The ball joint failed as I was driving, resulting in the passenger side wheel folding under the car.
Have a replacement, and have removed the failed v
Ball joint and front bolt, the rear one seems to be almost welded in its that solid, have soaked it in penetration oil for a day or so, the nut comes loose, but can I hell as like remove the bolt.
Limited space doesn't allow for a good swing with a hammer to talk it out, have had a long metal bar on and smacked that, but it just won't shift.
Any tips?

Keep trying.
Slide the other bolt back in to hold the upper arm in alignment.
Try using a pry bar to wiggle it out.

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U.S. Army Retired

Ok, so the bolt is in tight, I've had heat applied, and burned the rubber bush away from the old control arm, and it looks like the bolt has fused into the metal sleeve that sits in the middle of the rubber bush.
Wether it's 14 years of rust, or oxidation, its welded in there solid.
I'm thinking I might have to somehow cut the bolt and replace it, seem s like the easiest path unless there's any other ideas?

Its not unusual for bolts to get corroded and seize up.
Although its more common for the lower control arm bolts.
Do what you gotta do to get it out and coat the bolts with some graphite anti-seize.

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U.S. Army Retired

This may not be recommended, but when I was replacing my upper ball joints I had the same issue, so I used a floor jack and some 2x4's to push up on the upper control arm from underneath. That puts all the weight on that ball joint as tension. Leave it like that, hit it with oil, hit it with heat, hit it with a hammer etc. Eventually they did free up

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2006 CRD - GTB2056 turbo by Dieselguy86, Eco Trans Tune, Lift Pump, Week's, HDS Tstat, Racor Filter, ARP's, OME 790's+Top Plate, JBA 2.5", JBA UCA, Moab's+265/75R16, ARB Bull Bar, 4.10's, TrueTracs

I've had some major heat on it, enough in fact to burn off the rubber bush, so I've got an upper control arm held on by one bolt, the one closest to the bulkhead.
The bolt itself turns freely, the nut has come off, it's literally welded itself in to the inner metal sleeve of the bush and won't budge.
The arm is hanging off freely so no tension is on the bolt, there's limited room under the wheel arch to get in and cut the bolt, and of course it's hardened, so not the easiest thing to saw, I'm surprised at just how solid it's in there, I would have thought it would have punched through the bodywork by now, but the stubborn thing just laughs at everything I try.
A gas cutter might be the only way?

I misread, I thought you were saying the ball joint was frozen in the spindle.

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2006 CRD - GTB2056 turbo by Dieselguy86, Eco Trans Tune, Lift Pump, Week's, HDS Tstat, Racor Filter, ARP's, OME 790's+Top Plate, JBA 2.5", JBA UCA, Moab's+265/75R16, ARB Bull Bar, 4.10's, TrueTracs

Ball joint was easy to remove, perhaps because most of it was in the strut, it failed, came apart and the wheel went under the car.
Recovery said they would take 5 hours to reach me, so I jacked her up, popped the joint back in, wrapped some rope around the top and bottom wishbones and drove it to the nearest town for coffee, then told the recovery company new location.
Shows how tough these little beasts are haha.

Ended up burning the rubber bush out of the upper control arm, nearest to bulkhead, which allowed some play in the entire arm.
Then had to drill small holes all over the metal tube that was originally the centre of the bush, this allowed me to spray release agent into the tube to get it between that, and the retaining bolt corroded inside.
Along with more heat, and force, allowed the bolt to eventually come free.
Why is it that every job on these trucks takes days longer than it should!!!!