UK 2004 2.5 crd with issues

Robcherokee · **Joined:** Fri Dec 01, 2017 4:05 pm **Posts:** 12

Hi everyone,
I have an 04 plate 2.5 crd liberty kj and am having frustrating niggling problems with it.
Every so often, for no reason,the car will die with a complete loss of power, electrics are all fine, the engine just dies. I then have to let it sit for 10mins or so before it will fire back up, trying before 10mins just turns the engine over but won't catch and fire up.
Once it fires back up, it can either run fine all day, or do it again..it's intermittent and is registering no codes at all on the system, so diagnosing is difficult at best.
The only noticeable error is the oil pressure light with come on and stay on occasionally when this happens.
I've changed to oil filter, air filter, oil, fuel filter and given it a basic service.
I've ordered an oil pressure sender and will swap it later, but I'm guessing here and throwing money at it in the hopes something will fix the error.
Anyone got any ideas?
Thanks guys

papaindigo · **Posted:** Sat Dec 02, 2017 8:01 am

Does it have a crank position sensor? If so replace it. Tends to fail, sometimes intermittently, when hot and kill engine with no codes but engine will restart when it cools off.

Billybob · **Posted:** Sat Dec 02, 2017 8:17 am

It does have a crank sensor so worth changing!

Fuel supply problems are common although generaly not heat related....and they post no codes!

My 2002 Export 2.5 CRD would sometimes grind to a halt on the open road....no codes. Wait a few minutes and it would start up again.
I knew my fuel filter was overdue for replacement so had a new Mopar filter sitting under my driver's seat waiting for the magic fairy to replace it!

When I arrived at my destination I had a Mechanic friend of mine fit the new filter and all has been well since then.

Download the 2002 KJ Service Manual here but more importantly download the section "2.5_2.8 Export Diesel" which covers our Export 2.5/2.8 CRD Engines better than the USA sites do as they do not have these manuals.

The section in this manual shows how to pump the fuel filter head to expel air but there is an omission.....after pumping the plunger a few times until it is hard....release the 10 mm brass screw head on the side to allow the air/fuel escape. Tighten up again and repeat.

Download manuals here: http://www.colorado4wheel.com/manuals/Jeep/KJ

Also send me a private message with your e-mail address and I will send you a small attachment that lists the 2.5/2.8 Error Codes and what to do about them.....do you use the "key" trick to pull out codes?

ausjeepoffroad.com/forum is a good site for our Export 2.5/2.8 CRDs! :wink:

Robcherokee · **Joined:** Fri Dec 01, 2017 4:05 pm **Posts:** 12

Hi guys, thanks for the quick replies and ideas.
Done the key turn to show codes on dash board, the only one showing is 0514, which was tied into a 14year old Optima redtop battery finally giving up the ghost, the actual ECU is clear, live data from the rac man (recovery company in UK) showed no errors even when the car did it's hiccup with him plugged in.
He bled the fuel system then too, which "seemed" to clear the issue, for about 10mins, then it did it again, this was it's worst day by far, although am glad as the mechanic was there seeing it.
Since then it does it perhaps once a day or two, have bled the system at the filter, and there's only ever fuel, no air.
I'm guessing I'm dodging the inevitable crank sensor swap, which does seem to be at the root of many of similar issues

Got the manuals thanks! Nice reading

There's a list of error codes in one of them too, so thanks again
Ho-hum, gonna get my rubber arms out and swap the cks

Robcherokee · **Joined:** Fri Dec 01, 2017 4:05 pm **Posts:** 12

So I'm eating humble pie, apparently we didn't swap the crank sensor, while I was off buying parts my friend was supposed to have done it..found it to much trouble so didn't.
I've now stripped the heat shield off the side of the turbo, moved the expansion tank, but still cannot get my hands down the the crank sensor, there's just not enough room.
I don't seem to be able.to find it from underneath either, so a bit stumped...any advice?
I can't even see the darn thing, and only succeed in getting my arms jammed in the turbo gubbins.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Tue Dec 05, 2017 1:22 pm

Not sure about the 2.5, but on the 2.8 which should be very similar, most including myself have changed the CPS from underneath the vehicle. I can't imagine trying to change it from the top! :roll:

It is a tight fit up by the exhaust downpipe from underneath, but it is doable. The CPS on the 2.8 is hidden behind a heat shield that is bolted to the side of the engine block which must be removed to gain access to the CPS connector and the sensor itself...

This is what it looks like on the 2.8:

Robcherokee · **Joined:** Fri Dec 01, 2017 4:05 pm **Posts:** 12

Thanks for the pics, I've removed the heat shielding from the turbo, but I'm guessing I've left the cks shield in place and that's stopping me.
Is it a 4mm Allen key?

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Tue Dec 05, 2017 1:52 pm

Robcherokee wrote:

Thanks for the pics, I've removed the heat shielding from the turbo, but I'm guessing I've left the cks shield in place and that's stopping me.
Is it a 4mm Allen key?

Sounds about the right size.

GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Tue Dec 05, 2017 6:42 pm

When I got that far and found it still tight, I disconnected the exhaust from the turbo.
Plenty of room then.

joe_ · **Posted:** Tue Dec 05, 2017 11:18 pm

WWDiesel wrote:

I can't imagine trying to change it from the top! :roll:

It's not bad from above if you get the coolant reservoir and turbo downpipe out of the way. I didn't see how to get my hand in there from below without undoing the v-band clamp and moving the downpipe over, but it's been a while since I've looked at it so it may not be as bad as i remember.

GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Wed Dec 06, 2017 12:50 am

I don't think there's any difference time-wise either. Just remember to disconnect and reconnect the coolant level sensor under the reservoir, and pull the exhaust from the turbo (one clamp) and it's just right there. The Provent is far enough over it didn't make any difference either.

Robcherokee · **Joined:** Fri Dec 01, 2017 4:05 pm **Posts:** 12

Reservoir off and out of way, all heat shield off, or bent enough, but still it's darn right!
I ended up HAVING to remove the down pipe from turbo as my oil filter is smack at the side of the down pipe, hence no room.
Three bolts hold my down pipe to turbo, 10mins of quick release soaking and they flew off, leaving the pipe moveable on its flexible bit
Had to bend the tin ware a little but I had removed the nuts so it moved a lot.
All in all, it's not a bad job, just time consuming when you have huge hands doing things in small spaces!

Robcherokee · **Joined:** Fri Dec 01, 2017 4:05 pm **Posts:** 12

WWDiesel wrote:

can't imagine trying to change it from the top! :roll

There's actually a hell of a lot of room from above once you've cleared stuff out of the way, but you need socket extenders to get down to it, and I sat on my block lol

Ended up a combination of above and below for me, but like I say, I'm a meaty guy, and my hands just don't fit in some gaps

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Wed Dec 06, 2017 8:22 pm

Robcherokee wrote:

WWDiesel wrote:

can't imagine trying to change it from the top! :roll

There's actually a hell of a lot of room from above once you've cleared stuff out of the way, but you need socket extenders to get down to it, and I sat on my block lol
Ended up a combination of above and below for me, but like I say, I'm a meaty guy, and my hands just don't fit in some gaps

Actually I changed mine and one other totally from underneath and I did NOT remove the exhaust down pipe as some have suggested!
I think removing the exhaust down pipe is just added work and opens up the possibility of an exhaust leak!
And, I am a big 6'2" meaty guy with big hands myself and I had NO difficulty working through the small openings from the bottom to change the CPS!
I did remove the front skid plate under the engine to make access to the CPS much easier.

If anyone in the Midstate area of Georgia needs help with minor servicing on their CRD; let me know, I have a fully equipped shop, a 10k lift, all kinds of tools, and the knowhow to help! :wink:

UK 2004 2.5 crd with issues

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