Diesel Tranmission crossmember and OE transfer case skid

mass-hole · **Posted:** Wed Nov 01, 2017 4:15 pm

I was down at the local pick-'n-pull today and happened to notice two of the Liberty's that I looked at had OE transfer case skid plates. I was thinking about grabbing one of them but noticed that the transmission cross members looked different than mine. These were 2002 jeeps so def not CRD's(both were missing motors) but I wanted to know if the 2002 transfer case skids would fit my 2006?

flash7210 · **Posted:** Wed Nov 01, 2017 4:38 pm

It appears that a 2002 liberty transfer case skid may actually be different. But I cant find any reference to a 2002 skid. I can only find for 03-07 libertys.

And not to hijack, but I bought a transmission skid that didn't come with any hardware. Any idea on how to attach it to the transmission crossmember?
I know it needs those nut-sert thingys but I dont know where to get them Mopar doesnt seem to have a listing for them.

mass-hole · **Posted:** Wed Nov 01, 2017 5:03 pm

flash7210 wrote:

It appears that a 2002 liberty transfer case skid may actually be different. But I cant find any reference to a 2002 skid. I can only find for 03-07 libertys.

And not to hijack, but I bought a transmission skid that didn't come with any hardware. Any idea on how to attach it to the transmission crossmember?
I know it needs those nut-sert thingys but I dont know where to get them Mopar doesnt seem to have a listing for them.

I also just bought a 4Xguard Trans/Engine Skid and they want you to drill holes though the top of the trans crossmember where the existing holes are if the jeep didnt come with the factory skids and threaded inserts. It comes with long bolts and nuts that pass through the full thickness of the cross member. I was actually thinking that I might grab the cross member off one of these Pick-n-pull jeeps as well so that it already had the threaded inserts, but it doesnt look like that will work.

mass-hole · **Posted:** Wed Nov 01, 2017 5:29 pm

Ok, so a little more research reveals that the differences are based on what transmission the Jeep has. I guess early models had the 45RFE, which is physically the same as our 545RFE, and then later switched to the 42RFE or whatever. I guess they have different transmission crossmembers.

Ours our pretty much straight rectangles with 3 bolts on either side holding the crossmember to the unibody. The ones I saw today had a slight V-shape(pointing towards the back) to them and from what I remember, had 4 bolts on either side holding the cross-member in place.

joe_ · **Posted:** Thu Nov 02, 2017 12:18 pm

flash7210 wrote:

I know it needs those nut-sert thingys but I dont know where to get them Mopar doesnt seem to have a listing for them.

Hopefully this is helpful: NUTZERT part # - viewtopic.php?f=65&t=9417

mass-hole wrote:

Ok, so a little more research reveals that the differences are based on what transmission the Jeep has. I guess early models had the 45RFE, which is physically the same as our 545RFE, and then later switched to the 42RFE or whatever. I guess they have different transmission crossmembers.

The 45RFE/545RFE are totally different from the 42RLE. My understanding is that the 42RLE is basically a 42LE with the differential removed. (42LE being the transmission used in the 1993-2004 Dodge Intrepid/Chrysler Concorde/Chrysler 300M/Eagle Vision, which were front-wheel drive cars with longitudinally-mounted engines.) So the mounting setup is more than likely to be pretty different.

mass-hole · **Posted:** Thu Nov 02, 2017 12:42 pm

joe_ wrote:

flash7210 wrote:

I know it needs those nut-sert thingys but I dont know where to get them Mopar doesnt seem to have a listing for them.

Hopefully this is helpful: NUTZERT part # - viewtopic.php?f=65&t=9417

How do the nutzerts actually hold in place? When you tighten the bolt do the grab or what?

Summit racing has them(06506644AA) but they are pricey. My local dealer was actually the best price ive found so far since the online parts stores charge shipping.

joe_ · **Posted:** Thu Nov 02, 2017 1:41 pm

mass-hole wrote:

How do the nutzerts actually hold in place? When you tighten the bolt do the grab or what?

I've never installed one before so I'm not entirely sure the best way to do it.

Searching around on Youtube, it looks like one method is to use a rivet gun-like thing: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L-ik6TnWrGI

Another method is with a bolt and nut: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wKPA2CxOo_0

However both of those show aluminum inserts, relatively small too. The ones for the skid plates are relatively large (10mm?) and probably steel, so I'd imagine they'd require a lot more force to get them locked into place. The rivet gun thing would probably have to be massive in order to get enough leverage on it, and I can't see justifying the purchase price of something like that just to fix a few fasteners that attach the skid plate. Maybe the bolt and nut method would work, but with long breaker bars? And at least some oil/grease on the nut. Probably the ideal way to go would be to place a thrust washer between the nut and the insert to reduce friction.

mass-hole · **Posted:** Thu Nov 02, 2017 2:07 pm

joe_ wrote:

mass-hole wrote:

How do the nutzerts actually hold in place? When you tighten the bolt do the grab or what?

I've never installed one before so I'm not entirely sure the best way to do it.

Searching around on Youtube, it looks like one method is to use a rivet gun-like thing: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L-ik6TnWrGI

Another method is with a bolt and nut: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wKPA2CxOo_0

However both of those show aluminum inserts, relatively small too. The ones for the skid plates are relatively large (10mm?) and probably steel, so I'd imagine they'd require a lot more force to get them locked into place. The rivet gun thing would probably have to be massive in order to get enough leverage on it, and I can't see justifying the purchase price of something like that just to fix a few fasteners that attach the skid plate. Maybe the bolt and nut method would work, but with long breaker bars? And at least some oil/grease on the nut. Probably the ideal way to go would be to place a thrust washer between the nut and the insert to reduce friction.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Og-tHIR_0I

I think these are steel possibly and the same method seems to work.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Thu Nov 02, 2017 9:08 pm

For you do-it-yourselfers like me that like to build things!
I made my own skid plate back in 2013 right after I purchased my used Jeep Liberty CRD to protect the vidals!
I drilled out the bolt holes in the crossmember where the engine skid plate attaches for the front mounts to 1/2", and drilled the rear crossmember existing locations out to 1/2".
I used long 1/2" bolts with washers, and a Poly Lock nut to hold it at each location!
Note: The bolt hole in the cross member closest to the oil filter requires a shorter bolt as to not contact the bottom of the oil pan!

I welded two 1/2" square tubes about 34" long to the underside of the plate to add additional rigidity to the plate. I also incorporated a small opening (hole) in the plate for the engine oil drain. Both sides are bent up slightly by a few degrees as well as the rear section that extends beyond the transfer case crossmember . Both the transmission and the transmission are fully protected with this home made skid plate.

If anyone needs pictures; just let me know!

This is the drawing:

mass-hole · **Posted:** Thu Nov 09, 2017 5:52 pm

I wanted to update everyone on this. I got the nutzerts from my local dealer, that was the cheapest option I found. I just installed them today along with my 4XGuard skid.

Nutzert:

Bolt and nut with integrated lock washer I used to collapse nutzert:

Full thread bolt into nutzert:

Installed Nutzert:

I just used a Ratchet to hold the bolt and an open ended wrench to tighten the nut and pull the bolt down. You can see in the last picture that the nutzert collapses in the hexagonal section and folds over.

After better understanding how exactly these work, and seeing how they fit, I feel they are extremely sturdy. I wouldn’t worry about them pulling out because the more the bolt pulls on it the more it would pinch and flatten out. The only way I could see it failing is if the threads stripped out.

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joe_ · **Posted:** Fri Nov 10, 2017 12:01 am

Nice! I like the idea of using that style of nut to reduce friction. Sounds like they went in pretty easily.

geordi · **Posted:** Sat Nov 11, 2017 9:35 pm

This is a better design of nutzert than on the Volkswagen. Are used to much the same thing on my VW to install the skid plate there, but the holes and insert were both round. Having a hexagonal hole makes it lock in a lot more sturdy when it is installed.

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papaindigo · **Posted:** Sat Nov 11, 2017 10:31 pm

Being the anal paranoid over building person that I am I worried about the OEM nutzerts spinning in place if I ever had to unbolt the skids so I used Loctite red on the outside of the nutzerts and let it set before bolting the skids on. Maybe gross overkill but...

geordi · **Posted:** Sat Nov 11, 2017 11:16 pm

Hex shaped Nutzert in a hex hole.... probably way overkill. LOL

Now on the VW that was round in a round hole... maybe not such a bad idea. I have one that started spinning and I had to cut the bolt off. Haven't fixed it yet, don't really know how without really messing up the crossmember.

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joe_ · **Posted:** Sun Nov 12, 2017 12:18 am

geordi wrote:

I have one that started spinning and I had to cut the bolt off. Haven't fixed it yet, don't really know how without really messing up the crossmember.

Could you drill it out (or grind it) similar to drilling out a rivet? Then just push it up into the crossmember. The downside is, unless you have a way to get it out of the crossmember, it may be loose in there and rattling around for the life of the car.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sun Nov 12, 2017 11:11 am

joe_ wrote:

geordi wrote:

I have one that started spinning and I had to cut the bolt off. Haven't fixed it yet, don't really know how without really messing up the crossmember.

Could you drill it out (or grind it) similar to drilling out a rivet? Then just push it up into the crossmember. The downside is, unless you have a way to get it out of the crossmember, it may be loose in there and rattling around for the life of the car.

When I installed my home made skid plate (http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?p=918019#p918019), I simply drilled through the exsisting bottom hole in the crossmember, then using it as a guide, drilled through the top of the crossmember and installed a long 1/2" bolt with a polylock nut. :idea:

Very, very strong and nothing to wear out or come loose!! :wink:

mass-hole · **Posted:** Sun Nov 12, 2017 12:47 pm

geordi wrote:

Hex shaped Nutzert in a hex hole.... probably way overkill. LOL

Now on the VW that was round in a round hole... maybe not such a bad idea. I have one that started spinning and I had to cut the bolt off. Haven't fixed it yet, don't really know how without really messing up the crossmember.

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Exactly. For it to spin you would have to mess up the hex on the nutzert after it was already pinched into place. It would be hard. The crossmember itself is pretty sturdy.

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mass-hole · **Posted:** Sun Nov 12, 2017 12:48 pm

WWDiesel wrote:

joe_ wrote:

geordi wrote:

I have one that started spinning and I had to cut the bolt off. Haven't fixed it yet, don't really know how without really messing up the crossmember.

Could you drill it out (or grind it) similar to drilling out a rivet? Then just push it up into the crossmember. The downside is, unless you have a way to get it out of the crossmember, it may be loose in there and rattling around for the life of the car.

When I installed my home made skid plate (http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?p=918019#p918019), I simply drilled through the exsisting bottom hole in the crossmember, then using it as a guide, drilled through the top of the crossmember and installed a long 1/2" bolt with a polylock nut. :idea:

Very, very strong and nothing to wear out or come loose!! :wink:

This is what 4XGuard instructions want you to do if you don’t already have the nutzerts(jeep came with factory skids). The thing is, I had just finished drilling 14 holes in my jeep for the rock rails and was sick of doing that.

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WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sun Nov 12, 2017 2:04 pm

mass-hole wrote:

WWDiesel wrote:

When I installed my home made skid plate (http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?p=918019#p918019), I simply drilled through the exsisting bottom hole in the crossmember, then using it as a guide, drilled through the top of the crossmember and installed a long 1/2" bolt with a polylock nut. :idea:

Very, very strong and nothing to wear out or come loose!! :wink:

This is what 4XGuard instructions want you to do if you don’t already have the nutzerts(jeep came with factory skids). The thing is, I had just finished drilling 14 holes in my jeep for the rock rails and was sick of doing that.

I can fully relate! I did this back in 13 before I had a lift and lying on a creeper drilling holes overhead with hot metal particles falling all over yourself is no fun indeed even with a welding jacket and gloves on! :roll:

Diesel Tranmission crossmember and OE transfer case skid

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