Advice for buying a used CRD

babaloui3j · **Joined:** Wed Feb 23, 2011 12:32 am **Posts:** 5

I had a 2006 CRD 7 years ago that was showing signs of the transmission starting to fail and when went under it to service the axles I saw dirty grease stain right in line with the pinion seal. Uppon removing the cover it was almost dry and what little oil was in ther was quite full of glitter. Due to financial problems at the time I couldn't afford to fix it but it was still driving ok so i topped it up and traded it in for a payment on a new vehicle... long story short I am in a position finally to get another one and found a couple local examples for sale and looking for some advice on what to look for when checking them out. One is an 06 with 140k the other is an 05 with 190k (which the interior looks immaculate) anyway sorry for the long post.

Mountainman · **Posted:** Sat Jan 20, 2018 12:24 pm

I would buy one with all of the major engine mods already installed, otherwise you're likely going to end up doing a head gasket, or worse. Plan on putting about $4k+ into a non-upgraded one, and that's if you use someone from lost jeeps to do the work. It's a huge gamble to use a dealer or shop that doesn't have a ton of experience on these engines, and dealers & shops may lie about their experience. If you post your location we can point you in the direction of good candidates.

babaloui3j · **Joined:** Wed Feb 23, 2011 12:32 am **Posts:** 5

I live in the Seattle area. What modifications are we talking? I don't have much experience with this engine other than replacing the timing belt and boost hoses but am a fairly competent mechanic, I have worked diesel repair in the agricultural industry for years but that was a lot of old PLN engines or the Cummins b&c series and Navistar electronic engines.

Mountainman · **Posted:** Sat Jan 20, 2018 6:12 pm

-new rockers arms, new timing set with water pump, ARP head studs, egr delete. If you buy one to fix up, and you're lucky enough to not have a bad head gasket, then you can do 1 for 1 install of the head studs. If you pull the head it's not a bad idea to put in new exhaust valves.
It's also a huge bonus if it already has an upgraded torque converter if you want to increase the power and mileage significantly with an engine tune. +3 mpg is about what you will get, plus a lot of torque

PZKW108 · **Joined:** Sun Apr 06, 2014 5:23 pm **Posts:** 461

Read Sir Sam's noob guide

That's a pretty good start !!!

rankom · **Posted:** Sat Jan 20, 2018 7:14 pm

hm i see your signature , cumminsB,C series , love them motors fuel with bosch p 7100 inline pump , i would trade my CRD for one of them ,,dodge pu trucks 4x4 manual tranny , LOL only think can happen to it you brake throttle cable. look for one of those, thats MY ADVICE

babaloui3j · **Joined:** Wed Feb 23, 2011 12:32 am **Posts:** 5

rankom wrote:

hm i see your signature , cumminsB,C series , love them motors fuel with bosch p 7100 inline pump , i would trade my CRD for one of them ,,dodge pu trucks 4x4 manual tranny , LOL only think can happen to it you brake throttle cable. look for one of those, thats MY ADVICE

Love the Dodge with B series as well... bullet proof, simple and run forever but a pickup is not what im looking for i need a four door smallish vehicle that is easy to maneuver and park in small booty apartment lots. Also I just really liked driving my old CRD and want another one.

DieselJeepLuvr · **Posted:** Sun Jan 21, 2018 12:21 am

Well what ever you do don't buy the one you traded in... My recommendation would be NOT to buy from anyone other than the original owner (who is dying from terminal cancer) who meticulously cared for it and has followed our forum since new... Unless you are daring and with a wreckless concern for financial stability.

:2cents:

Jay ne Ohio · **Joined:** Sun Dec 12, 2010 5:49 pm **Posts:** 216

It's really a crap shoot on getting a good one.

I bought one with 123k that had two bad rockers. Most likely caused by using the wrong oil or didn't change the oil at the correct intervals. I replaced all the rockers and now have almost 40k miles on it without any other problems

I bought another one with a dropped valve at 212k. No real reason that I can figure other than age/miles. Had to do an engine swap with that one as there was considerable damage.

Had the turbo go out on another one at 100k. Put a reman in it and still going strong.

Transmission on another at 121k. Did a swap.

My other one is at 150k with no issues other than rust from being in the rust belt all it's life.

Personally, I'd stay away from the one with 190k. Once they hit 200k, there's a pretty good chance at dropping a valve from what I've read. Don't see very many with more miles that are still on their original head. Heads are expensive ($1700 without the cams).

Otherwise: look for one with a tune that disabled the EGR early in it's life (or an EGR delete kit). Timing belt kits are around $400, so a recent DOCUMENTED change will add to the value.

GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Sun Jan 21, 2018 6:05 pm

The crucial things that we don't know are
What do you expect out of it.
How are you going to use it.
The more of either of these will determine how much you're going to need to put into it.
Subtract from that, the things you have receipts and mileages for toward the above.

Here's a short to-do list of CRD drivetrain related mods.

CRD guide, (short version)

Needed / Standard (for reliability)
1) Lift pump (In Tank is best)
2) Provent (or similar as long as it works)
3) Weeks kits (Passes sniffer and opacity tests on healthy engines. Visual, IMO, depends on how much you flaunt it.)

Recommended (Things that lean towards optimization and a bit of diminishing returns for your dollar, rather than fixing problems that should never have made it to the market.)
1) Good Thermostat, Healthy cooling system, Especially if you are leaning towards power-ups.
2) Good thermal protection for sensors, wiring looms, etc. Also check wiring looms everywhere they go behind something (fuel filter bracket) around something, or through something (behind alternator, above starter, etc) check for worn insulation, bare wires, etc and fix anything you find (pre-emptive strike) Or you could just wait till something happens and hunt it down then.
3) Fuel filter upgrade
4) ARP Head Studs
5) Silicone CAC hoses

Optional (power-ups and Fun-ups Things to do as time and money budget allows, depending on how you intend to use your CRD.)
1) Exhaust (On my list this was actually in highly recommended. Kind of depends on local statutes, or whether one licenses in CA)
2) ECM / TCM Tune
3) Torque converter (kind of goes along with #2) front pump, and any shifting mods desired. The more miles are on the original one, the higher this should move.
4) Suspension / lift
5) Tires
6) Gearing / diff locks if needed / wanted.

You might want to check these off when checking your prospects out. The more there is left, the more there is likely left to make it how you want it.

babaloui3j · **Joined:** Wed Feb 23, 2011 12:32 am **Posts:** 5

DieselJeepLuvr wrote:

Well what ever you do don't buy the one you traded in... My recommendation would be NOT to buy from anyone other than the original owner (who is dying from terminal cancer) who meticulously cared for it and has followed our forum since new... Unless you are daring and with a wreckless concern for financial stability.

:2cents:

I don't know what you are implying but other than transmission I had it for 5.5 years with no problems. Bought it with 28k on it immediately did the EHM, unplugged the MAF and cleaned the MAP sensor. Shortly after installed a lift pump in tank and swapped in silicone hoses. Oil changes every 5k w/synthetic oil did the timing set @ 89k never had a lick of problems from the engine. @ 100k I serviced the diffs and t-case and had local shop service the transmission. 40k later I started noticing transmission shudder and late engagement which is when I traded it in since at the time my financial situation was far less than ideal.

babaloui3j · **Joined:** Wed Feb 23, 2011 12:32 am **Posts:** 5

Thanks Mountainman & GordnadoCRD good info!
I will primarily commute with some cross country road trips and mild overland camping trips thrown in. (I.e. Whipsaw trail if you are familiar with it)

craws010 · **Posted:** Tue Jan 23, 2018 11:40 pm

All three of the Liberty CRD's that I purchased needed upper and lower ball joints. The joints themselves were still good, but the boots were torn. You have to replace the whole upper control arm, but the lower ball joints can be replaced.
The coil springs were sagging pretty bad on two of them. The springs on the other one were replaced by the PO.
I also had to replace the alternator decoupler pulley, idler pulleys, tensioner and pressed a new bearing in the viscous heater pulley.
I am currently collecting all the parts to upgrade the torque converter.

I believe that all of these repairs are quite common once you pass the 100K mark.

Advice for buying a used CRD

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