ARP Head Stud Kits for the CRD with correct number of studs

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Fri Jan 19, 2018 3:10 pm

Good News for us CRD owners!!!
Just noticed on Jeep CRD FB page that ID Parts is now offering a Special Priced ARP Head Stud Kits for the CRD with the correct length and only 18 studs instead of having to buy two full VW sets of which some are a little bit too short!

Guess I will be finely placing an order for a set so I will have them on hand to change out the OEM head bolts in the future!

From ID's Web page:

ID Parts wrote:

Set of 18 ARP head studs, nuts and washers for the Jeep Liberty CRD. This kit includes 14 longer studs that can fully bottom inside the block for easier installation, especially important with the higher torque inner bolts. Includes 4 shorter studs for the outer exhaust side row to avoid interference with the valve cover. 18 ARP washers and nuts, along with ARP installation grease, required for proper torque.

https://www.idparts.com/arp-head-stud-k ... -4044.html

https://www.facebook.com/groups/liberty ... 772578435/

:SOMBRERO:

ryanchris · **Posted:** Fri Jan 19, 2018 5:11 pm

Not sure if this info has been posted or not, or if it has changed... But I know about a year ago when i thought i might need to do the head gasket and head stud thing (still would like studs but only when i need them, since its alot of work.)... I didnt see a reason why you couldn't buy just the head gasket. So i searched all over the web and found that you can get just the gasket across the pound. ELRING 690.426 is the part number for the 2 hole one. I have seen it online for around 80 USD shipped.

Mountainman · **Posted:** Fri Jan 19, 2018 5:36 pm

That's a nice set, but I'm still not worried about the longer stud thing as noone has reported lifting a head. It would be smart insurance if you're running the engine with higher boost/bigger turbo though. :2cents:

mass-hole · **Posted:** Fri Jan 19, 2018 5:57 pm

Are these the same correct length studs that Geordi had issue with contacting the webbing on the manifold

Mountainman · **Posted:** Fri Jan 19, 2018 6:32 pm

mass-hole wrote:

Are these the same correct length studs that Geordi had issue with contacting the webbing on the manifold

Yup, but they put in some shorter ones for the exhaust side

geordi · **Posted:** Fri Jan 19, 2018 6:54 pm

I would agree with Nick, I have not talked specifically with ID Parts about this new kit, but they were fully aware of the problem when it happened and I'm sure that factored into their discussions with ARP.

Just a general installation note, you do not want to bottom them out completely in the hole because that could possibly put stress on the stud if it angles slightly to the side when it reaches the end of the threads. You want to back it off a half a turn after you hit the bottom. That will keep the stud perfectly straight when you are applying torque.

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wellsgriffons · **Joined:** Sat Dec 09, 2017 6:21 pm **Posts:** 8

I just saw they had the studs on sale for $309. Got my set ordered!

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Infinite_Karma · **Posted:** Wed Jan 31, 2018 6:08 pm

Thanks! = Ordered and Shipped!

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Thu Feb 01, 2018 4:51 pm

Unless you use a bottom tap, I doubt that you will be able to get a stud to bottom out completely in a blind hole. It will reach the partial threads area near the bottom and just tighten there. Even if you do use a bottom tap, you will still have to remove 1.5 to 2 threads off the end of the stud to allow it to bottom out completely because even bottom taps have 1.5 to 2 chamfered threads. :roll:

Stopping the stud install when you first feel the resistance of the threads taper will ensure the greatest amount of thread contact area. Never try to force a stud to the bottom of the blind hole.

From APR's Official Website:

APR wrote:

Do the head studs only go in hand, or finger tight?
Yes, cylinder head studs are installed only hand tight. Other than the use of an allen wrench on the hex broached into the end of the stud (to ease installation, not to apply torque), use no tools to seat them in the block. However, it is extremely important to ensure that the studs are fully bottomed out in the hole in the block and not hung up on damaged or corroded threads in the block preventing the stud from being fully seated. This is often indicated when the stud threads extend past the deck surface.

geordi · **Posted:** Thu Feb 01, 2018 5:51 pm

Sorry, that is not correct. The depth of the threads in the block are DEEPER than 2", which means that the stud stops at the TOP of the threads that are cut in the stud not by bottoming out in the hole.

As far as threading them in, that information must be old on their website because straight from an ARP engineer as part of the video linked below, you do NOT want the stud to be all the way bottomed out. That can cause the stud to shift to the side ever so slightly and when you put 19,000 PSI of force on it by torquing, it could possibly fail. The best way is to run the stud in with the nut and washer already preinstalled, either to contact with the head and then finger-tight, OR until you run out of threads (on the longer studs) and then back it off a half-turn so that it is NOT bottomed out.

ARP's comments in this video have been verified by direct conversations with them by several people.
http://www.powernationtv.com/two-minute-tech/2min-447/how-to-properly-use-stud-fasteners

ARP Head Stud Kits for the CRD with correct number of studs

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