Just bought a CRD KJ Limited, bulletproofing advice needed

casm · **Joined:** Sun Jan 29, 2006 5:05 pm **Posts:** 694

After a stint of six years without a Jeep (previously had three XJs: a '94, 2000, and 2001) it looks as though I'm now the owner of a 2005 KJ Limited with the CRD. Made the incredibly nerve-wracking plunge of buying it sight-unseen from eBay after speaking with the seller, and to make things even more fun it's 1200 miles away and I won't be collecting it for a couple of weeks - but when I do, I'll be driving it straight back home. What could possibly go wrong?

Anyway, I've been spending the last month or so figuring out what to do in terms of bulletproofing a KJ CRD from a reliability standpoint, and could use some pointers on a couple of things. Note that I'm not new to diesels (I've had them on and off since 1991), but this is my first 2.8 CRD so I'm fairly wet behind the ears when it comes to them and the vehicles they're found in. The Sam's CRD Noob Guide thread has been very helpful; I'm just trying to narrow down some of the specifics.

The timing belt, tensioners, and water pump were done about 5000 miles ago, so we should hopefully be in good shape there.

First: glow plugs. I don't know (and neither did the seller) whether or not this one has been converted to 5V glow plugs. Absent a way of knowing how to check if the conversion has been performed without pulling the plugs, I'm assuming for now that the ceramic ones are still in there. Replacing them ASAP is on the cards, which I understand will require an ECU reflash. That's fine, but what I'd like to know is if I can take it in to the dealer for the reflash on the 7V plugs, drive it home on 7V plugs with the 5V flash, then swap the plugs and relay out for 5V units. We're talking a distance of less than 5 miles from the dealer and the engine would already be warm so I suspect it would be a non-issue, but wanted to confirm.

(Note to the above: my preference would be to do an Eco Tune and just have a 5V ECU sent back, but needing to have the Jeep in service more or less immediately means that the timing isn't quite right for it just now. Probably going to do that in the Spring.)

Second: transmission cooling. I understand that the 545RFE is fairly stout, but this vehicle will be towing (up to the 5000lb. limit) from time to time. It wasn't clear to me if an auxiliary transmission cooler was installed from the factory or not, but I won't tow without one. Can someone please confirm if it should or should not have one, and, if it doesn't, any recommendations for an aftermarket model that will a) physically fit behind the grille and b) cool sufficiently without affecting transmission warm-up in winter too terribly would be appreciated.

Third: limited-slip. Was a limited-slip diff standard on the C8.25 from the factory on the Limited trim? I know my locker options for the C8.25 are about the same (read: nothing I'm really interested in doing) as they were six years ago when I last looked into it, but if it at least has an LSD in there that'll put off a potential axle swap for quite some time.

Fourth: how well does the D30A hold up under stock use? I have zero experience with these diffs, but understand that they're not the greatest choice for running larger tyres. That's fine; this KJ is likely to stay stock or very close to it for as long as we have it.

Anyway, I think that's about everything... The NP242 is a known quantity for me (God, do I love that transfer case), but if there's anything KJ-specific about it I should know I'd love to hear it. Ditto any other suggestions for making this a reliable daily driver / tow rig / light-to-moderate weekend warrior.

flash7210 · **Posted:** Tue Oct 03, 2017 10:07 am

First question, how many miles does it have?
Second, where are you picking it up from and where are you driving it to?

Glow plugs:
option A- get a set of 7v etecno plugs from IDparts.com and install then yourself before driving back. Soak the old plugs with some PBblaster to aid in removal.
option B- get a set of 5v Bosch plugs and do the same. Dont do the programming, they will work fine.
option C- just roll with whats in it until you get it home, then decide what to do. And, if its not too cold, pull the glow plug relay to keep them from turning on.
(at 65F and above, my CRD will start just fine without using glow plugs)

Trans cooler:
The CRD has a trans cooler that is actually built into the lower portion of the AC condenser.
If you want to add an additional cooler, pick which ever one you like that will fit, zip tie to the inside of the grille, and plumb it inline with the factory cooler. Easy.

Differentials:
The 2005 CRD has a limited slip in the rear diff. The front diff is open.
The front aluminum diff case is plenty strong for most situations. Only under instances of extreme off-roading is it known to break.

Other stuff:
Bring with you a 11mm wrench and a cup to catch fuel. Pump up the fuel filter priming pump, then open the bleed screw to see if air comes out. Close bleeder and repeat process until a solid stream of fuel comes out. When you get back home, make plan to install a fuel lift pump and replace the fuel filter assembly (if necessary).
Check the front upper and lower ball joints. Its common for all liberty's to have ball joints that wear out prematurely. You dont want a ball joint failure on your drive home.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Tue Oct 03, 2017 11:04 am

FYI:
Not all 05 & 06's came with a Limited Slip differential!
My 2005 Limited and did not have one from the factory!
I have a new Dana Trac-Loc LS unit and all bearings ready to install in the coming days.

Below is a list supplied to a couple of other requester's on LOST previously, it certainly is not all inclusive, but a good basic list of possibilities to consider in order to "Bulletproof" a Jeep Liberty CRD... Searching on this forum, you can find informational threads on most all of these items listed below along with 'how to' instructions... If you have any questions or concerns on any of the items just ask, there are many great, experienced, and knowledgeable people on this forum more than willing to help, offer advice, or answer any question no matter how trivial you may have.... :wink:

**Timing belt replacement should be number one if you have not done it or know if and / or when it was last done! Replace the water pump as well when replacing the timing belt...
A broken timing belt can cause catastrophic damage as this is an interference engine and repairs can get very expensive when considering replacement costs of damaged parts and labor... If yours has been done recently, disregard this.

Some good updates and mods worth considering as time and monies allow:

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R ... L&_sacat=0

http://www.auerbach.ca/kj/lift_pump/default.html

https://www.idparts.com/timing-belt-kit ... -2721.html

viewtopic.php?f=98&t=80139&hilit

https://www.magnefinefilters.com/NEW-Ma ... 810000.htm

https://www.ironrockoffroad.com/

https://ironman4x4america.com/

viewtopic.php?f=98&t=78418

-Some parts can be expensive & doing all these mods can take time!!! :roll:

*Removal of the CAT and EGR valve totally may not be possible depending on your location and whether or not your vehicle has to endure an inspection. If it does there are some workarounds for both items to disable them completely but leave them in place for visual only inspection purposes!

aaronguy2k1 · **Posted:** Wed Oct 04, 2017 10:39 am

I believe the DIY tunes cover the flash needed for glow plugs. A very good stopgap option until you get the GDE tune.

casm · **Joined:** Sun Jan 29, 2006 5:05 pm **Posts:** 694

Thanks for all the pointers, everyone. They're definitely appreciated, and are helping me to prioritise how things are approached once I've got the KJ back at the ranch.

To answer a couple of questions asked earlier: mileage is around 110,000. Timing belt, tensioners, and water pump were done at approximately 105,000 and there is a bill for it. Hopefully the place that took care of it did the job right.

It was collected yesterday and taken on a 40-mile drive down to where I'll be picking it up it next week. Driver's report is that it apparently it drives really well overall, but with a pull to the left (likely alignment; no shimmying or steering unpleasantness suggesting ball joints). The TPMS light flickers occasionally which may be from the spare, since the other four tyres showed that they were up to pressure. The MIL came on for 10-15 seconds after 30 minutes of driving / 30 minutes of parking / subsequently being restarted, and it apparently ran OK while the MIL was on, but I'll bring an OBD-II dongle with me and see what it has to say.

The one thing I am wondering about is that it was described as, 'slow, but not as slow as the Mercedes 240D I owned in about 1978'. I'll need to find out for myself what that means in a few days (I don't recall the couple of CRDs that I drove being slugs), but I suspect that at least an air filter replacement and MAP sensor cleaning will be needed prior to setting out and I'll probably want to de-coke the EGR system when I get home. Checking the fuel filter head for air wouldn't hurt, and I may just replace the fuel filter while I'm at it if I can't find evidence of it having been done at all recently.

Looks like a week from tomorrow or Friday will be the start of the 1200-mile trip to bring it home. Looking forward to it!

GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Wed Oct 04, 2017 8:04 pm

CRD guide, (short version)

Standard (for reliability)
1) Lift pump (In Tank is best)
2) Provent (or similar as long as it works)
3) Weeks kits (Passes sniffer and opacity tests on healthy engines. Visual, IMO, depends on how much you flaunt it.)

Recommended (Things that lean towards optimization and a bit of diminishing returns for your dollar, rather than fixing problems that should never have made it to the market.)
1) Good Thermostat, Healthy cooling system, Especially if you are leaning towards power-ups.
2) good thermal protection for sensors, wiring looms, etc edit - also check wiring looms everywhere they go behind something (fuel filter bracket) around something, or through something (behind alternator, above starter, etc) check for worn insulation, bare wires, etc and fix anything you find (pre-emptive strike) Or you could just wait till something happens and hunt it down then.
3) Fuel filter upgrade
4) ARP Studs
5) Silicone CAC hoses

Optional (power-ups and Fun-ups Things to do as time and money budget allows, depending on how you intend to use your CRD.)
1) Exhaust (On my list this was actually in highly recommended. Kind of depends on local statutes, or whether one licenses in CA)
2) ECM / TCM Tune
3) Torque converter (kind of goes along with #2) front pump, and any shifting mods desired.
4) Suspension / lift
5) Tires
6) Gearing / dif locks if needed / wanted.

taroo · **Joined:** Sun Apr 27, 2008 2:14 pm **Posts:** 271

WWDiesel wrote:

FYI:
Not all 05 & 06's came with a Limited Slip differential!
My 2005 Limited and did not have one from the factory!
I have a new Auburn LS unit and all bearings ready to install in the coming days.

Below is a list supplied to a couple of other requester's on LOST previously, it certainly is not all inclusive, but a good basic list of possibilities to consider in order to "Bulletproof" a Jeep Liberty CRD... Searching on this forum, you can find informational threads on most all of these items listed below along with 'how to' instructions... If you have any questions or concerns on any of the items just ask, there are many great, experienced, and knowledgeable people on this forum more than willing to help, offer advice, or answer any question no matter how trivial you may have.... :wink:

**Timing belt replacement should be number one if you have not done it or know if and / or when it was last done! Replace the water pump as well when replacing the timing belt...
A broken timing belt can cause catastrophic damage as this is an interference engine and repairs can get very expensive when considering replacement costs of damaged parts and labor... If yours has been done recently, disregard this.

Some good updates and mods worth considering as time and monies allow:
1. **Replace timing belt /water pump (read above)
2. Install In-tank fuel pump (eliminates all air in fuel problems)> http://www.auerbach.ca/kj/lift_pump/
3. Install ProVent on CCV system (gets the oil out of the turbo inlet hose, turbo, boost hoses, and CAC)
4. Install Secondary 2 micron fuel filter (protects expensive CP3 fuel injection pump and expensive fuel injectors)> http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=98&t=80139&hilit
5. Install Silicone Boots Hoses
6. *Install Weeks elbow kit (removes EGR, EGR cooler, and FCV) > https://shop.sasquatchparts.com/products/egr-delete-jeep-liberty-crd/ See item #8
7. Upgrade torque converter to Hemi or SunCoast TC (solves and TC shudder issues if installing performance tunes) [install new front pump assembly in transmission while you have transmission out to install new TC]
8. DIY performance TUNE ($0 cost and available on this list in the CRD Tech section) > http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=98&t=78418
......{a must do if you install the Weeks elbow kit to eliminate DTC's (check engine light) that will be present when you remove the EGR & FCV)
9. *Remove CAT & choke point and put in straight piece of pipe (improves exhaust gas flow, lowers backpressure on turbo and improves turbo spool up response time)
10. *Replace muffler with straight through performance muffler (same improvements as item #9)
11. Rear shocks (You did not mention replacing them in your post!) {upgrade tires if needed}
12. Check / replace upper and lower ball joints if needed, they wear out and can separate
13. Service transmission, replace filters & fluid (use only ATF+4 transmission fluid)
14. Install Magnefine in-line transmission fluid filter (filters and traps all micro fine metal particles and can be serviced without dropping transmission pan)> http://magnefinefilters.com/Magnefine-3-8-Magnetic-Inline-Transmission-Filter-R038M.htm
15. Change engine oil / filter (install larger better quality filter and a use full synthetic 5W-40 oil like Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Oil)
16. ^Replace: engine head bolts with ARP studs, rockers arms, and exhaust valves (ex. valves can break) {^proactive engine failure prevention}
17. They may be a few other good mods that members can suggest, but this is a good start!

-Some parts can be expensive & doing all these mods can take time!!! :roll:

*Removal of the CAT and EGR valve totally may not be possible depending on your location and whether or not your vehicle has to endure an inspection. If it does there are some workarounds for both items to disable them completely but leave them in place for visual only inspection purposes!

We can start a new thread on this but want to know how much #9 and #10 increase the noise? I little is good but a lot is not.

9. *Remove CAT & choke point and put in straight piece of pipe (improves exhaust gas flow, lowers backpressure on turbo and improves turbo spool up response time)
10. *Replace muffler with straight through performance muffler (same improvements as item #9

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Thu Oct 05, 2017 3:08 pm

taroo wrote:

We can start a new thread on this but want to know how much #9 and #10 increase the noise? I little is good but a lot is not.
9. *Remove CAT & choke point and put in straight piece of pipe (improves exhaust gas flow, lowers backpressure on turbo and improves turbo spool up response time)
10. *Replace muffler with straight through performance muffler (same improvements as item #9

My CAT is gone (2.5" straight pipe) with a Flowmaster muffler and stock tailpipe still in service. Sound level is very low, a real nice mellow tone that can only be heard by either standing behind the Jeep or having the windows rolled down a very low speeds. Cannot be even heard at speed with windows up and AC on! No drone whatsoever! :wink:

'
To me, it did seem to improve turbo spool up time by not having any back pressure on exhaust system. May have helped fuel milage just a tad?
And I know lowering back pressure does lower EGT's as I installed a 5" turbo back exhaust on my Dodge Cummins and it has a EGT gauge. :BANANA:

Never got around to installing a EGT gauge on the Jeep as I did not see a big need for it and had other things on my list I wanted done first. May get around to it one day. :roll:

krb · **Posted:** Sun Oct 08, 2017 6:36 am

WWDiesel wrote:

FYI:
Not all 05 & 06's came with a Limited Slip differential!
My 2005 Limited and did not have one from the factory!
I have a new Auburn LS unit and all bearings ready to install in the coming days...

Is it indicated somewhere on a data plate if it is LS? Other than jacking it up and spinning a wheel?

aaronguy2k1 · **Posted:** Sun Oct 08, 2017 12:44 pm

http://jeepsies.com/jeep-build-sheet/

Mine:
https://www.jeep.com/webselfservice/Bui ... 565W657722

page 4, "Trac-Lok Differential Rear Axle"

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sun Oct 08, 2017 12:50 pm

krb wrote:

WWDiesel wrote:

FYI:
Not all 05 & 06's came with a Limited Slip differential!
My 2005 Limited and did not have one from the factory!
I have a new Auburn LS unit and all bearings ready to install in the coming days...

Is it indicated somewhere on a data plate if it is LS? Other than jacking it up and spinning a wheel?

Click on: "Equipment Listing", or go to the left menu under "Your Vehicle" and paste in your VIN number and it will produce a Jeep Factory build sheet.

OR
Click on the link below, and do the instructions above!
> https://www.jeep.com/webselfservice/jee ... %2527%2529

OR
Jack it up and test! :wink:

krb · **Posted:** Mon Oct 09, 2017 4:35 am

Now that is one cool site.

WWDiesel you are full of good handy info.

Thanks!

casm · **Joined:** Sun Jan 29, 2006 5:05 pm **Posts:** 694

Got the KJ back last weekend. Between the drive out and running around in it during the week, we've put around 1500 miles on it so far.

Overall it seems pretty solid. The only real issue that showed up while bringing it back was that the fan clutch is shot, but it was only really an issue on inclines; the temperature gauge sits steady at the thermostat opening point on flats and declines, so the thermostat is likely OK for now. Judicious use of the heater on full blast (which was fun in 90degF weather) was enough to at least keep engine temperatures out of the red while going uphill, and Amazon should be dropping off a Hayden 2905 today so I'll hopefully get that taken care of this weekend.

Other than that, everything works as expected and it drives well. Will need tyres in a few months, but the ones that are on there will easily get us through the Winter. They're Goodyear Wrangler STs with a matching unused spare; less aggressive than I'd like, but serviceable enough for now. Also disconnected the battery overnight to clear the ECU & TCU, and miraculously now have kickdown without having to shove my foot through the carpet to get it.

For the most part, it's going to be kept stock. Being perfectly honest, the KJ isn't the platform I'd want to try to build on for a wheeling rig - it's doable, but given the modifications involved with doing that I feel that there are other options out there for that which have better aftermarket support and skip some of the KJ's designed-in items that would require major surgery (IFS and the D30A being the two big ones). That said, I could see a mild (2") lift possibly going on if the suspension finally tires out. Maybe.

Prioritising things out, the first upgrade / maintenance item is going to be a GDE Eco Tune and 5V glow plugs (Bosch). That will also be a post-Winter item unless weather shows the glow plugs up as weak, but so far they've been OK down to 45degF in the morning. Following on from that, a full set of skidplates is going on - my wife has started to develop an interest in taking it out in the dirt, and one of the best pieces of advice I received when I was getting into off-roading years ago was, "skidplates are cheaper than damage". They should really be on there anyway, so I'll start budgeting for them.

Some lighting upgrades are necessary. The stock headlights are less-than-stellar on low beam, and only mostly-OK on high. Might go LED on those if I can find something that's not going to blind oncoming traffic. Definitely going LED on the rest of the exterior lighting, and will modify the flasher switch / relay accordingly. Need to check if there's a replacement IC for it that can sense load directly and adjust flash rates for incandescent or LED current draw on the fly (having the option of either/or would be nice); otherwise, I'll just replace the shunt resistor and call it done.

Other than that, an auxiliary transmission cooler for towing and some sort of traction aid for the rear end (it's currently fully-open) are also on the cards. I'm bummed that Auburn never made an ECTED for the C8.25; had one at each end of my last XJ (D30 front, D44 rear) and they were awesome - having an LSD when they were unlocked gave killer traction in all ranges but still allowed you to turn around. Need to figure out what that's going to be, but both it and the tranny cooler are lower-priority for now.

Anyway, looking forward to seeing where it all goes, and I think it'll make for a good load lugger / cargo hauler / Winter vehicle / mild trail vehicle. Oh, and we're really liking the CRD so far; the combination of it and the 545RFE reminds me a bit of the 4.0 / AW4 combo I was a huge fan of in the XJ. All torque, all the time is a good thing in my book

flash7210 · **Posted:** Fri Oct 20, 2017 2:17 pm

Excellent. Sounds like you are off to a good start.
You may want to verify the function of the electric fan in the grille. Even without a engine driven fan, the electric fan should kick on and keep things cool as long as you are not towing.
Turning the AC on should kick on the electric fan. With AC off it should turn on at about 205F.
But of course, having the AC on only adds more heat.

casm · **Joined:** Sun Jan 29, 2006 5:05 pm **Posts:** 694

flash7210 wrote:

Excellent. Sounds like you are off to a good start.
You may want to verify the function of the electric fan in the grille. Even without a engine driven fan, the electric fan should kick on and keep things cool as long as you are not towing.
Turning the AC on should kick on the electric fan. With AC off it should turn on at about 205F.

Yep, the A/C fan is verified working and keeps up just fine on flats or declines, but long and/or steep uphills make using A/C on them a no-go for the moment. The A/C is definitely exacerbating the issue, but isn't causing it directly - engine temperature will still rise on inclines with the A/C off. The mechanical fan can also be spun by hand with the engine off at full temperature, so it's confirmed shot.

Quote:

But of course, having the AC on only adds more heat.

The additional drag on the engine certainly doesn't help, that's for sure.

Either way, Amazon by way of the USPS dropped this off a little while ago. Pretty sure I know what I'm doing tomorrow (weather permitting).

GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Fri Oct 20, 2017 3:43 pm

If you're going that deep anyway, you should get it somewhere with a sprayer and clean all the bugs and junk out of the cooling stack. It may never have been done before.
Flush and fill the cooling system with new coolant mix.

casm · **Joined:** Sun Jan 29, 2006 5:05 pm **Posts:** 694

GordnadoCRD wrote:

If you're going that deep anyway, you should get it somewhere with a sprayer and clean all the bugs and junk out of the cooling stack. It may never have been done before.

Way ahead of you on that one - I've got a can of condenser cleaner sitting here waiting to be used for exactly that purpose. The radiator looks fairly recent, and a coolant flush was on the same bill as the timing belt job. Coolant looks good, so I'm inclined to leave that one for now.

GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Fri Oct 20, 2017 11:01 pm

Well you've got hard evidence that at least someone paid to have it done, and visible evidence that it very well may have been, so I'd be inclined to check that off also. Just one of those "while you're in there" suggestions.

casm · **Joined:** Sun Jan 29, 2006 5:05 pm **Posts:** 694

GordnadoCRD wrote:

Well you've got hard evidence that at least someone paid to have it done, and visible evidence that it very well may have been, so I'd be inclined to check that off also. Just one of those "while you're in there" suggestions.

Nope, totally understood and appreciated

Got the fan clutch on. Not a truly awful job, and managed to finish it in around 90 minutes. Hardly a record for me, but a good chunk of that was spent figuring out how to move the fan shroud out of the way and not terrible for first time changing one out on the CRD. Learned that the engine bay is... Compact.

Discovered that the serpentine belt appears to have had about a half-inch nick taken out of one of its edges; will replace it tomorrow.

Also discovered that new tyres are an immediate-need item. At some point between collecting it last weekend and driving it through the week, major cracks in the sidewalls around the bead have developed on three of the tyres. Those weren't there when I set out, and I suspect that poor mounting and age may have been the root causes. Either way, four new Goodyear Wrangler Trailrunner ATs (in LT spec) are on order and should get here in the next few days; the Goodyear Wrangler STs that were on there (which I really didn't care for anyway) were fairly worn to begin with, so it's basically just moving that item from being an upgrade to a necessity.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sat Oct 21, 2017 9:13 pm

Some owners/members have cut the fan shroud in half to make removal of just the top half of the shroud very easy adding side pieces to hold the bottom piece in place. Which is what I did to mine! :wink:

Others simply discard the bottom half of the shroud after cutting it in half completely... :roll:

Search this forum, you can find lots of posts on this subject!

Just bought a CRD KJ Limited, bulletproofing advice needed

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