LONG Weekend of maintenance

JPinnell · **Posted:** Mon Jul 31, 2017 9:39 am

I did the following this weekend and it took ALL weekend to do it. About 8hrs Sat and 12hrs Sun.

Changed the Engine Oil
Changed the ATF, pan drop, filters, and about 9qts so far.
All 4 glow plugs and new harness, rodents had trashed the original and I'd patched it previously.
Went back to an OEM thermostat, I'd been running an inline after the original failed.
Weeks Stage 1 & 2 Kits

Glow Plugs were original ceramics. No codes, just preemptive replacement. All looked the same, no missing tips, and actually came out fairly easily. I had to pull the newly installed intake elbow, RTV, etc to reach the #3 so I had to backtrack a little. I went with the Etecno 7v and slathered them pretty heavily with anti seize. Future replacements should be easy with the EGR, FCV, etc out of the way.

Thermo - I couldn't justify the $500 for the space shuttle grade version. All the talk of the inlines being an issue, I just went back to stock. I never saw any overheating with the inline and we don't tow.

Weeks 1/2. Holy Crap am I glad thats behind me. The PDF instructions downplay how thankless this process is. There is no room to work, bolts that are hidden and inaccessible. Much less the Rube Goldberg contraption that is the EGR assembly. I'd been fighting a coolant leak over the winter and I'm glad that is all outta there. GDE Tune went on 2 yrs ago so things should be all good now.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Mon Jul 31, 2017 9:56 am

Well you are on the road to making it a much better and more reliable vehicle! Good Job! :rockon:

Have you added a in-tank lift pump? If not, you may want to consider it, read here: > viewtopic.php?f=5&t=26385
also
Consider adding better fuel filtration after you add a lift pump to protect the expensive CP3 injector pump and those expensive injectors!
read here:> viewtopic.php?f=98&t=80139

:SOMBRERO:

taroo · **Joined:** Sun Apr 27, 2008 2:14 pm **Posts:** 271

WWDiesel wrote:

Well you are on the road to making it a much better and more reliable vehicle! Good Job! :rockon:

Have you added a in-tank lift pump? If not, you may want to consider it, read here: > viewtopic.php?f=5&t=26385
also
Consider adding better fuel filtration after you add a lift pump to protect the expensive CP3 injector pump and those expensive injectors!
read here:> viewtopic.php?f=98&t=80139

:SOMBRERO:

So which liftpump? Carter or Mopar. Both are on the Sasquatch site.

mass-hole · **Posted:** Mon Jul 31, 2017 11:17 am

JPinnell wrote:

I did the following this weekend and it took ALL weekend to do it. About 8hrs Sat and 12hrs Sun.

Changed the Engine Oil
Changed the ATF, pan drop, filters, and about 9qts so far.
All 4 glow plugs and new harness, rodents had trashed the original and I'd patched it previously.
Went back to an OEM thermostat, I'd been running an inline after the original failed.
Weeks Stage 1 & 2 Kits

Glow Plugs were original ceramics. No codes, just preemptive replacement. All looked the same, no missing tips, and actually came out fairly easily. I had to pull the newly installed intake elbow, RTV, etc to reach the #3 so I had to backtrack a little. I went with the Etecno 7v and slathered them pretty heavily with anti seize. Future replacements should be easy with the EGR, FCV, etc out of the way.

Thermo - I couldn't justify the $500 for the space shuttle grade version. All the talk of the inlines being an issue, I just went back to stock. I never saw any overheating with the inline and we don't tow.

Weeks 1/2. Holy Crap am I glad thats behind me. The PDF instructions downplay how thankless this process is. There is no room to work, bolts that are hidden and inaccessible. Much less the Rube Goldberg contraption that is the EGR assembly. I'd been fighting a coolant leak over the winter and I'm glad that is all outta there. GDE Tune went on 2 yrs ago so things should be all good now.

That one is tough for sure. I kinda wish I hadnt incase I ever need it functioning again for some reason. ill likely sell the jeep before I reinstall it.

JPinnell · **Posted:** Mon Jul 31, 2017 5:47 pm

No I'm getting a P0090 code and its in limp mode. This has to do with the fuel pressure regulator which seems to be on the CP3 pump. Did I unplug something? Broken harness? What connector should I be looking for? At first I thought it was slow/doggy because the transmission still needed to purge itself. But after a 5 mile run I've got a MIL and the P0090 code.

GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Mon Jul 31, 2017 7:37 pm

The FQS is on the rear side of the HP fuel injection pump. The servo and connector to it are between the alternator and the AC clutch and pressure switch connectors.

To reach it you will need to disconnect the battery, and either remove the alternator, or remove the CAC to intake hose + battery + alternator + lift the PDC (fuse and relay box) back out of the way. You can do both, but I didn't find it necessary. I've done the Fan Shroud Mod, so the Alternator route is quickest and easiest for me.

Most likely the 2-wire connector has come loose from the solenoid. If that's not the case, you will need to check the wires for voltage-short-grounds
At worst the solenoid needs replaced, but it's not a difficult job. Just a lot of braille to get all 3 torx screws out and back in. Make sure no dirt gets in.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Mon Jul 31, 2017 10:02 pm

taroo wrote:

So which liftpump? Carter or Mopar. Both are on the Sasquatch site.

This one, it is the one that most have installed in the Jeep Liberty CRD!
Never even heard of anyone installing a Mopar Unit! :shock:

https://shop.sasquatchparts.com/product ... 5143160aa/

95Z28A4 · **Joined:** Sun Mar 30, 2014 9:53 am **Posts:** 297

JPinnell wrote:

Weeks 1/2. Holy Crap am I glad thats behind me. The PDF instructions downplay how thankless this process is. There is no room to work, bolts that are hidden and inaccessible. Much less the Rube Goldberg contraption that is the EGR assembly.

The worse part for me was installing that darn little cap on the exhaust manifold. I put a piece of plywood under the jeep to cushion the fall and prevent bending the edges of the cap. I dropped the cap too many times to remember. By the time I finished, my hands and arms were cut and scraped. But......I'd do it again. Getting the EGR crap off the engine was worth the pain.

JPinnell · **Posted:** Mon Jul 31, 2017 11:03 pm

JPinnell wrote:

No I'm getting a P0090 code and its in limp mode. This has to do with the fuel pressure regulator which seems to be on the CP3 pump. Did I unplug something? Broken harness? What connector should I be looking for? At first I thought it was slow/doggy because the transmission still needed to purge itself. But after a 5 mile run I've got a MIL and the P0090 code.

Somehow the plug on the back of the fuel pump became unplugged. Re-seated it, fired it up, reset the MIL, then took a drive. Much peppier and no more MIL or new codes set. All good.

95Z28A4 - Cuts and scrapes!! I was wearing gloves and I still look like I was bare knuckle boxing. Chunks missing here and there. I didn't drop the plug, I guess I had enough RTV slathered on it. I did break the clamp though and thought I was going to have to track one down, but the one from the back of the EGR valve was the same size.

What would "book" time be for the Weeks 1/2. Just curious what a mechanic would charge for this job? Hard to judge how long that part was alone since I did the thermo, fluids, etc at the same time. I was in the shop 5-6hrs Sat and 14hrs on Sunday. Oh well, its done now.

GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Tue Aug 01, 2017 2:57 am

JPinnell wrote:

No I'm getting a P0090 code and its in limp mode. This has to do with the fuel pressure regulator which seems to be on the CP3 pump. Did I unplug something? Broken harness? What connector should I be looking for? At first I thought it was slow/doggy because the transmission still needed to purge itself. But after a 5 mile run I've got a MIL and the P0090 code.

Somehow the plug on the back of the fuel pump became unplugged. Re-seated it, fired it up, reset the MIL, then took a drive. Much peppier and no more MIL or new codes set. All good.

95Z28A4 - Cuts and scrapes!! I was wearing gloves and I still look like I was bare knuckle boxing. Chunks missing here and there. I didn't drop the plug, I guess I had enough RTV slathered on it. I did break the clamp though and thought I was going to have to track one down, but the one from the back of the EGR valve was the same size.

What would "book" time be for the Weeks 1/2. Just curious what a mechanic would charge for this job? Hard to judge how long that part was alone since I did the thermo, fluids, etc at the same time. I was in the shop 5-6hrs Sat and 14hrs on Sunday. Oh well, its done now.

Doubt there is any book time for that, and they would probably charge straight time. I can tell you though, it gets WAY faster the more you do it. By the time I got my fuel system / ECM wiring issues dealt with, I can have the Weeks driver's side, CAC hose, and FQS out of the back of the CP3 in under 10 minutes if the tools are ready.

Taking things apart though, I was constantly reading ahead and double checking myself, as I didn't want to wreck something I would end up needing later, but having done it, it's really not that bad.

I do, however, still have quite a number of scars on my hands and forearms, that I didn't have before.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Tue Aug 01, 2017 11:03 am

About one hour or two provided you don't play around and have good quality correct tools at your disposal like a 1/4" air drive ratchet, 1/4" extensions in various lengths, 1/4" drive metric socket set, 1/4" FLEX-drive metric socket set etc... :wink:

Most decent line mechanics making a living turning wrenches should have them!!! :roll:

Removing the battery and unbolting the fuel filter head assembly after unplugging all the wires; (leaving hoses attached) you can pull it way over out of way and secure with a bungee cord. Doing this gives you much more working room and access to the area where the elbow kit is to be installed! :idea:

On the passenger side of the engine; unbolting the coolant reservoir, pulling it to one side (leaving hoses attached) and securing it with a bungee cord and removing the heat shield off the top of the turbo gives better access to the end of the exhaust manifold where the plug or cap goes to blank off the EGR feed tube! :idea:

TKB4 · **Posted:** Tue Aug 01, 2017 11:11 pm

The weeks kit instructions say estimated 2-4 hours for part one and 3-5 hours for part two. So I guess they are saying 5-9 hours total though you save a little time not having to install the plate on egr if you are doing both at the same time since even though they do not tell you that ahead of time. So if you follow instructions you undo what you just did.

I think first time took me about 4 hours total but I had already looked in on my sons when he did his at different stages and I changed glow plugs.

Second time took me about 3 hours but I was in no hurry and changed glow plugs..

Third and fourth time took me about 2 to 2 1/2 hours each with also changing glow plugs,might have done it faster but I undid everything from above and got everything totally out of the way. On those two however I didn't install the weeks just bought two of the exhaust manifold plugs from ID parts and put on exhaust manifold and on underside of flow control valve, took butterfly valve out of FCV, bought studs and lock washers and nuts for the flow control valve attachment to intake since this makes future access easier and a barb fitting for the y joint at lowes and put coin over the hose adapter to block and permatexed it and screwed it back in. So looks original . costs about $70. Still takes same amount of time as weeks.

HER_CRD · **Posted:** Wed Aug 16, 2017 8:58 pm

I'm looking at doing the timing belt this weekend. Is the EGR delete any easier with the front of the engine tore down?

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JPinnell · **Posted:** Wed Aug 16, 2017 10:32 pm

I did the TB about 3yrs ago. For me I thought it was about the same pain factor as the EGR. TB def has better access overall since most of it is in the front. TB has more pucker factor since you better take your time and get it right or things get expensive fast. Doing the EGR at the same time, you'd have a bit more access, def be able to see better and twist/squeeze in there. If you plan to do both I'd just tear it all apart and tackle it all on a long weekend. Drag all the tools out and make a big mess as opposed to several smaller messes over time..

HER_CRD · **Posted:** Thu Aug 17, 2017 7:43 am

That's pretty much the plan. I'll be at my parents place. Dad has a shop and have all my tools there. I'll work through the weekend and take a few vacation days from work.

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taroo · **Joined:** Sun Apr 27, 2008 2:14 pm **Posts:** 271

HER_CRD wrote:

That's pretty much the plan. I'll be at my parents place. Dad has a shop and have all my tools there. I'll work through the weekend and take a few vacation days from work.

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I did TB, ARP Studs, EGR Delete and Weeks Install, Water Pump, etc all at the same time. Hardest part is getting the blasted intake cover back in without knocking off a rocker. Hahahah
Good luck!

thermorex · **Posted:** Thu Aug 17, 2017 4:00 pm

taroo wrote:

HER_CRD wrote:

That's pretty much the plan. I'll be at my parents place. Dad has a shop and have all my tools there. I'll work through the weekend and take a few vacation days from work.

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I did TB, ARP Studs, EGR Delete and Weeks Install, Water Pump, etc all at the same time. Hardest part is getting the blasted intake cover back in without knocking off a rocker. Hahahah
Good luck!

I used 2 threaded rods with same thread as valve cover bolts that I span few turns in the cyl head in the front and rear, both centered and use them as a guide to slide valve cover over the cyl head. A bolt with the sawed off head would be as good as the threaded rod. I didn't even moved a rocker and it also ensures that the cover gets seated straight over the cyl head.

HER_CRD · **Posted:** Wed Aug 23, 2017 12:24 am

I don't remember ever seeing it said before, so just a heads up for any future reference.

If you do the Weeks 2 kit, the EGR block off plate in the Weeks 1 kit is no longer used because the EGR cooler is removed.

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taroo · **Joined:** Sun Apr 27, 2008 2:14 pm **Posts:** 271

HER_CRD wrote:

I don't remember ever seeing it said before, so just a heads up for any future reference.

If you do the Weeks 2 kit, the EGR block off plate in the Weeks 1 kit is no longer used because the EGR cooler is removed.

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Eh!?

You must block off the tube where the exhaust is coming around from the back of the engine and is/was feeding the input to the EGR. If not you will have a 1-1/2 inch pipe blowing exhaust into the engine bay. No?

jws84_02 · **Posted:** Wed Aug 23, 2017 7:39 am

taroo wrote:

HER_CRD wrote:

I don't remember ever seeing it said before, so just a heads up for any future reference.

If you do the Weeks 2 kit, the EGR block off plate in the Weeks 1 kit is no longer used because the EGR cooler is removed.

Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk

Eh!?

You must block off the tube where the exhaust is coming around from the back of the engine and is/was feeding the input to the EGR. If not you will have a 1-1/2 inch pipe blowing exhaust into the engine bay. No?

The weeks stage 2 kit provides a cap to put on the exhaust manifold

LONG Weekend of maintenance

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