I'd get secondary filtration in there to protect those new injectors
How much the rebuild run? At 200k I'm looking for the cheapest option for all new/rebuilt injectors myself. Cheap insurance to avoid a melted piston I figure, plus I have a rough idle due to one of them

I'd get secondary filtration in there to protect those new injectors
How much the rebuild run? At 200k I'm looking for the cheapest option for all new/rebuilt injectors myself. Cheap insurance to avoid a melted piston I figure, plus I have a rough idle due to one of them

ALSO my turbo supply like is leaking horribly at the block connection? Need a new line?

Just started it a few minutes ago, she runs well!!! Had a loose injector line, fixed, and an oil leak, read on.

I used Oregon Injection, 375.00 per injector. At 96K my injectors tested at 3.2+, spec is 1.0 to 1.5. OI told me to change them! OI said one bad tank of water/diesel can destroy the injectors. They see 150 to 250K on these injectors depending on fuel and if you run a premium additive. I get my cummins injectors rebuilt from OI. Funny thing is they don't rebuild the jeep injectors (everything else they rebuild). They get the rebuilt injectors direct from Bosch and resell. Head was 1785.00. It was 4K+ in parts, labor was all me and this awesome list.

What kind of secondary filtration, been thinking an AirDog 150.

ALSO my turbo supply like is leaking horribly at the block connection? Need a new line?

First see if it's loose.

The block end of the turbo oil supply line is basically a "ball and socket" joint. The "socket" is a fitting screwed into the block; if it's like the plugs in the other oil gallery holes it's screwed in REALLY tight and should not leak. The "ball" is at the block end of the oil supply line with a "nut" fitted above it on the supply line; the ball is placed in the socket and the nut is screwed down on the outer threads of the socket to hold the ball in place and keep oil from leaking. I suspect that nut is a bit loose or the ball is slightly off center as if things are buttoned up tight there should be no leaks unless there is a gouge (unlikely) in the ball or socket.

See this thread! Does require an in-tank fuel pump to function properly....
viewtopic.php?f=98&t=80139

Okay I'll do this filter mod too. Really a little tired of wrenching, need a brake from the rig now that it's running again. I drove it to Vancouver BC from Shelton WA to pick up my pyrenean sheppard pup I've been waiting for over 3.5 years. On the way back at 11:30 pm the belt broke 180 miles from home, good person saw my situation and took me all the way home with the new pup. The broken belt really put a damper on the pup experience but today I have redemption now that the beast is running again. She sounds so great again. I need to take the tranny out and rebuild it, that is what i did to put my way through school back in the day. Been building C4s for the hot rodders lately for trade. I'll post my rebuild of the tranny for those interested.
So once again thanks to the people on this list for all the help!!

I am sure as an experienced transmission builder you know to replace the front pump assembly if you remove the transmission. They are known for having wear issues in the plunger bores! The new pump assemblies are an improved design as well and require a different front cover that normally comes with the pump assembly...
And also consider updating the torque converter to either a Hemi or better aftermarket TC like a SunCoast while you have it out. The stock TC's are known for being weak and problematic especially if you reflash the OBC and increase the engine torque/HP output.
If you search on LOST, lots of information and threads about Torque Converter considerations and options....

Roger on the front pump assembly, thanks for the pro tip. Usually pump bodies are reusable unless the gears or TC grenades. They are just not making trannies like they use to C4/C6 and turbo 350/400 were pretty much bullet proof. Got a Florida TC that they specifically build for our CRDs, not cheap. Full rebuild kit and shift kit 2.

Test drove the beast and she's got no power as if it's a plugged fuel filter but that is only 2 months old with low miles. Got a P1189 code, really hard to make sense of this code on the forums. She's definitely in limp mode. ?

P1189 - unplugged air pressure sensor on side of airbox
P1189 is for the small sensor on the side of the air box lid. Could be a bad connector or broke wire as well...

It is a totally different sensor than the MAP sensor that is on top of the intake manifold!

The IAP Mercedes Logo Sensor 05101120ab is mounted on the inlet side of air filter box housing (pre-filter) and is attached with two small screws!

Have you checked this?

http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=46532

According to GDE, their tunes after 2010 have the air box sensor disabled!

According to vwroad87 signature, he has a Yeti Tune so it should still be connected and in service....
Hopefully he finds it just unplugged!