05 CRD Missing, No Power, No Boost. Help with codes

links56 · **Joined:** Sat Sep 30, 2017 11:51 am **Posts:** 13

Hello all, I am new to the Forum and fairly new to the CRD but I have lots of experience with diesel motors that are mechanical, I'm quickly learning lots from this forum though. Thanks for being here. Anyway, I just bought a 2005 Liberty CRD and its missing and No power at all. It will start right up and then it wont rev over 1k rpm after a bit it will rev up to 3k or so, I'm guessing there is air in the fuel system? It has no Boost what so ever, I don't hear the turbo at all. Ive checked all the intake hoses and they are good. I'm Throwing 4 codes:
1.PO403 EGR Circuit
2.PO107 MAP Circuit Low Input
3.PO610 Control Module Vehicle Options Error
4. PO113 Intake Air Temp Sensor 1 Circuit High

I would greatly appreciate it if you would help me troubleshoot this, I know what these parts are but I don't know where they are on this motor yet. From what Ive been reading probably clean the MAP no matter what and maybe the EGR is broken? Thanks in advance.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Sat Sep 30, 2017 12:40 pm

Thoughts although I'll defer to others who are more into what the codes mean:
1. when you checked the CAC hoses did you remove them from the engine? If not do so as a common failure mode is tear on the bottom or so soggy with oil that they leak boost. Assumes you don't already have silicone hoses as opposed to OEM. While in there check airbox to turbo hose for tear on bottom and turbo fan for excessive play.
2. clean MAP sensor per NOOB guide. Clean electrical contacts and reinstall.
3. unplug MAF sensor; will trigger a CEL code but will also disable the EGR. See if that helps.
4. unplug/clean contacts and replug IAP sensor (side of air box cover) and replug - probably won't help but sometimes bad connection to this does odd things.
5. is air filter clogged?

flash7210 · **Posted:** Sat Sep 30, 2017 12:51 pm

Just replace the map sensor.
Block off or fully delete the EGR. Then load a diy tune to eliminate the codes.

I don't know what to do about the P0610.

joe_ · **Posted:** Sat Sep 30, 2017 12:54 pm

links56 wrote:

It will start right up and then it wont rev over 1k rpm after a bit it will rev up to 3k or so, I'm guessing there is air in the fuel system?

Air in fuel is a common problem on these, but I think they'll normally throw a fuel pressure code (P0093?). With these circuit low/circuit high codes I'd check for an electrical issue, but you can check for air in fuel by pumping up the plunger on the fuel filter head and then opening the bleeder screw on the side.

links56 wrote:

I know what these parts are but I don't know where they are on this motor yet.

The EGR Valve is on the intake side of the engine, sort of near/below the battery. MAP sensor (which also has the Intake Air Temp sensor built into it) is on top of the intake manifold, toward the rear. It's partially hidden under the black plastic wiring harness protector thing.

Like I said, the circuit low/high codes suggest an electrical issue. Several people have found the fuel filter bracket rubbing through the wiring harness where it runs behind the bracket, and a few people have had problems from wiring rubbing on the angled alternator-to-intake support bracket.

links56 · **Joined:** Sat Sep 30, 2017 11:51 am **Posts:** 13

Okay, Ill check on all these things and report back, Ive also read a lot of people suggest changing the pump head if it hasn't been changed. Thanks again.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Sat Sep 30, 2017 4:50 pm

Yep if the fuel filter head (not pump) does not have a blue heater element plug (right side when viewed from front - see pic on SirSams NOOB guide) then you have the trouble prone 1st gen filter head and it needs replacing (idParts is a good source)

Billybob · **Posted:** Sun Oct 01, 2017 10:29 am

That P0610 error appears on several Jeep sites...usually the ECM thinking that this is a manual transmission instead of an automatic...usually caused by jump-starting the battery.

Sometimes a re-program of the ECM fixes the error but sometimes a new ECM and re-programming it fixes the error.

links56 · **Joined:** Sat Sep 30, 2017 11:51 am **Posts:** 13

The fuel filter head definitely needs changed. Do I need to clean or replace the MAP sensor? It seems from reading the noob thread that some people just unplug it anyway. Can you flash a custom tune yourself? 500 bucks seems like a lot, is there a live programmer where you can change tunes on the fly? Ive ordered silicone CAC hoses, the old ones appear fine but I'm going to swap them anyway they seem stock to me. The turbo is good, while i had the hoses off I checked it out. The air cleaner is good, I noticed the Flow Control Valve had a electrical connector that was unhooked also, Is that something that someone unhooked for a reason? That motor is really shoehorned in there, Its hard to see anything. I wonder if the EGR is already blocked off, I'm going to go look at it closer today since the sun is out. Someone has already done the elephant hose mod, I wonder what else has already been modded, would I be able to tell if the ECM had already been flashed with a custom tune? What actuates the waste-gate on the turbo?

I'm thinking about putting the lift pump in the tank and several other mods but first I'd like to get it operating so I know what else needs work, I have a sneaking suspicion about the trans but its hard to tell if its just from the motor not having any power. Thanks.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Sun Oct 01, 2017 12:58 pm

I'll try to break this into pieces:
1. you can NOT unplug the MAP sensor (viewtopic.php?f=5&t=54207) and run. You can unplug the MAF sensor to disable the EGR and run with a CEL set (NOTE there are free and $s tunes that will turn that CEL off).
2. might be easier to replace the MAP sensor than clean it. If you go the replace route get the BOSCH 0 281 002 845 or GM PN 55206797. It's much cheaper and works fine.
3. yes you can flash a DIY tune your self if you have the tune, the appropriate cable and a PC.
4. the GDE tune is pricey but it does a lot more good things than just turn a CEL off.
5. IMHO stay as far away as you can from any cheater or "programmable" live tuners. Most all of them just fool the ECU readings which can cause enough over boost to destroy a turbo.
6. FCV unplugged is ok but may cause a code. Some leave it plugged in but remove the internal butterfly which renders it non-functional. This comment will undoubtedly restart comments to the effect that the FCV is there to prevent a diesel runaway; it is not and it won't.
7. EHM is potentially very BAD as the end of the EHM hose can freeze in the winter which over pressures the crankcase which can blow the rear main seal. If you just "have" to keep oil from the CCV entering the intake like it does on every vehicle built after ca. 1969 then use a catch can with a relief valve like a Provent.
8. I know of no way to tell if you have a tune other than the GDE one. You can check GDE by emailing GDE your VIN and asking.

flash7210 · **Posted:** Sun Oct 01, 2017 2:34 pm

x2 everything Papa said.

There is a thread in the CRD Tech section that provides everything you need to know about the DIY tunes.
You need Windows computer and a MPPS v13.02 cable and software.
Use it to read your ECM software version. Then pick an appropriate tune to load.

The DIY tunes can provide some extra HP and remove the FCV and EGR codes but likely will not be able to remove a MAF code.
The DIY tunes are not as refined and complete as a GDE tune but you cant beat the price.

And as I have already mentioned above, replace your MAP sensor. (Not to be confused with MAF, very different)

links56 · **Joined:** Sat Sep 30, 2017 11:51 am **Posts:** 13

Under further inspection the egr has been deleted already, the flow control valve has no butterfly, and the map sensor was unplugged already. Could the unplugged map cause the issues I'm having with no boost? Or should it not run at all? I'm going to replace the cac hoses but I didn't see a blowout on the old ones, I think the Wastgate is not closing, probably from the map not being plugged in?

flash7210 · **Posted:** Mon Oct 02, 2017 10:24 am

The MAP sensor, on top of the engine (not to be confused with MAF sensor), ABSOLUTELY needs to be plugged in for the engine to run properly.
It will start up and run without the MAP but it wont run well and will definitely be in limp mode.

Also, the turbo does not have a wastegate. Its a variable nozzle turbo (VNT) and has adjustable vanes in the turbine that control the boost output from the turbo. These adjustments are entirely controlled by the computer and the MAP sensor is required so that the computer knows exactly what the output from the turbo is, then adjusts accordingly.

links56 · **Joined:** Sat Sep 30, 2017 11:51 am **Posts:** 13

I put everything back together, and plugged the map sensor in. It's definitely got pressure in the cac hoses. I've ordered the bosh map sensor too, cleaned the one I have until the new one shows up. The engine is still missing and has no power. I'm going to pull the connector from each injector and see which cylinder is missing. What does limp mode consist of? Thanks.

APC9199 · **Posted:** Wed Oct 04, 2017 5:09 pm

Another thing to think about, when my crank position sensor started going bad it would suddenly hiccup while driving and start to misfire and go into limp mode. It only did it occasionally, and shutting it down for about 10 minutes and starting it back up usually fixed it until the Jeep wouldn't start at all. Doesn't really sound like your problem, but if you can't find the problem with what you're trying now it might be worth the $60 to swap out the CPS just to eliminate it as a possibility.

GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Wed Oct 04, 2017 8:19 pm

Limp Mode = Will hardly rev at all, basically idle, and little faster idle, when throttle is pushed. Barely enough power to move it's self to the side of the road.

links56 · **Joined:** Sat Sep 30, 2017 11:51 am **Posts:** 13

It's definitely in limp mode, I'm hoping that changing the filter head will help if the old one is sucking air and changing map sensor, I'll probably change cps too, where's it located? Thanks.

GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Thu Oct 05, 2017 7:46 am

Engine block, Passenger side, above the oil filter, below the exh manifold, and behind a heat shield.

2 10mm bolts hold the shield on.
1 5mm allen capscrew holds the sensor in. (Don't use this screw to tighten the new sensor in. Push it all the way in by hand before tightening the allen screw or you'll likely break the plastic housing of your new CKP sensor.

If you're quadruple jointed and have the patience of a monk, you can change it from below.

If you don't mind draining coolant, moving the coolant tank out of the way, pulling the exhaust shield from the top of the manifold, and disconnecting the exhaust pipe from the turbo, you can easily reach it from the top. :goink:

The thing I wrestled with the longest was the darn electrical connector that locks into it's own bracket dealie. I finally had to break the old one to pull the sensor, then take the bracket off to get the new one hooked on, then bolt it back in after the new one was back in the block.

jlg89 · **Posted:** Thu Oct 05, 2017 9:41 am

My '06 had lost power <2k RPM, and I was convinced it was the rockers going bad...but my (now even more) favorite mechanic said the computer was throwing a bunch of "low boost" codes (which I figured), and he found that turbo waste gate vacuum solenoid was bad (which I didn't figure). 1/10 the repair cost. :BANANA:

Worth checking.

links56 · **Joined:** Sat Sep 30, 2017 11:51 am **Posts:** 13

Hey everyone, Merry Christmas. So I finally got back to work on the crd. I pulled the connectors off the injectors one at a time while it was running and the rear cylinder is dead. There is absolutely no change when I unplug it. So my question is, is this a clear sign that the injector is bad? Or could it be the cps? Should I ohm the injector out and put a noid light on the harness to see if there's a pulse? Seems to me if the injector was working it would be smoking black if there was another problem with that cylinder, like a messed up valve etc. Also what is the process for swapping an injector anything out of the norm? Thanks

flash7210 · **Posted:** Tue Dec 19, 2017 1:06 pm

Could be a bad injector.
Could be broken rocker arms.
Could be a broken valve.

You can do an injector return flow test where you collect and measure fuel from the injector return lines. If #4 is not injecting then it will be returning a lot more than the other three.
If they are all about the same then the injector is likely not the problem.
You can buy a test kit or make your own.
Or you can take the injectors to a diesel injection shop for testing.

Removing the injectors can be difficult and frustrating at times but is not impossible without special tools.

05 CRD Missing, No Power, No Boost. Help with codes

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