Is there a head gasket writeup?

APC9199 · **Posted:** Wed Sep 27, 2017 9:42 pm

I know 80% of the work in doing a head gasket swap (and head swap) is covered in the timing belt writeup, but I was wondering if there was a detailed description of the steps required to do a complete head gasket job. My timing belt is past due and I'm just going to bite the bullet and do a preemptive head gasket job. My Jeep had 88K on it when I bought it and the EGR was still active, so I'm not taking chances. I have a new head and gasket on the way with ARP studs for the install. I just want to make sure I have everything I need before I get started because I may not have a backup vehicle and I will only have a three day weekend to get the job done. If there is not a convenient writeup available would anyone mind working up a list of things they used/needed when doing their head gasket? Here is what I have so far.

IDParts timing belt kit
New head with new valves fitted (on the way)
New rockers
Head gasket and ARP studs
Copper-Coat gasket sealant
Complete gasket kit for intake and exhaust
Copper crush washers and o-rings for the injectors
Cam timing pins & pulley holder
2 gallons Zerex G-05
Oil change kit

There are probably other things I haven't listed here...but am I missing anything huge?

GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Wed Sep 27, 2017 10:47 pm

Not huge, but there are a few things I recommend having done mine in the last year.

In order of your list:

Valve cover gasket - goes on BEFORE the cam followers are installed. (if not included with the exhaust gasket) Supposedly they "can" be reused, but I'm glad I didn't chance it.

Pick up a thread chaser or blind tap that matches the head bolt threads (coarse end of the arp studs). Better to have and not need, than to need and not have.

Get a set of new exhaust manifold studs. -as hard as you can find (grade 8 or better) The stock ones are horrid and break off easy.

Get some Ultra High Temp (red or copper) "silicone" sealer.

Small tube of thread sealer for any fastener that has coolant, or oil, or air pressure behind the threads.

Engine oil, whatever kind you plan to use.

If your engine mounts haven't been changed before now, it's a good time

Fumoto Drain Valve. Also a good time, and will save your oil pan threads.

If you don't have silicone CAC hoses yet, also a good time. (I went with house brand from IDParts. Haven't had any problems, and didn't have the t-clamp size problems that others have had with Samco / Mishimoto hoses as they are thicker and may not work with the clamps included with other kits.)

Fuel filter. It's right there. Might as well get it done too.

I also recommend insulating the turbo oil supply line from the exhaust manifold and turbo exhaust side. Very easy. Just a foot of tubular insulation, and slip it over the supply line before hooking it back up.

APC9199 · **Posted:** Thu Sep 28, 2017 5:09 pm

I have a valve cover gasket coming with the head.
I can get a tap for the threads, no problem. The last one I did I had no problems but better safe than sorry.
Do you know the dimensions of the exhaust manifold studs? I know IDParts and others sell them as a kit, but I can't stomach $65 for $25 worth of hardware that I can buy down the street.
I have some copper high temp silicone...but for what? I plan on encapsulating the turbo return grommet in it to prolong its life, is there something specific to use it for?
I have tons of thread sealer. Any mechanic that touches my Jeep hates me because I use it on almost everything.
I'm set on oil, and the fuel filter is new.
Engine mounts were done at 88K so should not need to be done, but I'll check them before I start.
I have silicone hoses and a fumoto.
Would any hardware store or specialty shop sell that heat shield insulation? I don't mind buying it from Amazon, but I'll never use 10' of it for anything practical.

Thanks for the input. It looks like I only need a few small things before I start!

Is there a head gasket writeup?

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