Engine stops right after cranking

hgrimberg · **Joined:** Mon Dec 19, 2011 11:03 pm **Posts:** 363

My engine stops right after cranking and then it takes a lot of cranking to start again. Then I have to push the pedal a lot to prevent it from stopping again and then after some time, everything is ok and normal and doesn`t stop anymore. Could it be bad diesel? BTW, a few days ago I had an oil change, diesel, oil and air filter changed. What else could it be?
Thank you

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Mon Dec 04, 2017 12:20 pm

hgrimberg wrote:

My engine stops right after cranking and then it takes a lot of cranking to start again. Then I have to push the pedal a lot to prevent it from stopping again and then after some time, everything is ok and normal and doesn`t stop anymore. Could it be bad diesel? BTW, a few days ago I had an oil change, diesel, oil and air filter changed. What else could it be?
Thank you

Any codes tripped?

hgrimberg · **Joined:** Mon Dec 19, 2011 11:03 pm **Posts:** 363

WWDiesel wrote:

hgrimberg wrote:

My engine stops right after cranking and then it takes a lot of cranking to start again. Then I have to push the pedal a lot to prevent it from stopping again and then after some time, everything is ok and normal and doesn`t stop anymore. Could it be bad diesel? BTW, a few days ago I had an oil change, diesel, oil and air filter changed. What else could it be?
Thank you

Any codes tripped?

No codes, no yellow light.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Mon Dec 04, 2017 1:04 pm

hgrimberg wrote:

WWDiesel wrote:

hgrimberg wrote:

My engine stops right after cranking and then it takes a lot of cranking to start again. Then I have to push the pedal a lot to prevent it from stopping again and then after some time, everything is ok and normal and doesn`t stop anymore. Could it be bad diesel? BTW, a few days ago I had an oil change, diesel, oil and air filter changed. What else could it be?
Thank you

Any codes tripped?

No codes, no yellow light.

Most likely air in fuel! Try pumping up fuel with pump on top of filter housing and bleed and see if any air comes out! :roll:

hgrimberg · **Joined:** Mon Dec 19, 2011 11:03 pm **Posts:** 363

Good point. Maybe when they changed the fuel filter they forgot to pump it. I'll try it.

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papaindigo · **Posted:** Mon Dec 04, 2017 3:48 pm

Follow bleeding procedure in Sir Sam's NOOB guide. Also it's possible they did not remove the small rubber gasket that seals the filter base where it threads onto the filter head shaft. If so it's double gasketed which can cause an air leak.

hgrimberg · **Joined:** Mon Dec 19, 2011 11:03 pm **Posts:** 363

papaindigo wrote:

Follow bleeding procedure in Sir Sam's NOOB guide. Also it's possible they did not remove the small rubber gasket that seals the filter base where it threads onto the filter head shaft. If so it's double gasketed which can cause an air leak.

If there are 2 gaskets, is that visible? I mean, can I see the 2 gaskets from outside without taking out the filter?
Thank you

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giacomo.m · **Posted:** Wed Dec 06, 2017 8:29 am

hgrimberg wrote:

papaindigo wrote:

Follow bleeding procedure in Sir Sam's NOOB guide. Also it's possible they did not remove the small rubber gasket that seals the filter base where it threads onto the filter head shaft. If so it's double gasketed which can cause an air leak.

If there are 2 gaskets, is that visible? I mean, can I see the 2 gaskets from outside without taking out the filter?
Thank you

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for me no
you can not see

Giacomo

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Wed Dec 06, 2017 10:47 am

hgrimberg wrote:

papaindigo wrote:

Follow bleeding procedure in Sir Sam's NOOB guide. Also it's possible they did not remove the small rubber gasket that seals the filter base where it threads onto the filter head shaft. If so it's double gasketed which can cause an air leak.

If there are 2 gaskets, is that visible? I mean, can I see the 2 gaskets from outside without taking out the filter?
Thank you

The two rubber gaskets can only be observed by totally removing the fuel filter! :wink:

This picture shows you the two gaskets, small one in the center, and the large outer one!
When replacing and changing out the fuel filter, one should be aware that both the small & large rubber gaskets are removed before installing the new filter with a new large & small rubber gasket!

:SOMBRERO:

hgrimberg · **Joined:** Mon Dec 19, 2011 11:03 pm **Posts:** 363

WWDiesel wrote:

hgrimberg wrote:

papaindigo wrote:

Follow bleeding procedure in Sir Sam's NOOB guide. Also it's possible they did not remove the small rubber gasket that seals the filter base where it threads onto the filter head shaft. If so it's double gasketed which can cause an air leak.

If there are 2 gaskets, is that visible? I mean, can I see the 2 gaskets from outside without taking out the filter?
Thank you

The two rubber gaskets can only be observed by totally removing the fuel filter! :wink:

This picture shows you the two gaskets, small one in the center, and the large outer one!
When replacing and changing out the fuel filter, one should be aware that both the small & large rubber gaskets are removed before installing the new filter with a new large & small rubber gasket!

:SOMBRERO:

I pumped up the fuel with the pump on top of the fuel filter. Ut that didn't solve the issue. Now I am more inclined to check the second possible cause that is mentioned here. I will have to take out the filter but in the meantime maybe somebody can see if the 2 gaskets are visible from outside on this photo:

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giacomo.m · **Posted:** Fri Dec 08, 2017 2:53 pm

a magician perhaps can see them .....

Giacomo

joe_ · **Posted:** Sat Dec 09, 2017 7:34 pm

Make sure you're not leaking from that top banjo bolt fitting. In that picture it looks a bit wet around it.

hgrimberg · **Joined:** Mon Dec 19, 2011 11:03 pm **Posts:** 363

joe_ wrote:

Make sure you're not leaking from that top banjo bolt fitting. In that picture it looks a bit wet around it.

Exactly! that top bolt fitting was loose and it was loosing air from there! We just adjusted it and problem solved.
Now I have another problem: it is not shifting gears. It seems like it is not going more than 3rd gear and then doesn't shift anymore. Even when I release the pedal, it continues stuck in 2nd gear... I read on another post that it could be related to air in the fuel filter. Is that possible? Or what else can it be?
Thank you

GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Fri Dec 15, 2017 3:00 am

A trans shift problem on the CRD should have no relation to the fuel system.

[Edit] First make sure you have the ATF+4 level is above the MAX line on the dipstick. I keep mine within 1/2" above the MAX level. These are much happier that way.

Without being there, it sounds more like an electrical problem between the TCM inputs and the solenoid valve connector (the squarish connector) on the driver's side of the trans, a small distance above the pan seal intersection. Might pull that connector, and inspect all of the connector pins for corrosion or heat from a poor connection or water entry, and that the input connector half is receiving proper signal to the solenoid pack half of the connector.

hgrimberg · **Joined:** Mon Dec 19, 2011 11:03 pm **Posts:** 363

GordnadoCRD wrote:

A trans shift problem on the CRD should have no relation to the fuel system.

[Edit] First make sure you have the ATF+4 level is above the MAX line on the dipstick. I keep mine within 1/2" above the MAX level. These are much happier that way.

Without being there, it sounds more like an electrical problem between the TCM inputs and the solenoid valve connector (the squarish connector) on the driver's side of the trans, a small distance above the pan seal intersection. Might pull that connector, and inspect all of the connector pins for corrosion or heat from a poor connection or water entry, and that the input connector half is receiving proper signal to the solenoid pack half of the connector.

It was low on transmission fluid! Thank you

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GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Mon Dec 18, 2017 12:10 am

Awesome!

Engine stops right after cranking

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