What model transfer cooler?

NapaBavarian · **Joined:** Mon Jun 20, 2016 2:39 pm **Posts:** 129

My jeep is making a mess, I found a YouTube how to on replacing it, but it was for a parallel instilation, I wasn't sure I I would need a bigger cooler since I am replacing, and I knocked out a 2000 mile trip last month, probably a 3-5k trim coming up as I am in the market for a Casita camper to live in for a while, they are few and far between.

flash7210 · **Posted:** Sun Nov 05, 2017 10:50 am

Transmission cooler?
Use any kind of cooler that you can zip tie to the grille.
Amazon has a Hayden 678 cooler for $43.

Just cut the cooler lines off at the factory cooler and use hose to plumb it up to the aftermarket cooler. Easy.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sun Nov 05, 2017 2:43 pm

Anyone tried one of these Derale add-on "Heat Sink" coolers? Been toying with the idea of adding one in the cooling circuit and mounting it in the long horizontal opening just below the bumper.

NapaBavarian · **Joined:** Mon Jun 20, 2016 2:39 pm **Posts:** 129

I like that heat sink cooler

geordi · **Posted:** Sun Nov 05, 2017 7:36 pm

That won't offer enough cooling performance for the transmission. It is designed for cooling fuel lines.

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WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sun Nov 05, 2017 8:06 pm

geordi wrote:

That won't offer enough cooling performance for the transmission. It is designed for cooling fuel lines.
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I disagree, it is listed as an add on (additional) transmission fluid cooler or I would not be even considering it! I do not plan to abandon the the OEM cooler, but rather put this in series with the OEM cooler on the downstream side to add additional cooling capacity! :roll:

flash7210 · **Posted:** Sun Nov 05, 2017 8:23 pm

It was designed as a “frame rail” cooler for cars and hot rods that may not have enough space in the grille for an additional cooler.

geordi · **Posted:** Sun Nov 05, 2017 8:58 pm

WWDiesel wrote:

geordi wrote:

That won't offer enough cooling performance for the transmission. It is designed for cooling fuel lines.
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I disagree, it is listed as an add on (additional) transmission fluid cooler or I would not be even considering it! I do not plan to abandon the the OEM cooler, but rather put this in series with the OEM cooler on the downstream side to add additional cooling capacity! :roll:

NapaBavarian was talking about replacement not augmentation. That suggests that the capacity of the factory cooler would need to be duplicated, which an "add-on" cooler will not be capable of. The Hayden auxiliary coolers are capable of being full replacements, there is no reason why you couldn't run both.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sun Nov 05, 2017 9:23 pm

geordi wrote:

WWDiesel wrote:

geordi wrote:

That won't offer enough cooling performance for the transmission. It is designed for cooling fuel lines.
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I disagree, it is listed as an add on (additional) transmission fluid cooler or I would not be even considering it! I do not plan to abandon the the OEM cooler, but rather put this in series with the OEM cooler on the downstream side to add additional cooling capacity! :roll:

NapaBavarian was talking about replacement not augmentation. That suggests that the capacity of the factory cooler would need to be duplicated, which an "add-on" cooler will not be capable of. The Hayden auxiliary coolers are capable of being full replacements, there is no reason why you couldn't run both.

If you don't have room for an additional transmission cooler in front of the radiator, which I do not, and if you don't want to add additional heat loading to the current components, i.e. radiator, CAC, AC condenser, etc... a heat sink cooler mounted in a remote location is worth consideration!

Back to my original question which was has anyone already added or tried one of these heat sink coolers to augment the OEM cooling system! NOT to take the place of the OEM cooler embedded in the bottom of AC condenser assembly. I plan to run them BOTH in series.... :roll:

mass-hole · **Posted:** Sun Nov 05, 2017 11:28 pm

WWDiesel wrote:

Anyone tried one of these Derale add-on "Heat Sink" coolers? Been toying with the idea of adding one in the cooling circuit and mounting it in the long horizontal opening just below the bumper.

The fins arnt really aligned such that it would work well horizontally in that lower grill. Like flash said, I think it’s meant to be mounted longitudinally so that air flows along the fins.

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WWDiesel · **Posted:** Mon Nov 06, 2017 10:26 am

mass-hole wrote:

WWDiesel wrote:

Anyone tried one of these Derale add-on "Heat Sink" coolers? Been toying with the idea of adding one in the cooling circuit and mounting it in the long horizontal opening just below the bumper.

The fins arnt really aligned such that it would work well horizontally in that lower grill. Like flash said, I think it’s meant to be mounted longitudinally so that air flows along the fins.

If the cooler is simply giving up radiated heat from the fins, do you feel airflow direction would really make a big difference at low speeds? If you are stuck in stop and go traffic pulling a loaded trailer in 90+ degree heat (only time I have had a problem of shift points increasing due to temperature), I am not sure airflow direction would really have a big impact on heat transfer?
It would be real nice to mount it in line with airflow, but protected space is very limited underneath on frame rails on a Jeep CRD. But I will take another look at finding a suitable protected location to mount one.... :roll:

My goal is to not add any more heat loading to the current cooler stack in the front! :idea:

GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Mon Nov 06, 2017 6:05 pm

The best place to mount that one would be on the inside of the frame rail where the fuel lines are attached. That would be good for a fuel cooler, but it's a long way from where the transmission lines pass. The other (RH) side would not work since the exhaust is there and would negate effectiveness.

The problems with heat sink type coolers are:

1) They require a high temperature differential to work well. If you install it after the existing cooler (radiant type) then the temperature differential is so low that it will simply be taking up space. To be effective you would want to install it in the trans outflow line to get the best benefit. The radiant type cooler will still be more effective as far as specific BTU removal, and the returning flow would be measurably lower than if you installed the sink cooler after the radiant cooler.

2) They require pretty constant airflow along the fins to do anything at all. If you stop in traffic, or if the air flow isn't going the same direction as the fins, then again, all they do is heat up and up and up.
A perfect example of this is Air Cooled Engines. Such as air cooled motorcycles. The fin direction is always such that the air flows fully between the fins, with as small of a change of direction as possible. Even so, if traffic stops, you will commonly see riders "splitting lanes" or traveling by on either shoulder in effort to keep the engine from failure. Or an old air cooled Volkswagen that has lost the generator belt. No matter how fast or slow traffic is, you've got just minutes to pull it over and get it shut off or it will seize. The hotter the ambient air, the faster they go critical.
Think, if the fins were arranged 90 degrees to what they are. There would be next to NO cooling at all.

The radiant type cooler such as exists, and most commonly used, are nearly always mounted towards the front, and arranged so that the coolest air possible can pass between the tubes and fins, and if stopped, the stock fans can move SOME air through the cooling stack. Other aftermarket auxiliary fans sometimes come with their own fan to allow more mounting places and prevent failure.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Mon Nov 06, 2017 8:38 pm

GordnadoCRD wrote:

The best place to mount that one would be on the inside of the frame rail where the fuel lines are attached. That would be good for a fuel cooler, but it's a long way from where the transmission lines pass. The other (RH) side would not work since the exhaust is there and would negate effectiveness.

The problems with heat sink type coolers are:

1) They require a high temperature differential to work well. If you install it after the existing cooler (radiant type) then the temperature differential is so low that it will simply be taking up space. To be effective you would want to install it in the trans outflow line to get the best benefit. The radiant type cooler will still be more effective as far as specific BTU removal, and the returning flow would be measurably lower than if you installed the sink cooler after the radiant cooler.

2) They require pretty constant airflow along the fins to do anything at all. If you stop in traffic, or if the air flow isn't going the same direction as the fins, then again, all they do is heat up and up and up.
A perfect example of this is Air Cooled Engines. Such as air cooled motorcycles. The fin direction is always such that the air flows fully between the fins, with as small of a change of direction as possible. Even so, if traffic stops, you will commonly see riders "splitting lanes" or traveling by on either shoulder in effort to keep the engine from failure. Or an old air cooled Volkswagen that has lost the generator belt. No matter how fast or slow traffic is, you've got just minutes to pull it over and get it shut off or it will seize. The hotter the ambient air, the faster they go critical.
Think, if the fins were arranged 90 degrees to what they are. There would be next to NO cooling at all.

The radiant type cooler such as exists, and most commonly used, are nearly always mounted towards the front, and arranged so that the coolest air possible can pass between the tubes and fins, and if stopped, the stock fans can move SOME air through the cooling stack. Other aftermarket auxiliary fans sometimes come with their own fan to allow more mounting places and prevent failure.

It may just be a bad idea, but space or locations on these vehicles are so limited to mount extra coolers of any kind... :banghead:

mass-hole · **Posted:** Mon Nov 06, 2017 11:42 pm

WWDiesel wrote:

mass-hole wrote:

WWDiesel wrote:

Anyone tried one of these Derale add-on "Heat Sink" coolers? Been toying with the idea of adding one in the cooling circuit and mounting it in the long horizontal opening just below the bumper.

The fins arnt really aligned such that it would work well horizontally in that lower grill. Like flash said, I think it’s meant to be mounted longitudinally so that air flows along the fins.

If the cooler is simply giving up radiated heat from the fins, do you feel airflow direction would really make a big difference at low speeds? If you are stuck in stop and go traffic pulling a loaded trailer in 90+ degree heat (only time I have had a problem of shift points increasing due to temperature), I am not sure airflow direction would really have a big impact on heat transfer?
It would be real nice to mount it in line with airflow, but protected space is very limited underneath on frame rails on a Jeep CRD. But I will take another look at finding a suitable protected location to mount one.... :roll:

My goal is to not add any more heat loading to the current cooler stack in the front! :idea:

For pure radiative heat transfer you want something with a high emissivity. Matte black is the best. Straight aluminum usually is pretty low emissivity but maybe it’s decently high if it’s brushed or something.

WWDiesel wrote:

It may just be a bad idea, but space or locations on these vehicles are so limited to mount extra coolers of any kind... :banghead:

Tell me about it, I had a hard time finding a place for my amsoil dual bypass filter which isn’t that big.

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NapaBavarian · **Joined:** Mon Jun 20, 2016 2:39 pm **Posts:** 129

I's hat den 678 it or is there a bigger better choice? Or is that big enough? I don't want to get too cold in snow country or too hot pulling 7000#

GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Tue Nov 07, 2017 3:40 am

NapaBavarian wrote:

My jeep is making a mess, I found a YouTube how to on replacing it, but it was for a parallel instilation, I wasn't sure I I would need a bigger cooler since I am replacing, and I knocked out a 2000 mile trip last month, probably a 3-5k trim coming up as I am in the market for a Casita camper to live in for a while, they are few and far between.

Is it for sure leaking from the cooler part, or the line connector fitting? If the leak is at the fitting, it's easy to replace the O-Rings. Just don't use (buna) rubber. Use Viton or better.

flash7210 · **Posted:** Tue Nov 07, 2017 9:18 am

NapaBavarian wrote:

I's hat den 678 it or is there a bigger better choice? Or is that big enough? I don't want to get too cold in snow country or too hot pulling 7000#

Transmission coolers come in all different shapes and sizes.
Measure the space you would like to put it, then find one that fits the space.
Search Amazon, search Summit, or see what your local auto parts store has.

To me, the Hayden 678 looks to be of good size, but you can always go bigger.

NapaBavarian · **Joined:** Mon Jun 20, 2016 2:39 pm **Posts:** 129

I considered the seals and it is a possibility, the oil message goes up the redial or several inches so hard to say, I tried cleaning it to see a few months ago with inconclusive results. I could always give it a shot.

NapaBavarian · **Joined:** Mon Jun 20, 2016 2:39 pm **Posts:** 129

Is the only ring size commonly known? I wouldn't mind giving that a shot, chasing the size of an installed or in can be frustrating

What model transfer cooler?

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