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 Post subject: 150k Miles: time for the HeadGasket and parts?
PostPosted: Wed Jan 31, 2018 6:07 pm 
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Hey everyone,

I've worked a lot on my little rig over the past 6 years or so (bought it with 114k Miles on it), and put a decent amount of preventative upgrades, improvements, and fixes into it (and maybe too much $$$$ as well). Feel free to peruse my KJ-CRD Facebook-Album (https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10151564526516208.1073741825.508521207&type=1&l=02cf849fdf).

I'm hoping my KJ CRD will last for another 100k miles or more, and with all the research and evidence of head-gasket failures, rocker-failures around 150k-ish, and the like, I'm thinking it's time to delve deeper and do that work.

Now, I'm not overly experienced in going into deeper engine work, and I don't have a shop or even a garage where I've worked on my rig. I usually do all the repairs/upgrades/modifications in my forest-home-driveway.
Image

So!

My plan is to do some R&R (Repair & Replacement ... not Rest and Relaxation) under the Head, since I'll be replacing the Head-Gasket & Studs.

What are the best parts to replace, to avoid future failures, since I'll be that deep in the engine? *disclaimer: I don't know our little engine that deep into it*

I think I need to get the following:
* Head Gasket (is IDParts the best vendor for this work, or would another vendor or type be just as good if not better?)
* ARP Studs (already ordered from IDParts due to the recent sale and the corrected 18 stud-set)

How deep do I have to go from there to the following:
* Camshaft replacement kit: Rocker Arm, Lifter Assemblies, Camshafts, seals, and gaskets (is IDParts the best vendor for this work, or would another vendor or type be just as good if not better? https://www.idparts.com/camshaft-replacement-kit-liberty-crd-p-4123.html)
* Piston Rings? little video here about diesel piston rings that I found interesting: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xGzjS7cOsd8

Any recommended best practices, walk-thur guides, or videos to help me in this process? I plan to do the following:
* Head removal and surface check, with re-surface or replace if needed (really hope it doesn't need to be replaced, or I should have seen these symptoms)
* Checking the seats, liners, and gaps, and check for cracks anywhere on intake runners in head

I wish I had a great diesel mechanic in the area that I could check with, but not any that I could find.

Let me know what your thoughts and perspectives are.

Thanks,

Sarma.

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2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited: GDE Eco Tune, Weeks Kit 1&2, Provent 200, P3 Electronic Brake Controller, Custom Rock Rails, New Suspension and Arms (OME, ARB, Raybestos, Bilsteins, etc.), 11-Bladed Fan, HD-Fan-Clutch, HDS M-001 Thermostat assembly, Fan-shroud-mod, Sasquatch Turbo, Tires (BFG AT TA KO2 LT245/70R16 - load D).


Last edited by Infinite_Karma on Tue Feb 20, 2018 4:16 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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 Post subject: Re: 150k Miles: time for the HeadGasket and parts?
PostPosted: Wed Jan 31, 2018 7:28 pm 
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If you are losing zero to very little coolant over several thousansd of miles, then just swap in the ARP's one for one, unless you want to put in new exhaust valves. If that's the case then I would have a trusted machine shop first test for cracks, and then resurface the head and then install/test new and old valves.

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05 CRD: H.D.S2 stat, Ironrock trilink,OME lift, JBA UCA's, Moabs&245/75 Duratracs, GDE tunes ,Truetrac front,FFD fan,ARP's, new head,rockers, cams,sasquatch battery tray & grid heater, Suncoast TC, welded EGR port & trans drain, muffler delete,
Mech fan, VH & AC delete,tensioner relocated
-CRD's being restored


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 Post subject: Re: 150k Miles: time for the HeadGasket and parts?
PostPosted: Wed Jan 31, 2018 9:52 pm 
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Oh, you'll definitely want to replace the rockers also, but that doesn't mean that you have to pull the head

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05 CRD: H.D.S2 stat, Ironrock trilink,OME lift, JBA UCA's, Moabs&245/75 Duratracs, GDE tunes ,Truetrac front,FFD fan,ARP's, new head,rockers, cams,sasquatch battery tray & grid heater, Suncoast TC, welded EGR port & trans drain, muffler delete,
Mech fan, VH & AC delete,tensioner relocated
-CRD's being restored


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 Post subject: Re: 150k Miles: time for the HeadGasket and parts?
PostPosted: Wed Jan 31, 2018 10:38 pm 
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There have not been THAT many valve failures to date, but no one seems to know for sure what causes them. Some have claimed it is the choice of oil, the use of the EGR system, cooling system upgrades or neglect, and even a possible low quality batch of valves. There have been enough of them to get my attention because valve failures are NOT normal under any circumstance. I was overdue for a timing belt change and decided to take it all the way to the head gasket with ARP studs and new rockers upon re-assembly. I drive vehicles until they literally almost break in half. My Subaru 2.5RS was finally retired when the jack I was using to raise it up for an oil change punched through the frame!

If you're like me, I would take it to the head gasket and get new valves in it. I ordered an entire re-manufactured head from VM Specialist because I didn't have the time to have the head inspected and rebuilt. I was able to rebuild the entire top end with all new/reman'd parts in 3.5 days and I am TEDIOUS about cleaning and inspecting things. Everything went back together looking like new or at least spotless clean. If I can do it, you can do it. Just follow the guides that have been posted here and take things slow. Research the parts you'll need/want and make sure you have everything before you start then just block off some time and start working! One big tip that helps me tremendously is to buy organizing bins from home depot/lowes etc and use them to label and organize every piece of hardware that comes out of the engine. Nothing feels worse than not remembering where a screw goes, or even worse, having a few extra when you get done!

That is my 2 cents on the matter. Others will probably recommend that you do very little, overall. It is entirely up to you and your level of "OCD". Just remember that the best group of people to ask for help if/when you get into it are right here waiting!

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2006 Limited CRD: Frankenlift II, Fumoto Drain Plug, DIY Stage 1 Tune, In-Tank Lift Pump


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 Post subject: Re: 150k Miles: time for the HeadGasket and parts?
PostPosted: Thu Feb 01, 2018 6:59 am 
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APC9199 wrote:
One big tip that helps me tremendously is to buy organizing bins from home depot/lowes etc and use them to label and organize every piece of hardware that comes out of the engine. Nothing feels worse than not remembering where a screw goes, or even worse, having a few extra when you get done!


I use Ziploc freezer bags and a Sharpie. I write a description and sometimes notes on the bag. If the part is too large for a gallon size bag, I attach a piece of blue painters tape and write on it.

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2006 CRD Sport
GDE FT ECO tune, GDE TCM ECO tune, ARP studs, HDS-001 203F T-Stat, 3.7L nylon fan & Hayden 2905 clutch, Carter P76148M in-tank pump, Racor 245R122 filter head & 2 micron R25S fuel filter, Provent 200, Samcos, Fumoto F-102, Litens 920834A de-coupler, PML rear diff cover, OEM trans pan with welded in bung, JBA UCAs, full skids.


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 Post subject: Re: 150k Miles: time for the HeadGasket and parts?
PostPosted: Thu Feb 01, 2018 10:33 am 
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I thought it was illegal to work on your own car in Kalifornia... :SOMBRERO:

PS -Looking down the barrel of that issue myself

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#2 2006 Metallic Green Limited; currently DOA


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 Post subject: Re: 150k Miles: time for the HeadGasket and parts?
PostPosted: Thu Feb 01, 2018 1:38 pm 
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Quote:
How deep do I have to go from there to the following:
* Camshaft replacement kit: Rocker Arm, Lifter Assemblies, Camshafts, seals, and gaskets (is IDParts the best vendor for this work, or would another vendor or type be just as good if not better? https://www.idparts.com/camshaft-replac ... -4123.html)
* Piston Rings?

You wont really know how bad your rocker arms are until you remove the intake manifold. Once you've gone that far just plan on doing the whole timing belt job too.

Camshafts- inspect them while the intake manifold is off. If all your rockers are in good shape, your cams will be too.

Piston rings- not unless you really want to pull the engine and tear it down to just the bare block. The design of the rings has changed and originals are very hard to find, so plan on getting new pistons to match the new rings. And while you are in there, crank bearings and rod bearings.

Seriously, if you want to remove the intake manifold for the purpose of installing ARP studs, then by all means do so. Inspect all the other parts and replace if necessary.

At 160K miles when I replaced my cracked head, my rockers were still in good shape.

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Bought my '05 CRD on June 2nd '07, used with 29,000 miles.
intake elbow and EGR delete. 7 volt Etecno glow plugs
Yeti stage 2 ECU tune. Straight pipe exhaust. DIY intercooler hoses
Provent and modified factory 180F thermostat
Replaced cylinder head (cracked) at 160,000 miles + ARP studs
2.5 inch lift, 255-75-17 tires.
Still love it.


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 Post subject: Re: 150k Miles: time for the HeadGasket and parts?
PostPosted: Thu Feb 01, 2018 2:14 pm 
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Valve failures have been showing (preliminary results) as cyclical failure of the alloy stem of the exhaust valve. They just get to a point and have had enough. That point seems to be somewhere between 150 and north of 200k miles, but since we don't have an hour meter on the engine it is more difficult to pin down. More idling or low speed miles could mean a lower total mileage is the danger point, where lots of highway miles could mean higher total mileage before failure.

But this does NOT seem to be related to temperature or physical wear (the breaks have all been in an area of the stem that never touches anything) and it also has not shown in the results to be a flawed alloy or a fracture-over-time. The stem metal just gets to a point of cycles where it has had enough and *pop* it is done.

There is no point in doing the pistons or rings (wear will be VERY light if any at all) and it will require removal and teardown of the entire block. You also shouldn't need to replace the camshafts. Rockers are a question at this point, if the bearings are showing wear (slop / collapsed) then you will have plenty of time to order replacements while waiting on the head to be checked.

Do not have the bottom of the head milled - there isn't enough material there to do this. It likely is flat anyway unless you badly overheated your engine at some point, which would mean you have had / are having a head gasket leak. You want the 2-hole head gasket, and you *will* need a timing belt, better to do the full kit so you know it is done for another 100k. On reinstallation, spray all 4 surfaces with Copper Kote (both sides of the gasket and the block and head) for an impressive seal.

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 Post subject: Re: 150k Miles: time for the HeadGasket and parts?
PostPosted: Thu Feb 01, 2018 3:12 pm 
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95Z28A4 wrote:
APC9199 wrote:
One big tip that helps me tremendously is to buy organizing bins from home depot/lowes etc and use them to label and organize every piece of hardware that comes out of the engine. Nothing feels worse than not remembering where a screw goes, or even worse, having a few extra when you get done!


I use Ziploc freezer bags and a Sharpie. I write a description and sometimes notes on the bag. If the part is too large for a gallon size bag, I attach a piece of blue painters tape and write on it.

Both good ideas.

Another good habit to start, is anytime you work on something new to you, take pictures. Plenty of them. It helps both for re-assembly, and for identifying things that may be wrong coming apart, which is indicator of sub-competent work done in the past.

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 Post subject: Re: 150k Miles: time for the HeadGasket and parts?
PostPosted: Thu Feb 01, 2018 3:20 pm 
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GordnadoCRD wrote:
95Z28A4 wrote:
APC9199 wrote:
One big tip that helps me tremendously is to buy organizing bins from home depot/lowes etc and use them to label and organize every piece of hardware that comes out of the engine. Nothing feels worse than not remembering where a screw goes, or even worse, having a few extra when you get done!


I use Ziploc freezer bags and a Sharpie. I write a description and sometimes notes on the bag. If the part is too large for a gallon size bag, I attach a piece of blue painters tape and write on it.

Both good ideas.

Another good habit to start, is anytime you work on something new to you, take pictures. Plenty of them. It helps both for re-assembly, and for identifying things that may be wrong coming apart, which is indicator of sub-competent work done in the past.

Also, use a label maker to tag the injectors and harness connectors for everything you have to unplug.

_________________
Bought my '05 CRD on June 2nd '07, used with 29,000 miles.
intake elbow and EGR delete. 7 volt Etecno glow plugs
Yeti stage 2 ECU tune. Straight pipe exhaust. DIY intercooler hoses
Provent and modified factory 180F thermostat
Replaced cylinder head (cracked) at 160,000 miles + ARP studs
2.5 inch lift, 255-75-17 tires.
Still love it.


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 Post subject: Re: 150k Miles: time for the HeadGasket and parts?
PostPosted: Thu Feb 01, 2018 3:41 pm 
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Taking pictures or videos of each item where possible before disassembly with your smartphone will also give you a great record of how things were put together when you start back together. Baggies and labeling is also good advice. Putting the blue painters tape on connectors and wires and marking both corresponding items with a unique identifying number or letter is a big help.

X2 on replacing ALL the exhaust valves! Great advice!
Replacing all the exhaust valves is very cheap insurance as opposed to having a catastrophic engine failure because of a broke valve that that will cost you a head and highly likely a piston and piston liner and in rare cases an engine block!
If you have the head off or are in deep enough to replace the head gasket it is well worth the extra effort and expense...
To the best of my knowledge no one has reported of any intake valve stems breaking or snapping off so far.

As to machining the head, it certainly can be performed by a competent machine shop within limits and specifications!
Several on LOST have reported taking a few thousands off their head!
This mostly happens only when dealing with an extremely overheated head with a blown head gasket condition!
If you machine it, normally you would go back together with the next thicker head gasket (+.0.10mm) to compensate for the milling process.
If your engine came with the 2 notch/ hole thickness gasket, this may present a problem depending on the *final thickness of the head after milling.
The head gaskets are available in only three different thickness configurations!

Factory Head Gasket Thicknesses:
1.32 mm ± 0.08, 0 notch/hole
1.42 mm ± 0.08, 1 notch/hole
1.52 mm ± 0.08, 2 notch/hole

*The minimum overall cylinder head thickness is 89.95mm (3.541 in.).
If machining requires going below this minimum value to flatten the head, then it will have to be replaced. :roll:

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05 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited :JEEPIN:
Blk Brush Guard/Hella's/LED's
Ironman Springs/Bilstein's
Yeti Stg4 MaxTune
Weeks ElbowKit/BatteryTray
NO FCV/EGR
Samcos/ProVent
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V6 Airbox
GM11 blade fan/NAPA HDclutch
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98 Dodge Cummins, 5"exh. Viair, Huge K&N


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 Post subject: Re: 150k Miles: time for the HeadGasket and parts?
PostPosted: Thu Feb 01, 2018 4:27 pm 
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Hey exclamation point... I mean W!W!d!i!e!s!e!l!...

When the manufacturer themselves say that the head CANNOT be machined, exactly which "limits and specifications!" can they machine it under?
The people that have machined their heads have made them thinner against what VM says is possible, which is nothing at all.

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 Post subject: Re: 150k Miles: time for the HeadGasket and parts?
PostPosted: Thu Feb 01, 2018 6:14 pm 
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geordi wrote:
Hey exclamation point... I mean W!W!d!i!e!s!e!l!...
When the manufacturer themselves say that the head CANNOT be machined, exactly which "limits and specifications!" can they machine it under?
The people that have machined their heads have made them thinner against what VM says is possible, which is nothing at all.

Why the dig at me personally?
The Head specifications I quoted are listed in the FSM in section 9 under "2.8L COMMON RAIL DIESEL ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS".
Nowhere in writing have I ever read that the head cannot be machined.
VM gives the specifications for a reason just like all head manufactures do.
Machine shops know how to adhere to the given specifications and limits provided by a manufacturer.
If the head cannot be machined as you have stated, than VM should have specified such in their inspection instructions which is not there.
INSPECTION wrote:
Use a straightedge and feeler gauge to check the flatness of the engine cylinder head and block mating surfaces.
The minimum cylinder head thickness is 89.95mm (3.541 in.).

If you have this information in writing, please kindly share it with the rest of us or direct us to where it can be viewed and I will certainly stand corrected.
But I have certainly never been disrespectful to you that I know of.

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05 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited :JEEPIN:
Blk Brush Guard/Hella's/LED's
Ironman Springs/Bilstein's
Yeti Stg4 MaxTune
Weeks ElbowKit/BatteryTray
NO FCV/EGR
Samcos/ProVent
SunCoast/Transgo
Carter Intank-pump
2mic.Sec.Fuel Filter
Flowmaster/NOcat
V6 Airbox
GM11 blade fan/NAPA HDclutch
Ironrock Trilink
98 Dodge Cummins, 5"exh. Viair, Huge K&N


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 Post subject: Re: 150k Miles: time for the HeadGasket and parts?
PostPosted: Thu Feb 01, 2018 9:23 pm 
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Two things.

1. This has been discussed before and the consensus was that 0.004” was the most you could machine off the head surface. The limitation being the valve seats. The seats are almost flush with the deck surface. You cannot machine the valve seats.

2. How much you machine off the head has no bearing on head gasket thickness.
Unlike most gasoline engines, this Diesel engine head does not have a combination chamber. The combustion chamber is actually in the top of the piston. Therefore, machining the head does not change the size of the combustion chamber.
Head gasket thickness is actually determined by liner protrusion and piston height.

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Bought my '05 CRD on June 2nd '07, used with 29,000 miles.
intake elbow and EGR delete. 7 volt Etecno glow plugs
Yeti stage 2 ECU tune. Straight pipe exhaust. DIY intercooler hoses
Provent and modified factory 180F thermostat
Replaced cylinder head (cracked) at 160,000 miles + ARP studs
2.5 inch lift, 255-75-17 tires.
Still love it.


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 Post subject: Re: 150k Miles: time for the HeadGasket and parts?
PostPosted: Fri Feb 02, 2018 11:57 am 
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WWDiesel wrote:
If you have this information in writing, please kindly share it with the rest of us or direct us to where it can be viewed and I will certainly stand corrected.
There's one small mention of it at the beginning of the Cylinder Head section in the KJ service manual:

The cylinder head itself is not resurfacable. (page 1437 or 9-192)

But then later they give you the minimum thickness, so I'm not sure what's up with that.
I haven't read any of VM's documentation so I haven't seen whether it's mentioned in there.


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 Post subject: Re: 150k Miles: time for the HeadGasket and parts?
PostPosted: Fri Feb 02, 2018 2:34 pm 
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joe_ wrote:
WWDiesel wrote:
If you have this information in writing, please kindly share it with the rest of us or direct us to where it can be viewed and I will certainly stand corrected.
There's one small mention of it at the beginning of the Cylinder Head section in the KJ service manual:
The cylinder head itself is not resurfacable. (page 1437 or 9-192)
But then later they give you the minimum thickness, so I'm not sure what's up with that.
I haven't read any of VM's documentation so I haven't seen whether it's mentioned in there.

Thanks, I had not seen that. And I agree, it is somewhat contradictory being they give you minimum thickness which normally is for machining purposes. :roll: :?
I worked in an automotive machine and speed shop for several years, I have never seen or heard of an automotive head that cannot be machined a few thousands if necessary.
But there could be exceptions and if that is the case, I stand corrected.

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05 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited :JEEPIN:
Blk Brush Guard/Hella's/LED's
Ironman Springs/Bilstein's
Yeti Stg4 MaxTune
Weeks ElbowKit/BatteryTray
NO FCV/EGR
Samcos/ProVent
SunCoast/Transgo
Carter Intank-pump
2mic.Sec.Fuel Filter
Flowmaster/NOcat
V6 Airbox
GM11 blade fan/NAPA HDclutch
Ironrock Trilink
98 Dodge Cummins, 5"exh. Viair, Huge K&N


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 Post subject: Re: 150k Miles: time for the HeadGasket and parts?
PostPosted: Fri Feb 02, 2018 5:15 pm 
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I love you guys.

Thank you for sharing your knowledge, and for helping me troubleshoot this.

I have done quite a bit of work on this Jeep, both through repair shops/services, and also by myself here at home. Should I replace the timing belt, water pump, etc again, as it's only been about 35,000 miles since they were replaced last, when I bought the vehicle in 2012. Yep, only 35,000 miles in 5-ish years.

What I am seeing/hearing that have me worried, or thinking that there might be a small head-gasket leak, is the very small coolant loss and white vapor/smoke (only in morning at start up after sitting all night). Doesn't smell like unburned fuel. There is also some clattering sounds inside the engine that have me concerned, but I might also be over-analyzing or hypersensitive, and hearing something that is normal, and assuming it is something wrong.

Here is a Youtube Video of the walkthrough sounds of my vehicle =

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FAqp28oc3hY -

take a look and listen and let me know what you think, and after the video I cleaned the Provent 200 gunk out, since it hasn't been cleaned for 2+ years. So the Provent doesn't look all nasty anymore, and the turbo is more responsive now.

Below is what I have done / had someone else done:
... (sorry if it's TMI = I just copy and pasted a lot from my files):
STARTING DECEMBER 2012 @ 115,000Miles:
* purchase of vehicle cost + DMV taxes & fees: $10,850 + $1,1,245 = $12,095
* new Timing-Belt kit with Water-Pump kit: $640.00 + labor $591.00 = $1,231.00 (through 4X4AndMore Jeep autoshop)
* new Intercooler, Thermostat, & Thermostat Housing Assembly: $625.00 + fluid & labor $172.00 = $797.00 (through 4X4AndMore Jeep autoshop)
* new Glow Plugs & Controller Unit: $180.00 + labor 296.00 = $476.00 (through 4X4AndMore Jeep autoshop)
* new Fuel Filter: $57.00 + labor $74.00 = $131.00 (through 4X4AndMore Jeep autoshop)
* new Oil filter & Oil change: fluid $42.00 + labor $25.00 = $77.00 (through 4X4AndMore Jeep autoshop)
* Front & Rear Differential fluids changed: fluid $40.00 + labor $221.00 = $261.00 (through 4X4AndMore Jeep autoshop)
* Transmission fluid changed and Transmission filters (guess there were 2 different filters) replaced: $60.00 + fluid $55.00 + labor $100.00 =$215.00 (through 4X4AndMore Jeep autoshop)
* Grease/Lube the sway-bars: labor $25.00 (through 4X4AndMore Jeep autoshop)
* (5) new Tires and Stems, alignment, rotation, & disposal fee: $770.00 (Costco)
* new Engine Mount installed: $52.00 + labor $174.00 = $226.00 (through 4X4AndMore Jeep autoshop)
* new alternator: $350.00 + labor $100.00 = $450.00 (through 4X4AndMore Jeep autoshop)
* new air filter: $48.00
* new battery: $101.00
Subtotal: $16,952.00 as of 12/31/2013

* roof carrier basket: $100.00
* diesel gas cans & roof mount: $200.00
* Full Brush Guard + custom fabrication & hardware: $740.00
* Hi-Lift Jack & Towstrap: $275.00
* Rear Shocks (Bilstein 4600s): $135.00
* Rear OME Coils: $175.00
Subtotal: $18,877.00 as of 2/23/2014

* P3 Electronic Brake Controller $160.00 + Labor $265.00: $425.00 (Local RV repair shop did the install)
* TSB TCM Update for CCM Temp Calibration: $120.00 (had the Stealership do this)
* Inspections and tire rotations/balancing: $50.00 (Costco)
* 7x Oil Redline Synth 0W40 (MS-10725) $85.00 + Oil Filter Change $15.00: $100.00
* 2x Front OME Coils (927s) $170.00 + 2x Front ARB 90009 Struts/Shocks $340.00 + 2x Raybestos Pro HD Front Upper Control Arms $120.00 + 2x Raybestos Pro HD Lower Control Arms $280.00 + 1x Raybestos Rear Control Arm $110.00, 1x Rack & Pinion $395.00 + 2x Steering Rack bushings $27.00 + Power Steering Hose $10.00 + 2x MOOG Front Lower Ball Joints $175.00 + labor $1168.00: $2795.00 (through 4X4AndMore Jeep autoshop)
Subtotal: $22,067.00 as of 4/29/2014

* Installed Weeks Kit 1 & new MAP Sensor (October 2014) = $318.00
* Installed the GDE Eco Tune & Scan Flash Programmer (December 2014) = $300.00
* Installed AC Fan (October 2015) = $75.00
* Installed Week's Kit 2 & new CCV Puck & hoses (October 2015) = $120.00
* Installed the Provent 200 & kit (November 2015) = $220.00
* Installed Custom Fabricated Rock Rails + paint (November 2015) = $595.00
* Installed new MAP Sensor, new Solenoid for turbo vacuum line and new filter (early December 2015) = $72.00
* Installed new 11-Bladed Fan, HD-Fan-Clutch, HDS M-001 Thermostat assembly, and Fan-shroud-mod (late December 2015) = $680.00
* Installed all new Bearing/Hub (Timken) units, Rotors, and Brake pads on the front (August 2016) = $380.00
* Installed cleaned and tested injectors & new Sasquatch Turbo (March 2017) = $360.00 + $1200.00
* Installed new Litens Alternator Decoupling Pulley, new Idler Pulley, new Tensioner Pulley, new Serpentine Belt, and a couple new GlowPlugs (#1 & #2) for good measure (January 2018) = $320.00
* Installed new Rear Lower Control Arms (February 2018) = $140.00
$26,487.00 - too much money at this point?

_________________
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited: GDE Eco Tune, Weeks Kit 1&2, Provent 200, P3 Electronic Brake Controller, Custom Rock Rails, New Suspension and Arms (OME, ARB, Raybestos, Bilsteins, etc.), 11-Bladed Fan, HD-Fan-Clutch, HDS M-001 Thermostat assembly, Fan-shroud-mod, Sasquatch Turbo, Tires (BFG AT TA KO2 LT245/70R16 - load D).


Last edited by Infinite_Karma on Wed Feb 28, 2018 2:39 am, edited 2 times in total.

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 Post subject: Re: 150k Miles: time for the HeadGasket and parts?
PostPosted: Fri Feb 02, 2018 8:26 pm 
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Posts: 393
Location: Southeast Michigan
Infinite_Karma wrote:
Should I replace the timing belt, water pump, etc again, as it's only been about 35,000 miles since they were replaced last, when I bought the vehicle in 2012. Yep, only 35,000 miles in 5-ish years.
At least on the couple different engines I've been familiar with, I've generally heard timing belts should be replaced after 6-7 years regardless of mileage. You're getting close to that. I'd put on a new one - cheaper and easier than doing it later or replacing all the rockers should the belt break.


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 Post subject: Re: 150k Miles: time for the HeadGasket and parts?
PostPosted: Fri Feb 02, 2018 9:31 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 23, 2013 8:57 pm
Posts: 2048
Location: Boise, Idaho
I've had over a dozen of these heads resurfaced. The machine shop I use highly recommends the practice for long term factory like sealing expectations. They also do the work for cheap, so I don't suspect they are fleecing me. I don't have any experience with the spray gasket stuff, but the race crowd I know stays away from it, I suspect just out of tradition/not knowing about it. I can't find any data that says it will work for hundreds of thousands of miles, but nothing that says it won't either. I can say that my engine has held up with being machined flat, and with no spray at several 4,000rpm runs and 20k miles. If the spray saves some scraping that's handy, but I'm just nervous to change my tactics.
Like WW said, I go up one size on gaskets sometimes, and other times I've measured the protrusion and matched it. I've found that the factory often put two hole gaskets on engines that measure to fit a no hole :juggle:

_________________
05 CRD: H.D.S2 stat, Ironrock trilink,OME lift, JBA UCA's, Moabs&245/75 Duratracs, GDE tunes ,Truetrac front,FFD fan,ARP's, new head,rockers, cams,sasquatch battery tray & grid heater, Suncoast TC, welded EGR port & trans drain, muffler delete,
Mech fan, VH & AC delete,tensioner relocated
-CRD's being restored


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 Post subject: Re: 150k Miles: time for the HeadGasket and parts?
PostPosted: Fri Feb 02, 2018 11:57 pm 
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Location: Oregon Coast Dairy Country. Land of stumps, dumps, and "Liquid Pumps"
Infinite_Karma

As far as sights and sounds, I did not see or hear anything abnormal for one of these engines.

- Buy quality hard parts if you need them.
- Don't waste money on the absolute most expensive maintenance stuff you can find, unless it's what you want to do. Just keep up the maintenance B schedule, front to back.
- Use any DIESEL RATED engine oil that meets this engine requirements or better. All proper lubricants and fluids everywhere else too.

Keep paying attention, Address any sudden changes, but maybe don't worry as much.?

:JEEPIN: Drive it. Enjoy it. :JEEPIN:

_________________
'06 Lbrty Sprt CRD 150K

Sasquatch
DSS Turbo
CAT-elimntr
Weeks Stg1&2 EGRfix
PV-200
BLING
vent gauges

IDParts
head
cams
rockers
Timing set
ARP studs
eTn1 GX2123 5v GPs

YETI Custom Tune
Flowmaster 8325508
Carter P76611M
GM 12611872
Hayden 2986
GM 15976889
PATC Custom Billet
2010 Ram Hemi Trans
Sonnax 44957
Transgo kit
Cooper 51770


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