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 Post subject: ticking sound.
PostPosted: Wed Aug 30, 2017 2:59 pm 
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Posts: 39
Hi all.
I have a ticking sound or vibration noise. Sounds like it comes from bottom of engine. It is loudest on passenger side. It is reduced / gone when engine is either very cold or very warm.
Any ideas on cause and solution?
Thanks a lot.

_________________
Problems:
oil leak near egr, egr cooler
stripped oil pan plug leaking
p0101
p0299
ticking sound


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 Post subject: Re: ticking sound.
PostPosted: Wed Aug 30, 2017 5:29 pm 
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The first thing that popped into my mind was to check the motor mount. Can be loose, can be cracked, can have something inside that rattles about.

Beyond that, it would be helpful to know if you have either or both Weeks kits installed. (what egr components are left)

Serpentine belts, can develop cracks / defects that will make many odd noises.

Does your power steeriing fluid reservoir have proper level?

Engine vibration can cause the transmission dipstick to tick against the coolant recovery tank, and, if present, the engine cover. If it's popped out, it can also tick against the end of the tube.

_________________
'06 Lbrty Sprt CRD 147Kmi

Sasquatch
DSS Turbo
CAT-elimntr
Weeks Stg1&2 EGRfix
PV-200
BLING
vent gauge mount

IDParts New
head
cams
rockers
Timing set
ARP studs
eTn1 GX2123 5v GPs

Flowmaster 942550
Carter P76611M
GM 12611872
Hayden 2986
GM 15017911
2010 Trans
Sonnax 44957
Transgo kit
AHS 45T TC
Cooper 51770

Future plans: GDE Trans&Hot-tune


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 Post subject: Re: ticking sound.
PostPosted: Fri Sep 01, 2017 1:48 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 16, 2007 10:54 pm
Posts: 36
Location: VT
I too have a RPM based ticking sound that I can't track down...

From the outside it sounds like a badly ticking lifter/valvetrain sound. Lift the hood and stick your ear on the top of the motor and you can't hear it. You can hear it more under the motor.

I just replaced both motor mounts, and both rattled when removed. Didn't help the tick.

Any thoughts?

_________________
06 Liberty Limited CRD - homemade airbox intake, scotch-brite CCV + EHM, Weeks Stage 1+2, Yeti stage 2 ECM, GDE ECO TCM, FTC billet TC, Transgo kit, no mechanical fan, Cummins lift pump, 2.5" catback - OME 790/948 springs, JBA top plate, 3 upper rear insulators, Bilstein 24-139168 front, 24-186704 rear, 245/75R16, 1.25" wheelspacers


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 Post subject: Re: ticking sound.
PostPosted: Fri Sep 01, 2017 10:34 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jan 30, 2017 2:24 pm
Posts: 2
I had a exhaust ticking leak sound tracked it down to #4 injector crush washer leak. I would check them. Easy job after I got injector out that's the fun part.


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 Post subject: Re: ticking sound.
PostPosted: Sat Sep 02, 2017 10:47 am 
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Joined: Sat Aug 24, 2013 11:36 pm
Posts: 2975
Location: Central GA
For tracking down a noise or tick, get yourself a mechanics stethoscope, they are invaluable for finding elusive noises around engines! :wink:
They are inexpensive and available at many places that sell tools like Harbor Freight, Northern Tool, Autozone, etc...

Image

_________________
2005 Jeep LibertyCRD Limited :JEEPIN:
Blk Brush Guard/Hella's
Ironman Springs/Bilstein's
Yeti Stage4 MaxTune
Weeks ElbowKit & Battery Tray
NO FCV/EGR
Samcos/ProVent
SunCoast&Transgo
Carter Intank-pump
2mic. Sec.Fuel Filter
Flowmaster/NOcat,
V6 Airbox
GM11 blade fan / Hayden HD clutch
98 Dodge Cummins, 5"exh. Viair, Huge K&N


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 Post subject: Re: ticking sound.
PostPosted: Tue Sep 05, 2017 12:59 am 
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Joined: Sat Oct 01, 2016 9:48 pm
Posts: 39
GordnadoCRD wrote:
The first thing that popped into my mind was to check the motor mount. Can be loose, can be cracked, can have something inside that rattles about.

Beyond that, it would be helpful to know if you have either or both Weeks kits installed. (what egr components are left)

Serpentine belts, can develop cracks / defects that will make many odd noises.

Does your power steeriing fluid reservoir have proper level?

Engine vibration can cause the transmission dipstick to tick against the coolant recovery tank, and, if present, the engine cover. If it's popped out, it can also tick against the end of the tube.


power steering is great.
the engine cover is gone.
I will need to check the transmission dipstick. I'm not optimistic this is it.

I tuned out the egr. no weeks kit. off topic: is stage 1 or stage 2 weeks kit easier to install?

A shop said the mounts are fine. If it were mounts would noise go away when motor hot?

_________________
Problems:
oil leak near egr, egr cooler
stripped oil pan plug leaking
p0101
p0299
ticking sound


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: ticking sound.
PostPosted: Tue Sep 05, 2017 1:01 am 
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Joined: Sat Oct 01, 2016 9:48 pm
Posts: 39
J03lz wrote:
I had a exhaust ticking leak sound tracked it down to #4 injector crush washer leak. I would check them. Easy job after I got injector out that's the fun part.

I do have some fuel from #1 injector visible on top of engine. Would crush washer leak cause this?

_________________
Problems:
oil leak near egr, egr cooler
stripped oil pan plug leaking
p0101
p0299
ticking sound


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: ticking sound.
PostPosted: Tue Sep 05, 2017 1:35 am 
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Joined: Sat Aug 27, 2016 9:12 pm
Posts: 1126
Location: N. Muddle Oregon Coast
carbcoma wrote:
GordnadoCRD wrote:
The first thing that popped into my mind was to check the motor mount. Can be loose, can be cracked, can have something inside that rattles about.

Beyond that, it would be helpful to know if you have either or both Weeks kits installed. (what egr components are left)

Serpentine belts, can develop cracks / defects that will make many odd noises.

Does your power steeriing fluid reservoir have proper level?

Engine vibration can cause the transmission dipstick to tick against the coolant recovery tank, and, if present, the engine cover. If it's popped out, it can also tick against the end of the tube.


power steering is great.
the engine cover is gone.
I will need to check the transmission dipstick. I'm not optimistic this is it.

I tuned out the egr. no weeks kit. My thought relative to this, That an exhaust leak can often make a ticking sound very much like a failed hydraulic tappet. If the tube that passes from the rear of the exhaust manifold, around the back of the head to the EGR valve, can have a split, crack, rust hole, or other leak, even if the EGR valve is electronically disabled, it will make an RPM frequency sound, quite like a ticking noise. The Weeks 2 is the kit that disables the exhaust at the rear of the manifold. It is not difficult to install, but you still would need a block-off plate at the other end of that tube, to prevent potential leakage of pressurized charge air from the FCV / intake manifold. This, again, is not difficult. WWDiesel has posted the dimensions many times so they are readily available in many threads. The weeks 1+2 combination has the beauty of allowing the complete removal of both EGR and FCV, replaced with a smooth, light, high flowing elbow, and everything necessary to eliminate potential coolant leaks, and all the advantages of being free of the EGR/FCV problem. Is it worth the price? (*shrug*) I can't answer that for you. For me, it was.

off topic: is stage 1 or stage 2 weeks kit easier to install? Stage 2 is easier, but without the stage 1 or a block-off plate on the other side, it won't accomplish your goal.

A shop said the mounts are fine. If it were mounts would noise go away when motor hot? I don't know, but I've seen mounts make really weird unexpected noises, and it seems these are no exception.

_________________
'06 Lbrty Sprt CRD 147Kmi

Sasquatch
DSS Turbo
CAT-elimntr
Weeks Stg1&2 EGRfix
PV-200
BLING
vent gauge mount

IDParts New
head
cams
rockers
Timing set
ARP studs
eTn1 GX2123 5v GPs

Flowmaster 942550
Carter P76611M
GM 12611872
Hayden 2986
GM 15017911
2010 Trans
Sonnax 44957
Transgo kit
AHS 45T TC
Cooper 51770

Future plans: GDE Trans&Hot-tune


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: ticking sound.
PostPosted: Tue Sep 05, 2017 9:08 am 
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Joined: Sat Aug 24, 2013 11:36 pm
Posts: 2975
Location: Central GA
carbcoma wrote:
power steering is great.
the engine cover is gone.
I will need to check the transmission dipstick. I'm not optimistic this is it.
I tuned out the egr. no weeks kit. off topic: is stage 1 or stage 2 weeks kit easier to install?
A shop said the mounts are fine. If it were mounts would noise go away when motor hot?

FYI: No tune can 100% prevent an EGR valve from leaking by! Only a block-off plate or totally removing the EGR system can fully eliminate any possible leakby.

Normally a "tic" sound that dissipates as the engine warms up is a good indicator of an exhaust leak. Most likely on the EGR feed tube or one of its flanges, or exhaust manifold and / or turbo to exhaust manifold flange. As the engine warms up, the metal expands and closes up the leak opening so the tic sound slowly fades away.
As I suggested earlier in this post, get yourself a mechanic's stethoscope to pinpoint the leak! They are not expensive but are invaluable when trying to pinpoint noises..... :roll:

_________________
2005 Jeep LibertyCRD Limited :JEEPIN:
Blk Brush Guard/Hella's
Ironman Springs/Bilstein's
Yeti Stage4 MaxTune
Weeks ElbowKit & Battery Tray
NO FCV/EGR
Samcos/ProVent
SunCoast&Transgo
Carter Intank-pump
2mic. Sec.Fuel Filter
Flowmaster/NOcat,
V6 Airbox
GM11 blade fan / Hayden HD clutch
98 Dodge Cummins, 5"exh. Viair, Huge K&N


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 Post subject: Re: ticking sound.
PostPosted: Tue Sep 05, 2017 9:36 am 
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Joined: Fri Jun 22, 2007 11:43 am
Posts: 3804
Location: Green Cove Springs FL
I had a ticking sound that was coming from the passenger side.
Could not be heard when standing over the engine.
Could only be heard when standing away from the Jeep or with my head underneath the passenger side.
I determined that it must have been an exhaust leak at the flex joint.
When I fully removed the muffler and cat the ticking went away.

_________________
Bought my '05 CRD on June 2nd '07, used with 29,000 miles.
intake elbow and EGR delete. 7 volt Etecno glow plugs
Yeti stage 2 ECU tune. Straight pipe exhaust. DIY intercooler hoses
Provent and modified factory 180F thermostat
Replaced cylinder head (cracked) at 160,000 miles + ARP studs
Cheap 1 inch lift, 245-75R-16 tires.
Still love it.


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 Post subject: Re: ticking sound.
PostPosted: Tue Sep 05, 2017 8:07 pm 
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Joined: Fri Apr 02, 2010 3:14 pm
Posts: 2236
Location: Cleveland, OH
There is a typical engine ticking sound when oil is not at max level. I still have it even with rockers and lifters replaced. Half way between min and max has a ticking sound noticeable standing in side of engine bay. Adding oil will muffle the sound. This is the way this engine sounds. Posting a YouTube video would help a lot getting more accurate responses.

BTW, motor mounts issues are changing slightly when transmission is in drive or reverse, lift the brake and slightly accelerate when keeping the door open, you should be able to hear a noise difference if mounts are shot.

_________________
2005 kj CRD, samco, suncoast tc, provent, Kennedy lift pump, GDE ECO full torque, 2nd gen filter head, 245/70/16 a/t tires, mopar light bar, fumoto oil valve, OEM Skid Plates, ARB Front bumper and HD OME, tru cool LPD47391 40k GVW tranny cooler (stock cooler delete), FF Dynamics e-fan and shroud, rocker arms replaced, HDS2 190F thermostat.


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 Post subject: Re: ticking sound.
PostPosted: Tue Sep 05, 2017 8:48 pm 
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Joined: Sat Mar 26, 2016 4:47 am
Posts: 193
thermorex wrote:
There is a typical engine ticking sound when oil is not at max level. I still have it even with rockers and lifters replaced. Half way between min and max has a ticking sound noticeable standing in side of engine bay. Adding oil will muffle the sound. This is the way this engine sounds. Posting a YouTube video would help a lot getting more accurate responses.

BTW, motor mounts issues are changing slightly when transmission is in drive or reverse, lift the brake and slightly accelerate when keeping the door open, you should be able to hear a noise difference if mounts are shot.
What's the correct procedure for checking the engine oil level? Some say stone cold engine on level ground and other say drive until fully hot then park on level ground for 15min then check.

Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

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2006 CRD Jeep Liberty / Cherokee - Weeks Stage 1 & 2, GDE Eco Tune, Carter In-Tank Fuel Pump & Provent 200.


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 Post subject: Re: ticking sound.
PostPosted: Tue Sep 05, 2017 9:07 pm 
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Joined: Sat Aug 24, 2013 11:36 pm
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Location: Central GA
undrgnd wrote:
What's the correct procedure for checking the engine oil level? Some say stone cold engine on level ground and other say drive until fully hot then park on level ground for 15min then check.

I believe either of your described methods will suffice and produce accurate results! There should be very little total level difference between either method! :wink:
The important point is to have the engine off and allow enough time for all the oil to drain into the oil pan from the various internal locations to provide an accurate oil level measurement....

_________________
2005 Jeep LibertyCRD Limited :JEEPIN:
Blk Brush Guard/Hella's
Ironman Springs/Bilstein's
Yeti Stage4 MaxTune
Weeks ElbowKit & Battery Tray
NO FCV/EGR
Samcos/ProVent
SunCoast&Transgo
Carter Intank-pump
2mic. Sec.Fuel Filter
Flowmaster/NOcat,
V6 Airbox
GM11 blade fan / Hayden HD clutch
98 Dodge Cummins, 5"exh. Viair, Huge K&N


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: ticking sound.
PostPosted: Tue Sep 05, 2017 9:29 pm 
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Joined: Sat Aug 27, 2016 9:12 pm
Posts: 1126
Location: N. Muddle Oregon Coast
I think it's more important to do it the same every time, but unless there's room for a whole quart I don't worry about it.

_________________
'06 Lbrty Sprt CRD 147Kmi

Sasquatch
DSS Turbo
CAT-elimntr
Weeks Stg1&2 EGRfix
PV-200
BLING
vent gauge mount

IDParts New
head
cams
rockers
Timing set
ARP studs
eTn1 GX2123 5v GPs

Flowmaster 942550
Carter P76611M
GM 12611872
Hayden 2986
GM 15017911
2010 Trans
Sonnax 44957
Transgo kit
AHS 45T TC
Cooper 51770

Future plans: GDE Trans&Hot-tune


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: ticking sound.
PostPosted: Fri Sep 08, 2017 7:59 am 
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Joined: Mon Nov 16, 2015 2:01 am
Posts: 83
Location: Brisbane, Australia
I had the same ticking sound from on my 2006 Jeep Liberty CRD (Australia) with 165000Km, and could never figure it out.
One day I bought 2 bottles of Techron 4000 fuel system cleaner, and did a 600KM trip. The ticking sound was completely gone (even my wife mentioned the idle was quieter), after the trip.

I recommend doing this just before changing oil and the fuel filter.

Someone mentioned something about piston crown and build up of carbon, that the Techron fuel system probably cleaned.
Worth a try I reckon.


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 Post subject: Re: ticking sound.
PostPosted: Fri Sep 08, 2017 1:44 pm 
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Joined: Sat Oct 01, 2016 9:48 pm
Posts: 39
GordnadoCRD wrote:
carbcoma wrote:
GordnadoCRD wrote:
The first thing that popped into my mind was to check the motor mount. Can be loose, can be cracked, can have something inside that rattles about.

Beyond that, it would be helpful to know if you have either or both Weeks kits installed. (what egr components are left)

Serpentine belts, can develop cracks / defects that will make many odd noises.

Does your power steeriing fluid reservoir have proper level?

Engine vibration can cause the transmission dipstick to tick against the coolant recovery tank, and, if present, the engine cover. If it's popped out, it can also tick against the end of the tube.


power steering is great.
the engine cover is gone.
I will need to check the transmission dipstick. I'm not optimistic this is it.

I tuned out the egr. no weeks kit. My thought relative to this, That an exhaust leak can often make a ticking sound very much like a failed hydraulic tappet. If the tube that passes from the rear of the exhaust manifold, around the back of the head to the EGR valve, can have a split, crack, rust hole, or other leak, even if the EGR valve is electronically disabled, it will make an RPM frequency sound, quite like a ticking noise. The Weeks 2 is the kit that disables the exhaust at the rear of the manifold. It is not difficult to install, but you still would need a block-off plate at the other end of that tube, to prevent potential leakage of pressurized charge air from the FCV / intake manifold. This, again, is not difficult. WWDiesel has posted the dimensions many times so they are readily available in many threads. The weeks 1+2 combination has the beauty of allowing the complete removal of both EGR and FCV, replaced with a smooth, light, high flowing elbow, and everything necessary to eliminate potential coolant leaks, and all the advantages of being free of the EGR/FCV problem. Is it worth the price? (*shrug*) I can't answer that for you. For me, it was.

off topic: is stage 1 or stage 2 weeks kit easier to install? Stage 2 is easier, but without the stage 1 or a block-off plate on the other side, it won't accomplish your goal.

A shop said the mounts are fine. If it were mounts would noise go away when motor hot? I don't know, but I've seen mounts make really weird unexpected noises, and it seems these are no exception.

so is it easier to install just the stage 1 kit or both the stage 1 and 2 kit?

_________________
Problems:
oil leak near egr, egr cooler
stripped oil pan plug leaking
p0101
p0299
ticking sound


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: ticking sound.
PostPosted: Fri Sep 08, 2017 1:51 pm 
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Joined: Sat Oct 01, 2016 9:48 pm
Posts: 39
thermorex wrote:
There is a typical engine ticking sound when oil is not at max level. I still have it even with rockers and lifters replaced. Half way between min and max has a ticking sound noticeable standing in side of engine bay. Adding oil will muffle the sound. This is the way this engine sounds. Posting a YouTube video would help a lot getting more accurate responses.

BTW, motor mounts issues are changing slightly when transmission is in drive or reverse, lift the brake and slightly accelerate when keeping the door open, you should be able to hear a noise difference if mounts are shot.

So you are saying if oil pressure goes up the ticking sound goes away?

_________________
Problems:
oil leak near egr, egr cooler
stripped oil pan plug leaking
p0101
p0299
ticking sound


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: ticking sound.
PostPosted: Sun Sep 10, 2017 8:50 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 22, 2015 8:07 pm
Posts: 275
Location: Southeast Michigan
carbcoma wrote:
so is it easier to install just the stage 1 kit or both the stage 1 and 2 kit?
Stage 1 kit replaces a section of the intake and blocks off the EGR valve
Stage 2 kit can be installed in addition to the Stage 1 kit; it completely removes the EGR valve and caps off the EGR exhaust feed at the exhaust manifold

The two kits are explained on the product page: https://shop.sasquatchparts.com/products/egr-delete-jeep-liberty-crd/
There's an illustration in with the product pictures that helps show which parts are being replaced/removed by each kit.

So doing only Stage 1 would be easier since you're replacing less parts. But many people say they prefer installing both kits as removing all the EGR stuff will free up a little more room in the engine bay.


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 Post subject: Re: ticking sound.
PostPosted: Mon Sep 11, 2017 11:17 am 
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Joined: Sat Aug 24, 2013 11:36 pm
Posts: 2975
Location: Central GA
joe_ wrote:
carbcoma wrote:
so is it easier to install just the stage 1 kit or both the stage 1 and 2 kit?
Stage 1 kit replaces a section of the intake and blocks off the EGR valve
Stage 2 kit can be installed in addition to the Stage 1 kit; it completely removes the EGR valve and caps off the EGR exhaust feed at the exhaust manifold

The two kits are explained on the product page: https://shop.sasquatchparts.com/products/egr-delete-jeep-liberty-crd/
There's an illustration in with the product pictures that helps show which parts are being replaced/removed by each kit.

So doing only Stage 1 would be easier since you're replacing less parts.

But many people say they prefer installing both kits as removing all the EGR stuff will free up a little more room in the engine bay.

Stage II also gets rid of all the EGR coolant hoses which are potential coolant leaks and as carbcoma stated, gets rid of all the EGR associated junk on the side of engine which makes for a lot more room in that area! :wink:

_________________
2005 Jeep LibertyCRD Limited :JEEPIN:
Blk Brush Guard/Hella's
Ironman Springs/Bilstein's
Yeti Stage4 MaxTune
Weeks ElbowKit & Battery Tray
NO FCV/EGR
Samcos/ProVent
SunCoast&Transgo
Carter Intank-pump
2mic. Sec.Fuel Filter
Flowmaster/NOcat,
V6 Airbox
GM11 blade fan / Hayden HD clutch
98 Dodge Cummins, 5"exh. Viair, Huge K&N


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: ticking sound.
PostPosted: Mon Sep 11, 2017 1:10 pm 
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Joined: Sat Oct 01, 2016 9:48 pm
Posts: 39
thanks I, thought for a second stage 2 was a modification of stage 1 but I see they replace different parts.

Can a crush washer leak cause fuel to appear at base of injector on top of engine?

_________________
Problems:
oil leak near egr, egr cooler
stripped oil pan plug leaking
p0101
p0299
ticking sound


Top
 Profile  
 
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