2006 CRD stalls, won't start.

kjjohn95 · **Joined:** Fri Mar 04, 2016 1:15 am **Posts:** 11

I have a 2006 Liberty CRD, which is having an intermittent stalling/no start problem. I can drive it all day with no problems whatsoever, then suddenly while idling at a stop light it will stall, and won't start. After waiting about 20-30 minutes it will start again. I have a P0093 code, and I had the original fuel filter head, so I assumed that was the problem. I replaced the filter head with the upgraded version from IDParts, and that seemed to fix the problem for a while, but now it is doing the same thing. I have no idea what is causing this, and I have no other codes other than some emissions codes from disabling the EGR. This problem is almost dangerous, because every time it has stalled on me it has been at a stop light in heavy traffic. Any ideas?

flash7210 · **Posted:** Fri Aug 04, 2017 8:54 am

Your symptoms indicate a bad crank sensor.
Start there.

kjjohn95 · **Joined:** Fri Mar 04, 2016 1:15 am **Posts:** 11

I've heard that the crank position sensor can intermittently fail due to high temperature, I'll pull it out and see if I can test it. I should also note that the stalling only seems to occur when the vehicle is idling stopped, if I'm on the gas it won't stall (so far anyway). Another thing I noticed is that when I pump the fuel primer, I can get it to where only pure diesel is coming out of the bleeder, but after just 5 mins or so of sitting the primer is soft again.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Fri Aug 04, 2017 10:37 am

With crank position sensor off the vehicle hook it to a volt/ohm meter to measure resistance; apply heat to sensor with like a hair dryer; if resistance goes nuts when sensor is hot then sensor is bad.

kjjohn95 · **Joined:** Fri Mar 04, 2016 1:15 am **Posts:** 11

Alright thanks, I'll try that. The fuel primer softening so quickly still concerns me a bit, but I'm not sure if that's normal or not, I would imagine it would be nothing to do with the filter head since I just put in the upgraded head.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Fri Aug 04, 2017 12:22 pm

kjjohn95 wrote:

Alright thanks, I'll try that. The fuel primer softening so quickly still concerns me a bit, but I'm not sure if that's normal or not, I would imagine it would be nothing to do with the filter head since I just put in the upgraded head.

AIR IN FUEL IS NOT NORMAL and can cause some serious issues especially in the injectors not to mention all the running problems it causes! :roll:

One of the top and most popular mods for the Jeep CRD is to install an in-tank lift pump. The Jeep CRD has all the necessary factory installed wiring all the way to a connector under the rear seat including a relay in the Power Center and the correct OBC logic. Many owners have done this!
It will solve ALL air in fuel problems for good as it puts the entire fuel system under pressure so NO air can be ingested into the diesel fuel. :BANANA:

Review this older thread for all the details:> viewtopic.php?f=5&t=26385

Seth at SasquatchParts.com sells all the necessary parts to add an in-tank fuel pump...
https://shop.sasquatchparts.com/vehicle ... el-system/

:SOMBRERO:

papaindigo · **Posted:** Fri Aug 04, 2017 12:44 pm

As wwdiesel notes air in fuel = bad and a pump in the tank is a good solution. FYI even with a 2n gen filter head you could be getting air from the quick disconnects back at the tank.

I'm curious though. Are you using the correct bleeding procedure? Pump primer until hard; crack bleeder; close bleeder - repeat cycle until no more air comes out (a bit of clear vinyl tube on bleeder leading to catch can keeps the mess down and lets you see air coming out). If not do so. Once done the primer should stay firm but not hard after driving. If it gets really soft repeat bleeding procedure. If more air comes out look into in tank pump.

kjjohn95 · **Joined:** Fri Mar 04, 2016 1:15 am **Posts:** 11

I am using the correct bleeding procedure. I am aware of the in tank pump mod, and while I'd like to do this I don't really have the money right now to get the parts. I was thinking of cutting out the quick connect fittings on the tank as well and replacing them with hose and hose clamps. The strange thing is that when it stalls I can bleed the filter head till pure diesel with no air is coming out, but it still won't start until I wait 20-30 mins.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Fri Aug 04, 2017 2:13 pm

Ok as I understand it you have 2 issues associated with vehicle stalls and won't immediately restart.
1. air in the fuel filter head but even when it's bleed you
2. have to wait 20-30 minutes before it will restart. BUT the stall and restart problems started before you installed a 2n gen filter head.

Given #2 your stall and no restart unless you wait is very likely a failing crank position sensor. 066882AA or Bosch 0281002434 also apparently Standard Motor Products PC766 or Airtex 5S7000.

Continued air in the filter head with a 2n gen filter head (assuming the filter in not double gasketed on the inner shaft and that the WIF sensor and bleed screws are tight) is probably related to the quick disconnects. Yes you can drop the tank and replace them with a bit of marine grade diesel rated fuel line and clamps (NOTE you only need to replace the fuel feed line disconnects not the return line ones). If you do so consider an inline fuel pump like a Facet 40109 or single Kennedy Duramax lift pump or probably a NAPA AFP E3309. Not as "good" as in tank but should be fine with quick disconnects removed.

kjjohn95 · **Joined:** Fri Mar 04, 2016 1:15 am **Posts:** 11

Thanks for the help, I think I'm going to test the crank sensor, and if that does not fix the problem I will probably replace the fuel lines near the tank.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Fri Aug 04, 2017 3:36 pm

Once you bleed the air out of the fuel, it should start right up! You got something else going on there with that waiting thing and the crank sensor is the likely culprit. :roll:

If you got an Autozone nearby, they sell a crank sensor for your Jeep CRD for the best price you will find most anywhere, $50 bucks, and it comes with a lifetime warranty!
Also, it will be an OEM Bosch part in the Duralast Box... Part Number: SU8492

And yes, you can drop the tank and replace the fuel line suction line with marine grade rubber hose and screw type clamps to stop any air leaks at the push on fittings. :wink:

but please think about installing a lift pump down the road at some point.....
:SOMBRERO:

kjjohn95 · **Joined:** Fri Mar 04, 2016 1:15 am **Posts:** 11

How difficult is it to find and replace the crank sensor? I know it is somewhere near the turbo downpipe, is it easier to access it from the top and remove thecoolant tank, or go from under the jeep? I can't see it looking from the top but I might not be looking in exactly the right spot.

GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Fri Aug 04, 2017 9:39 pm

It's covered by a reflective heat shield up against the back of the block. All you can see with the shield in place is the wires and possibly connector.
If you can undo the compression clamp and pop the exhaust pipe loose from the turbo, it's pretty easy to get to from the bottom once the pipe is moved over (right side) about an inch.
Papaindigo has posted a picture of it's location, but with all the images messed up, I have no idea how to link it anymore.
I'm sure either he or WWDiesel have it handy. :wink:

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Fri Aug 04, 2017 10:01 pm

This is the location of the crank sensor!
It can be accessed from the bottom ove the vehicle.
Removing the exhaust down pipe is not necessary, it is a tight fit to get in there and change it, but it is doable...
It is under the silver heat shield behind the turbo, see pictures:

kjjohn95 · **Joined:** Fri Mar 04, 2016 1:15 am **Posts:** 11

Thank you, I have relatively small hands so I should be able to reach it haha.

kjjohn95 · **Joined:** Fri Mar 04, 2016 1:15 am **Posts:** 11

So I have the crank sensor out of the block, but the problem I'm running in to is unplugging the wiring harness. I've literally spent an hour trying to unplug the darn thing. Are there any tricks to get it out? Also, when I pulled out the sensor I realized a small washer was stuck to the magnet end of it. Could this be from the bolt that was holding it in?

kjjohn95 · **Joined:** Fri Mar 04, 2016 1:15 am **Posts:** 11

Well I was able to remove the sensor entirely. I hooked it up to my multimeter and with no heat applied I was reading a steady 918 ohms. I applied heat with a blow dryer, and the resistance didn't jump all over, but it did increase rather quickly to well over 1000 ohms. Would this signify a failed sensor?

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sat Aug 05, 2017 4:32 pm

I would simply replace it! I have never really trusted the blow dryer test myself, but to each his own.... :wink:

The problem is the crank position sensor failure can come and go.... :roll:

p3t3 · **Joined:** Tue Jun 12, 2012 10:21 am **Posts:** 3

check connector on fuel soln in top rear of engine /( that was my problem - took me 2 months to find it)

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2006 CRD stalls, won't start.

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