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 Post subject: No Boost
PostPosted: Thu Feb 01, 2018 11:17 pm 
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Location: Winchester, VA
Well, here it is. I've been trying to diagnose the dreaded "low boost/no power/lotsa smoke" problem for about three weeks now and, while not totally at an impasse, I thought it was time to throw it out there for comments.

The car is an '06 KJ with 164,000 miles. Timing belt done at 140K, NEW Sasquatch turbo installed at 158K after the original one shelled itself on the highway. New boost hoses installed with turbo change.

Car sounds great at idle. Very smooth. When the rpm goes through about 1500 the rattling starts and I'm putting out a smoke screen. Under load on the road it's even worse: hammering noise and rolling coal.

Here is what has been done so far:

New MAP sensor installed (old one was only a year old and didn't look bad)--no change
New vacuum modulator installed--no change
Bypassed vacuum solenoid--no change
Checked vacuum in all lines--ok
Vacuum reservoir checks ok
Turbo actuator moves freely up and down at least 1/2 inch
EGR pipe from exhaust manifold blocked with a plate at the egr
FCV butterfly valve removed
Pressure tested from turbo to intake--ok

Codes set: P0401 (EGR deleted)
P0299 underboost

Here is some scantool data:
MAF idle: 13.6-15.6 g/s @2K rpm: 37.5-38.0

Fuel Pressure @idle 4843 psi @2k rpm: 9570 psi

MAP @idle: 13.9 psi @2K rpm 14.9 psi @3K rpm 17.2 psi

Boost: Desired Actual
@idle 16.1 psi 14.3
@2K rpm 27.6 23.2 (level ground)
@2K uphill 33.4 23.2 (up a small hill)
@2.5K 33.4 21.8 (up a very steep hill, pedal floored)

Measured at a tee between the vac modulator and the turbo actuator. (I had the gauge taped to the windscreen :wink: )

Vacuum from pump is good and steady at 28 in Hg.

Right now I'm trying to get a block off plate going at the union of the exhaust manifold and the egr pipe, since my other block off plate at the other end of this pipe (where it goes into the egr) was leaking some. Having a devil of a time getting the v-band clamp back on... I am noticing some smoke swirling around in the engine compartment when I stomp the accelerator, so maybe that's the whole issue (?). Trying to completely rule out exhaust leak.

So, I'm down to:
1. Exhaust leak
2. Clogged Cat
3. Busted rocker arms
4. Bad injectors
5. Bad turbo (BTW I checked the spindle for play, none present)
6. ???

It seems to me that no boost is being produced at all, so that would point to exhaust leak not allowing the turbo to spin up, or stuck vanes.

Any help at all would be greatly appreciated....the next tool I throw might hurt someone!

_________________
2006 Liberty CRD, currently loaned out to my college girl :-(
2001 VW Jetta TDI, 265,000 miles and counting...
2004 VW Jetta TDI
2009 VW Jetta TDI (totaled)
2006 Ford F-350 diesel


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 Post subject: Re: No Boost
PostPosted: Thu Feb 01, 2018 11:41 pm 
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five7driver wrote:
Well, here it is. I've been trying to diagnose the dreaded "low boost/no power/lotsa smoke" problem for about three weeks now and, while not totally at an impasse, I thought it was time to throw it out there for comments.

The car is an '06 KJ with 164,000 miles. Timing belt done at 140K, NEW Sasquatch turbo installed at 158K after the original one shelled itself on the highway. New boost hoses installed with turbo change.

Car sounds great at idle. Very smooth. When the rpm goes through about 1500 the rattling starts and I'm putting out a smoke screen. Under load on the road it's even worse: hammering noise and rolling coal.

Here is what has been done so far:

New MAP sensor installed (old one was only a year old and didn't look bad)--no change
New vacuum modulator installed--no change
Bypassed vacuum solenoid--no change
Checked vacuum in all lines--ok
Vacuum reservoir checks ok
Turbo actuator moves freely up and down at least 1/2 inch
EGR pipe from exhaust manifold blocked with a plate at the egr
FCV butterfly valve removed
Pressure tested from turbo to intake--ok

Codes set: P0401 (EGR deleted)
P0299 underboost

Here is some scantool data:
MAF idle: 13.6-15.6 g/s @2K rpm: 37.5-38.0

Fuel Pressure @idle 4843 psi @2k rpm: 9570 psi

MAP @idle: 13.9 psi @2K rpm 14.9 psi @3K rpm 17.2 psi

Boost: Desired Actual
@idle 16.1 psi 14.3
@2K rpm 27.6 23.2 (level ground)
@2K uphill 33.4 23.2 (up a small hill)
@2.5K 33.4 21.8 (up a very steep hill, pedal floored)

Measured at a tee between the vac modulator and the turbo actuator. (I had the gauge taped to the windscreen :wink: )

Vacuum from pump is good and steady at 28 in Hg.

Right now I'm trying to get a block off plate going at the union of the exhaust manifold and the egr pipe, since my other block off plate at the other end of this pipe (where it goes into the egr) was leaking some. Having a devil of a time getting the v-band clamp back on... I am noticing some smoke swirling around in the engine compartment when I stomp the accelerator, so maybe that's the whole issue (?). Trying to completely rule out exhaust leak.

So, I'm down to:
1. Exhaust leak
2. Clogged Cat
3. Busted rocker arms
4. Bad injectors
5. Bad turbo (BTW I checked the spindle for play, none present)
6. ???

It seems to me that no boost is being produced at all, so that would point to exhaust leak not allowing the turbo to spin up, or stuck vanes.

Any help at all would be greatly appreciated....the next tool I throw might hurt someone!


How were you getting the desired boost? Those numbers looks right for absolute pressure(these jeeps want around 19 psi of boost). Looks like you are making around 9.

_________________
2006 CRD - GTB2056 turbo by Dieselguy86, Eco Trans Tune, Lift Pump, Week's, HDS Tstat, Racor Filter, ARP's, OME 790's+Top Plate, JBA 2.5", JBA UCA, Moab's+265/75R16, ARB Bar

2014 F150 EcoBoost - Gearhead Tuned, AFE CAC, Bilstein 5100's, Airlift Bags, Duratracs


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 Post subject: Re: No Boost
PostPosted: Thu Feb 01, 2018 11:45 pm 
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mass-hole wrote:
five7driver wrote:
Well, here it is. I've been trying to diagnose the dreaded "low boost/no power/lotsa smoke" problem for about three weeks now and, while not totally at an impasse, I thought it was time to throw it out there for comments.

The car is an '06 KJ with 164,000 miles. Timing belt done at 140K, NEW Sasquatch turbo installed at 158K after the original one shelled itself on the highway. New boost hoses installed with turbo change.

Car sounds great at idle. Very smooth. When the rpm goes through about 1500 the rattling starts and I'm putting out a smoke screen. Under load on the road it's even worse: hammering noise and rolling coal.

Here is what has been done so far:

New MAP sensor installed (old one was only a year old and didn't look bad)--no change
New vacuum modulator installed--no change
Bypassed vacuum solenoid--no change
Checked vacuum in all lines--ok
Vacuum reservoir checks ok
Turbo actuator moves freely up and down at least 1/2 inch
EGR pipe from exhaust manifold blocked with a plate at the egr
FCV butterfly valve removed
Pressure tested from turbo to intake--ok

Codes set: P0401 (EGR deleted)
P0299 underboost

Here is some scantool data:
MAF idle: 13.6-15.6 g/s @2K rpm: 37.5-38.0

Fuel Pressure @idle 4843 psi @2k rpm: 9570 psi

MAP @idle: 13.9 psi @2K rpm 14.9 psi @3K rpm 17.2 psi

Boost: Desired Actual
@idle 16.1 psi 14.3
@2K rpm 27.6 23.2 (level ground)
@2K uphill 33.4 23.2 (up a small hill)
@2.5K 33.4 21.8 (up a very steep hill, pedal floored)

Measured at a tee between the vac modulator and the turbo actuator. (I had the gauge taped to the windscreen :wink: )

Vacuum from pump is good and steady at 28 in Hg.

Right now I'm trying to get a block off plate going at the union of the exhaust manifold and the egr pipe, since my other block off plate at the other end of this pipe (where it goes into the egr) was leaking some. Having a devil of a time getting the v-band clamp back on... I am noticing some smoke swirling around in the engine compartment when I stomp the accelerator, so maybe that's the whole issue (?). Trying to completely rule out exhaust leak.

So, I'm down to:
1. Exhaust leak
2. Clogged Cat
3. Busted rocker arms
4. Bad injectors
5. Bad turbo (BTW I checked the spindle for play, none present)
6. ???

It seems to me that no boost is being produced at all, so that would point to exhaust leak not allowing the turbo to spin up, or stuck vanes.

Any help at all would be greatly appreciated....the next tool I throw might hurt someone!


How were you getting the desired boost? Those numbers looks right for absolute pressure(these jeeps want around 19 psi of boost). Looks like you are making around 9.


If it’s not the exhaust leaking then I’d be looking at the hot side of the turbo and making sure the vanes are in tact

_________________
2006 CRD - GTB2056 turbo by Dieselguy86, Eco Trans Tune, Lift Pump, Week's, HDS Tstat, Racor Filter, ARP's, OME 790's+Top Plate, JBA 2.5", JBA UCA, Moab's+265/75R16, ARB Bar

2014 F150 EcoBoost - Gearhead Tuned, AFE CAC, Bilstein 5100's, Airlift Bags, Duratracs


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 Post subject: Re: No Boost
PostPosted: Thu Feb 01, 2018 11:46 pm 
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Desired boost is a live data function of my scan tool. Accounting for normal atmospheric pressure of around 14 psi, no boost is being created if MAP reads 14.9 psi at 2000 rpm...

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2006 Liberty CRD, currently loaned out to my college girl :-(
2001 VW Jetta TDI, 265,000 miles and counting...
2004 VW Jetta TDI
2009 VW Jetta TDI (totaled)
2006 Ford F-350 diesel


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 Post subject: Re: No Boost
PostPosted: Thu Feb 01, 2018 11:49 pm 
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Did you check that Mercedes logo sensor on the air filter box???

Sent from my SM-N910W8 using Tapatalk

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Provent @ 43,000 km
SEGR in progress
SAMCO Sport hoses @ 48500 km
Goodyear Wrangler Duratrac LT225/75R16


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 Post subject: Re: No Boost
PostPosted: Fri Feb 02, 2018 12:02 am 
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I cleaned the small "Mercedes" sensor with electronic contact cleaner and checked the connection but did not replace it. I suppose I could in the interest of leaving no stone unturned before I crack open the engine. Could that cause these symptoms and is that a common failure?

Also, with the egr blocked off does this sensor actually do anything?

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2006 Liberty CRD, currently loaned out to my college girl :-(
2001 VW Jetta TDI, 265,000 miles and counting...
2004 VW Jetta TDI
2009 VW Jetta TDI (totaled)
2006 Ford F-350 diesel


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 Post subject: Re: No Boost
PostPosted: Fri Feb 02, 2018 12:58 am 
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Location: Oregon Coast Dairy Country. Land of stumps, dumps, and "Liquid Pumps"
five7driver wrote:
Car sounds great at idle. Very smooth. When the rpm goes through about 1500 the rattling starts and I'm putting out a smoke screen. Under load on the road it's even worse: hammering noise and rolling coal.

Here is what has been done so far:

New MAP sensor installed (old one was only a year old and didn't look bad)--no change
New vacuum modulator installed--no change
Bypassed vacuum solenoid--no change
Checked vacuum in all lines--ok
Vacuum reservoir checks ok
Turbo actuator moves freely up and down at least 1/2 inch
EGR pipe from exhaust manifold blocked with a plate at the egr
FCV butterfly valve removed
Pressure tested from turbo to intake--ok

Codes set: P0401 (EGR deleted)
P0299 underboost

Here is some scantool data:
MAF idle: 13.6-15.6 g/s
@2K rpm: 37.5-38.0

Fuel Pressure @idle 4843 psi
@2k rpm: 9570 psi

MAP @idle: 13.9 psi
@2K rpm 14.9 psi
@3K rpm 17.2 psi

Boost: Desired Actual
@idle 16.1 psi 14.3
@2K rpm 27.6called 23.2measured (level ground)
@2K uphill 33.4called 23.2measured (up a small hill)
@2.5K 33.4called 21.8measured (up a very steep hill, pedal floored)


Measured at a tee between the vac modulator and the turbo actuator. (I had the gauge taped to the windscreen :wink: )

Vacuum from pump is good and steady at 28 in Hg.

Right now I'm trying to get a block off plate going at the union of the exhaust manifold and the egr pipe, since my other block off plate at the other end of this pipe (where it goes into the egr) was leaking some. Having a devil of a time getting the v-band clamp back on... I am noticing some smoke swirling around in the engine compartment when I stomp the accelerator, so maybe that's the whole issue (?). Trying to completely rule out exhaust leak.

So, I'm down to:
1. Exhaust leak
2. Clogged Cat
3. Busted rocker arms
4. Bad injectors
5. Bad turbo (BTW I checked the spindle for play, none present)
6. ???

It seems to me that no boost is being produced at all, so that would point to exhaust leak not allowing the turbo to spin up, or stuck vanes.

Any help at all would be greatly appreciated....the next tool I throw might hurt someone!

I see your turbo is "all in" at under 2000rpm, regardless of accelerator pedal position or engine speed.
It actually loses boost when revved past 2000 to 2500rpm under load.
These numbers bring two things immediately to mind, that can produce them, which are restricted air intake and restricted exhaust.
I'm assuming you checked your air filter, but want to be certain that you actually pulled the filter from the airbox and held it between your eyes and either the sun or a very bright light. If you can't see the light pretty clearly, then it needs changing. People frequently open the air box, and when they see the filter there all pretty and clean, they don't bother to take it out and check the dirty bottom-side. "Clean on top" simply means it's still trying to prevent dirt, dust, feathers, etc from getting past it. Not that it is actually still good. The higher the engine revs, the harder it tries to pull air through the dirty filter, increasing pre-turbo vacuum, causing the turbo to over-spin, increase heat, and decrease boost.

The plugged exhaust part is easier to understand, especially if you still have the catalyst converter in place. The lack of flow neutralizes the turbo's ability to build boost, and enough exhaust back pressure eventually becomes it's own kind of EGR, as it shoves compressed exhaust back through the closing exhaust valves and, if bad enough, all the way back through the opening intake valves.
Even though your Cat, if still in place, is well beyond it's useful emissions service life, it may serve as a way to check if your turbine blades have been wiped. Any turbo bits that have broken loose will be caught by the honeycomb in the converter. If you cut the exhaust forward of the converter, you can check the front for metal or rattly bits clogging up the works, then re-attach it with SS band clamp if for some reason you are attached to the thing.

I think that if you have a pre-turbo exhaust leak bad enough to make those numbers, you would have already identified and fixed it.

The others you're down to, well, if you haven't found it above, they wouldn't hurt to check, also, to do a timing pin insert check, to make sure nothing has gone awry there.

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 Post subject: Re: No Boost
PostPosted: Fri Feb 02, 2018 8:54 am 
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Quote:
When the rpm goes through about 1500 the rattling starts and I'm putting out a smoke screen. Under load on the road it's even worse: hammering noise and rolling coal.

To me, this seems like its the rocker arms.

It could be an exhaust leak. That would be an easy fix.
Just make sure the v-band clamp at the down pipe is tight and all 4 turbo mounting bolts are tight.
But if it were an exhaust leak it would sound like an exhaust leak.
What you describe does not sound like an exhaust leak.

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Bought my '05 CRD on June 2nd '07, used with 29,000 miles.
intake elbow and EGR delete. 5 volt bosch glow plugs
Yeti stage 2 ECU tune. Straight pipe exhaust. DIY intercooler hoses
Provent and modified factory 180F thermostat
Replaced cylinder head (cracked) at 160,000 miles + ARP studs
2.5 inch lift, JBA upper arms, 235-85-16 tires.
Still love it.


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 Post subject: Re: No Boost
PostPosted: Fri Feb 02, 2018 9:24 am 
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Air filter is new, so that's not it.

Will attempt to reattach the blocked egr pipe today, or I'll remove it altogether.

I will definitely cut out the cat before I crack the engine.

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2006 Liberty CRD, currently loaned out to my college girl :-(
2001 VW Jetta TDI, 265,000 miles and counting...
2004 VW Jetta TDI
2009 VW Jetta TDI (totaled)
2006 Ford F-350 diesel


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 Post subject: Re: No Boost
PostPosted: Fri Feb 02, 2018 11:27 am 
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five7driver wrote:
Desired boost is a live data function of my scan tool. Accounting for normal atmospheric pressure of around 14 psi, no boost is being created if MAP reads 14.9 psi at 2000 rpm...


Yeah it says 23 psi so I thought you meant you were making about 9 lbs.

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2006 CRD - GTB2056 turbo by Dieselguy86, Eco Trans Tune, Lift Pump, Week's, HDS Tstat, Racor Filter, ARP's, OME 790's+Top Plate, JBA 2.5", JBA UCA, Moab's+265/75R16, ARB Bar

2014 F150 EcoBoost - Gearhead Tuned, AFE CAC, Bilstein 5100's, Airlift Bags, Duratracs


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 Post subject: Re: No Boost
PostPosted: Fri Feb 02, 2018 12:43 pm 
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Ok, I see what you're saying now. It does seem a little strange that the MAP shows only 14 psi, basically atmospheric pressure, but the boost is showing 23 psi, or 9 psi of boost. These were taken on the same test drive, but on different runs since I can only show two live data graphs at the same time.

Either way, it's a severe underboost condition.

Concerning the possibility of rocker arm failure, would the failure cause an exhaust valve to remain open thereby allowing exhaust to escape back into the intake, or would it be more likely that an intake valve is not opening which leads to a fuel-rich/no combustion condition? Trying to wrap my head around the mechanics of this.

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2006 Liberty CRD, currently loaned out to my college girl :-(
2001 VW Jetta TDI, 265,000 miles and counting...
2004 VW Jetta TDI
2009 VW Jetta TDI (totaled)
2006 Ford F-350 diesel


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 Post subject: Re: No Boost
PostPosted: Fri Feb 02, 2018 12:58 pm 
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five7driver wrote:
Ok, I see what you're saying now. It does seem a little strange that the MAP shows only 14 psi, basically atmospheric pressure, but the boost is showing 23 psi, or 9 psi of boost. These were taken on the same test drive, but on different runs since I can only show two live data graphs at the same time.

Either way, it's a severe underboost condition.

Concerning the possibility of rocker arm failure, would the failure cause an exhaust valve to remain open thereby allowing exhaust to escape back into the intake, or would it be more likely that an intake valve is not opening which leads to a fuel-rich/no combustion condition? Trying to wrap my head around the mechanics of this.


What color is the smoke? If black then I would say its burning but not getting enough air. If white, then it maybe be injecting the fuel and spitting it out. Mine will do this(smoke white) if it takes too long to start on a cold morning.

How hard is it to pop the downpipe off and look to see if the vanes on the turbo are actuating? If they disconnected from the arm and fell into the open position, then it would absolutely kill boost. That might be an "easy" box to check.

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2006 CRD - GTB2056 turbo by Dieselguy86, Eco Trans Tune, Lift Pump, Week's, HDS Tstat, Racor Filter, ARP's, OME 790's+Top Plate, JBA 2.5", JBA UCA, Moab's+265/75R16, ARB Bar

2014 F150 EcoBoost - Gearhead Tuned, AFE CAC, Bilstein 5100's, Airlift Bags, Duratracs


Last edited by mass-hole on Fri Feb 02, 2018 1:06 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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 Post subject: Re: No Boost
PostPosted: Fri Feb 02, 2018 1:04 pm 
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five7driver wrote:

Concerning the possibility of rocker arm failure, would the failure cause an exhaust valve to remain open thereby allowing exhaust to escape back into the intake, or would it be more likely that an intake valve is not opening which leads to a fuel-rich/no combustion condition? Trying to wrap my head around the mechanics of this.

Typically, rocker failure just means that the valves don't fully open whether they be intake or exhaust.
Unless the rocker completely breaks apart, then the valve wont open at all.

If its an intake rocker, not enough air gets into the cylinder and would be fuel-rich.
If its an exhaust rocker, exhaust flow becomes severely restricted, which would effect turbo performance and also limit the amount of air getting into the intake.

Typical rocker failure involves worn out roller bearings which increases valve lash and creates a noticeable valve "clatter" sound.

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Bought my '05 CRD on June 2nd '07, used with 29,000 miles.
intake elbow and EGR delete. 5 volt bosch glow plugs
Yeti stage 2 ECU tune. Straight pipe exhaust. DIY intercooler hoses
Provent and modified factory 180F thermostat
Replaced cylinder head (cracked) at 160,000 miles + ARP studs
2.5 inch lift, JBA upper arms, 235-85-16 tires.
Still love it.


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 Post subject: Re: No Boost
PostPosted: Fri Feb 02, 2018 1:18 pm 
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Smoke is black and very sooty.

As for valve lash clatter, it's no worse than it was before the condition started. Its a steady, sewing-machine sounding, tap-tap-tap, but no more than that.

I will try to get the downpipe off and have a look.

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2006 Liberty CRD, currently loaned out to my college girl :-(
2001 VW Jetta TDI, 265,000 miles and counting...
2004 VW Jetta TDI
2009 VW Jetta TDI (totaled)
2006 Ford F-350 diesel


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 Post subject: Re: No Boost
PostPosted: Fri Feb 02, 2018 1:30 pm 
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But you mentioned this in your original post

Quote:
When the rpm goes through about 1500 the rattling starts and I'm putting out a smoke screen. Under load on the road it's even worse: hammering noise and rolling coal.

What do you make of that?

Also, I don't think you will be able to see much of the vanes inside the turbo. But you can observe the movement of the vacuum actuator and the little arm it links to.
But it is worth the look.

_________________
Bought my '05 CRD on June 2nd '07, used with 29,000 miles.
intake elbow and EGR delete. 5 volt bosch glow plugs
Yeti stage 2 ECU tune. Straight pipe exhaust. DIY intercooler hoses
Provent and modified factory 180F thermostat
Replaced cylinder head (cracked) at 160,000 miles + ARP studs
2.5 inch lift, JBA upper arms, 235-85-16 tires.
Still love it.


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 Post subject: Re: No Boost
PostPosted: Fri Feb 02, 2018 1:35 pm 
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Yes, when the accelerator is pressed and the rpm goes through about 1500 or so then the rattling noise begins. I was referring to idle with the sewing-machine example.

The actuator rod moves as it should. I had not thought that it may not be connected to anything inside. Is that even mechanically possible?

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2006 Liberty CRD, currently loaned out to my college girl :-(
2001 VW Jetta TDI, 265,000 miles and counting...
2004 VW Jetta TDI
2009 VW Jetta TDI (totaled)
2006 Ford F-350 diesel


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 Post subject: Re: No Boost
PostPosted: Fri Feb 02, 2018 1:41 pm 
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five7driver wrote:

The actuator rod moves as it should. I had not thought that it may not be connected to anything inside. Is that even mechanically possible?

The rod connects to a small lever on the turbine (exhaust) side of the turbo.
That little lever moves the variable vanes inside the turbine housing.
The vanes help direct exhaust flow through the turbine.
This is how boost is controlled.

_________________
Bought my '05 CRD on June 2nd '07, used with 29,000 miles.
intake elbow and EGR delete. 5 volt bosch glow plugs
Yeti stage 2 ECU tune. Straight pipe exhaust. DIY intercooler hoses
Provent and modified factory 180F thermostat
Replaced cylinder head (cracked) at 160,000 miles + ARP studs
2.5 inch lift, JBA upper arms, 235-85-16 tires.
Still love it.


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 Post subject: Re: No Boost
PostPosted: Fri Feb 02, 2018 2:58 pm 
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It must be a bad month for boost! I was accelerating up a steep hill yesterday when I suddenly lost a lot of power. I was able to drive on home, but barely capable of pulling the hill to my house at 40 mph, where it usually can go 65 easily. This loss of power occured after going 25 mph up a slight grade for 5 miles. I accelerated up to 65 quickly on a 6% grade, then lost power, dropping to 40.

2006 Sport model, 109,000 miles, (4,800 since I bought it). 4,900 miles since the last oil change with fuel filter and MAP sensor replacement and 5v glow plugs with ECU flash. Air Filter Minder is showing no restriction. Due for an oil change in 100 miles.

Other symptoms: No noticeable black smoke, normal engine noises. Smoke smell coming through heater into cabin when idling (has been doing that for a while). No CEL or codes.

I just purchased the weeks kit (stage 1 and 2), elephant hose, and Provent last week, but not installed yet. That was supposed to happen tomorrow, but I want to cure the lack of power before putting mods on, unless the problem is the elephant hose or EGR. I'm a newby to Liberty CRD's. What checks should I start with?

"Ruby" 2006 CRD Sport
SAMCO hoses, timing belts, and turbo replaced at 80,000 miles
5v glow plugs
JBA UCA
OME 1.5" lift
Cooper APC 245/70/R16

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Meach 4x4
2006 Liberty CRD, JBA UCA, Euro TC, Stage 2 Weeks Kit, Provent 200, 1.5" OME Lift, Cooper 245/70/16 ATCs...
2005 LJ Rubicon, 5.13:1, Metalcloaks, 27/12.50/17 MTR Kevlars, ARBs, Rock Crawlers, ORO taillights, Warn 9.5 tc, Yaesu FT8100, Uniden Pro 520xl, PSC Gear, Factory 10 CroMol, RCVs, Rampage Top,...


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 Post subject: Re: No Boost
PostPosted: Fri Feb 02, 2018 5:31 pm 
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Location: Utah
five7driver wrote:
Yes, when the accelerator is pressed and the rpm goes through about 1500 or so then the rattling noise begins. I was referring to idle with the sewing-machine example.

The actuator rod moves as it should. I had not thought that it may not be connected to anything inside. Is that even mechanically possible?


It would be very odd for that to happen, but if the ring did get dislodged for some reason then it wouldnt take much movement to jump off the arms on the vanes or off the actuator arm.

I tore down a turbo here which should give you an idea of how the vanes are actuated: http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=86817

If you open and close the vanes fully you should hear them clicking.

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2006 CRD - GTB2056 turbo by Dieselguy86, Eco Trans Tune, Lift Pump, Week's, HDS Tstat, Racor Filter, ARP's, OME 790's+Top Plate, JBA 2.5", JBA UCA, Moab's+265/75R16, ARB Bar

2014 F150 EcoBoost - Gearhead Tuned, AFE CAC, Bilstein 5100's, Airlift Bags, Duratracs


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 Post subject: Re: No Boost
PostPosted: Fri Feb 02, 2018 11:24 pm 
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Location: Oregon Coast Dairy Country. Land of stumps, dumps, and "Liquid Pumps"
flash7210 wrote:
five7driver wrote:

Concerning the possibility of rocker arm failure, would the failure cause an exhaust valve to remain open thereby allowing exhaust to escape back into the intake, or would it be more likely that an intake valve is not opening which leads to a fuel-rich/no combustion condition? Trying to wrap my head around the mechanics of this.

Typically, rocker failure just means that the valves don't fully open whether they be intake or exhaust.
Unless the rocker completely breaks apart, then the valve wont open at all.

If its an intake rocker, not enough air gets into the cylinder and would be fuel-rich.
If its an exhaust rocker, exhaust flow becomes severely restricted, which would effect turbo performance and also limit the amount of air getting into the intake.

Typical rocker failure involves worn out roller bearings which increases valve lash and creates a noticeable valve "clatter" sound.

I agree with this, except that neither Hydraulic valve adjusters nor roller followers tend to fail with all valves and all cylinders at once. When one happens you will have a distinct thumping at idle, especially if you pull the intake manifold CAC hose. The un-even-ness can be heard whether it's intake or exhaust, although intake is louder.

That it's affecting all cylinders the same, suggests more along the lines of a cam jumping a tooth, or (hopefully not) slipping within the pulley. That is why I suggest ruling that out through a timing pin check. It's quick and easy enough to do.

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'06 Lbrty Sprt CRD 150K

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IDParts
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