Transmission Problem

turbobill · **Posted:** Sun Dec 04, 2011 10:11 pm

I have had a problem with my transmission for about 6 months. When I first start the engine everything is normal, but, often when I have traveled 1/4 to 1/2 miles it will down shft and will not shift out of 4th gear or lock up. The transmission will seem to not shift into low gear but into second gear when I stop and then shift up to 4th and stay there. The condition remains until I turn off the engine and restart it. No delay is needed and the transmission always reverts to normal operation. Sometimes it will operate one or two days without another fault. The most likely time for the transmission to act up this way is when I have made a short trip of a mile or two, turn off the engine and then operate the jeep again before the engine cools off.

I finally had the codes check and found
P0725 - Speed sensor and
P2706 - Shift Solenoid

Seems like these codes could indicate my problem. Both parts are internal to the transmission.

Does anyone know how difficult it would be to change these parts myself? Will I have to remove the transmission to get at them or can I replace them with the transmission installed in my Jeep?

Has anyone been successful in fixing a sticking solenoid with a transmission additive? The transmission fluid was replaced 11,000 miles ago.

Is it possible that the problem is with a wiring harness with some sort of line voltage drop or intermittent open/short causing the faults to appear?

Thanks for your help in advance.

audiboy86 · **Posted:** Sun Dec 04, 2011 11:08 pm

Well is the fluid full is the first question. And if it is the shift solenoid it can be done with the transmission in the jeep. The whole units can be bought on ebay for $200 just make sure your get the correct one. The only main seperation that I can see between the 02-03 and the 04-07 is the plug color one is black and one is white. The white is the one you need.

Also everthing that you have listed points at the solenoid pack.

turbobill · **Posted:** Mon Dec 05, 2011 10:53 am

Thank you Audiboy86. I appreciate the quick reply. I will investigate the solenoid pack replacement. Seems like if you touch these Jeeps with a wrench, the parts are $200. Has anyone done a solenoid pack replacement and ave a writeup on the process.? I have to order parts for my 100K maintenance and would like to order these parts at the same time. I do have a copy of the online manual but it can be cryptic sometimes and leave out little tricks that make the jobs much easier that they appear in the manual.

Thanks for the help. Bill

warp2diesel · **Posted:** Mon Dec 05, 2011 5:51 pm

Before you rip out your solenoid pack, check your two speed sensors on the transmission. If they don't work they are lying to the TCM and it gives the wrong commands. Be a shame to spend big bucks when all that is wrong is a loose plug, or you replace the solenoid pack and find another problem.
One thing I did to keep crap out of my solenoid pack (yup electro magnets are magnets Dahh) is install a 3/8" Magnifine filter in the line going to my trans cooler. Cheap insurance for those of us who are not Fundamentalist Bone Stock Bean Counters.
Mods rule, Bean Counters can pound sand :ROTFL:

WolverineFW · **Posted:** Tue Dec 06, 2011 5:48 pm

warp2diesel wrote:

Before you rip out your solenoid pack, check your two speed sensors on the transmission. If they don't work they are lying to the TCM and it gives the wrong commands.

I recall a couple of people having problems with chaffed wiring on the harness running to the transmission. Might wanna check that out first.

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Tue Dec 06, 2011 6:10 pm

WolverineFW wrote:

warp2diesel wrote:

Before you rip out your solenoid pack, check your two speed sensors on the transmission. If they don't work they are lying to the TCM and it gives the wrong commands.

I recall a couple of people having problems with chaffed wiring on the harness running to the transmission. Might wanna check that out first.

That wiring harness is hard to even see and is above the transmission. Several including oldskull had theirs pinched or cut when the torque converter was replaced :dizzy:

turbobill · **Posted:** Mon Feb 20, 2012 4:30 pm

I got sidetracked by a timing belt change, which I screwed up royally on the first go round. I trashed the upper engine and had to replace 2 broken rockers and 6 broken lifters. Got the Jeep back together and it runs fine now. :- )

Now on to my Tranny issue again.

The tranny will go into limp mode and remains in limp mode until I turn off the engine and restart it. No delay is needed and the transmission always reverts to normal operation. Sometimes it will operate one or two days without another fault, sometimes it will fault again before I cool off the Jeep with a long shut down (but rarely). Since the fault is most likely to happen shortly after starting a cold engine, I think it unlikely that I could have an overheat issue causing the tranny to drop into limp mode (also never thrown any OT codes). The most likely time for the transmission to act up this way is when I have made a short trip of a mile or two, turn off the engine and then operate the jeep again before the engine cools off. This has been the symptom since the problem started, over 9 months ago.

I went to Auto Zone and had the codes checked, I am throwing P0700 and P2706 so it seems that the problem may lie with the speed sensors or solenoid pack on the tranny. I have closely inspected the wiring that I can see and I unplugged the valve pack and inspected the connector. Everything looks really good. I changed my fluid about 13,000 miles ago and it looks brand new and has not changed level since installed.

I think my course of action will be to order a new valve pack and speed sensors and replace them. I will look for filings in the fluid when I drain it and replace the filter while I am in there. Assuming no problem then I will call it good and see what happens.

Any comments / critiques would be very welcome from the forum. Anything I should watch out for when dropping the pan and the valve pack? There are re-manufactured valve packs available for $200. Any thoughts on using re-manufactured rather than new?

I probably should replace the torque converter while I am in there - any suggestions on the best option for a new torque converter. I do not have ANY experience with automatic transmissions, I feel confident about the valve pack replacement (may be my ignorance), but should I have concerns about taking on the torque converter?

Any input would be greatly appreciated.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Mon Feb 20, 2012 5:54 pm

I don't see that anyone asked the really basic question. Is the current tranny fluid ATF+4 or something else (don't know=something else). Lots of reports of very strange shift performance and codes when using fluids other than ATF+4. Solution seems to be a like 3 cycles of fill with ATF+4, run, drain and repeat with at least 1 set of new filters in the process.

I'd leave the TC alone unless 1) you are experiencing shudder or 2) you are doing an upgrade (ex. GDE turbo) that needs more than the stock TC or 3) doing a lot of heavy towing. Why replace a part that's not broken. If you do decide to replace the 2 known options are SunCoast (pricey but solid), OEM Euro (not as pricey and ok), the folks that just came onto the forum from Washington state (in the middle on price but no track record). All of those options are rebuilds as new stock is no longer available, no surprise. TC replacement requires dropping the tranny which is likely a weekend job although in theory it can be done in 6-8 hours. GDE has a writeup and there are other ones on the forum.

turbobill · **Posted:** Mon Feb 20, 2012 11:26 pm

Yes it is ATF 4. Had the tranny flushed and filled when I first bought it a year a go. I checked the fluid that was loaded to ensure it was the right stuff. It still looks like new, smells like new. My TX was changed in 2007 by a local dealer so the tranny has been out and in again since it left the factory. Do you have any experience with the solenoid pack?

Also the tranny works great when it works properly, just sometimes drops into limp mode. Even in limp mode it works fine, smooth shifting from 2nd to 3rd and back down again. As best I can tell the tranny will go into limp mode if the TCM believes that one of the solenoids sticks three times in a row, I guess there are three retries by the TCM to move the solenoid. All the information around the solenoid pack is pretty criptic so I am trying to find someone that knows this transmission.

flman · **Posted:** Tue Feb 21, 2012 8:18 am

Joe Romas wrote:

That wiring harness is hard to even see and is above the transmission. Several including oldskull had theirs pinched or cut when the torque converter was replaced :dizzy:

How does that happen? Did the mechanic jack it up too high?

jophi · **Joined:** Tue Oct 03, 2017 11:43 am **Posts:** 8

Old thread, and didnt' see a resolution on this thread.

I'm having similar problems with the trans. It was working fine. This weekend I did an oil change, air filter change, fuel filter change and cleaned the MAS and MAF (due to OBD Code P0101) (thanks sir sam and the noob guide).

All went well on a 30 mile round trip to the store. Later that afternoon as I was going up a hill in 5th gear, it made a clunk and went limp (3rd gear). I pulled over restarted the engine, all's good until in top gear low acceleration and clunk (think I was letting off the gas b/c of the slow driver in front of me). Restart, next time it happens in high gear and clunk, limp.

Codes: P0101 (I disconnected MAF sensor thinking it would change the outcome of the transmissions) P0102, P0700, P2706, B2TAE.

Any suggestions?

jophi · **Joined:** Tue Oct 03, 2017 11:43 am **Posts:** 8

After reading around LostJeeps I thought about what changed. On a guess, I replaced the MAP sensor thinking I may have been to aggressive cleaning screwing up the air measurements. I also bled the fuel head after reading about air in the lines. It looked like a little air came out. It looked like that worked for a couple of days. Yesterday I made a 100 mile round trip with about an hour break in the middle, and halfway back home it made that noise clunk, and limp. Yay its back. When I started the trip I had the 0101 code pop on the MIL. I didn't think much of it until the P2706 P700 joined it on the way home when the clunk happened. So another 20 miles at 40MPH. I pull up in the driveway and turn it off. I decided I'd wash it and needed to move it when I immediately tried to start, it just turned over the engine but wouldn't start. I tried again and same. I popped the hood, opened the fuel bleeder valve, and it blew air out (engine was hot) then diesel. I pumped a few times and some air did come out. So I'm thinking the fuel head problem like many others, but just guessing that the engine stall would hang up the transmission. Any thoughts/suggestions welcome.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sun Oct 15, 2017 10:08 am

jophi wrote:

After reading around LostJeeps I thought about what changed. On a guess, I replaced the MAP sensor thinking I may have been to aggressive cleaning screwing up the air measurements. I also bled the fuel head after reading about air in the lines. It looked like a little air came out. It looked like that worked for a couple of days. Yesterday I made a 100 mile round trip with about an hour break in the middle, and halfway back home it made that noise clunk, and limp. Yay its back. When I started the trip I had the 0101 code pop on the MIL. I didn't think much of it until the P2706 P700 joined it on the way home when the clunk happened. So another 20 miles at 40MPH. I pull up in the driveway and turn it off. I decided I'd wash it and needed to move it when I immediately tried to start, it just turned over the engine but wouldn't start. I tried again and same. I popped the hood, opened the fuel bleeder valve, and it blew air out (engine was hot) then diesel. I pumped a few times and some air did come out. So I'm thinking the fuel head problem like many others, but just guessing that the engine stall would hang up the transmission. Any thoughts/suggestions welcome.

Does it have the Gen II fuel head? Has it been replaced before or do you know?
If not, pull the connector plug on the fuel head for the heater (shown in the NOOB guide) and see if you see any diesel fuel in the connector cavity in the fuel head. Also look for any signs of a burnt or melted connector. Sure signs of leakage and / or a Gen I fuel head.

Ultimate fix, install an in-tank fuel pump as many members of this forum have done! Doing this puts the entire fuel system under 10-14 psig positive pressure so air can never leak into the system again...and any leak will be self evident very quickly as fuel will leak out instead of air leaking in! :wink:

See this threads for more details:>
These two links below will answer any questions concerning installing an in-tank lift pump and / or wiring it up properly.
http://www.auerbach.ca/kj/lift_pump/
viewtopic.php?t=26385&highlight=

Seth at Sasquatch Parts has both the fuel pumps and correct wiring harness listed on his web site, Link: > https://shop.sasquatchparts.com/
Link to pump:> https://shop.sasquatchparts.com/product ... r-p76148m/

Transmission problem; that is a whole different issue and may not be a transmission problem but only an air in fuel problem which if you should fix first! :roll:

Transmission Problem

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