General question for someone else with experience with head off. When the Flywheel is pinned are the pistons all at mid position and tops all level to each other? I am pretty sure they are supposed to be but just want reassurance.

Thanks

_________________
05 Blu LIM, OME GDE Tbo, wk II 245/75/17, KC Lights, bull bar, 195K H TC
05 Blu Lim, Dayton, GDE HT, 255/75/18 , 210K , H TC
06 Bla Lim, GDE Eco, Destination AT 245/75/17, 151K, H TC
06 D Khaki Lim 126K wkII Eur TC
05 D khaki Lim 145k refurbishing
All CRDS: Fumoto, Lift , Fan Shroud mod, fuel head Gen II, SAMCOS,self TB, 2 Mic filt, Hayden

I never pay attention to that, but pretty sure that is 90 degrees ATDC, (after top dead center), which is why you can spin the cams at that position without a valve hitting a piston.

_________________
05 CRD: H.D.S2 stat,WW Ironrock trilink&LCA's, OX rear,ARB front, 4.10's, ARB bumper, Suncoast,OME 3.5, JBA UCA,rock rails, Moabs&265/75 Duratracs, GDE tunes ,FFD fan,ARP's, 2 micron fuel, new valves,sasquatch battery tray & grid heater, tensioner relocated
Mech fan, VH & AC delete

When I recently installed a "new" head on my build, I was cleaning the cylinder bores of dirt/debris and carbon build up at the top of the cylinder walls and noticed all the pistons were at the mid-point position. So I think your good. Just remember that its 90 degrees ATDC on the #1 piston not BTDC....I had to double check mine since the flywheel pin was not installed on my engine when I picked it up.

_________________
05 CRD; Rebuilt top end w/ARP studs, EGR delete, SEGR, 3.7L HD cooling fan, Samco hoses, in tank pump, JBA coil overs & control arms, KK clevis fork, 1/2" cradle drop, 1/4" motor mount lift, WJ rear upper trilink w/WW mount, WJ lower control arms, 4:10 gear, front/rear air lockers, ARB bumper, Rock Lizard sliders/roof rack, Mod T-stat

That is correct, with the flywheel "pinned" in the proper position, all 4 pistons will be at mid point of their travel.

Another check is to make sure the crankshaft pulley index mark is setting at 3:00 o'clock with the flywheel pinned and looking at the front of the pulley as shown in the drawing & picture below.

_________________
Supporting Vendor and Moderator of LOST
05 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited
Ironman Springs/Bilstein/Shocks
Yeti StgIV Hot Tune
Week's BatteryTray
No FCV/EGR
Samcos/ProVent
SunCoast/Transgo
Carter Intank-pmp
2mic.Sec.Fuel Filter
Flowmaster/NO CAT
V6Airbox/noVH
GM11 Bld.fan/HDClutch
IronrockArms/wwdieselMount
98 Dodge Cummins 24 Valve

Thanks for reply That was the problem. There was a bunch of dirt dauber mud on the crank pulley mark and I thought there was only one flywheel position that an allen key would go in further than the factory tool which I have but dont use since its such a PITA I knew there where other places the allen could go into but I didn't think it would go in as far. So I saw the pistons at mid height and thought it was correct and the key went in the flywheel completely but in actuality wass exactly 180 degrees out of desired time. When I just cleaned off the crank mark area it was on left side not the right or correct side.

So now back to work with progress!

_________________
05 Blu LIM, OME GDE Tbo, wk II 245/75/17, KC Lights, bull bar, 195K H TC
05 Blu Lim, Dayton, GDE HT, 255/75/18 , 210K , H TC
06 Bla Lim, GDE Eco, Destination AT 245/75/17, 151K, H TC
06 D Khaki Lim 126K wkII Eur TC
05 D khaki Lim 145k refurbishing
All CRDS: Fumoto, Lift , Fan Shroud mod, fuel head Gen II, SAMCOS,self TB, 2 Mic filt, Hayden

Glad you got it sorted. You discovered the biggest complaint I have with the factory process - that the flywheel is full of giant holes! Many false positives from that.

_________________
Proud supporting vendor of LOST Jeeps
TRAVELING CRD TECH. I come to you!
Need help? Just ask! I've taken it apart more than most.
Email jeep [at] maincomputer [dot] com - BOARD MESSAGING IS BROKEN
Over 125 CRDs currently driving with my timing belt, rockers, or ARP Studs.
Bad noises = REALLY bad things.