No Start after Engine Work

nuthinbutmopar · **Joined:** Fri Jan 13, 2017 10:15 pm **Posts:** 11

Background:

2006 CRD, purchased last January with 125k miles. Dealer serviced to that point, verified by CarFax, fuel head updated, timing belt replaced at 96k per dealer records

Initial problem, now 150k miles:

Wife was driving on the highway and had a pound sound start instantly, slight reduction in power. When she called me, I could hear it over the phone, sounded like she was to 60 mph with a flat tire when she was sitting still. CEL light already on due to ORM. Gauges looked good, still had power, so I told her to see if it would drive. Noise increased with rpm, but she was able to get 60 mph without major problems. Drove it 10 miles home.

Diagnosis:

I got home, scanned it, found a misfire on #3 code. Started slightly hard, but loud internal popping sound. Pulled the driver's side intercooler hose, loud popping from the hose. Suspected collapsed lifter or broken rocker on exhaust side of #3. Pulled the intake and found 4 bad rocker arm roller bearings and one of the #3 rockers popped off and laying on the head. Checked the cams and found no variance between lobes, so ordered rocker set, timing set, Weeks 1 & 2 kits.

Reassembled with new components, bled fuel head, no start. Bled fuel head repeatedly, NO AIR to that point. Cracked the line to the fuel manifold, and I don't think I'm getting enough fuel into the fuel manifold.

*Cranks normally
*No air out of fuel head (hose into the bottom of a bottle of fuel, no bubbles)
*Timing marks checked x3 before reassembly
*P0093 code while cranking (plus 2 expected EGR codes)
*slight smell of burned fuel from exhaust but NO smoke
*Checked the #4 injector plug/fuel pressure regulator plug and they are correct
*CP3 plug is plugged in

Can I push fuel through the CP3 with the hand pump with key on? Is there something else I'm missing?

Mountainman · **Posted:** Sun Jan 28, 2018 1:42 pm

No on the pump question. Did you see if all the valve stems were at the same height? Did you inspect the #3 injector tip? Do you still have #3 misfire? Rockers usually aren't that loud. Was there a loud knocking sound before you pulled intake hose? Any strange sounds when you turn it over?

Mountainman · **Posted:** Sun Jan 28, 2018 2:00 pm

Oh, first crack loose #1 injector line at the rail and crank until fuel comes out.

nuthinbutmopar · **Joined:** Fri Jan 13, 2017 10:15 pm **Posts:** 11

I’m confident the noise was #3 popping back through the intake because the exhaust valves were not opening/minimally opening. Cracked #3 injector line and popping reduced along with rpm during diag. No abnormal noises when cranking. Injector tips all ok. Did not measure valve height, but didn’t notice anything abnormal when springs were inspected.

What’s a reasonable crank time to get fuel from the rail?

Mountainman · **Posted:** Sun Jan 28, 2018 2:54 pm

nuthinbutmopar wrote:

I’m confident the noise was #3 popping back through the intake because the exhaust valves were not opening/minimally opening. Cracked #3 injector line and popping reduced along with rpm during diag. No abnormal noises when cranking. Injector tips all ok. Did not measure valve height, but didn’t notice anything abnormal when springs were inspected.

What’s a reasonable crank time to get fuel from the rail?

I usually get fuel on the rag in about two five second cranks. Then it should start within 2 or 3 8 second cranks. Resting 30 seconds or more between so you don't kill your starter.

The pressurized fuel from the rail can kill you, just in case...

nuthinbutmopar · **Joined:** Fri Jan 13, 2017 10:15 pm **Posts:** 11

Have fuel from the rail, still no start. Now gained a P0103 code.

I can’t help thinking something is not plugged in correctly, but other than the deleted egr, I’m not getting codes to indicate anything. I’ve checked everything I can see, and it’s all correct. My cheap Bluetooth scanner says fuel rail pressure is 870kpa not cranking, jumps to 1530 when cranking. I know there’s a discussion on that somewhere, I’ll go looking for it...

Mountainman · **Posted:** Sun Jan 28, 2018 3:42 pm

The air temp plug likes to be almost connected and do that if you don't have GDE tune

nuthinbutmopar · **Joined:** Fri Jan 13, 2017 10:15 pm **Posts:** 11

Air temp plug good, data shows correct temp. Figured out how to change units on live data, only getting a max of 220 psi fuel rail pressure.

nuthinbutmopar · **Joined:** Fri Jan 13, 2017 10:15 pm **Posts:** 11

Gave it a quick breath of ether, fires right up, so I’m going back through the fuel system.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Sun Jan 28, 2018 3:57 pm

Your ether post suggests that this may not be it but. IIRC there are 2 identical electrical plugs toward the back of the fuel rail. One goes to injector #4 and the other to something else on the rail. If reversed no start.

nuthinbutmopar · **Joined:** Fri Jan 13, 2017 10:15 pm **Posts:** 11

papaindigo wrote:

Your ether post suggests that this may not be it but. IIRC there are 2 identical electrical plugs toward the back of the fuel rail. One goes to injector #4 and the other to something else on the rail. If reversed no start.

Yes, injector #4 wire is factory labeled and on the injector.

nuthinbutmopar · **Joined:** Fri Jan 13, 2017 10:15 pm **Posts:** 11

GOT IT!!!!

Lifted it up to chack wiring connections from underneath (2-post hoist is the BEST tool I ever bought) and found a puddle of diesel underneath.

I didn’t get #4 injector line tight.

Tightened it up, mde 1 pop and purred.

Thanks for the suggestions.

Mountainman · **Posted:** Sun Jan 28, 2018 5:50 pm

Congrats, I'm glad it wasn't a dropped valve!

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sun Jan 28, 2018 10:07 pm

Glad it turned out to be something simple! :BANANA:

No Start after Engine Work

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