I'm presently away from home. I took a five hour trio to Tampa and back to the east coast of Florida. Lots of stop and go driving and coolant temp was up at 3/4 but went back to half after traffic.

Went out to eat, shut vehicle off. Got back out and was running rough. It made no power though I was able get it to get up to speed very slowly. Very little reaction to gas pedal input.

No CEL though I have an ABS light for some front bearing work I did. No diagnosis tools here.

So did I fry the turbo? I have the Green diesel tune, Sasquatch 1 and 2, do have the small GDE scan tool if that can help.

Ideas or do I need to get a rental, drive home and get the truck and trailer?

If it were in limp mode, a code would be set.
If it were a bad turbo, you would get a P0299 underboost code.
In most situations with your symptoms, a code would be set.

At the very least, check for air in fuel.
Otherwise, restart and confirm symptoms and scan for codes.

_________________
U.S. Army Retired

Ok, is there a quick simple way to check for air in fuel?

If you have a 11mm wrench available, pump up the plunger on the fuel filter (engine off), open the bleed screw, and see if air comes out.
Otherwise, pump up the plunger till it's firm and start the engine and see if it runs any better.

_________________
U.S. Army Retired

I did that, pumped primer, it got firm. Did not open bleed screw. Started up and drove without issue. Not a problem. Power was there.

If the vehicle has 200,980 miles on it, do I need to investigate a lift pump?

I'd like to avoid this situation if at all possible!

And THANK YOU for the help!

Going to add this next issue here. The truck made it home ok, no more issues. Really weird.

Next up, when we did the front wheel bearings, we took the battery out to access the ABS cable inside the engine compartment. Hooped everything back up, but now have the ABS light on. I may be able to clear that, don't know...but:

The odometer isn't reading anymore and the upper console information is not recording. In other words, I can see the information, but the odometer is stuck, not moving. Can see the numbers but they are not increasing. The console information is all at 0 and won't change.

Anyone familiar with these issues. I'm wondering if that is a function of disconnecting the battery. Damaged the computer (ECU?)

Another possible cause of the ABS and Brake lights on, is the wire(s) into the connector on the top of the Differential. One or both tend to break or not make good contact. This will also stop the instrument panel to no longer register trip etc and you consumption indication will increase the more you drive. If the next time you start your motor, the ABS light goes out, and comes on after going over a bump, then it is probably a flaky contact at the Diff speed sensor.

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2005 Cherokee 2.8 CRD Extreem Sport. Brazil built.

Just curious. Does the speedometer work?

Doubt that the problem is in ECU more likely lack of ECU input information. However when removing and replacing battery always hook up the negative cable first. I personally avoid charging the battery while it is hooked up to the vehicle. I try to avoid jumping other vehicles also but I have .

I would also check all fuses and relays .

It does sound like it could be related to a speed sensor but ABS sensors also compare relative wheel speeds so I guess the work on one could affect all that but in that area there are much more knowledgeable members than I.

I would at least install an external lift pump . You can do this for about $50 by getting a Facet 40109 and installing in engine compartment under battery tray. Takes about thirty minutes. Just hook up two fuel lines and 2 per leads. I would also run a new rubber fuel line like fuel injector 3/8 inch all the way to metal line from tank and this will eliminate all but one possible location for air to intrude. Takes another 30 minutes or so.

_________________
05 Blu LIM, OME GDE Tbo, wk II 245/75/17, KC Lights, bull bar, 195K H TC
05 Blu Lim, Dayton, GDE HT, 255/75/18 , 210K , H TC
06 Bla Lim, GDE Eco, Destination AT 245/75/17, 151K, H TC
06 D Khaki Lim 126K wkII Eur TC
05 D khaki Lim 145k refurbishing
All CRDS: Fumoto, Lift , Fan Shroud mod, fuel head Gen II, SAMCOS,self TB, 2 Mic filt, Hayden

You have a bad ABS sensor.
First, pull the front wheels off and inspect the wires from the ABS sensor.
One of them may rubbed against the wheel and worn all the insulation off.
It happened to me once after doing my brakes.

_________________
U.S. Army Retired

Speedometer works.
So am I understanding that one or the other ABS sensor is bad? We unplugged the sensors after finally getting at them in the engine compartment. While unplugged, had to turn the car to accessory to get the wheel to turn to get at the back of the wheels. Both bearing units were replaced.

I did have to move the plastic attachment points and that may have torn the cover of the cable, but didn't cut the wire.

But the point is, I have a non working odometer and all the readouts in the console read 0.

On the positive side, no more issues in terms of drivability or limp home mode!

If you have a 2005, there are 3 ABS sensors. Two front and one rear.
If you have a 2006, there are 4 sensors.

Any one of them could be bad.
Because you last did work on your front hubs I would check there first.

_________________
U.S. Army Retired

i have a 2005 so three of them. Those sensors and wires are new on the new bearing units, but am going to order a pair from Rock Auto and hopefully be done with it!
So weird that it affects the odometer!

Regarding your first post about "limp mode", the same happened to me over a period of time. Thanks to this forum I suspected the Crankshaft Position Sensor (CPS).I replaced the CPS and had no problems since.

_________________
Ludi Neethling
South Africa
2005 Jeep KJ CRD 2.8 (6 M/T)
Susp:Ironman Coils, Shocks new bushes and ball joints
Therm: Replaced
EGR: Cleaned, re-installed
CCV Catch Can
MAP sensor: Cleaned
Injectors: Repl
Alt pulley: Repl
Serp Belt: Repl
Crank Pos Sens: Replaced
T/B & W/P: Repl @ 200k Km
Repl Cer GP with Etechno 7V GP 212k Km
Repl CCV

On mine the motor started to cut out, so i also replaced the CPS...that's the one by the turbo, right? There's a camshaft positioning sensor but I haven't found that one or replaced it yet.

Top rear corner of the valve cover. Reads from the back of the exhaust cam.

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'06 Lbrty Sprt CRD 150K

Sasquatch
DSS Turbo
CAT-elimntr
Weeks Stg1&2 EGRfix
PV-200
BLING
vent gauges

IDParts
head
cams
rockers
Timing set
ARP studs
eTn1 GX2123 5v GPs

YETI Custom Tune
Flowmaster 8325508
Carter P76611M
GM 12611872
Hayden 2986
GM 15976889
PATC Custom Billet
2010 Ram Hemi Trans
Sonnax 44957
Transgo kit
Cooper 51770

Camshaft Position Sensor Location:
Item 31 in schematic.
Top Rear of intake cover on exhaust side.

_________________
Supporting Vendor and Moderator of LOST
05 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited
Ironman Springs/Bilstein/Shocks
Yeti StgIV Hot Tune
Week's BatteryTray
No FCV/EGR
Samcos/ProVent
SunCoast/Transgo
Carter Intank-pmp
2mic.Sec.Fuel Filter
Flowmaster/NO CAT
V6Airbox/noVH
GM11 Bld.fan/HDClutch
IronrockArms/wwdieselMount
98 Dodge Cummins 24 Valve

Awesome descriptions. Definitely time to change that as a maintenance item in any case?
Thank you!!