Quote:
Thanks. Is there any way to remove the harness and flop it out of the way? There is a large bunch of wires going down the side of the motor that is making it just sit on top of the valve cover with no where to move it to. I disconnected everything that I can see to try and move it as far as I can.
Use bungees attached to the hood to hoikem up out of the way
ONly partially done here, as I only needed to remove the fuel rail.
EDITs: Detail and clarity
MAJOR EDIT:.... Especially if you are doing this yourself... For each connector you disconnect. TAG AND MARK IT so you don't get confused putting things back. Most only go one way one place, but there are connectors that can be connected to more than one thing, plus it's just a good habit to get into.
In the photo, to the near left (front RH of the vehicle) There are only 5 connectors.
1) #1 injector connector
2) Coolant Temperature connector (thermostat housing)
3) Viscous Heater Clutch connector
4) MAF connector (Intake air filter box, on top)
5) IAT connector (Intake Air Filter Box, towards the center of the vehicle)
In the photo, to the near right, (Front LH side of the vehicle)
1) Disconnect the battery Ground (or completely remove it)
2) Disconnect the alternator output wire
3) Disconnect the alternator field connector (both at back of alternator
4) Unbolt and remove the alternator and it's rear bracket to the intake manifold.
5) Disconnect the FQS connector at the back of the HP Fuel pump.
6) Disconnect the Flow Control Valve connector
7) Disconnect the ABS and EGR connectors (easier if you have the battery removed)
8 ) Disconnect the cable to the starter and the wire to the solenoid.
9) Disconnect the vacuum line (to the brake booster) where it connects to the vacuum tube (near the engine oil dipstick tube) Cap it so you don't get muck in it. Tape or whatever.
Down the middle:
1) Disconnect all the injector wire connectors
2) Disconnect the Fuel Pressure Sensor connector
3) Disconnect the MAP sensor connector to the rear of it
4) Disconnect the Cam Position Sensor (Rear Rt of the valve cover)
5) Disconnect the FPS connector (very rear of fuel rail)
Once all these are disconnected, the loom to the front left and the wires that go behind the alternator will easily pull back towards the LHD driver's location, and be secured out of the way. The wires that remain are Transmission control and ABS wires, that come mostly from the TCM at the RH inner fender, so once you unbolt the reverse J / T shaped wire housing, the whole mess just pivots up and back.
Then you need to deal with the Emissions and Fuel system stuff if it's still there.
When you pull the injectors if they are sticking and have gunk around them, have a helper or wire up close, and running shop vac so gunk doesn't fall down into the cylinders. If you don't HAVE to pull the head due to present damage, it would really suck having to dig out gunk that can jam up a valve and prevent it from working.