wires going down the side of the motor that is making it just sit on top of the valve cover with no where to move it to. I disconnected everything that I can see to try and move it as far as I can.

Use bungees attached to the hood to hoikem up out of the way

Image

ONly partially done here, as I only needed to remove the fuel rail.

EDITs: Detail and clarity

MAJOR EDIT:.... Especially if you are doing this yourself... For each connector you disconnect. TAG AND MARK IT so you don't get confused putting things back. Most only go one way one place, but there are connectors that can be connected to more than one thing, plus it's just a good habit to get into.

In the photo, to the near left (front RH of the vehicle) There are only 5 connectors.
1) #1 injector connector
2) Coolant Temperature connector (thermostat housing)
3) Viscous Heater Clutch connector
4) MAF connector (Intake air filter box, on top)
5) IAT connector (Intake Air Filter Box, towards the center of the vehicle)

In the photo, to the near right, (Front LH side of the vehicle)
1) Disconnect the battery Ground (or completely remove it)
2) Disconnect the alternator output wire
3) Disconnect the alternator field connector (both at back of alternator
4) Unbolt and remove the alternator and it's rear bracket to the intake manifold.
5) Disconnect the FQS connector at the back of the HP Fuel pump.
6) Disconnect the Flow Control Valve connector
7) Disconnect the ABS and EGR connectors (easier if you have the battery removed)
8 ) Disconnect the cable to the starter and the wire to the solenoid.
9) Disconnect the vacuum line (to the brake booster) where it connects to the vacuum tube (near the engine oil dipstick tube) Cap it so you don't get muck in it. Tape or whatever.

Down the middle:
1) Disconnect all the injector wire connectors
2) Disconnect the Fuel Pressure Sensor connector
3) Disconnect the MAP sensor connector to the rear of it
4) Disconnect the Cam Position Sensor (Rear Rt of the valve cover)
5) Disconnect the FPS connector (very rear of fuel rail)

Once all these are disconnected, the loom to the front left and the wires that go behind the alternator will easily pull back towards the LHD driver's location, and be secured out of the way. The wires that remain are Transmission control and ABS wires, that come mostly from the TCM at the RH inner fender, so once you unbolt the reverse J / T shaped wire housing, the whole mess just pivots up and back.

Then you need to deal with the Emissions and Fuel system stuff if it's still there.

When you pull the injectors if they are sticking and have gunk around them, have a helper or wire up close, and running shop vac so gunk doesn't fall down into the cylinders. If you don't HAVE to pull the head due to present damage, it would really suck having to dig out gunk that can jam up a valve and prevent it from working.

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'06 Lbrty Sprt CRD 150K

Sasquatch
DSS Turbo
CAT-elimntr
Weeks Stg1&2 EGRfix
PV-200
BLING
vent gauges

IDParts
head
cams
rockers
Timing set
ARP studs
eTn1 GX2123 5v GPs

YETI Custom Tune
Flowmaster 8325508
Carter P76611M
GM 12611872
Hayden 2986
GM 15976889
PATC Custom Billet
2010 Ram Hemi Trans
Sonnax 44957
Transgo kit
Cooper 51770


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