LOST JEEPS :: View topic - Blown turbo seals? or blown oil feed line?

Is the oil running out on the ground or through the CAC?
The drain tube wouldn't cause a sound like that, and is unlikely to plug due to it's large diameter.
It may have come loose from the bottom but still wouldn't make that kind of noise.
If the pressure line kinked or coked off (again unlikely) a free-floating bearing that's seized, could, but ours aren't free floating.
Look at the oil feed line to see of the oil is coming from the banjo fitting there.
When the engine has cooled, pull the filter box and intake hose out, and the turbo-to-CAC hose.
Look in the compressor intake port and see if there's anything stuck between or against any of the inducer blades.
Spin the compressor wheel with a finger, and see if you can feel what you're hearing. There should be no sound, no resistance, shaft centered in opening, and silent free spinning.
Spin it and then push directly in on the center shaft as it's spinning. If it stops immediately you've found the problem.
Grab the compressor housing and see if you can get any movement. It's unlikely but possible that all four compressor housing mounting screws came loose at the same time.
It's REALLY unlikely to be on the turbine side. I don't think it's possible for a vane to come loose.
I really really hope that the cast iron center housing didn't crack, but check for that if no other source of noise and oil.

Your turbo is shot and the amount of oil coming out of it proves this. Take it off now before it grenades. The squeal that you hear is the conpressor wheel rubbing the housing. Also our turbos spin at 64,000 rpms at idle, there max limit is 190,000.

right off the bat I can see a DESIGN FLAW...the oil feed tube is between the turbo (gets hot) and the exhaust manifold (gets hot). So that feed tube is getting cooked constantly with excessive heat, which feeds excessive heated oil into the turbo bearing..........that tube should shielded or wrapped somehow to prevent the turbo and exhaust heat form baking it....(and potentially forming baked on oil build up inside the little tube - restricting the oil flow to the Turbo. ) just a thought....

WWDiesel wrote:

And the oil is lubricating and cooling the turbo bearing! You know it is picking up some heat there as well....

True, and not just inside the turbo bearing housing.
If you follow the un-insulated steel line, it passes several inches of it's length within 1/4" of exhaust manifold and turbine housing, which is commonly 600+ degrees. That's a LOT of heat soak for the oil that passes through it, even before it gets to the bearing housing.

Since I hope to give the Sasquatch turbo every advantage I can to help it last, I pulled the supply line banjo bolt on the top end, and slid this stuff
https://www.amazon.com/Heatshield-Products-201012-Thermal-Sleeve/dp/B000QFQE2C/ref=sr_1_10_m?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1492237480&sr=1-10&keywords=heatshield%2Bproducts%2Bsleeve&th=1
around it all the way to the block fitting, cut to length, and put the bolt back in with 2 new copper washers.

I don't know how much radiant heat it will block, but it could be a few bucks well spent, or at worst, a few bucks wasted. Wouldn't be the first time that's happened though.

ZERO side to side play and only a bit of front to back play . SPINS FREELY by hand no scraping sounds

So have not been here for a while......after the $800 tow bill WOWZA! I worked for a tow company in college, and the only bills I saw in that range were wrecked OTR truck recoveries.

I wanted to wait until the CAD $ improved against the USD....but after almost a year and 10 months so far our $$$ sucks. Which means that the Sasquatch turbo and install kit will cost me about $2000 CAD after exchange rate, shipping, and the lovely Canada Customs taxes, duties and fees......

The jeep has sat. I put it on blocks to take the weight off the Old Man Emu suspension and the new BFG KO2 AT tires that folks loaned me money to buy.

I still have a brand new Cummings fuel pump, and wiring harness , both from Sasquatch Motor-sports, sitting in their boxes on the desk.

All this jeep needs is a new turbo, fuel tank removal drain and flush (and install of the new fuel pump). Its ready for the intake kit, and the egr has always been blocked off with a plate. *Nod*

is it worth me working another year to get a turbo? (i have other monthly expenses, so a scraping together $2000 is a minimum 6 month event.). What about the brake lines? should i flush them with fresh fluid? they have not been used for almost 2 years.....but the rig is parked in the underground (dry, cool)

Send a PM to diesel_guy86
He's got a really sweet turbo upgrade for your OEM Garrett along with a complete rebuild, and a really good price I understand.

Just frustrated.......put literally 5 years of hard earned saved money into this truck ($7000 purchase, then another $6700 when the valves went) .......plus all the other expenses (tires $1500, Moroso crank vent sludge can $130, new battery $150, gallons of hi end synthetic oil, filters $1000, Racor 2 micron fuel filter head and filters $250, custom aluminum roof rack, custom rear cargo rack, Powertank air tanks and kit for the tires, an insane amount spent on recovery gear, spare filters, parts fluids etc..........etc)

I'd like to sell it and get something SIMPLE (small block chevy engine or ford inline 6 4x4) but because this was a purchase and maintenance I did with my Dad (recently passed), i want to get it running again.

Thoughts on the engine sitting so long without running? You said clean, cool, dry... I seriously doubt there would be any problem. I do recommend getting washers and o-rings for the injectors, and remove the injectors and squirt a bit of clean motor oil in at an angle so you get some on the cylinder walls, before starting up. It's gonna smoke, so be ready for that.

thoughts on the brake lines/fluid sitting so long?

Hey ya'll, back again.

Been about four years?

Jeeps still parked, been starting it up for a few minutes every week to keep the fluids circulated and engine oil seals from drying out. (Top it off with oil every time).

Got a turbo coming from Sasquatch Motorsports, (not the factory one), plus his synthetic turbo install oil .

Should I get a shop to install it? Or is it a fairly simple install? I think I need a gasket and some copper nuts.

Author:	Bushman5 [ Sun Jul 30, 2017 12:10 am ]
Post subject:	Blown turbo seals? or blown oil feed line?
OK, long story short, $800 tow from the boonies, (thank god NOT from the top of the mountain , 45 km from the HWY, where I HAD BEEN). Ok what is going on? I heard a loud whistling / shrieking noise, it rose and fell with throttle applications. Sounded like the turbo to me. I was able to limp the truck off the FSR and onto the HWY, and it had some power but was pretty weak. Limped it close to a little village and then it puked oil (about 1 liter) from the tube that goes into the turbo, but possibly from the side the of the turbo too.......I wont know until I remove parts to see better. Oil pressure light never came on and I barely lost a liter of Mobil Delvac ESP Synthetic............It only pukes oil when engine runs, and engine runs FINE (normal operation sounds). Just has a whistle turbo (loud) and spit out oil. Also, on the side of the road where it brokedown, I did unhook the turbo vaccumn modulator, that REDUCED the whistling/whining but DID NOT eliminate it. CAC hoses / air cleaner tube are fine, no rot, no splits, no leaks. Intercooler has no holes in it FYI. Engine runs like a hot darn with normal operation, except no power and the turbo shrieking edit: codes i pulled - NOTE: MAY BE RELATED TO ME PULLING VAC LINES OFF THE turbo solenoid P0045-BOOST PRESSURE SOLENOID EXCESSIVE CURRENT. P0045-BOOST PRESSURE SOLENOID OPEN CIRCUIT . P0299-BOOST PRESSURE SENSOR POSITIVE DEVIATION sigh....more pisssed i had to call my dad for a loan for the tow bill. .

Author:	GordnadoCRD [ Sun Jul 30, 2017 1:34 am ]
Post subject:	Re: Blown turbo seals? or blown oil feed line?
Are you sure it's not a belt whine? Something sounding like a belt-driven supercharger that changes pitch with engine speed? The timing belt is a Gilmer type, that could make a whine or whistle sound if the tensioner or one of the idler pulleys had a failed bearing. The turbo shouldn't be making enough boost at idle or unloaded, to induce a whistle. Not very loud anyway. If you are 1000% certain there is no leak between the turbo compressor and the intake (including the entire CAC unit, both end caps and the intake it's self (MAP sensor, everything)), Then the turbo needs to come off. Most likely one of the wheels may have something touching it that shouldn't be. OR may be contacting the housing if the bearing's worn enough. If a housing mounting screw backs into a wheel, it will scream like a banshee until it seizes up. (without hearing the sound, I'm honestly just going through a mental list though.)

Author:	Bushman5 [ Sun Jul 30, 2017 2:03 am ]
Post subject:	Re: Blown turbo seals? or blown oil feed line?
not a belt whine/shriek.........not coming from the serp or timing belt. I used a 3/4" heater hose held to my ear to isolate it. When I shut the engine down ,you can CLEARLY hear the turbo shrieking/whistling as it spools down (about 20 seconds from 180,000+ rpm to zero) normally i can go 0- 80KM / h in 9 seconds, with power and authority.......Every day i can LAUNCH off the line and leave cars WAY BEHIND ME, SMOOTHLY, WITH A PERFECT DIESEL ROAR. On the hwy i can cruise at 130KM/H and the engine just PURRS, no whistling. I can pass trucks on the freeway , with the jeep spooled up to 140KM/h NO PROB now its got no power, can go no more than 50KM/h and the turbo is just screaming / whistling. But in reality, i cannot go anywhere.....due to the oil puking out from the turbo or the oil feed tube i did take a video sound byte.....gimmie bit to upload it. Im in the cab revving and letting go of the pedal several times....this is PRIOR to the oil puking, about 20KM's before https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=92nOXaS ... e=youtu.be

Author:	GordnadoCRD [ Sun Jul 30, 2017 2:59 am ]
Post subject:	Re: Blown turbo seals? or blown oil feed line?
Is the oil running out on the ground or through the CAC? The drain tube wouldn't cause a sound like that, and is unlikely to plug due to it's large diameter. It may have come loose from the bottom but still wouldn't make that kind of noise. If the pressure line kinked or coked off (again unlikely) a free-floating bearing that's seized, could, but ours aren't free floating. Look at the oil feed line to see of the oil is coming from the banjo fitting there. When the engine has cooled, pull the filter box and intake hose out, and the turbo-to-CAC hose. Look in the compressor intake port and see if there's anything stuck between or against any of the inducer blades. Spin the compressor wheel with a finger, and see if you can feel what you're hearing. There should be no sound, no resistance, shaft centered in opening, and silent free spinning. Spin it and then push directly in on the center shaft as it's spinning. If it stops immediately you've found the problem. Grab the compressor housing and see if you can get any movement. It's unlikely but possible that all four compressor housing mounting screws came loose at the same time. It's REALLY unlikely to be on the turbine side. I don't think it's possible for a vane to come loose. I really really hope that the cast iron center housing didn't crack, but check for that if no other source of noise and oil.

Author:	diesel_guy86 [ Sun Jul 30, 2017 9:18 am ]
Post subject:	Re: Blown turbo seals? or blown oil feed line?
Your turbo is shot and the amount of oil coming out of it proves this. Take it off now before it grenades. The squeal that you hear is the conpressor wheel rubbing the housing. Also our turbos spin at 64,000 rpms at idle, there max limit is 190,000.

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Author:	Bushman5 [ Sun Jul 30, 2017 9:21 am ]
Post subject:	Re: Blown turbo seals? or blown oil feed line?
GordnadoCRD wrote: Is the oil running out on the ground or through the CAC? The drain tube wouldn't cause a sound like that, and is unlikely to plug due to it's large diameter. It may have come loose from the bottom but still wouldn't make that kind of noise. If the pressure line kinked or coked off (again unlikely) a free-floating bearing that's seized, could, but ours aren't free floating. Look at the oil feed line to see of the oil is coming from the banjo fitting there. When the engine has cooled, pull the filter box and intake hose out, and the turbo-to-CAC hose. Look in the compressor intake port and see if there's anything stuck between or against any of the inducer blades. Spin the compressor wheel with a finger, and see if you can feel what you're hearing. There should be no sound, no resistance, shaft centered in opening, and silent free spinning. Spin it and then push directly in on the center shaft as it's spinning. If it stops immediately you've found the problem. Grab the compressor housing and see if you can get any movement. It's unlikely but possible that all four compressor housing mounting screws came loose at the same time. It's REALLY unlikely to be on the turbine side. I don't think it's possible for a vane to come loose. I really really hope that the cast iron center housing didn't crack, but check for that if no other source of noise and oil. puking oil onto the ground, from the front (bumperside) of the turbo, or oil feed line (or oil cooler). Zero oil going into the CAC. Also this thing has had full synthetic oil changes all its life, every 3000 MILES. Since owning it (i'm 3rd owner) I have used nothing but top tier HDEO full synthetic oil and synthetic media filters in it. No sludge, no buildup, you wipe away oil and the engine internals shine bright and clean. diesel_guy86 wrote: Your turbo is shot and the amount of oil coming out of it proves this. Take it off now before it grenades. The squeal that you hear is the conpressor wheel rubbing the housing. Also our turbos spin at 64,000 rpms at idle, there max limit is 190,000. 10-4 on that......the shrieking/whistling at idle is low but quite audible, and increases with RPM's to the point that even inside the jeep with windows up its loud.

Author:	Bushman5 [ Sun Jul 30, 2017 9:27 am ]
Post subject:	Re: Blown turbo seals? or blown oil feed line?
will be tearing it down today. Will post pics

Author:	Bushman5 [ Sun Jul 30, 2017 10:33 am ]
Post subject:	Re: Blown turbo seals? or blown oil feed line?
right off the bat I can see a DESIGN FLAW...the oil feed tube is between the turbo (gets hot) and the exhaust manifold (gets hot). So that feed tube is getting cooked constantly with excessive heat, which feeds excessive heated oil into the turbo bearing..........that tube should shielded or wrapped somehow to prevent the turbo and exhaust heat form baking it....(and potentially forming baked on oil build up inside the little tube - restricting the oil flow to the Turbo. ) just a thought.... no holes, splits of rot. Solid rubber sooty underside of turbo heat shield oil (outside) coated tube ZERO side to side play and only a bit of front to back play . SPINS FREELY by hand no scraping sounds

Author:	flash7210 [ Sun Jul 30, 2017 2:24 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: Blown turbo seals? or blown oil feed line?
I see two things. The oil line fitting on the turbo is leaking. Probably just needs to be tightened but if it continues to leak the two copper washers should be replaced. You also have a exhaust leat at the turbo exhaust clamp.

Author:	GordnadoCRD [ Sun Jul 30, 2017 6:03 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: Blown turbo seals? or blown oil feed line?
Bushman5 wrote: right off the bat I can see a DESIGN FLAW...the oil feed tube is between the turbo (gets hot) and the exhaust manifold (gets hot). So that feed tube is getting cooked constantly with excessive heat, which feeds excessive heated oil into the turbo bearing..........that tube should shielded or wrapped somehow to prevent the turbo and exhaust heat form baking it....(and potentially forming baked on oil build up inside the little tube - restricting the oil flow to the Turbo. ) just a thought.... I have been harping about that for a while now. One such shown below. GordnadoCRD wrote: WWDiesel wrote: And the oil is lubricating and cooling the turbo bearing! You know it is picking up some heat there as well.... True, and not just inside the turbo bearing housing. If you follow the un-insulated steel line, it passes several inches of it's length within 1/4" of exhaust manifold and turbine housing, which is commonly 600+ degrees. That's a LOT of heat soak for the oil that passes through it, even before it gets to the bearing housing. Since I hope to give the Sasquatch turbo every advantage I can to help it last, I pulled the supply line banjo bolt on the top end, and slid this stuff https://www.amazon.com/Heatshield-Products-201012-Thermal-Sleeve/dp/B000QFQE2C/ref=sr_1_10_m?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1492237480&sr=1-10&keywords=heatshield%2Bproducts%2Bsleeve&th=1 around it all the way to the block fitting, cut to length, and put the bolt back in with 2 new copper washers. I don't know how much radiant heat it will block, but it could be a few bucks well spent, or at worst, a few bucks wasted. Wouldn't be the first time that's happened though. Another alternative is the heat shield any parts store sells for shielding spark plug wires from exhaust damage. If money is an issue, just pull off the heat shielding from the EGR exhaust tubes after installation of WEEKS kit, and put that around the oil supply line. Remember to use new banjo fitting washers. Bushman5 wrote: ZERO side to side play and only a bit of front to back play . SPINS FREELY by hand no scraping sounds If you have 1/8" or close movement axially (forwards - backwards), that's going to be enough for the compressor blades to contact the housing. Especially with the exhaust putting pressure on the other end pushing it forwards. much harder than you can do with a finger. 1/8" there is a lot. When you address your exhaust leak, pull the pipe away from the turbine housing, and to the side. then push forwards on the shaft assembly and spin it with your hand. It may take some force to equal the power of the exhaust, but I'm betting that the clearance of the compressor/housing disappears enough to cause that noise at operating RPM.

Author:	Bushman5 [ Sun Jul 30, 2017 8:11 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: Blown turbo seals? or blown oil feed line?
will check play again. probably just going to sideline the jeep for a while, Going to take a few months to pay the tow bill back to Dad. then i'll just replace the turbo, after all its the FACTORY turbo with 271,000+ KM's on it. Going for the Sasquatch unit, it just makes more sense in its design. I'm also going to consult with Seth re: the oil feed pressure tube......I have a design idea to prevent the oil feed pressure tube from heating up from the exhaust manifold and the down pipe heat. There is no way that oil should preheated from 1000 degree exhaust components, before shooting thru the turbo bearing.

Author:	GordnadoCRD [ Sun Jul 30, 2017 11:14 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: Blown turbo seals? or blown oil feed line?
I believe Sasquatch turbo is tops in best value per dollar. It's the one I went with. GDE turbo kit is the best bolt on unit that I know of, price not considered. And is, I believe, a decent price for what you get.

Author:	Bushman5 [ Fri Jan 25, 2019 12:44 am ]
Post subject:	Re: Blown turbo seals? or blown oil feed line?
So have not been here for a while......after the $800 tow bill when the turbo went on the jeep, it was parked and insurance taken off it. Took me a LONG time to pay the folks back for the tow bill... I wanted to wait until the CAD $ improved against the USD....but after almost a year and 10 months so far our $$$ sucks. Which means that the Sasquatch turbo and install kit will cost me about $2000 CAD after exchange rate, shipping, and the lovely Canada Customs taxes, duties and fees...... The jeep has sat. I put it on blocks to take the weight off the Old Man Emu suspension and the new BFG KO2 AT tires that folks loaned me money to buy. I still have a brand new Cummings fuel pump, and wiring harness , both from Sasquatch Motor-sports, sitting in their boxes on the desk. All this jeep needs is a new turbo, fuel tank removal drain and flush (and install of the new fuel pump). Its ready for the intake kit, and the egr has always been blocked off with a plate. is it worth me working another year to get a turbo? (i have other monthly expenses, so a scraping together $2000 is a minimum 6 month event.). What about the brake lines? should i flush them with fresh fluid? they have not been used for almost 2 years.....but the rig is parked in the underground (dry, cool) Just frustrated.......put literally 5 years of hard earned saved money into this truck ($7000 purchase, then another $6700 when the valves went) .......plus all the other expenses (tires $1500, Moroso crank vent sludge can $130, new battery $150, gallons of hi end synthetic oil, filters $1000, Racor 2 micron fuel filter head and filters $250, custom aluminum roof rack, custom rear cargo rack, Powertank air tanks and kit for the tires, an insane amount spent on recovery gear, spare filters, parts fluids etc..........etc) I'd like to sell it and get something SIMPLE (small block chevy engine or ford inline 6 4x4) but because this was a purchase and maintenance I did with my Dad (recently passed), i want to get it running again. Thoughts on the engine sitting so long without running? thoughts on the brake lines/fluid sitting so long?

Author:	GordnadoCRD [ Fri Jan 25, 2019 1:55 am ]
Post subject:	Re: Blown turbo seals? or blown oil feed line?
Bushman5 wrote: So have not been here for a while......after the $800 tow bill WOWZA! I worked for a tow company in college, and the only bills I saw in that range were wrecked OTR truck recoveries. I wanted to wait until the CAD $ improved against the USD....but after almost a year and 10 months so far our $$$ sucks. Which means that the Sasquatch turbo and install kit will cost me about $2000 CAD after exchange rate, shipping, and the lovely Canada Customs taxes, duties and fees...... The jeep has sat. I put it on blocks to take the weight off the Old Man Emu suspension and the new BFG KO2 AT tires that folks loaned me money to buy. I still have a brand new Cummings fuel pump, and wiring harness , both from Sasquatch Motor-sports, sitting in their boxes on the desk. All this jeep needs is a new turbo, fuel tank removal drain and flush (and install of the new fuel pump). Its ready for the intake kit, and the egr has always been blocked off with a plate. Nod is it worth me working another year to get a turbo? (i have other monthly expenses, so a scraping together $2000 is a minimum 6 month event.). What about the brake lines? should i flush them with fresh fluid? they have not been used for almost 2 years.....but the rig is parked in the underground (dry, cool) Send a PM to diesel_guy86 He's got a really sweet turbo upgrade for your OEM Garrett along with a complete rebuild, and a really good price I understand. Just frustrated.......put literally 5 years of hard earned saved money into this truck ($7000 purchase, then another $6700 when the valves went) .......plus all the other expenses (tires $1500, Moroso crank vent sludge can $130, new battery $150, gallons of hi end synthetic oil, filters $1000, Racor 2 micron fuel filter head and filters $250, custom aluminum roof rack, custom rear cargo rack, Powertank air tanks and kit for the tires, an insane amount spent on recovery gear, spare filters, parts fluids etc..........etc) I'd like to sell it and get something SIMPLE (small block chevy engine or ford inline 6 4x4) but because this was a purchase and maintenance I did with my Dad (recently passed), i want to get it running again. Thoughts on the engine sitting so long without running? You said clean, cool, dry... I seriously doubt there would be any problem. I do recommend getting washers and o-rings for the injectors, and remove the injectors and squirt a bit of clean motor oil in at an angle so you get some on the cylinder walls, before starting up. It's gonna smoke, so be ready for that. thoughts on the brake lines/fluid sitting so long? Again, if it's quite dry, it shouldn't be a problem. If you get the brakes hot and they start to stick on, then let them cool off and change the fluid at first chance.

Author:	Bushman5 [ Wed Nov 01, 2023 10:34 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: Blown turbo seals? or blown oil feed line?
Hey crew Back again …. Finally got the turbo and turbo install kit. Spent 7 hours pulling the components to access the turbo. Turbo is finally off!! Install this week!

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Author:	rankom [ Fri Jan 25, 2019 7:32 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: Blown turbo seals? or blown oil feed line?
good to see you back again , sorry about bad luck so hope for better days come , ,regarding turbo problem , take it to turbo rebuilder guy for inspection . cap oil feed line with regular bolt and nut , 8mm and use 2 copper washers , from original banjo bolt , so run it with out turbo and see if any oil comes out from cylinders , but wait for turbo rebuilders to confirm if turbo is bad , because you say no oil in CAC that why i say this. also in previous posted pictures , turbo inpeler did not see any damage and was turning free, so we need more info here

Author:	Bushman5 [ Tue Mar 08, 2022 12:41 am ]
Post subject:	Re: Blown turbo seals? or blown oil feed line?
Hey ya'll, back again. Been about four years? Jeeps still parked, been starting it up for a few minutes every week to keep the fluids circulated and engine oil seals from drying out. (Top it off with oil every time). Got a turbo coming from Sasquatch Motorsports, (not the factory one), plus his synthetic turbo install oil . Should I get a shop to install it? Or is it a fairly simple install? I think I need a gasket and some copper nuts.

Author:	03black [ Tue Mar 08, 2022 12:54 am ]
Post subject:	Re: Blown turbo seals? or blown oil feed line?
You should be able to reuse the exhaust to turbo steel seal but you will need an oil return line gasket. Copper nuts may be able to be reusable but I just went to ace hardware and got some lock washers and regular metric nuts to use instead. If you mechanically inclined you should be able to change out the turbo yourself. There is plenty of "how to's" here or download the service manual and read through it.

Author:	jws84_02 [ Thu Mar 10, 2022 6:32 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: Blown turbo seals? or blown oil feed line?
Bushman5 wrote: Hey ya'll, back again. Been about four years? Jeeps still parked, been starting it up for a few minutes every week to keep the fluids circulated and engine oil seals from drying out. (Top it off with oil every time). Got a turbo coming from Sasquatch Motorsports, (not the factory one), plus his synthetic turbo install oil . Should I get a shop to install it? Or is it a fairly simple install? I think I need a gasket and some copper nuts. Where are you located?

Author:	Bushman5 [ Wed Nov 01, 2023 10:39 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: Blown turbo seals? or blown oil feed line?
Can’t believe it’s been almost 6 or 7 years since the CRD died. Kinda bugs me how life and priorities took over VS me getting this turbo removed and new one I stalled. Mad at myself for spending money on other stuff over the last 5/6/7? Plus years instead of dealing with the Jeep Should have the turbo installed by this weekend. I’m freaking stoked to drive this rig again .