Sticking automatic transmission??

bigkahuna · **Joined:** Sat Apr 16, 2016 9:17 am **Posts:** 44

I have a 2005 CRD sport with about 100K miles on it. I've had it for a year, but until about a month ago my wife used it exclusively. She has a new car so the CRD is now mine (for better or worse). The other day I was leaving a parking lot and when I tried to stop it seemed that the automatic transmission wouldn't -release- and as I pressed on the brakes the engine, which was still in gear, was struggling not to stall. I grabbed the shifter and had to almost force it into neutral. I sat there revving the engine in neutral for a minute or so and then the transmission seemed to be working fine so I continued driving. After about 300 miles of driving it's happened 3 or 4 times without warning, although it seems to happen most often after I leave the jeep parked for a few hours. Any idea what might be causing this?

papaindigo · **Posted:** Sat Aug 19, 2017 4:21 pm

And when was the transmission last serviced with ATF+4? If not recent do it. If recent add 1qt ATF+4; tranny likes overfill and hates underfill.

bigkahuna · **Joined:** Sat Apr 16, 2016 9:17 am **Posts:** 44

papaindigo wrote:

And when was the transmission last serviced with ATF+4? If not recent do it. If recent add 1qt ATF+4; tranny likes overfill and hates underfill.

No idea when it was last done. I've only owned the CRD for a year. Level is just over the full mark. Any idea what it would cost to have someone else do it?

papaindigo · **Posted:** Sat Aug 19, 2017 6:09 pm

No clue but then it's a very common DCJ transmission so any decent tranny shop can do it. Just be sure they use ATF+4, no "universal" fluid, and name brand filters, WIX has a set (pan gasket and both filters).

PS standard practice when buying a used vehicle with no history is change every fluid; check brakes; etc.

GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Sat Aug 19, 2017 11:14 pm

bigkahuna wrote:

I have a 2005 CRD sport with about 100K miles on it. I've had it for a year, but until about a month ago my wife used it exclusively. She has a new car so the CRD is now mine (for better or worse). The other day I was leaving a parking lot and when I tried to stop it seemed that the automatic transmission wouldn't -release- and as I pressed on the brakes the engine, which was still in gear, was struggling not to stall. I grabbed the shifter and had to almost force it into neutral. I sat there revving the engine in neutral for a minute or so and then the transmission seemed to be working fine so I continued driving. After about 300 miles of driving it's happened 3 or 4 times without warning, although it seems to happen most often after I leave the jeep parked for a few hours. Any idea what might be causing this?

Other than in park or neutral, an automatic trans never really releases.
The only thing that allows the feeling of release is the slip of the torque converter, which should, at idle, be barely creeping forward with no throttle and no brake.
If it's dragging enough to stall the engine, then internal converter bearings are worn, and it's likely going to need more than just a service.
One thing I've noticed with my own, is the 2-1 downshift sometimes doesn't happen until after I've completely stopped, then released the brake to continue forward.
It doesn't try to kill the engine though.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sun Aug 20, 2017 7:20 am

Worn out plungers and plunger bores in the front pump assembly can stick and keep the torque converter in full lockup when coming to a stop. These transmissions are known for this stall the engine problem.
Mine did this before I had the front pump assembly replaced while we had the transmission out to install a SunCoast torque converter.
Several members of this forum have reported this stall non/lockup release issue in the past. :roll:

I learned to bump mine into neutral real quick when it did this, come to a complete stop, then place it back in drive and drive on. It always seemed to do right after first starting the Jeep, after it had been setting for several hours, and driving for a few hundred feet. :shock:

100% cure, replace the front pump assembly with a new one. If you decide to replace the front pump assembly, think seriously about upgrading the weak factory torque converter while you got the transmission out. No labor costs involved to replace the TC with a new one since you already got the transmission out anyway. :wink:

Talk to a good transmission shop, they can guide you on costs for repairs and upgrades....

Need advice, just ask on this forum....

:SOMBRERO:

bigkahuna · **Joined:** Sat Apr 16, 2016 9:17 am **Posts:** 44

WWDiesel wrote:

Worn out plungers and plunger bores in the front pump assembly can stick and keep the torque converter in full lockup when coming to a stop. These transmissions are known for this stall the engine problem.
Mine did this before I had the front pump assembly replaced while we had the transmission out to install a SunCoast torque converter.
Several members of this forum have reported this stall non/lockup release issue in the past. :roll:

I learned to bump mine into neutral real quick when it did this, come to a complete stop, then place it back in drive and drive on. It always seemed to do right after first starting the Jeep, after it had been setting for several hours, and driving for a few hundred feet. :shock:

100% cure, replace the front pump assembly with a new one. If you decide to replace the front pump assembly, think seriously about upgrading the weak factory torque converter while you got the transmission out. No labor costs involved to replace the TC with a new one since you already got the transmission out anyway. :wink:

Talk to a good transmission shop, they can guide you on costs for repairs and upgrades....

Need advice, just ask on this forum....

:SOMBRERO:

That sounds -exactly- like my problem. Any idea what it should cost to replace the front pump assembly?

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sun Aug 20, 2017 8:08 am

bigkahuna wrote:

That sounds -exactly- like my problem. Any idea what it should cost to replace the front pump assembly?

Check with a good local transmission repair shop for costs as they vary from different locations and parts of the country depending on labor rates. :wink:

The prices for the parts can be found on-line if you google them...

bigkahuna · **Joined:** Sat Apr 16, 2016 9:17 am **Posts:** 44

WWDiesel wrote:

bigkahuna wrote:

That sounds -exactly- like my problem. Any idea what it should cost to replace the front pump assembly?

Check with a good local transmission repair shop for costs as they vary from different locations and parts of the country depending on labor rates. :wink:

The prices for the parts can be found on-line if you google them...

Finding a -good- shop where I'm located is a challenge. Wasn't able to find the pump on line but I did find a torque converter for $553. So I'm guessing anything more than just changing the filter and fluid will cost at least $1K. Ouch.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Mon Aug 21, 2017 8:43 am

Google this PN: 68009879AB :google:

Many online retailers list them such as this one:> https://www.moparpartsoverstock.com/p/_ ... 879AE.html

Transmission front pump 68009879AB (RL009879AE)
Severe wear of the TC limit valve bore in the front pump housing results in loss of converter release oil pressure. Reduced release pressure at low speed and idle can drag the converter linings, causing engine surge, pulsation or stall.
The torque converter limit valve spring in the 45RFE, 545RFE front pump can often break. This valve limits converter release pressure. A broken spring can cause the valve to become stuck and result in converter clutch release issues including engine stalls at low speeds.
Chrysler vehicles equipped with 45RFE, 545RFE and 68RFE transmissions often experience TCC related troubles. These may or may not include trouble codes accompanied by TC clutch slip, no lockup, overheating and / or loss of fuel economy. In some cases, the TC clutches may be unable to release TC lockup, resulting in improper lockup functions and / or complete engine stalling. Problems such as these can be caused by excess wear in the TCC switch valve bore, which allows vital control pressure to escape the circuit. Replacing the complete transmission oil pump assembly with a new updated assembly or reconditioning the bores with the proper tools and installing an oversized TCC switch valve kit can restore crucial clearances for renewed TCC control and operation.

:SOMBRERO:

bigkahuna · **Joined:** Sat Apr 16, 2016 9:17 am **Posts:** 44

Just talked with the only transmission shop in town that had good reviews. Based on what I told him, he thinks it's a solenoid for the transmission. He's worked on tons of transmissions like this and he said this is a common problem. To replace the solenoid, transmission fluid and filter would be $750. Sound right?

flash7210 · **Posted:** Mon Aug 21, 2017 12:55 pm

That seems like a fair price.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Mon Aug 21, 2017 1:23 pm

Depending on how deep he has to go into transmission and the price of the parts if he is supplying them.
Could be a very fair price...

GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Mon Aug 21, 2017 6:19 pm

You can buy a master rebuild kit for the 545rfe for 250-300 dollars, so I wouldn't pay any more than that.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/45RFE-5-45RFE-545RFE-Dodge-Chrysler-Jeep-Transmission-Master-Rebuild-Kit-1999-ON-/191575172990

You can get a quality remanufactured trans for $1200 + core, and R&R is 800ish.
So if he can fix it by pulling the pan, you're paying him for what he knows, not what he's doing.

bigkahuna · **Joined:** Sat Apr 16, 2016 9:17 am **Posts:** 44

Quote:

...So if he can fix it by pulling the pan, you're paying him for what he knows, not what he's doing.

Could you explain what you mean by this? My understanding from my conversation over the phone is that he can replace the solenoid by pulling the pan. Are you saying he's over charging me? If so, what should the cost be? If this is a relatively simple fix what solenoid would I need?

GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Mon Aug 21, 2017 7:27 pm

I"m not saying he's overcharging you. He's given you an experienced estimate based on a phone call.
Once he gets the pan dropped, he may find some other problem, and may charge you more for that.
But if he's able to fix it by pulling the pan, he's going to charge you book time, even if it takes him only half of that or less.
This would be because of his knowledge and experience.
Thus,
you're paying him for what he knows, not what he does. This is generally not a bad thing. It may sound unfair, but I believe an experienced tradesman should not be penalized for being good at what they do.

An inexperienced person charging a lesser rate per hour, may in fact cost you more by charging actual time, which would likely be more than book time, and have a greater chance of doing inferior work.

Sorry I gave the wrong impression. I just wanted to point out that a complete used trans with low mileage and a warranty can be had, delivered to you, in the $800-$1000 range, and a complete Reman for a little more than that.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Mon Aug 21, 2017 9:51 pm

Experience is an obscure commodity to say the least!
Lessons learned along with flat rate shortcuts that saves the technician time when repairing a vehicle is how he makes his money to support himself and his family so please don't fault him for charging you for his hard learned experience as long as the shop does not overcharge you!
Been in those shoes, so I can relate!
If they charge you a fair price to repair your problem and stand behind their work and you are happy; all is well.... :roll:

Sticking automatic transmission??

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