My old friend passenger side coolant...

ryanchris · **Posted:** Sat Dec 16, 2017 3:01 am

So it is winter time and since I changed the plugs while doing the tb and water pump ( brass) last year it is taking a little longer to start cold. It did have the original plug like most everthing else but I figured I wouldn't Chance it even though the steel aren't as good. So I pulled the jeep in the garage and making a dyi intake heater out of a o2 sensor bung a ch49 glow plug and a relay to go in the stock elbow. Around a 100 bucks total.
Anyway I noticed the jeep left me a little coolant puddle right where it did when the water pump was going out... And there was some belt noise (i think) a few times before since it has got cold. So my question my water pump isn't craping out again is it ? I haven't even drove the thing 5k since changing it all! Think it could be the viscous heater? There seems to be yellow around the back of it and bolts might be wet or that could be from the wp weep hole in the top? I really hope it isn't the wp since I enjoy the jeep but darn again!

GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Sat Dec 16, 2017 4:19 am

I'm going on around a year with the eTn1 GX2123 5v GPs. Awesome starts every time, well below freezing. (Except for the time my brake light stayed on overnight. Ran the battery dead and melted the switch, too.) I still have the original 7V programming and original GPModule.

Is the belt noise you are hearing, TB for sure, or does it go away if the serp belt is unhooked?

Lots of hoses and contact surfaces there by the wp, oil cooler, thermostat, etc.

flash7210 · **Posted:** Sat Dec 16, 2017 10:21 am

Coolant leaks could be from anywhere. Make sure the hose clamps are tight.

Definitely investigate the belt noise.

ryanchris · **Posted:** Sat Dec 16, 2017 11:42 am

I guess i should of said the belt nose isnt the tb belt its the Serpentine and changes from time to time. I was going to replace it but that is also pretty fresh. I have checked most of the connections i can get to for coolant and nothing really, only place i know it is are the back of the vh and wp.

Here are some pictures.

https://imgur.com/a/x7c9J

https://imgur.com/a/pqRui

https://imgur.com/a/hhUuyj

And the intake heater with stock elbew if you were wondering. I know isnt prettt but it works.

https://imgur.com/a/dNKNE

https://imgur.com/a/ZAY0n

Sorry they are links but i am on my phone atm.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sat Dec 16, 2017 12:26 pm

Blowing up the pictures, looks like your leak is the back of the Viscous Heater leaking to me. :roll:

Can you move that electrical connector over and take another picture of the top side?

You may want to get some of the UV die at the parts store and add it to your antifreeze and then look at the area with a UV light. :idea:

That will pinpoint the leak source!

Like your inline air heater, pretty innovative! :wink:

joe_ · **Posted:** Sat Dec 16, 2017 1:15 pm

I agree with WWDiesel; back of your viscous heater looks wet so that's the first place to check. And since those hose clamps look new, I'd make sure those are good and tight - might not be obvious when parked since it probably only leaks when the cooling system is good and hot, and fully pressurized.

GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Sat Dec 16, 2017 4:55 pm

WWDiesel wrote:

Blowing up the pictures, looks like your leak is the back of the Viscous Heater leaking to me. :roll:

Can you move that electrical connector over and take another picture of the top side?

You may want to get some of the UV die at the parts store and add it to your antifreeze and then look at the area with a UV light. :idea:

That will pinpoint the leak source!

Like your inline air heater, pretty innovative! :wink:

I also agree with this assessment.
The coolant looks fairly clear and aluminum looks clean where it's coming around the Power steering pump, and the mineral crust deposits get heavier as it gets higher and closer to the rear of the VH.
It is also a possibility that's also causing the Serp belt noise if some of this seepage is being blown forwards with swirling air as you drive. If you have a pressure washer, or a DIY car wash handy, spray the ridged side of the belt as the car is running. No soap, just hot rinse is best. It will slip a little while it's wet, but when you stop and it dries, the belt should be clean and quiet. You will probably need to clean up some water spray if you are really concerned with aesthetics.

ryanchris · **Posted:** Sat Dec 16, 2017 5:17 pm

I will not say I'm glad if it's the vh but I'd rather that than do the wp and tb job again. I haven't looked yet but any good places other than id to get a vh? Or is there a swap I can do or change a seal?

GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Sat Dec 16, 2017 7:22 pm

I'm seeing you're from Kentucky, more southern US than the subarctic states OR Canada.

If you're intent on keeping the Jeep, I wouldn't worry about fixing or replacing the VH. Just remove it, and replace the serp. belt with a shorter one that fits. There are some on here that could give you some advice about what belt to use, and how to route without the VH.

mass-hole · **Posted:** Sat Dec 16, 2017 7:33 pm

GordnadoCRD wrote:

I'm seeing you're from Kentucky, more southern US than the subarctic states OR Canada.

If you're intent on keeping the Jeep, I wouldn't worry about fixing or replacing the VH. Just remove it, and replace the serp. belt with a shorter one that fits. There are some on here that could give you some advice about what belt to use, and how to route without the VH.

This. Or just get a barbed hose connector and remove the coolant lines from the heater and splice together.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

papaindigo · **Posted:** Sat Dec 16, 2017 7:55 pm

I agree with mass-hole but would add if you do the bypass be sure to pull the viscous heater relay R36 in the power distribution center in front of the battery to disable the VH clutch. You don't want the clutch to engage with no coolant in the VH.

My old friend passenger side coolant...

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